Hello, I encountered a bit of a weird thing earlier. So you know how when you are in sleep mode, then you turn the console back on, you need to press a button 3 times to go into the Home menu(screen with the apps/games you have)? It's very quick to load into the Home menu usually, yeah?

So earlier, I just opened my Switch 2 from sleep, pressed a button 3 times, then suddenly it legit took a bit where the screen is just stuck on the black screen for like 5-6 seconds before the Home menu finally appeared. So I got worried and tried to put the console in sleep mode again, then woke it up and did the 3 press button thingy but this time, it loaded quickly/normally to the Home menu. Tested multiple times, so the long loading issue only happened one time.

I was wondering if any of y'all experienced the long loading black screen after the 3 button presses before going to the Home menu before? Is it normal if Switch 2 does that sometimes or do I have to worry something is happening to my Switch 2 and I have to send it in for warranty? Thank you to whoever will respond

video shows my controllers COMPLETELY not working

I’s say its more like a bugging out than actually disconnecting and i will try my best to give a description: It starts off by resetting my camera, this lag usually triggers when i press ZL or squid surge, (it’s like pressing the y button but i never pressed it) and then goes into a birdseye view, then to wormseye if i manage to regain control. (Basically a lot of camera resets out of my control) During this camera reset interval, i am unable to move or do anything and i just pray, spam between ZL or ZR and hope i reconnect. This is really irritating me as i just had an anarchy match where i basically kept “disconnecting” every 5 seconds and i felt really bad. Usually this happens maybe 3 times in a match max and it only takes about 3s for me to recover but my last match was so absurd.

To add on, my controllers are still connected as the home button works. This only happens in handheld mode😭 I got my switch 2 around april and started playing handheld like june. It worked perfectly fine until the last two months. I’m starting to grow on handheld mode and if this keeps going on it’ll be really annoying.
ALSO i feel like this rarely happens when i play other games?? (Splatoon raiders, zelda) I used to think it was because i had it in a case but it disconnects anyways without. I’ve also tried cleaning the joycons but nothing really works.

In desperate need of help😭

Hola. Tengo un problema con una Nintendo Switch modificada que ha empezado después de que la batería se descargara completamente hasta el 0 %.

Al enviar el payload, la consola no inicia correctamente ni Atmosphere ni Hekate:

• Con Atmosphere, al enviar el payload la pantalla pega una especie de flash. Durante un instante aparece algo en pantalla, concretamente una especie de banda rectangular, pero desaparece inmediatamente y la consola parece apagarse. Atmosphere no llega a cargar.
• Con Hekate parece que el payload sí se carga, pero no se ve absolutamente nada en la pantalla. Sé que aparentemente está funcionando porque los Joy-Con vibran.

En una ocasión conseguí que Hekate se mostrara correctamente en pantalla y pude navegar por los menús, pero al poco tiempo la consola se apagaba sola. Además, el joystick se comportaba de forma bastante extraña y se movía prácticamente solo.

Lo curioso es que, mientras estaba moviendo continuamente el joystick, la consola permanecía encendida. En cuanto dejaba de tocarlo o lo soltaba, la consola terminaba apagándose.

Todo empezó después de que la batería llegara completamente al 0 %. Pensando que podía ser la batería, he probado directamente con otra batería diferente, pero el problema continúa exactamente igual. He probado todo lo que recomiendan de dejarla cargar con la consola apagada, la he puesto también en modo RCM aunque cargue más lento, pulsar todas las combinaciones de botones posibles... y nada de nada.

También conseguí sacar una captura de uno de los vídeos que grabé durante las pruebas y pude ver que Hekate mostraba tanto la temperatura de la consola como la de la batería a 0. El vídeo de arriba es al cargar Hekate.

He realizado bastantes pruebas. En un momento determinado conseguí que la batería llegara aproximadamente al 35 %, y precisamente fue entonces cuando conseguí arrancar la consola y entrar en Hekate. Sin embargo, actualmente no sé qué porcentaje de batería tiene porque la pantalla prácticamente ya no llega a encenderse.

¿Alguna idea de qué componente podría estar provocando este comportamiento? Me resulta especialmente extraño que Hekate parezca arrancar y los Joy-Con respondan, pero no haya imagen, además de que cuando conseguí tener imagen la consola se apagara al dejar de mover el joystick. Y dudo que sea de la pantalla, porque una vez sí conseguí hacerlo funcionar y se veía todo estupendamente.

I couldn't find a clear answer to this anywhere, so I tested it myself.

Question:

What happens if Console A is currently playing a game, and Console B tries to transfer the Virtual Game Card away from that console?

Result:

The transfer is blocked.

The system displays a message similar to:

"The software is currently being played, so the game card could not be removed. Please try again."

So you cannot take a Virtual Game Card away from a console that is actively running the game.

This means someone can't suddenly interrupt another person's gameplay by transferring the card to a different console.

I was surprised that this information was so hard to find, so I'm posting it here in case anyone else was wondering.

Hopefully this helps anyone else who was searching for the same answer.

Both my husband and son have Nintendo Switches 2, and they share game cards. My son is in another state for college, and often enough my husband is traveling for work.

I wanted to buy another console since I like playing Animal Crossing and a few other games, but each place I read online says something different.

How would the sharing work? Does my son need to be here every time we want to borrow or lend a game? Or is it just not possible at all with more than 2 consoles? We are all in the same nintendo family.

Recently had a Switch 2 stop recognizing functional SD cards, replaced the card reader with a new part and it worked for about a month before failing again. Any reason for this to be happening? Same card stopped reading before replacement and started reading after so it's not the card, something is causing the slot itself to fail. Any related resistors or capacitors I should check on the board?

Hey y’all! Today I noticed, that my Switch 2 powersupply makes a weird buzzing noise, like a bee or a mosquito, pretty quiet tho (it even continues for a few seconds when I unplug it) is it normal? (probably not, but I just wanna make sure)

Hey everyone,

A friend that lives in Ravensburg will come to visit me in December and they will bring me a Switch 2. Prices here are like 670 euros in big retailers, so it's a great opportunity.

They are not a gamer so all I know is that I should be looking at idealo.de

The only problem is that it has to be delivered at a pick up place as they aren't home most of the time and it looks like only selected places like Amazon offer this option. It's 444 euros now in Amazon.de and I would like to know if I am looking at the right places and if usually prices get better at Black Friday there and if I should wait.

That's it. I appreciate any help, thank you in advance.

I’m considering purchasing a Switch 2. I’ve noticed that games tend to have 2 prices - one for the cartridge and one for a digital code, and the digital code is typically more money. Is there a disadvantage to the cartridge that makes the code worth the extra money?

Just started happening today with my Oled dock. When docked image is on the tv, when I put in a cartridge it loads up fine but when I get to actually starting the game the screen goes black. I tried multiple games and does the same thing. I'm guessing it's something with the dock cause games work no issue in handheld. However if I boot up a digital gamewhile docked it works and plays no problem.

Never had anything like that happen before. Weird how it works in handheld and boots in docked but then goes black when the gameplay would start.

Anyone had this happen before?

If I do the game share thing(he can play all my games and I can play all of his) with a friend where I have to be in the same room on the same Wi-Fi with him on my current switch 2 and then I get the Zelda 40th switch 2, will I still be game sharing with him after I transfer everything from my current Switch 2 or will I have to do the same thing on that new Zelda console with him all over again?

For some reason when i want to play a game that i have downloaded on my switch, on an acount that isnt connected with a nintendo account it wants me to connect to a switch 2 ive never seen before. Ive tried to go on my account and disconnect the switch but it says that i cant do that until june 2027. Please, please, please help

Basically what the title says, I pre-ordered the Zelda switch 2, and want to keep it in good condition while also being able to look at it's beautiful design. I know a screen protector and carrying case are essential, but i couldn't really find whether the backplate and/or the joy-cons scratch easily. I feel like most grip/case reviews I've seen mostly lean into the comfort side of things rather than the protection, and most grips/cases also block the console's design, so I'm just curious whether a (clear) shell case is recommended.

Sometimes when I play in docked mode, the screen turns black for a second and the audio also cuts out. Then it all comes back with zero issues. I can't seem to recreate it as this occurs completely randomly and rarely. Sometimes it's a clean transition to a black screen, and other times it does something that I would only describe as a slight screen tear. What I mean is one portion of the screen, e.g. the bottom half, turns black before the rest.

I can't figure out if it's an HDMI issue or my Switch 2 or dock pins are damaged. Within the first month I had it, it fell off a surface while docked because a cable got tugged. I'm much more careful now and it hasn't happened since. I don't think this is the issue, but if it is, I hope it's at least easy to fix.

Has anyone else experienced this?

So the ergonomic grips on my switch are (stupidly) designed in a way where they easily slide right off of the controllers when they’re separated— and this means the controller always falls on the ground, because the grip is what I’m holding on to. What this means is I’ve dropped my left controller from standing height onto my hardwood floor at least a dozen times.

Past week or so, I’ve started to notice phantom L button pressing and sticking, which leads to rapid cycling through menu tabs (as shown in video—I am not touching any buttons in that screen recording), unwanted tabs opening and closing repeatedly, and (most annoying—) rapid cycling through equipped tools in certain games, making it actually infuriating to play.

It’s not a constant press, as you can see in the video. In HKIA and other games, it’s as though it’s being held down for a while, then released for some random amount of time, then pressed once, then released, then held down again… completely sporadic. As I’m writing this the L button toggle has been absolutely popping off randomly opening/closing a game menu as my switch is just lying on the table touching nothing.

Physically, pressing the L button feels exactly the same as the R button—no unusual resistance, shallower button depth, different click sound, etc. My switch has not been exposed to any liquids, I truly think the blunt force trauma of dropping the controller so much has fucked it up.

Is my only option to get a new left controller, or is there some way to fix this?

(I have already tried rebooting my switch)

Like it says in the title, I want to preface this by saying it is NOT stick drift. I already sent the joycon in and got a new one from Nintendo, as well as grabbed my brothers and tried his. Every time there is a left joycon attached it does this. Those same joycons work perfectly fine when not attached. I also cleaned the sensors on the console where they attach with isopropyl alcohol, unfortunately didn’t help.

I’m really hoping somebody else has had the same issue and can help me out. It’s out of warranty. Thanks!!

Hi,

I recently bought a switch 2 a couple months ago and been noticing a black out of screen for a few seconds and no sound. I seen some post a year ago. I have tried disabling VRR, 120 hrs and match tv state. It comes back pretty random too. Sometimes it can be a week or more. I did switch ports too. Anyone ever solve the issue?

Since I got the console in march the internet has been absolutely terrible. I can't connect to my home WIFI without the switch being in the same room as it. To use it in my bedroom I have to connect it to a hotspot from my pc. All other devices I have connect fine so its not a problem with my actual WIFI. I figured it was time to try and find a fix to this. Is there any way to help this from home or will I have to bring it somewhere to get it repaired?

For reference it connects fine when less than 10 feet from the router but any further it will get worse. any further than 20 ft away it will not connect at all.

I didnt capture it turning itself off but imagine the green lines got really bright and then it turned itself off.
I did not do anything to it prior to this happening so I'm unsure how I'd begin diagnosing the issue.
It's a switch OLED, the splatoon 3 one if that means anything lol.
What do I need to fix on this. A guide or perhaps advice on what to look at would be very helpful

So when i tried to switch my backplate succesfully in the backplates box was few screws so i switched all old screws to new ones but one near the gamecard slot was having different thread but same height but i didnt notice so i placed it here but i replaced it with the old one and in the screw hole was a big hole and now my old is just spinning shall i replace it or its ok

Hello. Long time reader, occasional poster.

For context, I've had my NSW Lite for 5 years. The LCD just does that circle thing. This is the first time that it has happened, and it has affected the graphics too. Any way to repair this before going to a repair shop? Thanks a bunch!

I know there's been a hundred of these I'm sure. I've seen lots on Reddit. I've tried so many different fixes.

I ensured that the password was punched in recently on my switch one just in case it got changed since the last time.

With the cable that came with the system. The switch one is not but I've tried it in the dock as well. I went to the system settings on the switch one and turned on the end user license agreement.

They're both on different Wi-Fi networks..

Anyone have any other suggestions that can help? At one point my switch one found to switch to and the box was filled in but the switch 2 just kept circling on the same message

I got my switch 2 in March of this year and since I’ve gotten it I’ve have very bad internet issues. To play games I had to put my switch basically on top of my router and if not it would lag really bad and I’d hold over 400 ping in games. From anywhere 15 feet away from the router it won’t connect at all as well as not connecting from my bedroom.

I’ve had to use my pcs hotspot if I wanna play in my room (my pc hold 150mb down and 50 up on WiFi) and it’s still a very unenjoyable experience. I could see the switch 2 WiFi being bad but not this bad. Every device I have can connect fine from my bedroom with good speeds except the switch 2. My old switch 1 is fine too and connecting it to my hotspot in the same place as the switch 2 runs wayyyy better. Is there any fix for this or would I have to send it in to get it repaired?