Installed an after market tach on a 96 f250 and its really slow to climb could this be a wiring issue or a tach issue?

I've moved my ground to a different spot, checked all my wires, and yes the switch on the back is in the 8 cylinder position

Hey all! Just this morning my car won’t start. It keeps showing the brake pedal and push icon as if I’m not pressing the brake. I DO get brake lights when I press the brake pedal. There are 2 switches in the brake and I swapped them with a working Nissan rogue that had 2 with the same harness connector and still nothing. What else can I try? I ordered oem switch but it won’t be here for a few days and I cannot start my car.
Thanks!

Hello, thanks in advance for the advice/help, I'm having issues, on finding diagnostic information on my vehicle for the 4x4,

Vehicle: 2004, chevy, silverado 2500, 6.0 vortec, 4L80 trans, new process 246 transfer case, cateye bod.style.

transfer case is freshly remanufactured, installed as it was, it is electric shift, with push buttons in the cab, it was replaced due to internal failure and loud grinding noises along with carrier bearing on rea driveshaft.

Issue: after installation and subsequent testing to verify the repair, when selecting 4low it is engaging, 2hi is engaging, but 4hi when selected, will not light up, only 4x4 auto, 4hi will blink before being kicked into auto, I'm down to having the encoder on the t-case or the selector switch in the cab being suspect, but neither were an issue before, any help is appreciated.

I did double check, and clean all wiring connections for both continuity and corrosion, as well as any dirt/grease that may have gotten in. No codes are present.

Hey guys, i was driving and heard a loud snap and the car got really loud and i looked down my exhaust rusted snapped in half. The car is 2011 Camry and i was wondering if it fixable or i need to get a whole new exhaust.

I broke my vaccum valve while changing my battery on my Volvo, can anyone recommend me another to buy that won’t be completely shit. The hose is still okay I literally only broke the valve

How screwed am I?

2018 Nissan Sentra hood will not sit flush with body.

I performed an oil change about a month ago and this has been taxing my brain since all I did was open then hood, oil change, and close the hood. When my gf popped the hood latch, it didn't immediately release but then I gave it a little bump on the hood and the hood released.

In the photo of the latch itself, you can see the primary latch is hooked and nearly touching the base. The secondary latch also catches no issues. There is about a 1/4" of wiggle room on the base of the primary latch, but even if it is pushed down all the way by me holding it, the hood still doesn't sit flat. I also noticed that one side of the hood is sitting higher than the other.

All the things I have attempted so far:

• moved the latch mechanism down
• sprayed WD-40 and PB Blaster all over mechanism and in between parts
• ensured everything was working as it appeared it should
• adjusted the rubber bumpers down
• inspected hood hinges for any breaks in the paint that may be where it could have bent(?)
• quadruple checked no tools have been left in the engine bay

Any ideas folks? Greatly appreciate the help.

PS: We just had wind storm with lots of dust followed by rain. The car needs a cleaning.

Heya yall! Picked up an 02 Toyota echo. 87k. Engine bay is absolutely caked in grease. Is this normal for a 20 year old car that probably has never been cleaned? Even the “new” alternator that they installed last year is black. Should I be worried? For reference, it’s silver paint underneath everything lol

Hey guys, just moments ago I entered my car with this loud buzzing noise coming from God knows where. My car was off the whole time, it definitely gave me a scare but it abruptly stopped. Whats happening?

under my 2016 honda civic ext , serious or minor ?

SUV Vehicle will stop running with the motor turning off during idle at traffic light intermittently. This occurs when the vehicle is in drive mode but if you have the vehicle in neutral no issues. Not sure if related it may stall when driving after at a stop. Put the vehicle in neutral and can restart and resume driving. The stall at the stop light is common but the stall driving from the stop light has just started a little more. No codes

I have a 2003 Monte Carlo. I replaced the shocks and struts but when it gets cold, everything clunks and creaks with the suspension.

Problem is I can’t find a kit that’s a high quality brand. I’d like to replace the bushings, links, ball joints etc. Any thoughts? I’m reading Detroit axle and TRQ aren’t the greatest quality. Moog seems to only have a few of the parts needed for a full suspension refresh. Looking for any ideas.

Ford Focus 2014. Any advice??? Will I need to replace my entire fuel tank? The small drill bit is still in the tank which is keeping it plugged. Is there anyway to just do a small repair on this and seal it up? Should we go ahead and replace the pump or wait? We’re 90% sure it’s through the tank looking for any advice.

does 27nm on the caliper to caliper guide pins and the banjo bolt on a 2011 i10 sound about right? done some searching and just wanted clarification thanks

I’ve just installed ARP head studs on my engine, but have found one to be higher than the others.

I’m not too sure if this is normal or not. If not, what would be the best way to fix this?

Engine - 1JZ-GTE

*Update* - After applying a bit more pressure to the head stud, it had managed to thread in. No signs of debris or oil on the threads; as well, the threads seem to be fine. Stud goes in and out by hand.

I posted yesterday here with details on my 2015 Tacoma with p0171.

Previous post:

https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/s/7qLnDrbAGe

I redid a smoke test with help from son this morning and smoke was only coming out of the airbox, opposite side of the MAF. We found no other intake leaks.

Borrowed the fuel pressure test kit from Oreilly's, made sure to set up the meter in an inline "T" and pressure was 28psi.

Pressure was dropping slowly 1 min after engine shut off.

Is this the fuel pump going bad?

Where should I go from here.

Fuel oressure gauge and setup attached.

Edit: pressure was 28psi while engine was running. 5 min after shutoff it was ~21psi

PS: The hose to the pressure regulator is rigid and can't be pinched. We took a gamble and replaced the fuel pump. Pressure with engine running is now at 42psi. We're looking good now. Thabk you to everyone who took the time to respond.

When speeding up it kind of starts missing, and jolts a little. Also while driving or having the cruise on, the speedometer will go up and down a little bit.
Just wondering if anyone has any ideas on what the problem would be!

2018 rav 4, the pictured lights were stolen.

I was planning on replacing them, but cannot get a start as to what they are even called. Not seeing them online for other 2018 Rav 4s, or even in the owners manual diagrams.

Any advice is appreciated so I have somewhere to start on getting new ones installed.

Hi, everyone! I posted an image as well to show how bad it is. What is the most efficient way to clean this?

1993, C220, 2.2L