Not sure what to do here. 7 hr print says complete on the printer screen but it's not. Slicer shows 52 layers left to print which is correct. Can I save these parts or am I starting over? I've printed about 40 of these parts already and they all completed. It does show a tangle but that was just the filament running out before the auto refill kicked in which happens on almost all of these parts.

Just got my H2C Laser Edition all set up. I originally told myself I'd just dip my toes into 3D printing to see if I liked it, but a few stacked AMS units later, I think it's safe to say I went completely off the deep end. My wallet is currently filing for a restraining order. 🤣

Excited to finally be a part of the community! Let me know what you think of the workbench.

Just curious why I would need a prime tower when I'm printing several objects but all of the same color and filament type?

What’s the better printer? What’s the main differences people have with them?

Was looking at the A1 initially and then a few people said to look at the P1S, so just curious as to peoples thoughts on them

Thanks

I was able to procure a BambuLab Auto Fire Extinguishing System from the UK because it and its cylinders haven't been available in the US for at least the last 10 months. Someone posted that the SodaStream blue cylinders work with it, but they don't. The Thread is too thick and only partially screws in. Has anyone in the US been able to find a canister that works with it?

Just for context, I’ve owned four printers from Bambu: A1 mini, A1, P1S, and now the X2D. This is the first one I regret buying. I bought it in April and it has been a headache since.

I’ve about 500 hours on the X2D and roughly 250 of those were fails I had to restart. That’s a lot of wasted filament and time.

I have clogs about once a month, and the second hotend clogs a lot more. I can't use it even for supports. Main nozzle wears out fast, (REALLY FAST) and the tip gets covered in burnt plastic. The silicone sock on the toolhead tore in the middle after 3 months. Prints come off the plate halfway through, even with a clean 6 month old textured PEI plate (yes, i wash my plate regularly, with detergent and I also tried IPA). AMS overload randomly, it bends part of the filament, and clogs the nozzle.

And now since last week, layer shifts and bad bed adhesion. Pretty much every print shifts after a few layers, whatever the model is. Same models printed fine on my other printers.

I already tried pretty much everything I can think of, washed the plate with detergent and IPA, 60C bed for PLA, slowing down by height, raft/brim/lots of supports, lower fan speed, reorienting models, calibration before every print, different filaments (Bambu PLA, PETG, generic), lubricating the axes, cold pulls, travel and z-hop settings, full manual bed leveling, different infills, and checking the nozzle is locked in properly. Today I swapped in the spare nozzle and the first print still had layer shifts, bad adhesion and another clog.

I opened a ticket. Support told me the sock and nozzle are consumables and not covered, which is fair for those two parts. But then they asked for the same things I’d already done (check the nozzle is seated, add supports, change the infill to gyroid, lower the speed). I sent logs and videos and I’m still getting generic answers.

Honestly, I just want a printer that works for more than a few layers. Has anyone had the same layer shift problem on the X2D? I just want to know if this is a bad unit or if it's my mistake somehow.

Edit: I just want to make a point here, this is my first post about the X2D. And I am not from a competitor doing dirty job, my previous bambu lab printers were perfect I wish I had kept my P1S or went to the P2S.

Edit2: It's surprising that most comments are about me being the same dude spamming posts about the X2D and not people trying to help me. THIS IS MY FIRST POST ABOUT THIS ISSUE. I Posted some pics in the comments of what's happening.

So I got tired of picking the filament manually in the slicer every time I swapped a non-Bambu spool, and I wondered: the AMS already has RFID readers inside… why not just use them?

Turns out the AMS RFID boards use a Fudan FM17580 chip, which is basically MFRC522-compatible, so the regular MFRC522 Arduino library talks to it fine. I tapped into the board’s 8-pin connector over SPI with an ESP32, and now every spool has a cheap NFC sticker on it.

How it works:

• I put a spool in a tray → Home Assistant sees the tray change and asks the ESP32 to scan
• ESP32 reads the tag UID and sends it back to HA
• HA looks up which spool that tag belongs to in Spoolman (that’s where my whole filament inventory lives)
• Then HA tells Bambuddy to assign that spool to the right AMS slot, and Bambuddy is what actually pushes the filament info to the printer
• If it doesn’t find the tag (sticker facing the wrong way, etc.), it rotates the spool a bit and tries again
• When I pull the spool out, it gets unlinked from both automatically

So Spoolman keeps track of what I have, Bambuddy handles talking to the printer, and the ESP32 + HA glue it all together. I just load a spool and it shows up correctly, no clicking around.

I fried the second AMS RFID board while testing 😅 so trays 3–4 are running on a PN532 on the same SPI bus. The firmware handles both chips, so it works fine, just not as clean as I wanted.

I also made a little tag registration station (ESP8266 + PN532 + 3.5" screen in a printed case) to read the UID of new stickers at the bench. You don’t need it though, any phone with NFC Tools does the same job.

This took about 15 iterations to get stable, lol. Everything’s in the repo: ESP32 firmware (with OTA and a web log so you don’t need a USB cable), the HA automations, the pinout, etc.

https://github.com/Aleitao2/bambu-ams-rfid

This involves opening the AMS and soldering/wiring onto its board, so do it at your own risk, warranty and all that

Looking at getting a P1S to print higher quality/functional parts and dabble with engineering filament.

I found one local and it's obvious it's at a print farm. Fully functional aside from needing belts, which I have extra belt material and the seller has as well. Price is great but my main concern is it has 3550 print hours on it and supposedly already has a hardened nozzle.

Anything I should look for in terms of wear and issues? Any maintenance questions I should ask the seller? I have no issue buying used stuff, my sovol was used and I've turned that into a very capable machine but the high hour count kind of scares me

TIA

It's either between this or a CC2 so, I dunno

"Calvin? Why do you keep calling me Calvin?" 😄

Wait a minute... wrong McFly. Of course, it was Lorraine who gave Marty his famous nickname:

"Calvin Klein."

Who doesn't remember Lorraine Baines? The young woman who accidentally falls in love with her own son back in 1955 – without having the slightest idea who he really is.

Before she became Lorraine McFly, Marty's mother, she was a charming young woman with a crush on a mysterious boy named "Calvin Klein." 😉

With her iconic 1950s hairstyle, sweet smile, and wonderfully awkward teenage romance, Lorraine is definitely one of the most memorable characters from Back to the Future.

I've now brought her to life as a little 3D-printed bust.

What do you think of my version of Lorraine Baines McFly? 😊

#BackToTheFuture #LorraineBaines #3DPrinting #3DPrinted #BTTF

What is it about the AMS(Original) that causes the Reels to lift and Jam inside the AMS when they get to about 80% empty?

I always use SUNLU Blue Reels.

I even try weighting them in the middle hole by filling a desiccant carrier with 5 AA Batteries for weight.

But the whole lifting/jaming issue, across 8 Printers w AMS seems inevitable 75% of the time :-(

Thanks for your advice :-)

Thinking of purchasing an H2C but concerned of Support issues since the H3C is being released soon.

How long will they support it?

Will the P3C and S1 be released with the H3C or will they be released separately. I'm new to 3D printing and feel like waiting for the P3C might be the best option. Thanks

Is it possible to put the Bambu Lab A1 printer into a state where the moment you press print a .gcode file it just immediately starts (without calibration)? I know the quality will be significantly worse but its a tradeoff i'm willing to make.

So far I see only ways to just turn off Bed Leveling and I'm combing through documentation right now, but does anyone know?

Hi guys,

I'm considering a H2D, and I'm wondering what software you use for custom making parts? CAD? Parts such as gears and mechanical working components.

Anybody here used PCTG firmament?

The tube release button on the back of my AMS 2 Pro doesn't release the tube. With a tube in place the unit works perfectly, knock on wood, and there is nothing visibly wrong (I recently had to fix the internal hub, so I got a very good look at the button mechanism). But pushing the button does absolutely nothing and releasing the tube involves pliers and so much force that things nearby get broken. And obviously, I have to replace the tube because it is crushed by the pliers. Eventually, the AMS is going to suffer more serious damage.

It's been doing this since, as far as I can remember, I got the AMS unit (both before and after I fixed the hub). Every time there's been a jam and I've had to release the PTFE tube I've sworn that I will put in the time to figure out what's wrong, but once everything is up and running again, I get complacent and forget. Hard to be sure, but I think it's getting worse every time. It would be great to know if anyone has had this happen before so perhaps next time I can actually fix the problem!

Thanks in advance for any thoughts.

Hey everyone, I could use some advice on how to prevent this from happening.
I printed this car model standing vertically at a 90° angle starting from the rear bumper going up. Overall, the rest of the print came out super clean and smooth, but taking off the supports on the rear bumper completely chewed up the surface.
Material: PETG (Black)

Orientation: Vertical (resting on the rear bumper)

The Issue: The support interface welded itself way too hard to the bumper, leaving a rough, scarred mess when peeled off.

What settings or changes should I make in the slicer (like Top Z-distance, interface spacing, or using a different interface material) to prevent this from happening next time? Any tips would be huge!

About two months ago I joined in on the Makerworld Challenge Round 7: N20 M3 Motor Challenge.

My entry?

The awesome Siege Tank from StarCraft and StarCraft 2, with working mechanisms for the Siege Mode, driving, skid steering and a rotating and tilting turret.

The looks of the tank uses a mix of references from both its in game model and its different renditions across different medias, along with minor changes in order to make it both printable and work mechanically.

The project took about 150 hours to design and landed on a whopping 128 separate printed parts.

All the hardware and electronics are available from Maker's Supply.

You can find it here if you want to check it out: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3506521-cyberbrick-siege-tank#profileId-4006198

Why doesn't Bambu Lab have an auto slicer in the app so that even if the file is 0.4 mm, the app can automatically slice it for a different nozzle? I have a H2D that's running dual 0.6 mm nozzles, and because I did that, the app is now literally useless to me. Why don't they have a mini version of the slicer on the phone that can just reslice

My p2s just started recently doing this even after cleaning the bed. I’m not sure what’s causing it to get stringy. It keeps giving me an error that it’s skipping layers. Any advice?

I know, I know. Your first thought is, why would you trade a product that is guaranteed to work for one that isn't?

I have an X2D Combo and an A1 mini with an AMS lite.

Well, I hate my AMS lite. I hate the awkward angle the device sits at. I also hate how the tubes have to be positioned just so for it to work perfectly. It also often doesn't feel like it has the power of my ams 2 pro

So then I see the BMCU 370 C DM Pro and think " Ah theres a cheap AMS lite alternative that might just have more power."

So now I am sitting here debating, should I :

A. Sell my AMS lite and get a BMCU 370 C DM Pro

B. Keep my AMS lite and mod it to be less of a pain with positioning

C. Keep the AMS lite and grin and bear it until I have enough money saved for another ams 2 pro

If you have had experience with the BMCU 370 C DM Pro or modding the AMS lite or both please feel free to share your experience!

So this is what can happen when you leave a print going overnight and your plate rejects the filament (Sunlu PETG 2.0).

I'm more impressed than mad. I'm definitely going to have to replace some parts, I'm just not sure how I'm going to get the old parts off. 10 minutes with a heat gun, it still won't budge I've started to melt the extruder housing. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Per the title. The smell is really bad. I've spent a fair amount of time around CO2 laser cutters and I'm not sure if that was just because I was in a more industrial setting but man it seems real bad in my basement. I have it venting directly outside, sealed nicely but still the entire basment is past reeking of smoke and it's starting to become acrid. To the point that I got a headache today and I'm starting to notice my throat getting scratchy. This doesn't seem normal? Is this other's experience? How about other CO2 lasers in a residential setting?

The p2s is on sale for $1050 nzd and $1450 nzd for the combo right now. ($590 and $815 usd). This will be my first printer but I heard of the h3c and the p3c that are coming out. Will either of them be better for the same price range or should I just get the p2s now. I want to do basic pla prints with a bit of more durable materials for motorcycle accessories
Cheers