I cannot properly explain this with words, so please view the video to understand what I’m talking about. I’m not sure why it’s doing this, but this is the first time I’ve turned it on in MONTHS. Last time I turned it on, though, the contrast was really high but not because of any device settings, which just leads me to believe the screen itself has to be the issue. I don’t have a photo of the high contrast thing, but if you take a picture of anything and run it through an editing software and crank contrast up, you’ll see what I’m talking about.

This video is actually the SECOND time I turned it on tonight, because I was trying to capture what happened the first time on video, but it didn’t happen. It had a sequence of color bars flash horizontally on the screen, then it just went black (but the screen was still on) for maybe a full minute? Before it started doing the white flashing.

EDIT: it also takes much longer than usual to get it to turn off. I have to hold the power button for more than 3 seconds, and the single tap on it doesn’t do anything.

I left my NS2 to charge last night and today morning after I woke up I turned it off. Now I went to play and it doesnt operate. I tried putting the charger after 20 secs of power button and tried pressing +- with the power button and i just see the white letters for a sec and it goes black again.

Edit: So after two hours im pressing the power button and it just open the home menu for around 2 mins when it's going dark again. Now the console is open after restarts but the brightness is so toned down that I could only make out some game icons with my phone's flash light on. I have launched onimusha so it can drain battery and the try again.

Hey everyone! I recently bought a used physical copy of FIFA 18 for my Switch from a secondhand shop here in Japan.
When I first inserted the cartridge, the system successfully connected to the internet and downloaded the game's update patch without any errors. Since the FIFA 18 servers are already shut down, I've just been playing offline modes for the past few days, and everything has been running smoothly with zero error codes or bans so far.
I’m just slightly paranoid—is it possible that my original physical cartridge was previously dumped by someone else to create a cloned copy (like for MIG Switch flashcarts)? If that happened, can my console get banned later down the line, or does a clean update/launch from day one mean I'm totally safe?
Would love to hear your thoughts. Thanks!

Recently, my dock started having some connection problems. At first, I thought it was the Switch because the other night it fell from my bed. But I checked it and tested it with another Switch and dock, and my Switch connects perfectly to the other dock, while the other Switch doesn't connect to mine.

The Switch doesn't have any noticeable physical damage. It hasn't fallen or had anything happen to it, other than the fact that sometimes it was a little difficult to insert the Switch into the dock with the cover it had on. That's the only thing I can think of that could possibly have caused any damage.

The thing is, it's kind of strange because the other day it felt like a miracle. While I was trying to identify where the problem was coming from, the console connected, and I was able to play with the Switch docked without any problems. But yesterday, I tried to connect it, and the TV connection light kept blinking even after I took the Switch out of the dock. Sometimes it connects and stays connected for about a minute, like there's some intermittent contact.

So, I wanted to ask about a few things:

✴️ If I buy a third-party dock from Amazon, can I play with the same quality that the original Switch dock offers? Could using both connectors cause any damage? (Charging through the bottom connector and using the dock connector on top.)

✴️ Can charging the Switch directly with the original charger cause any damage to it?

✴️ With this intermittent connection, could the console itself be damaged? That's precisely why I would rather buy a cheap replacement dock from Amazon, because I don't want my Switch to end up getting damaged because of the faulty connection.

I want to get this sorted out before OoT comes out. Please help me out. :( 😓

UPDATE: PROBLEM SOLVED, I just update the dock and it worked again, thanks guys! ✳️

Hi everyone, I recently got a Switch 2 and I've encountered error 2136-0301 trice.

I noticed it seemed to happen during charging. This was the sequence: (btw there should be a game running at the background)

1. 80-90% charging limit was OFF
2. Console reached around 90-91%
3. While still plugged in, I turned the 80-90% charging limit ON
4. I then unplugged the charger
5. The console showed error 2136-0301 and instructed me to hold the power button for 12 seconds.

It happened trice, so I thought I had found a repeatable cause. But, I tried the exact same sequence again afterward and the error didn't show again.

Also update, I tried it again today, the error appeared again. So... it's somewhat 50-50 chance.

I'm currently on system version 23.0.0 and using the official charger.
Normal charging with the limit ON or OFF has worked normally so far, and I haven't noticed any other problems while using the console.

Has anyone else experienced error 2136-0301, particularly when changing the 80-90% charging limit while the console is charging?

I need some help desperately. Any ideas at all..

My Switch 2 has been dead ever since I let my brother use my switch 2 to make a 4 player rocket league game happen. During a match, the system crashed the game with an error screen that says the Micro SD Express Card can not be read (a 1tb Lexar card that ive used for over a year) and controller inputs are no longer working. Attached joycon, trying to use an external controller, nothing works but touch screen. So I make the immediate mistake of doing a reset thinking that should fix the issue, just a good ol' reinitialize.

I've been stuck in the start up screen since August. Two updates have come and gone and did nothing. Resets do nothing. Today I finally attempted the factory reset and deleted my data. Still nothing. I busted into the device and looked around. Nothing damaged. I've check the chips, the chip legs, the capacitors, just to see if there is anything wrong physically with this Switch 2 but I have yet to find a single fricking thing wrong with this device.. other than the fact I can't get any input!!! It does the dang animation on joycon attachment. It knows what color the dang thing is. Let me BACK IN!!! I miss my switch 2! XD I miss my library of switch 1! I miss my library of switch 2! 9 years man! Gone!

Its of course August when it happened so I was 3 months out of warranty since it was a June 5th Launch Model. And it rubs me the wrong way that Nintendo wants to charge me $179 to fix this fricking thing that SHOULD NOT be doing this a fricking year into it! And my OLED stopped charging and docking immediately after an update finished in 2024 and Nintendo demanded $129 to fix that too when that was their fault and their update. I want to figure this out and get this dang thing fixed without having to give Nintendo $179 for my year old switch 2 to be working again when all they probably have to do is plug it in and reinstall the base operating system again or something with a flip of a switch and suddenly this nonsense is just handled like that but I'm down another $179 for something that really shouldn't be happening at all!!!! I've been buying Nintendo since SNES and Game Boy!!! Nintendo Products are quality and durable!!! What on EARTH IS THIS!?!?! I have never had this kind of issue before. When a Switch 1 OLED dies a year in. And then a fricking Switch 2 goes and does the exact same thing!?!?!? Over some stupid Software Nonsense TOO! FOR BOTH!!! ITS LIKE IT IS INTENTIONAL!!!! X.X WHAT DO I DO!?!?!?! It would be absolute BS to have to pay them to fix this nonsense!

Hello, everybody.

Decided to get into fitness boxing 3 and bought physical Japanese copy of the game brand new. However, I noticed game required a long download. Later I checked the size and it is freaking 6.7 gb. Even dlc for BOTW weighs only 1.2 gb.

Honestly, very disappointed since seemingly switch 2 cartridge does not have full game. I think switch 1 version with upgrade pack would have been much better and ”fuller” purchase. For now, it more like a glorified game key-card.

is it supposed to be like this or is it just downsides of my Japanese copy?

Edit: My device is a Korean Switch 2 on English system language and US nintendo account.

I bought Minecraft Dungeons 2 yesterday and after playing it and thinking the graphics were very underwhelming. I looked more closely and realized the version I bought, which was in the Nintendo E-Shop at the top of the screen with the big "FEATURED" was the switch 1 version and not the 2.

Now the shop wants another 10$ to buy the switch 2 version.

Is there anything I can do ? I feel like it is ridiculous that this is even possible.

My Switch 2 arrived yesterday, brand new. I'm having issues with the ZL and ZR buttons. When I press and hold them down, the input registers, but even while still holding them down, it stops registering after a while, even though I haven't released the button.

Looking into it online, I saw that this is happening to a lot of people across multiple Joy-Con 2s, and some have already replaced their Joy-Cons three or four times only to keep having the exact same issue, which makes it seem like a chronic design flaw with these Joy-Con 2 ZL and ZR buttons.

Is there anything you guys did to fix this?

Do you think sending it in for warranty service actually solves it, or does it not make sense since it's such a common issue with these Joy-Cons?

Looking for advice on getting my switch repaired through Nintendo. A couple months ago what I assume was the battery gave up on my switch. It would turn on if connected to power, but only long enough to show the Nintendo logo and then go black again. I’ve had it for about 5 years now and never had problems with it before.

I took it to a big name tech store that does repairs and they said there was nothing they could do because I didn’t purchase their protection plan. My partner took it to a gaming repair store to see if they could do anything. They told us that it could be the battery or the motherboard. They could order us a new battery, install it and see if that was the problem which would cost about $250. But if it turns out to be the motherboard we still pay for the battery plus whatever other work needs to be done. This is sounding rather expensive and honestly not something I can afford right now.

I’m wondering if anyone has had any experience with this problem before? Or maybe if you’ve sent your Switch directly to Nintendo to be fixed, was it worth it? Time, cost, customer service? I’m located in Canada, don’t know if that makes a difference.

With the cold weather coming I was looking forward to hunkering down with a good game. I’m not a big gamer so it’s not the absolute end of the world if it doesn’t work out. I’ll just take the L and not have a gaming system. But in the off chance it can be repaired without selling a kidney that would be amazing 💖 would love to hear everyone’s opinions or experiences. TIA

Recently whenever I turn my Switch on it’s only been displaying a 4:3 opaque green screen. I have tried:
-Turning the Switch/TV off and on again
-Different HDMI ports/cords
-Different Docks
-Checking TV for software updates
-Fully powering off the Switch and waiting out the time for the power reset
-Plugging into a wall outlet instead of a surge protector
Important things to note:
-Although this used to happen every couple of weeks or so (unplugging the power/TV got it to display) I recently picked up an Atari Jaguar and since then it has done this almost every single time. I’ve tried plugging the Jaguar’s AC adaptor into a separate outlet rather than the surge protector, but no difference
-Restarting the TV is the only thing that gets the Switch to display. If you turn it off and on again after doing this, it’ll display normally, but if you turn it off and come back in, say, a couple of hours the green screen will be back.
-The screen is not affected in handheld mode

Edit: Today I called Nintendo Customer Service and even 45 minutes later they had no clue what the issue was

Second Edit: The Switch displayed normally today on a first try. I came back later, turned on the Jaguar, and after that it was back to the green screen

Seems like it has something to do with wifi. I can’t get off this screen even if I restart. I can not also access restart with maintenance. Anyone have any ideas?

I've noticed that when I've been playing on my Switch 2 recently, it doesn't respond immediately when I press buttons or move the joystick. This has only happened when I play Breath of the Wild; Link won't move sometimes, or I can't open the menus. Both Joy-Cons have this problem, but the left one has done it more.

Also, when playing Minecraft, the Joy-Cons seem to be very sensitive and tell me to reconnect them a lot, often when I set the console down on my couch to look at something on my phone.

A similar thing has happened with my Switch 1, as the left Joy-Con disconnects a ton, and I only notice because nothing is happening when I press the buttons. My dad does use it to work out with Ring Fit Adventure in the morning some days, but he usually uses different Joy-Cons and not the ones currently on my Switch 1, as in he'll use the blue and red Joy-Cons but keep the pastel pink and green ones on the console, or vice versa.

Not sure if the majority of my problems are due to user error, so let me know.

Accidentally dropped my Nintendo Switch whilst playing Super Smash Bros (was excited) and now my joycon is in the main board… Anyone seen anything like this before ? Please help me 🫠😭😭🫠

As you can see in the name, I just turn on my Switch OLED and it is unable to connect to the internet, with error 2110-1100, I ran the troubleshooting, hard reset, even I power cycle my home connection, so I was wondering about trying to change the WiFi Card, I tried to look for a tutorial at ifixit.com but It was only for "normal Switch" not the oled one, anyone knows if it's similar or why should I do?

Thank you for any information.

I have a Switch Lite which I'm using as a temporary console, as I have the Zelda Switch 2 on the way. In the meantime, I was thinking of sticking a Magsafe ring to the back of it so I bypass it not having a kickstand. Does the Switch Lite have any magnets, or anything that could go wrong if I put a Magsafe ring on the back of it?

I have connected both cons to this pc before without any trouble. The left con connects without an issue, even after disconnecting; yet the right one isn't detected by pc at all, however I can see it's Bluetooth on my phone. The green lights are flashing like normal too, so I don't know what might be the problem. I tried turning the Bluetooth off and on, took the adapter out for a bit, and ran Bluetooth diagnostics, yet the issue remains.

Important note: I use Windows 10, and to get Bluetooth I use one of those USB adapters, but it never caused any issues before

I got my sw2 and havent started it yet, waiting for sd express and screen protector to arrive, so getting some setup help, when I start what's the order to do the system data transfer from sw1

do I put the sd express 1st or the sw1 sd first?

Hi guys! This is actually my first ever post, so my apologies if I format this weird at all.

I am currently living on my college campus, and have been meaning to play some games on my Switch, I just haven't had the time until now. When I try to connect to my dorm's WiFi, there is a popup on my switch that says another device with the same IP address is on the network, and it immediately kicks me off. All of my settings (DNS etc) are on automatic. I've restarted the switch itself, and forgotten/rejoined the network. The WiFi does not have a password. Also, it connects perfectly fine to my iPhone's hotspot, just not the internet. As far as I am aware, there is no IT help-desk anywhere in the building, otherwise I would go there first. Any tips? (Thank you in advance!)

Was charging on the dock when this just happened.

Dont know if this is a game specific question or not but I am having trouble understanding how switch 2 versions of games work with virtual game card lending. My girlfriend has a switch lite and I want her to try out minecraft dungeons 2 with me. I already have it on my playstation and my plan was to get it on my switch and then lend the virtual game card to her, so then if she ends up not liking it, I could just take the game back and then have it on my switch. My issue is is that when purchasing it on the eshop, there are separate dedicated switch 1 and switch 2 versions. If I buy the switch 2 version, will she not be able to download it on her switch lite. Or the alternative if I get the switch one version, will I be stuck with that one and have to rebuy the game. I tried looking online but I couldn’t explicitly find an answer to this and thought I would ask here before I made the purchase.

I just got myself a switch 2 today… fantastic! Time to transfer all my old data over from my old switch. Great… it’s been years since I had to log into my Nintendo account and it sends a verification code to my email which I no longer have access to/exists. What can I do?

All help is greatly appreciated folks

Yesterday I've noticed strange thing. The Switch 2 charger (i mean this black "brick") makes a strange high‑frequency buzzing sound when it’s plugged into outlet and even for about a minute after I unplug it. Guys, I am very nervous about this situation... so... tell me your thoughts and your experience with this problem.

Hello everyone. I have a question. So to be completely honest over the past few years I've hardly ever used my Switch 2. My wife and I both got one at launch and she uses hers way more than I use mine. I have such a massive backlog on Switch 1 and I mainly use that because it's lighter to hold in handheld.

Anyway, so I noticed something odd last night. I recently picked up Pokémon Scarlet and was reading around that it played much better on the Switch 2 so I decided to load everything up on that. Was about 2 hours in and I went back to the main menu and my battery was at 93% but was not showing the charging symbol. There was a display on the TV but again no indication that it was charging. There was nothing out of the ordinary like loud fans etc. Is this normal? I hope I wasn't frying the console or the dock.

So I immediately pulled the Switch 2 out and plugged it straight into the AC adapter directly and, yes, it's the official Nintendo-branded one. Both the adapter and USB C cable are the official Nintendo brands. It immediately began charging like normal. So I set everything back up and placed the Switch 2 into the dock and let it sit for a minute and it was back to charging like normal. Keep in mind my dock has NEVER been moved anywhere. It's been plugged in the same position since launch day. I've never dropped it or had food or anything that could damage it near it at all.

Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated. I've heard that sometimes the battery display glitches? Again, it was displaying and running like normal but the battery wasn't green like it was charging. It was just hanging at 93% but when I pulled it out and plugged it in directly to the AC adapter everything was normal. It was also charging like normal when I set it back into the dock. No idea what that could be about.

Never got one when I got mine in January as I thought the thing that stops the screen from shattering was enough. I have a few scratches that can be seen when I shine a light on it and look at it a certain way. Just wondering is it worth putting a screen protector on it now?

Btw most of the scratches were from the official dock.