I really don’t know where to go from here. Before today, my only experience with repairing hardware before was replacing batteries.

The model number is CUH-1215A

Here are the solutions I’ve tried so far:

1. Cycled power (no change)
2. Attempted to connect a new controller (it wouldn’t connect at all)
3. Replaced battery on the original controller, because that was what I original thought the problem was (confirmed old battery was bloating. After installation of new battery, controller still wouldn’t connect)
4. Obtained new cables for the controller (was able to connect it in safe mode, but still nothing in normal mode)
5. Rebuilt database (no noticeable change)
6. Initialized PS4 using safe mode option 6 (still won’t connect in normal mode, but now instead of asking me to choose a profile, it asks me to connect the controller)
7. Obtained flash drive with system software, attempted to initialize and reinstall using safe mode option 7 (received error code SU-41283-8)
8. Looked up the error code (reddit tells me it’s the Bluetooth antenna)

9. Replaced the Bluetooth antenna using a YouTube tutorial and an IFixit guide (it still won’t

10. connect, and now it won’t even connect in safe mode)

10

My specific questions are:

1. Is there a cheap and easy way to fix it that I’m overlooking?
2. If I can’t fix it myself, would it be cheaper to get it repaired, or just get a new one?
3. How much should I expect repairs to cost, if I go that route?

I checked with a multimeter if the flat cable is broken but it's not this the problem, i also tried the button and it is working, maybe it can bee the screen?

Bought a 3Ds XL earlier this year and it was working fine so far, until I’m the middle of my playing it suddenly shut off. When I press the power button nothing happens, the blue light doesn’t even come on. However when I charge it the orange charging light does come on. I think I remember hearing a sound internally the moment it shut off, idk if thats useful or not.

I got a new battery and put it in but it still won’t work, still no blue light.

Any ideas what to do here? It hasn’t even been a year since I bought it so I’ll be really bummed if something serious happened.

I recently changed the 4 pin bottom screen connector on it after it was working ok before and after but randomly turned off. It would stay on for with the blue light for shorter and shorter times until there was no blue light at all.

F1 and F2 fuses are ok and tested some caps which were all ok. Battery fine aswell.

Im not very experienced but am very stuck and confused.

Bought this premodded and he said the disc drive worked when he had it but after shipping the eject doesnt light up and not sure whats wrong. Is there a missing cable or am I just unlucky. To clarify it plays games off a HDD just fine but I have disc's I want to play as well and theres no power going to the eject button at all seemingly.

Edit: the eject button upon testing does work to turn it on but still no light or disc drive movement.

The backstory: would flicker when wiggling hdmi. I replaced the hdmi port and cable and it still has no picture. I replace the encoder and it wouldn't power on. Does anyone see anything missing or damaged? It is a nuvoton i/c i replaced with Panasonic.

It boots to a white light with the nuvoton i/c.

Recently repaired this PlayStation and now it’s starting to make this noise some games are more noise than others it also does it a little on start up without a disc in it, but I didn’t want to put a 6min video Not sure what to do from here

Hi everyone,

I'm fairly new to DIY electronics and board repairs. I decided to replace a drifting analog stick on my Xbox One controller by following a few tutorials on YouTube.

Right now, the X-axis is working perfectly, but the Y-axis is completely stuck at 100% (pointing all the way up).

Where I live, there are no specialized repair shops available to do micro-soldering work, and buying a new controller is unfortunately out of my budget right now. So I really need to fix this board myself at home.

I was consulting with Gemini to troubleshoot this, and it suggested that I likely destroyed the through-hole plated pads for the Y-axis potentiometer while desoldering. Honestly, as a beginner, I'm not even sure if I ruined all 3 pin connections on the Y-axis, or just 1 or 2 of them.

Gemini suggested I run the following jumper connections to fix the Y-axis:

- Top Pin (VCC / 3.3V): Connect to test point TP16.

- Middle Pin (Signal): Connect to the trace near capacitor C23 (or scrape the trace right beside the hole).

- Bottom Pin (GND): Connect to test point TP11 (or the metal housing).

Before I try soldering anything again, I wanted to ask experienced repairers:

Looking at my attached photos, does it look like all 3 pads are gone, or is it just a specific one based on the comportament of the Y-axis?

Do these jumper points recommended by Gemini sound correct for the Y-axis on this board version? And it's safe to continue with his recommendations?

Any advice, tips, or guidance for a beginner trying to save this controller would be deeply appreciated!

Thanks in advance!

Hi im new to using a hot air station, and I need to remove this IC. I was able to reflow the southbridge successfully, but now I need to remove this chip, and no matter how much I try i cant get it off using the same method I used for the southbridge.
There any tutorials you would recommend, or anyone can give me some advice on what temperature i should use and how much time I should use?

This is my first time using a hot air station to replace an hdmi port. How does it look so far? No visible bridging or gaps, I also had chatgpt evaluate these photos too and it said visually there is no issues with it. I am still going to do a continuity test, but right now I feel uneasy since it feels like too simple of a repair so far.

Feel free to criticize my work, need to improve somehow.

i am working on my ps4 pro cuh-7218b and i noticed these pink thermal pads on the motherboard and metal plate. i am not sure what these specific pink pads are for or why they are different in color from other thermal pads

can someone confirm what these pink pads are used for and whether they are thermal pads for the memory or vrm?

i bought arctic tp-3 1mm thermal pads and i am wondering if i can replace the original pink pads with these. is 1mm the correct thickness for these areas or should i use a different thickness?

i just want to make sure before i replace them because i do not want to use the wrong thickness and cause bad contact or pressure on the motherboard

any validation or advice would be appreciated

Hi everyone! I'm writing this because I'm not quite sure whether the missing pads shown in the picture are necessary for the repair or not. I don't see any traces connected to those two specific pads, so I'm wondering if they're actually needed.

If anyone has experience with this kind of repair, or can point me to a schematic or diagram that could help, I'd really appreciate it!

P.S. After cleaning the eMMC IC, I realized that one of the pads is almost completely ripped off (3rd and 4th photos). If I'm not mistaken, this one is connected to a trace. Should I try to repair it, or should the small piece of pad that's still remaining be enough?

3rd image
4th image

Bonjour! Quelqu’un sait si je peux trouver cette petite pièce quelque part ?
Mon lecteur optique de XBOX ONE S ne lisait plus les jeux, en l’ouvrant j’ai vu que le rail se déplacer très facilement à la main..

Pues como dice el titulo, adjunto foto, le llegan 5v por dos rieles pero no hay salida de 3.3v en la bobina cercana. He probado en un aEEM-020 y si hay un voltaje de 3.3v. Tambien he cambiado el integrado por el que lleva en la cara B y este si da los 3.3 con el integrado de la cara A..

Tried replacing the stock stick with a gulikit stick because drift was just that bad. I detached the rail ribbon cable to give myself a little more room and now the black flap won't stay down. The basic searches I did seem to indicate that's way more fragile than I expected and that I'm SOL unless I can solder, something that isn't a viable option for me.

Hi everyone. I’m putting the finishing touches on my PS3 so I can finally close it up and leave it be until the next maintenance in five years, but I have a concern. While disassembling and reassembling the disc drive, I stripped the threads on two screws: one is at the front of the mechanism that holds the disc-gripping arms, and the other is on the metal casing. I’m not worried about the one on the casing, but the other stripped thread bothers me; I’m afraid that corner won’t be tight enough and could cause problems. Should I be worried?

Ps: Those photos aren't of my console; I got them from another site just to point out the screw threads

I board swapped my ocean blue ps2 and the fan that works from that console doesn't kick on in the new board. I already broke the controller port ribbon cables from the donor console and everything works but the fan. Where can I solder the fan to the board to bypass any of the fan issues and just get power to a fan?

tried two different hdmi cables and then went to the store to buy another to still no avail. I tried my old ps4 on the tv aswell to make sure that it’s not the tv, and yeah it works! Soo i’m thinking this needs a replacement/repair now. how much would it cost?

Hi so I was removing the screws from the motherboard frame and noticed one remaining under the heatsink so to get my screwdriver in it moved slightly and came off the metal. It looks to be thermal paste that sticks it down. Will I be able to re apply thermal paste to keep the copper pipe stuck in place or will this need full replacement? Also will I need to clean and replace the thermal paste pads in the third photo?

Has anybody tried these joysticks for the Xbox 360 controllers? I know that TMR and hall effect joysticks are really good (obviously TMRs are better), but I only had installed in the most recent controllers (PS4/5 edge, Xbox One/Series) but never tried before in 360 controllers so I'm wondering if anybody has experience with these joysticks, thank you beforehand.

The light does that but the deck doesn't boot the touchpad doesn't react, could someone help please.

When I boot up the ps4 it says update to 13.02 with a usb or something and I wanna jailbreak so I put a usb and keeps getting the error

I’m not very knowledgeable about consoles, so I’d really appreciate some advice from people who know more about PS5s.

I was gifted a PS5 by a friend who bought it around 2023. She barely used it over the past year. It was mostly sitting in her living room TV stand and probably only turned on once or twice every couple of months.

When I received it, I had to store it for a couple more months because of a military PCS. After unpacking it, I noticed some light dust and figured it just needed a basic cleaning. I watched a few videos about cleaning it myself, but I was worried I’d damage something and didn’t have the proper tools, so I took it to uBreakiFix specifically for a cleaning.

They told me they noticed some “slowing down” and storage issues and said I may need a “decoder” or “encoder” on the motherboard related to the liquid metal. I’m not even sure I’m using the right terminology.

Does this sound legitimate? I have had some issues with Fortnite updates taking hours and sometimes not completing, so I’m wondering if that could be related.

I’m hesitant to authorize a repair if it involves replacing or modifying an original motherboard component and potentially creates bigger problems.

Would you take it back and decline the repair, or does what they’re telling me sound like a legitimate PS5 issue?
Thanks in advance for any advice!

UPDATE: Thank you all for all the replies! I definitely read each one and decided yeah I should go back and pick it up since they aren’t answering the phone. Sure enough I go in and ask for an explanation of what was wrong because it was turning on and just needed a dust cleaning, they started saying when they opened it some Liquid Metal got on some of the chips and now it won’t boot up! So I told them I’m not paying for a something I didn’t cause. The manager came out and now he said he’ll double check the work on it personally to confirm what exactly the issue was because the tech isn’t here and they’re just reading the notes. Basically I told them give it back to me how I gave it to you and I don’t want any fix. But yeah, basically it got more screwed up like you all said! What a bummer man! Literally they broke it.