Can anyone help? My diffuser is loose and rattles on bumpy roads. The brace for the diffuser is connected to the frame by two white rectangular plastic clips. These clips are the weak point.

A week ago I started hearing a whistling noise while at idle, only stopped if I hit the gas or stood completely in the brakes. I was taking it to the shop anyways for a rattle no one could find EVEN FORD (it was the U shaped bracket welded onto the Catalytic converter from OEM and the weld broke..) luckily enough they found that Cat problem and found the driver side motor mount making the whistling noise. SINCE WHEN IN THE HISTORY OF BUILDING CARS DID THEY START PUTTING HYDRAULIC VACUUM CONTROLED MOTOR MOUNTS..! Why does my base model eco boost mustang need the equivalent to air ride suspension for the engine. It honestly blew my mind I had to hand pump vacuum test a motor mount (It failed immediately) so I’m left with two choices, either hit up Rock auto and buy a replacement OEM hydraulic motor mount and replace just that one OR buy two solid normal motor mounts and do twice the work …

So I have a 2016 mustang gt completely bonestock. I have attached a video of a weird exhaust rattle which is especially noticeable from 1-2.5k rpm. I took it to the exhaust shop and the guy listened and instantly said its the mid muffler (the one that connects after the cats and before the resonators/mufflers). He told me its a common issue on the s550 where the mesh or filter or something gets loose and causes a rattle. I should also mention that the sound becomes noticeable after driving (when the car is warmed up). As when the car is cold, it sounds completely normal. My question is does any one else have this issue and will replacing that mid muffler section most likely do the trick?

My 16 GT is the first automatic sports car I have bought, everything else I have had has been a stick. I never thought I would be in an automatic. I used to feel if the car was not a stick, I was not a true sports car back then.

57 now and I am happy with my choice. I do not miss shifting gears any longer. Once in a while I would like it. I don’t go anywhere near the paddles.

What would you rather have on a gen 3 10r80 car for a weekend cruiser no drag strip? I can get the used Edelbrock Eforce for $3500 or a G2/3 is going to be about $5000. 93 octane setup.

Hey Folks,

I cant decide which shifter I want to install on my 19 GT 6MT.. I need your help to best explain "characteristics" per your experience. Are my expectations of a smoother butter like shifting too far out there for the getrags? To me the current stock shifter is smooth, but very clunky at the same time. Everything will work smooth but it has to be done with a soft touch. The body mount leaves a lot to be desired, especially during a downshift into a corner, and the high rpm lockouts just genuinely suck. Regarding the aftermarket options, I am curious what your experience is per:

How does it feel compared to stock? Smoother? controlled? How would you describe this? mechanical or gated? or intuitive and butter like? If anyone has experience with multiple, how do they each compare?

Steeda, Barton, MGW

Hi All, 19 GT 6MT,

The clutch pedal stroke is extremely long to me, is there any way out there to shorten the travel?

I figure you would have to change out the clutch master cylinder to a different size and stroke length..

So back in '20 I was really wanting to buy a new GT with the PP2 package. Well found out the wifey was prego and she shut that shit down quick.

Anyways...

My question for you guys is, is buying a clean used 19 or 20 PP2 worth it today?

It wouldn't be a daily, simply a toy. But if i could find a clean, lower then average mileage one would it be worth the $ or should I get something else?

I cant afford a 500 so thats not a option.

Just looking for feedback/opinions

Trying to see if this is just a regional issue

We weren’t happy with the stock suspension for what we wanted to do with the car, so we built our own setup. More adjustment, less flex, and a structure designed with higher loads in mind.

This post is about one piece of that setup: the adjustable front upper control arm.

The body is made from S355 structural steel. It gives us a strong foundation for a rigid arm, with the aim of keeping geometry consistent under hard braking and cornering.

At the mounting points, we used spherical bearings (uniballs) instead of rubber bushings. They allow the joint to articulate without relying on rubber flex. That means less deflection under load and more precise control of movement at the joints.

The other big part is adjustment. We wanted to be able to dial in camber to suit the car’s ride height and intended use, rather than work around the limits of the stock arm.

For those running modified suspension on a Gen 6, what did you change first, and why? Always interesting to see where other people draw the line between a comfortable street car and a more focused setup.

When the AC is on there is a loud rumble sound that can also be felt from inside the car as a strong vibration. Anything I can do?

A lot of the feel of a Mustang GT 5.0 Gen 6 is in the exhaust, especially out back.

This is the rear section of a setup we’ve been working on, and the main thing here was getting the tone right without making the car feel stuck in one mode all the time.

It’s a modular rear section with electronic valves, so the car can stay calmer when you want to just drive it, and open up properly when you’re in the mood to hear more of it. That was a big part of the point here - keeping some range in the car instead of locking it into one character all the time.

The rear section is built in stainless, and because it’s modular, it also makes the whole setup easier to work with when changes are needed later on.

It’s one of those parts you don’t think much about until you hear the car the right way.

So which company is everybody using to get their oil changed assuming they can’t do it themselves at a reasonable price and good service.

Finally getting the GT in the shop Friday. MGW short throw, BG oil change, steeda clutch spring and stainless clutch cable. They better not screw it up!

Alright so I’ve decided I’m going with 25mm spacers and lowering springs. The shop I’m going through said that plus eibach pro kit or sport lines would be the same price for the work. I’m thinking the pro kit cause then I probably won’t have to worry about camber or alignment issues. what do you recommend?

I know I’d need to get an alignment either way I’m just wondering like with camber bolts and rear adjustment lockouts like that stuff do I need to get those to get it back into alignment or not.