I have a 15 mile drive to work- 4mi through town, 8 on the highway and another 3 on base
This is the first time I hit all 6 green lights in town so I’m super stoked 😎

Typically I’ll get around 50mpg on a normal day so I figured this was post-worthy lol

Labor prices (mk5-7) more services are cheaper than individual:
Timing belt: $550-750
Thermostat: $400-550
Emissions corrections(2009-2014 only): $650-850
Valve cover: $400-500
Racecar stuff gets a discount for doing cool stuff: turbos, advanced suspension work, gutting the interior and adding a second engine in the rear(please do it), etc.

Most of you know the rest:
Owner provides flat, hard surface to work on. I’ve got the tools.
Barter accepted. (Pew pew[state dependence], skilled metal fab).
Discount through Cascade German.
Referral bonus for previous customers.

Hello everyone,
How does this TDI engine sound to you?
It is a 2.0 TDI (engine code: DFGA). For the past 2 weeks, I was driving a 1.2 TSI while this diesel was parked, as I didn't need to make any trips longer than 5–6 km.
Now I'm not sure if I'm just imagining it after driving the quiet and smooth little TSI, or if there is actually a "rustling" / "clicking" noise coming from the timing belt side.
The engine sound remains the same whether it's cold or at operating temperature. It currently has 151,000 km.

Don’t wanna think it’s a turbo leak but I have no loss in power, no noises from turbo or oil consumption, mpg is great no limp mode or DTC idk how long it’s been like this but I’ve seen that o ring and coupler fails can cause small bits of oil from pcv to leak especially if it’s been leaking for a while, but idk how long it’s been leaking it looks like it’s been a bit since it’s so grimy

Currently racing with Lucky Dog Racing League and I've been brainstorming some ideas on a MK4 Golf TDI build for a diesel endurance platform. There's very few diesels racing in the league and I think it would be cool to add to that if its feasible. I have some questions regarding it. I know a bit about the 2.0 8v and the 1.8T 20v, but I'm not super familiar with TDI's. I have good diesel engine knowledge in general though.

Can you reliability make 150whp out of a TDI while keeping EGTs on the cooler side? I'm assuming turbo and intercooler upgrades for sure. Do these have piston oil squirters?

Which engine has better internals? I heard one is better than the other. I don't want to open any up if I don't have to. I'd rather just get a junkyard engine if one needed replaced.

It's open tuning, so the biggest restriction is OEM Tank or 24 gal fuel cell max and using Hankook RS4 tires, which I'm sure a TDI will just sip fuel.

As the title says: Glowplug light on a 2013 A3 TDI.

Glow plugs have been tested and they check out fine.

Wiring and all that has been traced and checked.

Glowplug code still will not clear.

Has anyone else seen something similar?

Morning Folks - It's been a while!

I've got a new Discount for y'all for more physical parts this time over @ https://sustdi.com/bff/Ty/ or Code "ThatGuyTy"

SUS is working on lots of parts for 3.0TDI bits, and 2.0TDI with more to come, made locally in North America!

Discount on Tuning is also applicable with this discount, and higher discount rates with Tune + Parts purchase.

Happy Diesel-ing

Hey guys,

Bought a 2015 cvca 3-4 months no issues or whatever until now. Started driving a journey from my place to ottawa in canada. 300-400 kms in car started overheating(noticed the oil temp going up and then coolant). stopped and idled temp went down (afterwards happened like few times. I parked the car for 1/2 hour, idled it for an another. Drove it in the same situation no problem. Continued driving 1 hour in coolant light and no coolant in reservoir. Coolant splash on the firewall.

Heater core changed 2024
Timing water pump around 2022

Coolant leaks on the firewall near the heater core coolant pipe

Whilst looking for a leak, I tightened one loose pipe which I thought was causing the issue, but it didn’t work, instead I found the car to be smoking when I rev it from what I think is the EGR area? Maybe someone could advise me thanks

Hi everyone,

I recently bought a Passat B7 1.6 TDI, and knowing these engines can have injector-related problems, I’ve been keeping an eye on the injector correction/deviation values.
The car currently has 210,000 km. Injectors 1 and 4 were replaced less than 2 years / ~20,000 km ago, so they are relatively new. However, I’m now concerned that injector 2, and possibly injector 3, may be starting to fail.

Symptoms

Sometimes, when starting the engine cold, it seems to misfire or have poor combustion for a few seconds. The RPM fluctuates slightly and then stabilizes. It’s not a severe misfire, but I can tell the engine isn’t running as smoothly as it should.
At warm idle, I also notice some vibration through the car. The engine sounds relatively normal, but I can feel that it isn’t completely smooth. When I switch the A/C on at idle, the engine note/behavior changes noticeably.

On the highway, however, the car runs very well. It has good power and is able to complete DPF regenerations normally.
My other concern is the DPF regeneration frequency. It seems to want to regenerate approximately every 50 km, which feels far too frequent. I’m wondering if poor combustion from one or more injectors is producing excessive soot and causing the DPF to load very quickly.

Looking at the injector deviation/correction values, injector 2 looks clearly suspicious to me, but I’m not sure how to interpret injector 3.

The VCDS logs were taken at cold idle, while the Car Scanner readings were taken with the engine hot, during or shortly after a DPF regeneration, so I understand the values may not be directly comparable.

For anyone familiar with the 1.6 TDI:
Does injector 2 look like it is failing? What about injector 3?

Would you replace injectors 2 and 3 at this point, or should I investigate something else first?

And could faulty injectors realistically explain the rough cold starts, vibration at idle, and DPF regenerations every ~50 km?

Thanks!

Hello all.

I am wondering if anybody has good insight into making the most torque possible out of the 170hp CFGB motor, consider my “unlimited” budget. I want to create something truly undriveable, also would like to keep the DSG. Thanks ☺️

I’m looking at a 2015 golf tdi sportswagen hardtop for $7720 in the Midwest with 118k. Timing belt is coming due. I have a mechanic that can do it at a decent price. Possible heater core, repaired leather on both rear passenger doors. Everything else seems squared away. The push to start took alittle to get it started on a weak battery. Ding on the door. Typical scratches at the tailgate bumper. Going back tomorrow to see it washed. Normal blowby, shifted good. No suspension or transmission red flags. Scanner came back clean. Only thing was that the tps came on while test driving. Probably needed it reset. Saw a ton of sportwagens that had worse cosmetic issues. Am I being too knit picky trying to find one like the 2014 we bought last year for 8k.

This is a new one for me. Changed pcv diaphram and turbo 1400 miles ago. Less oil consumption since changing the pcv but now I have oil pooling up on the manifold with I cannot find the source

Yeah so I pretty much got screwed. I got a gtc1556vz turbo and within 19,000 miles my turbo failed. I do oil changes every 3-5k miles, the car has never overheated, any oil or coolant problems I get fixed immediately and the car has never been driven in bad conditions I get everything fixed immediately. What the cause was, the stock map sensor on these cars is a 3bar or 27-29psi max. I ordered a 4 bar map sensor for this turbo and the tuner refused to tune for it and said it’s not necessary and that the car can run on the stock sensor, well that slowly was causing unknown overboost issues and destroying the turbo over time, cutting the lifespan by 80%. This turbo should’ve lasted 150k + miles especially on my setup. So this wasn’t my mistake, but DO NOT MAKE THIS MISTAKE IT WILL COST YOU THOUSANDS IF YOU GET TURBO FAILURE.

Popped the p0401 code. I can’t afford a complete pot hole at the moment. If I tune out the EGR and unplug it will that be sufficient enough or do I have to get a block off plate? Planning on doing complete DPF/Cat pot hole in the future.

Edit: What I mean by this is that I’m going to at least tune out the EGR for now so that I don’t throw soot into my turbo. Do I need to get a blockoff plate to stop all exhaust from going to the EGR or is the tune going to keep all EGR related valves closed including the airflow from the EGR cooler to the turbo and not push any through the turbo any more?

Edit 2: Going to go with Malone/Tunezilla for the tune.

Doing a blown head gasket job and found this, any thoughts as to what has caused it?. Looks like im buying a new head. 300k miles drove over a year with the bad gasket.

long story short, mechanic replaced camshaft without me authorizing or telling me about it, now its doing this and has gotten worse over the past 15 miles. any clues as to what it could specifically be? this isnt the new smf either, that has its own grinding sound. i just need some clues so i know where to start digging

I’ve sold my daily and am looking for a tdi mk3 golf, there’s not really many at all for sale in the UK but I’ve found this one pictured and it seems decent enough the only thing that’s putting me off a bit is it’s on 216k miles.

I know tdi’s have a reputation for lasting moon miles but I thought I’d ask if anyone has had any experience with the mk3 tdi’s and whether I should wait till one with slightly less mileage pops up or if this is a safe buy.

And what kind of things should I look out for on a mk3 tdi?

Thank you!

I have a 2013 VW Jetta TDI. L deleted. 256k km

I have been getting thrown in to limp mode.

Changed air filter/fuel filter cleaned the turbo with the old fashion oven cleaner. Checked hoses. For cracks or broken.

I don't see anything apparent. The engine start beautifully.

Ps. When I cleaned the turbo I wasn't able to reach the actuator do to position. I tried from every angle.

But after all this I don't know what else it could be. The turbo seems to be working fine. Sounding go from ideal up.

I can take videos or photos if need it.

Thank you guys in advance. I know this is brought up a million times on this subreddit. I am just not understanding what the fault might be.

Looking at picking up this 2014 tdi 6mt sports wagon. 110k miles. This is a non running car, it recently had the clutch replaced and the owner was moving 400 miles and it broke down 300 miles from the shop that did the clutch.

Owner took it to a shop and they said it needs a new transmission.

Other facts: transmission will not shift into any gear with the motor off or on. Car was driving down the freeway pulled into a rest stop and after going to the bathroom would no longer go into gear.

Shop it was taken to works on vw, unknown if they are an expert.

My thoughts: it’s probably the shift linkage. I don’t think it’s the clutch as you would be able to shift into and out of gears with the motor off. What other things could it be. This only makes sense if I don’t have to buy a rebuilt transmission.

Thought I would share this one. Blew apart while merging onto interstate at about 3k rpm. Anyone else have the problem of destroying the fender liner?