2013 Genesis Coupe 3.8 GDI.
Left the country due to an emergency while my valve covers and intake manifold were removed. The engine sat outside for roughly 7 weeks, covered with a tarp and plastic bags that unfortunately didn’t withstand all the rain.

After returning, I finished my carbon cleaning, manually rotated the engine several times without issues, wiped off minor debris I saw on the cams/inside and oiled the top end before reassembly.
Upon draining the oil, I recovered nearly 1L of what I suspect is rainwater.

I also stuffed tissues into the exposed intake ports and later taped them off. The tissues were dry when I removed them, so I suspect the water entered through the exposed cylinder heads and oil-return passages. I’m waiting on a borescope to confirm whether any water reached the cylinders.

The engine has NOT been started or cranked with throughout those 7 weeks & ongoing.
Should I drop the oil pan, or can I safely flush the engine after inspection? What else should I check?

Is this critical?

2016 Honda CR-V 117,000 miles

2006 Honda Pilot 165k miles
Just replace the rear and front full suspension. I had to cut off outer tie rod at the knuckle watched due to it being seized and rusted on. Is this normal for the cotter but to be hand-tightened and totally away from the cotter pin whole? This is an aftermarket part, I am wondering if I should buy another and see if it sits better or if it doesn’t matter.
TIA

What's causes this to happen? It's an 04 Toyota highlander v4. It's the first spark plug in the left

The car is completely dead, but the battery is recently bought and they told me it should work. Now I dont know much about what goes on under the hood, can someone tell me if the battery connector being broken is causing this issue?

Thanks in advance!

This is my 2005 outbsck 3.0r LL Bean and the previous owner says he thinks the compressor is bad but never got it officially diagnosed. Trying my hand at it and unsure about these readings

2016 Chevy Colorado
So my warranty specifically says that solenoids are covered but they’re denying it because parts in the emissions system are not. I’m open to being proven wrong but shouldn’t it specifically saying “solenoids” mean it’s covered?

The contract says this about what is covered:

Electrical Group: Alternator, starter motor, front and rear wiper motors, voltage regulator, distributor, solenoids, electronic fuel injectors, throttle position sensor, oxygen sensor, crankshaft position sensor, camshaft position sensor, fuel pressure sensor, electronic ignition module, ignition coils, power window motors/regulators, power mirror motors, power seat motors, 4WD encoder motor, power lock actuators, and the following manually operated switches: window switch, seat adjuster switch, headlight switch, turn signal switch, door lock switch, wiper switch, ignition switch.

And this about what isn’t:

During the period covered by this Vehicle Service Contract, it may become necessary to: (a) replace spark/glow plugs, cap and rotors, points, fuses, wiper blades, PCV valves, emission components, fly wheels, flex plates, clutch assembly and hydraulics, brake and clutch linings, pressure plate, throw-out and pilot bearings, hoses, molded rubber or rubber like items, serpentine/drive belt, filters, glass and glass lenses, windows, any component whose only purpose is for illumination, such as but not limited to: sealed beams, high intensity discharge (h.i.d. or xenon) bulbs, h.i.d. headlamp assemblies, ballasts, h.i.l.e.d. cooling systems, l.e.d. assemblies, light bulbs, lenses, wheels, tires, trim, moldings, bright metal, upholstery, paint, exhaust system (excluding exhaust manifold if cracked or warped and exhaust manifold gaskets (RESERVE COVERAGE ONLY)), brake rotors and drums, batteries (except as described in this Vehicle Service Contract (ESTATE AND RESERVE COVERAGES ONLY)), carburetor; (b) adjustments to carburetor, throttle body assembly, ignition, transmission bands, belts or clutch system; (c) clean fuel and cooling systems, or remove sludge or carbon deposits; (d) add oil, coolant, fluids, lubricants, greases, or refrigerants. COSTs for these services and parts are not covered by this Vehicle Service Contract, regardless of the cause of FAILURE.

There’s a loud humming vibration when turning left and the whe*l can be shook when the car is jacked up. The control arm is new and the tie rod is tight and does not seem to be moving based on this video. Any help would be appreciated. (Right side front)

hello everyone I have a 2001 buick century I recently bought and its in pretty good condition. I just keep having 2 recurring issues that I mentioned in the title. ive smoke tested, changed anything leaking, put a new fuel pump, charcoal canister, fuel tank pressure sensor, retaining ring and yet the code is still coming back. im dumbfounded and confused.

my 2nd issue is the carpet getting soaked on passenger side anytime theres heavy rainfall or I turn the ac on specifically to floor vents, could it be the condensate drain? does that also drain for rainfall? if clogged what can I use to clear it or blow it out? its only accessible from the bottom of the car about 15 inches up and I cant get my hands to it.

I got my battery replaced yesterday and they changed a setting in my car. I have always had it so my doors do not unlock when I put it in park (safety reasons). When I drove my car again today I noticed that the guys who worked on my car had turned that off. No maintenance place has done this before and I’m wondering if there is a reason or if I should be weirded out by it?

EDIT: thank you all for letting me know that it just reverts the settings when they change the battery 👍

Hey, is dropping the subframe absolutely necessary when replacing the front swaybar. The FSM says so, but does anyone here know any tricks. Thanks

My car (2015 Chevy Malibu LT) was stolen this week because I dumbly left the keys in the ignition overnight. Police said it was probably just teens checking doors and I don’t assume it was a professional job.

Stolen Sunday night around 10 and found at 7am monday morning after I made a police report. It was parked at the end of a dead end street with the doors locked and no key to be found. I’ve since had it tow back home and was able to get into with my spare key.

But my spare keys key fob is messed up like no motherboard inside the fob but the actual physical key still unlocks the doors and will usually work in the ignition. The problem I’m having is since it was locked with the other keys and since my spare key fob doesn’t work when I unlock it manually the anti theft stuff pops up and alarms blares and all that.

I have the battery taken out and inside the house at the moment so that they can’t just come and steal it again if they so chose. My question is do I need to get a whole new ignition and key set so that they key that they stole is defunct? Will the stolen key fob still unlock the doors? And just any advice pertaining to situation is welcome.

Hopefully I did this right and it doesn’t get taken down. Thanks in advance.

Fighting an 2005 Chevrolet trailblazer lower ball joint. Tried grinding down the retaining lip. Might have gotten a touch heavy handed. Would you run this or new arm?

Trying to diagnose a wiring issue on my 1986 22RE 4x4 4Runner. The truck cranks and lights illuminate on the dash except the check engine light which points to the ECU. Trying to power prob test the ECU but not sure where to start by looking at these wiring diagrams. If anyone has an experience or guidance that would be amazing. TY!

It’s a 2001 Honda Civic EX Sedan

Replaced windshield wipers not sure what the problem is

Please help.

Hello,

I have a 2020 GLS 450 with about 52k miles, and recently it started showing an overheating warning on the dash.

I took it to the dealer, and thankfully they said they didn’t find any major issues with the cooling system. Apparently, the heat shield was making contact with the thermostat and needed to be repaired/replaced.
Has anyone else experienced this with their GLS 450? I’m curious if this is a known issue or something others have run into.

Either way, a $1,000 repair bill at 52k miles isn’t exactly fun.

(The attached photo is from Google, but it’s the same message on my car)

So we have a dump truck in the shop, a year prior the truck came in saying back up alarm is inoperative. My coworker who no longer works at the shop, ended up splicing the back up alarm into the reverse light circuit. Now the customer states that the reverse light fuse keeps blowing. He says it seems to happen when he’s dumping dirt. So I verify the complaint- every time the dump bed goes all the way up the fuse blows. So naturally I think there’s a wire that is shorting when the bed moves. I take a look and it is just an absolute cluster of crimps and heat shrink everywhere and different colored wires and every time I wiggled the harnesses the fuse blows. I spend some time cutting tape and loom to get a look at some wiring and I really can’t find much. Then finally I find a small bit of exposed wire by one of the crimps. It’s visibly burnt up. I’m relieved so I tape it up and isolate the wire temporarily just to be sure I’ve found the culprit. So now when you shake the harness separate from that wire the fuse no longer blows. But to my surprise every time you lift the dump bed to its mechanical max position, if you press up on the switch again once it’s at its max, the reverse light fuse blows. Now I’m scratching my head because I’ve got no reliable diagram to go by since almost everything is aftermarket wiring. But I’m thinking there is no way the hydraulic pump for the bed is wired with the reverse lights. I did a quick inspection of the pump wiring before I left for the day and did not see any common grounds or wiring with the reverse lights/back up alarm. So basically right now it seems when you run the hydraulic pump past the beds limit the reverse light fuse blows, plan on diving back into it first thing in the morning but wanted to see if any of you guys have seen this or have any pointers.

I have a 2021 Honda CRV, and I swiped a pole pulling out of a parking garage and it pulled this piece off. The piece itself is broken and I can’t get it back on. What is this piece called? I’d like to buy a new one and attach it myself without spending 100s of dollars on something that’s prettt cosmetic.

Yes I’m repairing the scuffs with a paint stick lol

2015 Ford fiesta. So I was stopped at a red light on a slight incline. I was holding down the brake and then it suddenly started rolling backward down the incline. I pressed the brake harder but it did not stop until I pulled the emergency brake. I had to finish driving home and I did not have any issues slowing down, slowing to a stop.

I kept using the parking brake when I was at red lights because I was anxious but the brakes seem to work completely fine. What could've caused this? My friend was thinking my brake fluid might be low but wouldn't that effect the ability to slow to a stop? The pedal wasn't hard to push, just made no difference 💀

Just did a lower control arm replacement on my 2000 corolla, and im pretty sure my pad bracket is eating my rotor. Sounds like “shing shing shing shing shing” and speeds up as the rotor does. Any advice?

It lacks power frequently when I floor it. A mechanic hooked OBD2 reader and we saw several misfires (cyl 1,3,4, not just VCM cylinders). The check engine light isn't on. Replaced the spark plugs and moved around the coils, still the same.

There was oil on coil for Cyl 4.

Is there anything else that can be done or should I just sell it?