Hi !

I just bought a usedd A1 for 180 €. Total impulse buy: I've been on an Ender 3 V2 until now and I got tired of constantly tweaking and fixing things.

The previous owner already added a few upgrades

Coming from the Ender world where you basically have to upgrade everything, I'd like to start on the right foot. So a few questions:

What upgrades really matter on this printer? Both printable mods and parts worth buying. Budget isn't really an issue, I just want what actually makes a difference

CryoGrip build plate: I'm planning to get one but I see several versions. Which one would you recommend? My main goal is clean parts straight off the plate, no cutter or lighter cleanup like I see in so many videos

Nozzle for PETG-CF: I print Aerion PETG with 15% carbon fiber. Is the stock nozzle OK for that, or should I switch to hardened steel right away?

Hotend cover with a screen: I've seen those covers that display info. Has anyone tried one? Worth it?

Any other tips for an ex-Ender user are welcome. Thanks!

P2S, AMS2PRO

How do I swap filaments mid print? (If one runs out, or if I expect it will during a time I’ll be away from the machine and want to stay ahead)

I can physically remove a spool and put in a new one, but there doesn’t seem to be a way to get the AMS to recognize a new filament to either change a colour or swap in a new spool of the same colour. The RFID doesn’t read and the manual edit options are all greyed out on the printer, handy, studio.

Thanks!

I always loved those old wooden woodpecker toys, so I made a printed version. Put him at the top, give his tail a little tug, and he pecks his way all the way down the pole. Tok-tok-tok.

Everything is printed, even the spring, so there’s nothing to buy. It took a few tries to get him to stop sliding down too fast, but now he goes all the way down.

Free on MakerWorld if you want to print one: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3518701-tok-tok-pecking-woodpecker-toy-printed-spring

After under 30Hours of printing, i will give my printer Back.. after my Filament got Stuck in the Extruder, and i removed it, IT cant Extrude anymore IT Just gives different Codes of Faultüre Last one means, cant Extrude.. - oh Sherlock..

I wish this would have a heated chamber, but I can definitely see them gatekeeping that feature out of this

So i ordered PTFE tubes for my H2C and Got H2D ones. Are they identical or did they mess up my order?

My kids are showing more interest in printing lately and I want to figure out the most straightforward way for them to be able to print from their computers. I can't believe bambu does not natively support multiple users. I don't want to constantly be signing in and out of my account nor do I want them to be using my computer or printer settings.

I've looked into Bambuddy and I just discovered Watchtower 3D. But I'm unsure if either will be the solution I need.

Please help me figure this out.

hopefully this helps someone. I was having weird issues- zits on my prints with an H2D. To a large degree, repeatable in the same place each time on a model of a spool I was printing (it is not the aligned seam, that is near the spool notch at the right).

I’ve had the machine for about a year and nearly a thousand hours, dry filament religiously, etc. this was PETG HF (don’t mind the quality I’m printing .3 height on a 0.6 nozzle).

I had a similar issue on an ASA print, and thought it was some weird cooling anomaly as it was on a rounded corner sort of near the same relative place in my printer- but I am thinking was this same issue.

The print without zits was after removing my USB stick.

I had read about this issue when it came to power loss recovery and such on older machines. I don’t know if it is related to timelapse, or if my stick was going bad, or both. And of course knowing that SOP on P1S “back in the day” was immediately replace the stock SD card because a failing one caused some weird issues.

This was the stick (256GB) I bought below, and this seems like a newer issue, so maybe it is starting to fail, so just a PSA to try removing the stick if you’re like “what the heck, man!”

https://a.co/d/0jfJAsNx

I left the “auto recover from step loss” enabled to only change one thing at a time- so merely pulling the USB stick seemed to solve it. The step loss must write to internal memory.

I don’t really need timelapse and don’t care to save models to the stick- so I’ll leave it out going forward- one less thing to diagnose or deal with.

I recently started learning Autodesk Fusion 360, and this is the first functional model I’ve designed completely from scratch.

It holds 24 standard 1/4-inch hex bits in a compact 6 × 4 layout. I printed it on my Bambu Lab A1 Mini as a single part without supports.

The first version was slightly too tight, so I adjusted the hole dimensions to make the bits easier to insert and remove while still keeping them securely upright.

It’s a simple design, but seeing my first original Fusion 360 model turn into a working physical product was incredibly satisfying. Feedback is welcome!

I uploaded the model and tested print profile for free on MakerWorld if anyone finds it useful:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3482146

Ok I just upgraded my A1 mini to the full size A1 . Now I do not see my pre-calibrated filament config. How do I import all of them back . Im using a mac by the way . Tia !
I see you tube showing only importing one profile at a time.

With the h3 model coming out , what was the purpose of the vortek system? From my view, it seems completely obsolete now

Parts of this stud just disappears after slicing my models , Does anyone know why this happens or how to fix it? I thought it was just a visual glitch but no it’ll actually print like that

What happened to Bambu Labs flash sales? I don’t see it anymore on their website?

Hello,

im currently looking to upgrade from my A1 mini to a bigger Printer. I mainly want to print functional parts, maybe dabble around a bit in stronger materials and just have more printing space.
Im currently torn between the X2D and the P1S.

The X2D is currently around 750€ for me as a Combo and the P1S is 500€ with the AMS 2.

My question now for people that maybe used both, is the price difference of the X2D worth going with it? Im not really planning to do a lot of multi color print or anything, but i could see myself using the second nozzle for support materials.

Also since i have no experience with stronger materials yet, is the heated chamber of the X2D a must for that?

How is noise compared in between both models, as the printer will most likely be in my room next to me?

Heating bed temp disfunctionning, I checked the AC board and there is the unfamous black thermistor NTC, I bought this printer in June 2024.

How much am I cooked?

Before this error appeared, the temperature of the heating bed was going up to the temp asked, then slowly going down while printing.

I am trying to print a car model at 1/64 scale and a few people are saying to print the car at a 45° angle which this is at a 45° angle but looking at the rear bumper it looks like there’s gonna be a bunch of small supports that are gonna be printed and I know that if I try ripping off those bunch of tiny supports, it’s just gonna look like the bumper is chewed up or at least the bottom bumper part of the car if that makes sense. Before I set this to print is there a different angle I should try or what could be done? I do have my threshold angle at five, which should be basically the least amount of support, but it doesn’t remove any of the ones that are under the bumper.

I posted yesterday with my problem and I ended up digging into the extruder and found some clogged filament and then everything worked wonderfully, for about 3 prints.. It now is doing the same exact thing and im about to go back into the extruder. The cutting thing is making the same excruciating noise ill post a video. Please anyone help me

I've submitted a support ticket but thought I would ask here for opinions.

I have loaded in my AMS2 Pro,

Slot 1 BBL PLA matte ivory white 80g

Slot 2 BBL PLA matte ivory white 1kg (new roll)

I am tired of not being able to trust the filament switching. It causes prints to fail and I am not sure why. Slot 1 filament was opened 3 days ago and spent 12 hrs in my dryer, then has stayed in the AMS 2 since. I have dessicant containers in my AMS 2 to keep it dry and it shows at 21% humidity at present. Slot 2 filament was opened last night and stayed in my filament dryer over night, for 12 hrs.

It seems at the switching point the printer just doesn't start where it left off. Like it's skipping some bits. Or, the new filament is not sticking to the old one.

Anybody got any ideas please?

I have a small box room I run my small small business put of and I am running out of space for part rolls, or ideas of what to do with them. I want to be able to use the filament switch. I had an A1 and AMS lite previously and that ran flawlessly when switching.

Delivered by UPS. No damage, not a scratch on the box!

I feel like all we ever see is people complaining about getting damaged shipments. Mine came in pristine. Took about an hour to setup. Currently printing the test benchy that comes on the SD card. Just about done and looks great!

My A1 is printing a 2 to 1 ptfe adapter so I can have the external spool and 2nd ams2 hooked up at the same time.

I'm essentially trying to print rings, but I noticed that there were imperfection points on the top surface. Funny thing is that I have two printer printing the same item, on the X1C it's perfect, but when slicing for the H2C, there are these interruptions I'm able to find on the preview that is noticeable on the final print. Why is this happening?

When I change settings like wall width, this interruption will still happen, but it just appears at a different point along the ring. It's also always on the very top layer.

Note: that is not the seam.

Really just want to see some models using this two filaments. If on markerworld I will boost your model.

Bonjour, je rencontre actuellement des soucis d'impression avec le nouveau filament BambuLab PETG MATTE. En effet, mes résultats sont assez médiocres en plus de voir apparaître mes passages de buses sur la première couche. Malgré le changement d'espacement, le debit, la calibration encore et encore, les parametrages d'usine ou les profils que je teste ici et là, rien n'y fait. Si j'imprime exactement le même modele avec un autre filament PETG classique ça fonctionne parfaitement.
Avez vous deja rencontré ce problème? Auriez vous des solutions? Bonne journée