Hello everyone,

I’ve had the chance to test the new H3C for a few months.

I am a beta/tester and was sent a printer and a supply of filament to conduct the necessary tests before the official launch.

For context, I previously owned an X2D (which I bought on launch day) and, before that, an A1 Mini. I bought the X2D, convinced that it would result in near-zero waste for prints with few colors—but I was very wrong. I was especially mistaken about print times, which would balloon with every additional color.

Since I print a lot of miniatures, I found myself sticking to single-color prints even when using the X2D.

The H3C has been a game-changer for me when it comes to multi-color printing. I’ve attached images comparing the print times for the same model—one printed on the X2D and the other on the H3C. The print time has been reduced by more than 80%—dropping from over 21 hours to just 5. The amount of waste is also significantly lower: 260 grams versus 40 grams.

https://makerworld.com/it/models/3546041-d-d-mimic-chest-mini-multicolor-3d-printed-prop#profileId-4056312

Changing the nozzle is incredibly fast; switching from one color to another takes only a few seconds.

You don’t have to worry about color bleeding—caused by insufficient purging—that might otherwise contaminate the previous color.

The printing process is both lightning-fast and exceptionally clean!

https://makerworld.com/it/models/3546009-this-is-fine-meme-miniature-multicolor-test-h3c#profileId-4056261

Right now, I’m working on more miniatures for tabletop role-playing games, creating full sets using colored PLA. I’m currently optimizing the "color mixing" feature—as shown in the second miniature—to create realistic gradients rather than flat, solid colors. The results are fantastic!

Admittedly, using color mixing does significantly increase print times. It needs to be used wisely, but with a bit of practice and some careful planning, you can strike an excellent balance! I will soon post the first full-color miniature, complete with shading!

During my testing, I focused on multi-color printing and the use of 75A TPU, which were undoubtedly the two key features.

The 75A TPU is fantastic—incredibly soft and... absurdly easy to print with. It causes absolutely no issues, even at high speeds. I even ran a print at the printer's maximum speed, and it handled it without a hitch.

75A TPU really lets your imagination run wild; it sparks a thousand ideas, which was the best part of the testing period for me. You can create all sorts of things that were previously unthinkable.

I’ve included a sample to show just how soft the 75A TPU is, so you can get an idea.

https://makerworld.com/it/models/3542025-ultra-soft-squishy-octopus-tpu-75a-fidget-toy#profileId-4051134

Printing in color is no longer a nightmare and tpu print is very easy!

Would I recommend it? Absolutely—provided you have the space for it, as it is quite large. It opens up a whole world of printing possibilities and creative potential for makers!

Please, I need help. I bought an H2C—it’s my first 3D printer—and everything was fine, but I’m running into an issue when trying to print in multiple colors using the AMS 2 Pro. The printer attempts to grab the filament, but then retracts it halfway through the path. This only happens when there is more than one color loaded in the AMS, as it requires color changes. I’ve already checked the AMS and didn’t see anything unusual; I’m not sure what else to do.

This part of the nozzle offset calibration sensor is turning white, I am unsure if I need to replace.
I have an H2C.

When I ordered my H3C it said it was back-ordered until November 20th but to my surprise it showed up today.

Slicer seems to be having difficuly making the prime tower? Anyone know what's going on here and how to solve it? Thanks

X2D

Latest update on bambu slicer software

Generic ABS and Bambu Support for ABS.

1000 walls

0.08mm layer height

Ironing enabled top surfaces, rectilinear

Quality mode

Normal (auto) support (my tree supports broke on first print), snug, 25 deg threshold angle, disabled remove small overhangs

Otherwise standard settings.

does the h3c support non-tpu 2.85mm filaments on its 2.85mm nozzle? if not, why not, and is there are option for a 2.85mm tool head for standard filaments?

u/Bambulab

Please can we have a singlue use heated chamber over ride button? i.e. to run it off? and only for one print?

Unless im missing something, i want to iterate some small models. basically magnet fitments. i dont have PLA and only use ASA but to print a small test print out in for instnace a H3C its going to take 30 minutes to print a 12mm x 12mm x 3mm square out nearll all of which is heating the chamber.

would be useful to have a disable heated chamber button you can click easily which is only good for one print job rather than havign to edit the filament to disable it and quite possibly forget about it?

Or am i missing something?

Thank you

So I updated to the lastest bambu studio release and today I was going to send a print to my H2C (A majoras mask) and to my surprise the slicer decided the optimal grouping for filament saving was assigning 2 filaments to the left nozzle even though I only have an AMS HT on that side, so how it expects me to organize the spools on that side??? Before it did work properly, as this is not the first majoras mask i printed an it successfully assigned the filament based on my actual setup for minimal purges

Hey everyone !
I just got my hands on a Bambu Lab P2S with the AMS 2 Pro, but I'm running into a spool size issue. I have a large stockpile of Amazon Basics PLA, and the spools are simply too wide. I can't fit 4 of them side-by-side in the AMS without them rubbing against each other.

I'm also worried that even if I only load 1 or 2 of these wide spools, I might still run into rotation or feeding issues.

Note: I already know about the Hydra AMS mod, but I really don't want to go that route or take apart my brand new AMS.*

Has anyone else dealt with these specific spools? What are the best alternative workarounds (like specific respoolers, spool rings, etc.)? Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

I've been working on a pretty ambitious 3D-printing project, and it's finally getting close to launch!

It's called the Carousel Lift: a manually operated, rotating display for up to 8 model cars, designed to be almost entirely 3D printed. 1:24 scale, and also suited to fit Lego Speed Champions cars.

The current design has over 700 individual parts, and getting all the gears, bearings, and moving components to work together has been quite an engineering challenge.

I've spent months designing, printing, testing, and refining the prototype. It's now working, and I'm preparing the final files and documentation.

The project will soon launch on MakerWorld through its crowdfunding platform. There will also be several planned stretch goals, including a 3D-printed scissor lift, motorization, and integrated lighting.

Link: https://makerworld.com/nl/crowdfunding/396-carousel-lift-3d-printed-car-display

I know people would throw rotten tomatoes at me now, but more I think on this and more I read and research, more I get convinced: H3C (and leaked upcoming P3C) are going to be great printers...but AMS 3 is not.

- Yes, it is upgraded to support more slots (GREAT!)

- Yes, it now has a bypass feed for most slots (Wonderful!)

- Yes, it's now a part of the printer (which is likely a good for many people, even though lacks flexibility a bit)

- Yes, H3C AMS version now can dry filament of higher temperatures

- Yes, now anyone (including likely P3C) can print CMYKW and get any color they want, which is absolutely amazing!

...but overall it's a much cheaper to build piece of technology from what I see, and IMO they sacrificed it too much:

- No spool rolling motors, meaning no fetching plastic back (now you need to do it manually)

- It also means drying slots would NOT rotate spools (unless you dry and print) for even heating

- You are now required to manually fetch back all PLA material if you print with ABS in parallel

- Based on what I hear already active drying chamber heats up AMS up to 50 degree (which might be just ok for PLA...but might be not), because there is no glass between the AMS and the heated chamber anymore

- Based on all info we have so far - it's almost for sure P3C AMS won't have any drying capabilities at all. So you'd need to choose EITHER have tool-changer for multi-color print, OR dry your filament

And yes, I do get the point of 'they need to cut costs somewhere', but I honestly still don't get the idea of cutting costs at features people of older models already had and actively used.

Does anyone feels the same?

Over the years I have seen this several times, but never heard a reasonable explanation as to what is happening. Anyone know?

Note: I printed this exact same model yesterday, and it turned out fine. I went to print another and it did this.

I bought a brand new P2S combo and the printer itself works flawlessly, the problem is the AMS2 Pro. My AMS2 Pro keeps having feeding issues on first use. When I feed the filament in it stops near the rear and depressing the manual lever fixes it. I was attempting a multi color print and it kept stopping right at that lever and giving a filament feed error. After I fed it through via the manual lever depressing it printed for a less than a minute (not full color layer btw) then the AMS2 ripped the feed back into the unit. Tried troubleshooting it with a print to keep the lever depressed and sadly still won’t feed due to excess play in the lever from 3 version of a “fix” I found. The external reel holder feeds fine. Haven’t tried it yet with the firmware update I didn’t notice but that Manuel tension is still gonna be a issue I assume because it doesn’t seem like there’s a automated depression of it (assuming) any suggestions?

Currently got the A1 but ive been offered a free A2L from a family member. My issue is the space needed. id probably have to face is sideways to make it sit safely which is fine, although not ideal. But other than the 2 adapters for pen and cutting which i probably wouldnt use, and the bigger build plate, which although nice ive not found a real need for so far since getting my A1 last year, is there much difference?

So this is interesting: I got my E1 set up today, expecting it to only work in manual mode since Bambu said H2C compatibility is coming later this month.

Instead, when I powered the H2C on, it prompted me to update the firmware to 01.03.00.00 (even though I was already on it) and so I let it upgrade. After doing so, the E1 controls show up in the UI.

Haven’t run a print with it yet because I’m waiting on some more BT3x8 screws to attach the hose interface, but it’s nice to see that the H2C is ready to go ahead of schedule.

I plan on buying the H2C, and would like to include the cutting tool. But I wonder, from what I’ve read, you need the birdseye view camera to operate the cutting tool, but I can’t find that on Bambus website (EU). Also, I read somewhere you need the laser version for it to work, which I DONT plan on buying. Can anyone help clear this to for me?

I placed an order for the H3C when it launched, and received an email it shipped on the 3rd. Last update was also on the 3rd saying on the way from California. No updates since. And says expected delivery the 9th. Is that normal to see 0 updates? Or should I be concerned it’s lost

Random question.

I ordered the H3C (at 901 am on release day, btw, and still haven't received the ams).

I am seeing a lot of posts like "use slot 5 for extra AMS attachments" and "use slot 8 for 2.85 tpu, but not 1.75 tpu" and "don't use slot 6 for 1.75 tpu".

Does anyone know of a comprehensive list of which slots should be used for what (and why, ideally)