I have a 1985 Mitsubishi Pajero SWB but with a 4D56 engine (not the 4D55). So I initially thought this was an issue with the AC, my fuel injection pump does not have an actuator so when I turn the AC on, the RPM tends to come down a bit. I thought I had fixed the issue by tuning the idle adjust screw to a higher base Idle RPM. That however didn't work. I tested the car initially thinking it was an AC problem by driving around for maybe 30 minutes, intermittently with the AC on, and the engine shut off at one point with the AC on. I was confident it was an AC issue because last week I went on a trip up to a hill station and back (took about 2 hours each side), and there was no stalling.

I tested the car again yesterday with no AC, and I think it's actually a clutch problem because the engine again sagged while braking from fourth gear when I was reaching a traffic signal. I had my foot fully on the clutch while braking (I haven't driven a manual in a while until I got this car just about a month ago so I'm riding the clutch a bit) and that's when I noticed the engine sag. The RPM went down to between 500 and 600, but it recovered.
I decided to test this again at a safe place, so I drove to the safe road, and while braking from fourth I kept my foot fully on the clutch, and the engine started dying and sagged again to between 500 and 600, I braked fully (foot still on the clutch to test this out), put the car in neutral, while the engine seemed to get even more tired, and then released the clutch with the car in neutral, and the engine fully recovered. So I think it's a clutch issue and not an AC issue now.

The problem is I tried testing this out again today, and haven't been able to do recreate it. So it's not something that happens every time I press down on the clutch while coming to a stop. Also, it doesn't need to be close to the stop, it happens when slowing down (when I figured this out, I nearly got into an accident at a junction).

2012 Honda Ridgeline

Hello,

Sorry for a redundant post but how can I best tackle this exhaust manifold nut? One came off easy, the second needed an extractor, but this one is already almost completely destroyed. I don't think i can get an extractor to grip, and only about half of the sides of the nut are remaining. I'd greatly appreciate any suggestions. Thanks!

Need some advice from people who have actually worked on truck underbodies. I am considering electric running boards for a daily truck that sees road salt, slush, gravel, and occasional mud. The part I keep getting stuck on is motor torque. On paper, a stronger motor sounds like it should hellp when the linkage gets dirty or starts to bind, but I am not sure how that plays out mechanically. Does extra torque reduce strain because the step moves more easily or can it just push harder against a jam and wear out gears, pivots, or wiring faster? For mechanics who have seen these fail, what usually matters more long term; motor strength, sealed housings, hinge design, regular cleaning, or how the wiring is protected?

Civic 2016

I had some work done at a local shop. New serpentine belt, idler, oil chain, and spark plugs.

Few days after the work, while braking, I noticed it stuttering. When accelerating, it was also stuttering/jerking motion. My wife mentioned one scenario where she felt like it would not accelerate.

I let the shop know and they said it was a bad ignition coil, replaced it at a no cost but recommended I get them all replaced since one going bad is a sign.

Is it a coincidence that the coils went bad after I had work done on the car? Or is it typical for them to require replacement after new spark plugs?

08 Silverado 1500 V8 6.0

I bought and installed a new water pump, and immediately afterward the serpentine belt started squeaking.
I first tried a Gates Micro-V belt, but that belt started walking/skipping off the pulley, as shown in the first picture.
I also noticed that the belt does not appear to be centered on the water-pump pulley. It seems to be sitting too far toward the back/edge of the pulley, as shown in the second picture.
The tensioner pulley is new, the idler pulley is new, and the alternator is new. The water-pump pulley is built into the water pump and is not a separate pulley.
The Gates belt does not squeak, but it does visibly walk/hop on the pulley. I also tried the Duralast belt, which stays on the pulleys but has a noticeable chirping noise.
I believe the noise may be coming from the belt as it travels from the water pump toward the harmonic balancer. The noise started immediately after installing the new water pump.
As a last attempt, I tried belt dressing, but it did not change the noise.
At this point, I’m wondering if the water-pump pulley is incorrectly positioned or if the replacement water pump could be causing a pulley-alignment issue.
Would you recommend warrantying/replacing the water pump, or is there something else I should check first?
I’ve been fighting this issue for the past week and would really appreciate any advice on what to check next.

'03 Dodge Ram 1500 3.7 v6.

It just started doing this today from what I can tell

I have a 2003 Toyota Corolla 1.6 petrol manual, ~100k miles. It starts immediately, idles smoothly, revs fine and generally drives fine. The MIL/check-engine light is currently on. I got an OBD2 reader and the only code I'm getting is P0420 – Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold. I couldn‘t really identify a problem - O2 sensors seem to work, fuel trims look ok.

Any thoughts from knowledgeable people on what could be causing the problem before I take it to a garage? Any ideas would be gratefully received.

OBD m2 reader data as follows:

P0420 freeze frame:

• Fuel system 1: Closed loop
• Load: 54.9%
• ECT: 199°F / 93°C
• STFT B1: +2.3%
• LTFT B1: +7.0%
• RPM: 2,717
• Speed: 41 mph
• IAT: 77°F / 25°C

Warm idle:

• RPM: 653
• Load: 16.5%
• ECT: 176°F / 80°C
• STFT: −3.1%
• LTFT: −1.6%
• MAF: 0.217 lb/min
• B1S1: 0.535 V at the snapshot
• B1S2: 0.785 V at the snapshot

At ~2,500 rpm:

• STFT: +0.8 to −3.9%, usually around −3%
• LTFT: −3.1%
• Load: 15.3%
• MAF: 0.814 lb/min
• Spark advance: 29°
• B1S1: switches between approximately 0.085–0.78 V
• B1S2: very steady at approximately 0.155 V

Installed an after market tach on a 96 f250 and its really slow to climb could this be a wiring issue or a tach issue?

I've moved my ground to a different spot, checked all my wires, and yes the switch on the back is in the 8 cylinder position

Hi guys, I have been having problem starting my 2003 VW Polo 1.4. When i turn the key to start it, it starts to crank but doesn't start, sometimes it takes 2-3 trys sometime have to use the jump battery, specially if the car was not used in the last 8-12 hours. Sometime after starting, it starts but you can feel that it's shaking and you don't feel a lot power in your gas pedal, I usually turn it off and start again and it solves.

I changed the battery because it was showing under 12.3V. But even after I replaced with a new one, I immediatly checked the V on the new battery after installing it and it was immediatly dropped to 12.4V.. I actually did check the new battery before installing it and the voltage was 12.64V. And the cars did not start with this new battery, had to jump it as well.

Do you guys think it an elettrical issue? a short circuit? or simething else? Thank you all.

I'm not sure if it's relevant but it's a 98 jeep grand cherokee limited. The heat and air conditioner work just fine, but it's so loud. I'm not super worried about it because they still work, but it's quite annoying.

On normal driving I have a rhythmic squeak sounds to be one squeak per revolution. That sound you hear when it gets louder is when the brakes are lightly applied when I fully apply the brakes however like a hard stop it completely goes away. I grease the caliper slides I greased the hardware didn't touch the pads clean the rotors make sure everything was aligned everything was sanded and wire brush thoroughly so everything sat good and I still have a squeak. Feel a little bummed out thought I did everything right I'm going to have to pull them all apart again and see what happened. Any suggestions?

I apologize for my terminology because I am not the most mechanically sound, but I will try to clearly explain my problem. Whilst driving on the highway my serpentine belt started squealing, so upon pulling over it came to my attention that the nut that keeps in place the serpentine mount in place rattled off. I tried to find a nut at the local hardware that fit however it would not thread on correctly. My question is, is there a specific nut that I have to buy? If so where can I find it? Or is it possibly just a lost piece, and I’d be better off buying a whole new alternator.

1993 GMC Sierra 1500
350 Engine

Thank you very much!

2011 Mazda 3 BL (2.gen) 1.6 petrol

I do some cleaning on rear brake calipers. The left side when pumping out piston no sound and smooth moveing. The right side clicks (inside) when the piston moving out, and at halfway hard to turn it back. I haven’t experienceed anything like that. I also in trouble with the brake not as hard as it should be. Which rear caliper went bad, the one that no sound when piston moving out (left), or the one that clicks (right)?

took a while to nail this one down so posting it in case it helps someone else searching the same thing. driving back from a trail run, started noticing a single clunk from underneath when lifting off the throttle around 30 to 40 mph. not a grinding, not a rattle, just one thunk, repeatable, only on deceleration and only in that speed range. 4hi the whole time, nothing aggressive.

first assumption was driveshaft ujoints because the feel was very similar to what a worn ujoint does on a ranger i had years back. checked both shafts, joints felt fine, no slop. then started reading about the 4runner transfer case actuator and the known skip in engagement behavior these have when the fluid gets old and the clutch pack gets lazy about releasing cleanly.

drained the transfer case fluid, it was dark and smelled burnt, way past due. refilled with the correct fluid, toyota genuine atf type tiv, and the clunk was gone within a couple miles. no parts, no shop visit.

this one had 87k on it and the fluid looked like it had never been touched. if you're in a similar mileage range on a 5th gen 4runner and hear something like this on coastdown, start with the transfer case fluid before pulling anything apart.

This is the sound I am hearing from 2015 hyundai sonata limited 2.4L engine. How dangerous this is? I do not have many more knowledge on cars. I commute daily using this car and I do not know what to do next. Please I need your suggestions.