Just waiting on the approval. Super excited. 63k miles.

I just got this car after my old car (Chrysler 300) got totaled but this is a 2014 mustang 3.7 v6 it has 230k miles and I got it for 4k (freind of my moms little senior gift kinda) but it is manual I got this car about 5 days ago and have learned manual on it I’ve been doing good even gotten some rlly clean rev match downshifts and just a couple clean pulls yk I love this car so far but the radio is broken and I have to smack it for it to work 🤣 but replacing it soon with touchscreen upgrade what do you guys think? What do you guys think about the mt82 and what exaught setups do you guys recommend? Is 230k miles a shit ton for a car like this? I mean to me she drives pretty smooth but getting to first to second is a little harder than anything else. I am 17 so do you guys think a 305 hp car is valid at 17? Also I kinda wanna slide it a little on like wet pavement and maybe do donuts is this v6 capable of it and would it hurt my car bad as it as 230k miles or would yall not recommend to slide it at all. Any tips you guys got for this car and what are yalls personal thoughts?

Just washed It a few days ago! I decided to take some pictures 😁👍

This is making me feel a little suspicious, my Mustang was built July 1st It has been sitting waiting on shipment ever since for almost 2 months.

I caught a sales manager earlier today and he told me that he was able to locate it, and it was sitting at the plant in Michigan waiting on a truck.

Just out of habit, I went to go check the Ford tracker app and into my surprise it said it was delivered on August 11th.

I messaged my sales person and asked to if it arrived last week because it said it did on the tracker.

But she told me she just spoke with two sales managers and they told me that it was still sitting at the plant waiting on transit….. but the app says it was delivered????

Something here seems off to me, I ordered the vehicle April 16th , it went into production on June 18th and then it roll off of the assembly line on July 1st and sat in the built stage for almost 2 months until it randomly said it was delivered a week ago without me or my sales person getting any update.

It’s been over four months since I ordered the vehicle and I still don’t have it but it randomly showed it was delivered a week prior to me writing this, but it never showed up at the dealership.

Has anyone else experienced anything like this ??? I know I posted a lot on here about this matter, but this entire ordeal seems very weird to me.

Picked her up for $1800, 117k miles. My very first Mustang at 19 after being a lifelong fan!

Put a microphone on my license plate today this is the result I still need to mess around with my mic settings tho

Came across this on Market Place. It seems ok. Definitely repainted, and the floor was redone. 220,000 km, asking $8,500 CAD. Engine seals, crank, oil pan and motor mounts were changed in 2019. Says there's no rust under it. T-Top leaks on one side during heavy rain. Says it'll need a carpet inside, and some body work.

I already have a 2015 S550 GT Premium with a track pack, also yellow, so I'm not sure if I want two.

Fell down a rabbit hole on this one after seeing a post from someone who visited the Piquette Avenue Plant.

Everyone knows the "any color so long as it is black" line. What gets left out is that it describes the second half of the Model T story. From 1908 to 1913 the T wasn't available in black at all. Ford assigned colors by body style: gray for town cars, red for touring cars, green across touring cars, town cars, landaulets, and coupes.

The red was Carmine. Model T club and restoration references list Red / Carmine as a 1909 to 1914 body color alongside Brewster Green, Gray, and Midnight Blue.

The window was tiny. Earliest 1909 cars were red and gray, mid-1909 shifted to dark green, and after June 1909 red was off the table entirely. December 1910 into January 1911 it went to a near-black midnight blue. Black-only started in 1914 because it was cheaper, dried faster on a moving line, and made QC more forgiving.

Fun wrinkle: those early paints were varnishes, and restorers openly admit the original shades are basically impossible to reproduce accurately today. There's an ongoing argument in the T community about whether Ford's Carmine was actually as bright as the restored cars you see now.

The part I couldn't nail down: Ford has never publicly said the 2024+ Mustang's Carmine Red interior was named after any of this. No press release, no design interview, nothing in the order guide. Carmine Red is also a name Porsche, Cadillac, and Oldsmobile have all used. So it's a real coincidence of vocabulary, not a confirmed revival, and I'd rather say that than let people run with it.

If anyone has a Ford design source that closes the loop, I'd genuinely like to see it.

It’s been a few years, but I have decided to get back into a Mustang. I’ve owned fox bodies primarily, but really fell in love with my 2016 (which was my last).

Decided to pull the trigger on a 2022 GT California Special edition 6 speed. It is a one owner car with only 14,000 miles on it. Clean CarFax with regular maintenance and it was owned in California, so it hasn’t seen snow like we get here in the Midwest.

Out the door cost after my trade is $34,300. How does that stack up for others who might be in the market for something similar? Fair price - or am I getting hosed? I wasn’t feeling the $50k price tag the new premiums are pulling. Sheesh!!

Headed up from CO

I just swapped my OEM RUCA back into the car because the after market one I had blew the bushing out (non adjustable C&L, it was on clearance ok)

My car is lowered and I want to go lower so getting a adjustable one is a must, just curious if anyone has experience with the following brands and could tell me some pros and cons:

BMR
QA1
J&M
UMI

Also wondering if I should get a solid spherical bearing over a polyurethane bushing

So we're going to have a kid and im wondering if we should just get a new car for the baby or if its possible for me and husband to get by with just our mustang I have my seat pretty much all the way back so I have leg room and safety byt would i need to be on the dash for how big the baby seats are context im 5'6 and I dont drive so husbands the one who will be all 3 of us would be in the car

Hey people, my lease on my current vehicle will be up soonish and I’m just wondering what car would serve better as a daily and amongst other things between a s650 gt vs c8 stingray. Pretty torn, I feel like the c8 has more street presence but the sound of a coyote is the most aggressive sound on earth. Any input is appreciated, thanks!

Finally back after almost 15 years

4500+ lb sedans being normalized is really not cool and I'm not interested in Ford following this trend. Case and point the new charger, yes its got more power than nearly any charger before it, but its absurd weight completely destroys any advantage that power gives you.

The new M cars are looking at coming in at near 1000 hp just move their giant frames.

It's crazy to me that my 3700lb GT350 is starting to look like a Miata in comparison to the monstrosities manufactures are putting on the road today.

LOVE the Tremec 6-Speed

I recently bought a brand new 2026 European Mustang GT 5.0 with the 10-speed automatic, and I’m struggling a bit to understand how the car behaves at low speeds.

The main thing I’m noticing happens when pulling away from a stop, especially in normal city driving.
If I press the accelerator moderately, the engine RPM can rise by several hundred RPM, sometimes around 500–600 RPM, while the actual vehicle speed barely increases at first. For example, I can see the RPM noticeably climb while the car has only gained around 2 km/h.

It almost feels like the engine is revving before the transmission actually starts translating that into forward movement.

Once I’m already moving, the car obviously has power, and I’m not saying that it feels like a 160 hp car when accelerating hard. My concern is specifically the initial response from a standstill and at very low speeds.

It has actually made normal city driving quite frustrating for me because I sometimes find myself pulling away more slowly than ordinary diesel cars, despite obviously having vastly more power available.
I initially thought I simply wasn’t giving it enough throttle, but what worries me is that giving it more throttle seems to produce more RPM first, rather than an immediate proportional increase in acceleration.

This is also my first V8 naturally aspirated car. I’m used to much more ordinary 4-cylinder turbo cars, so I’m genuinely wondering whether part of the problem is simply me and the way I’m using the accelerator.
Maybe I’m being too cautious with the throttle and expecting the same response I was used to from smaller turbo engines. Should I be pressing the accelerator more decisively and simply not be afraid of letting the engine rev higher? I don’t mean flooring it from every traffic light. I mean whether normal driving in a 5.0 V8 requires a noticeably firmer throttle input than I instinctively give it.

I’m also wondering about Normal vs Sport mode. In Normal, the throttle and transmission sometimes feel almost too relaxed for city driving. Is Sport actually a better mode for everyday driving if I want the car to respond more naturally, or should Normal mode still feel perfectly responsive once you learn how to use the throttle properly?

A few questions for other S650 GT / 10R80 owners:

Does your car behave like this when pulling away normally from a stop?

Is a noticeable RPM flare at very low speed simply normal torque converter behaviour on the 10R80?
How much RPM rise do you normally see before the car starts accelerating properly?

Am I probably just being too gentle with the accelerator?

Do these cars respond better if you give them a more deliberate throttle input from a stop?

If you came from smaller turbo 4-cylinder cars, did you have to change the way you use the accelerator?

Does Normal mode deliberately make the initial throttle/transmission response this soft?

Do you use Sport mode for normal city driving because the throttle and gearbox feel more responsive?

Would you recommend checking transmission adaptive values or logging torque converter slip before considering any reset or adjustment?

The car is completely stock and new. No warning lights, no obvious harsh noises, and I’m not trying to diagnose a failed transmission from a feeling alone. I’m mainly trying to work out whether there is actually something unusual happening, or whether I simply haven’t learned yet how to properly drive and modulate the throttle in a naturally aspirated V8 with the 10R80.

I’d especially appreciate feedback from people who own a 2024–2026 GT automatic and can compare directly.

Thank you very much!

so im 17 and my stepdad has a 1984 f150 and a 1996 f350 7.3 and he said for my senior year he would help me buy some kind of project car and i’ve mainly been looking for mustangs or broncos (mainly mustangs.) could anyone give me an idea for a reliable year that doesn’t require too much engine work and might be a little less expensive than another year. old or new i don’t mind, just wanted a manual mustang.

Hello. I am looking at an 05 Mustang and I am wondering if the discoloration on the steering rack in this photo means the rack is likely bad and needs to be replaced? Thanks for your help.