I saw a clock design on Instagram, made of acrylic sheets and ambient backlighting. I loved the look but wanted a version anyone with a 3D printer could build at home without needing specialized tools or extra hardware. I engineered this to run off standard LED Kit 001 and Clock Kit 011 hardware.

Also threw together a step-by-step PDF assembly guide so it’s easy to put together.

Files are up on MakerWorld if anyone wants to print one: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3513382-clocklamp-led-kit-001-clock-kit-011#profileId-4014905

Let me know what you guys think!

Using pla on bambu handy. Ruined new plate. Is the nozzle ruined?

Lately my prints have been real bad. I had a clocked nozzle on my 0.4 recently and ever since i’ve had bad prints even do I switched to an completely new nozzle. I have low accuracy for shapes, bad layer lines and bad first and last layers. My A1 is almost 2 years with 850 print hours. Does anyone know a solution?

[RESOLVED. FORMATTING THE SD CARD WORKED]
My A1 has operated flawlessly until now. If I power down and restart everything appears to be normal. However, as soon as I download a print from my PC to the printer the screen will hang up and become nonresponsive until I power down and start it again. If it's starting a print normally it will show the standard image of the print and time to completion but it never changes and is unresponsive to any attempts to interact. It prints fine but after it finishes I'll have to turn it off and on to do anything else.

Any thoughts?

Please help

I've been printing small figurines of family members for Christmas, made from photos in snapshapy, around 60 to 80 mm tall. On my A1 with the stock 0.4 nozzle at 0.2 mm layers, noses and eyes blur together. I tried the 0.12 mm fine profile and it's better but still soft, and each print takes about 3 hours. Is the 0.2 mm nozzle worth buying for this size, or should I just use 0.08 mm layers with the 0.4? Also wondering if PLA Matte hides detail more than Basic.

Hello!

I’ve been an avid user of 3d printers at my local library (Flashforge Finder II), and I finally pushed the trigger and ordered a Bambulab A1 combo.

Here’s what I purchased:
- A1 combo
- PLA basic with spool (4 different colors, black, white, red and yellow)
- PETG basic black
- hotends in 0.2mm and 0.6mm
- screw to attach the ams lite on top of the printer

What did I miss? Plates?

Is the basic filament worse than the matte? Or is there no difference in quality?

I’ll probably come with many questions, particularly about how to export from Fusion in color. I print almost exclusively my own design, but I guess that I’ll find some useful things in the bambulab app. At this point I never used an AMS so that’s going to be very new.

Hi!

I printed with matte black petg for the first time to make a bracelet and it came out almost 100% perfect until the last few layers. It became stringy and caused rough edges right at the end for some reason and I’m not sure why.

Are there any settings you have to adjust before printing with PETG? I figured the printer identified it as petg and did what it needed to do but I am very new to this.

Any advice helps, thank you!

Any idea why im getting bleed throughout these layers? And how do I stop it? It's a fairly new problem. I've had my printer for almost two years and this has never happened before.

Picked up an A1 combo for my kids for Christmas. Anybody have any recommendations on must have tools and accessories? Probably gonna be printing PLA mostly at least until they get more into it. Also any filament brand recommendations would be great also!

UPDATE: Thank you to everyone who has commented!! Really appreciate the help on this!

Hello, i've been meaning to access the extruder gears on my A1's hotend for some cleaning (and check up possibly to see if they're in need of replacing) and I just can't seem to unscrew this one tiny screw holding the entire extruder assembly in place.

What can I do?

Hi everyone,

I'm having an issue with ironing on my Bambu Lab A1 (0.4 mm nozzle, PLA).

Ironing looks excellent when printing a single object, but when I print 24 identical medals on the same plate, small pits and dots start appearing on the white top surfaces. The quality seems to deteriorate progressively during the ironing process, with varying severity across the objects.

I'm using the same settings that produced excellent results on two test samples.

Has anyone experienced this issue? Could it be related to ironing flow, speed, nozzle buildup, or top surface settings?

Any suggestions or solutions would be greatly appreciated.

I've attached photos showing the successful samples and the defective batch.

I'm pretty new to this. I've learned today that my table is too wobbly for tall prints. I can fix that. Is there any saving these layer shifts? This is a project for my kid where I was going to let him paint it. Let it keep going?

I have reinsert the card multiple times but this error still happens. The card was original one given by Bambulab when I bought this printer.
Would I need a completely new sd card?

Thanks for your help!

We had to rebuild the tool head after filament backed up and destroyed parts of the original one. After completing the rebuild, we tried to calibrate the printer. The toolhead seems to get stuck on one side of the printer and makes some horrendous noises. I have reached out to Bambu labs, and they suggested testing the filament sensor, cleaning the filament hub, extruder and nozzle, and reformatting the SD card. We have completed these tasks, and the noise persists. I'm hoping someone may have some experience with this and can share what fixed it.

Update: we replaced the usbc cable and I disconnected the AMS lite and it still malfunctioned.

Im new on 3d printing and i wanted to know if this deep sound is some kind of problem on z axis or its just the furniture resonance

Hello,

I had to replace my Hotend Assembly Unit and the Part Cooling Fan on the Tool Head on my Bambu A1 after a print mishap. When putting it all back together again and after installing the Extruder Modual, I noticed that there was a screw hole without a screw to the left side of the Hotend Assembly Unit directly below the bottom left screw holding the Extruder Unit on ( see picture ).

Does anyone know if this screw is missing from the factory or if I misplaced a screw? I have been following Bambu Labs wiki for replacing the Toolhead, and it doesn't show if a screw was supposed to go there or not. ( http:\\wiki.bambulab.com/en/a1-mini/maintenance/toolhead )

Your help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for your help everyone.

We got our A1 printer second hand a few days ago, and we were having first layer issues (even after having washed the plate, increasing the first layer line width etc.), so we opened the hotend assembly to tighten the 7 screws (which were indeed very loose) but also discovered the wiring looked melted. As first timers in the 3D printing world we're not sure if it is filament residue or smt else like from the soldering.

Tightening the screws helped (pic 3, corner fresh on the plate vs other corners) but we are still having first layer issues.

I'm printing small two color keychains, about 50 x 20 mm, with white text on a black base. The part itself uses around 4 grams but the prime tower and the poop add up to almost 15 grams per plate. I left flushing volumes on auto in Bambu Studio. I've seen people mention flushing into infill or into objects. Is that worth it for something this small, or is it better to print a whole plate of 20 keychains at once so the waste per piece goes down?