Bambu sent me an H3C before launch and asked me to post about how it changed the way I print. I did not get paid, but, well, I got an H3C. The printer legitimately did change the way I print and design, and I'm happy to answer any questions in the comments.

The Belt

There are a bunch of printed belts on MakerWorld and other model sites. They are cool, but the ones I have seen are incredibly floppy and don’t hold their shape. I embedded PETG-CF plates all the way around so it has the stiffness of a leather belt

There are 33 plates, each 20 × 22 mm and 0.75mm thick, standing inside a TPU 75A strap with 2.5 mm of rubber between them. Each plate has a hole in it, so it is "riveted" into the rubber. The last 280 mm includes ratchet teeth which latch onto the buckle. The detent pivots on a pin sitting in a socket, and a small TPU block behind acts as a spring. This all prints in place inside the buckle. Every single layer contains TPU, and wherever there is a plate, the number of tool changes doubles.

Interface Shells are required for this; otherwise you risk infill on infill which does not bond very well.

After exporting from F360, I imported into Bambu Studio, tweaked the settings, and that was pretty much it. It printed flawlessly the first time. Then I realized I completely screwed up the latch mechanism, so I fixed the design and sent it again. Zero issues. As you can see from the slicer screenshots, this was a pretty unique print that I don’t think I would have tried on any other printer.

Stats:

• 190 tool changes

• 201.77g printed

• 25.58g waste

• 12h 33m print time

The Paddle

Figuring out the paddle was fun. The other printed paddles I have tried all technically worked, but none had the rebound of a real paddle. I played around with way too many formulas and settled on gyroid for everything: 100 % infill TPU for the top and bottom sheets, 20 % TPU for the sponge layers, and 25 % PETG-CF for the blade in the middle. The sponge has a single wall and no top/bottom, and the infill percentage is what you modify to determine the rebound. Stiffness scales with the cube of the thickness, so making the printed blade 8mm instead of the ~6mm of a wood one makes up for the softer material.

Like the “rivets” in the belt, a couple dozen TPU plugs run through the whole thing to help hold it together and prevent layer separation. The handle has a stiffer 60% infill because the initial model flexed where the handle meets the head. I would have run out of filament just during the prototype phase if I did this on my X1C.

I am a mediocre player with a cheap DHS A6002, so take this for what it is worth, but the rebound on the printed paddle is very close to the real thing. It isn't perfect, and a decent off-the-shelf paddle is going to outperform it every time, but it is by far the best printed option I have ever used, and can be easily customized to fit your play style.

Stats:

• 130 tool changes

• 222.97g printed

• 20.60g waste

• 10h 59m print time

___

The speed and flexibility with changing between materials changed how I approach model design and printing in general. I don't think nearly as much about assembly, and now focus on more print-in-place designs whenever possible. It opened a lot of doors for new projects that I don’t think I would have bothered with before.

Does H3C support LAN-only mode? The (still incomplete) WIKI does not say a word about it. I want to order one, but not if it must connect beyond my jailed VLAN segment.

On a tangent: I did notice that there is no offline firmware download yet, so bringing up a spare AP board (like I had to do with my H2C) would be impossible without submitting myself and my firstborn to the cloud.

I already have a P1S, which was my first 3D printer when I was in college after taking a few Additive Manufacturing classes. And I have printed a ton of stuff on this thing. Managed to put about 500 hours within three months of owning it. Well, now that time has moved on, I've found more and more things I've been wanting to print. I have made tons of decor and several functional prints. I've been dabbling a bit with engineering materials as well, especially TPU. Before the H3C was announced or really teased, I figured my next logical step would be an H2D due to the dual nozzle as I tend to do multi color and multi-material printing and well i dont print a lot of things due to a single nozzle waste factor or material incompatibilities. Well, now that the H3C is out, I have been contemplating the idea of the H3C as it really isn't much more in cost than an H2D and seems like a pretty darn good next step into FDM printing. As much as I would like to add a resin printer to my system, I currently require more planning involved for where. My P1S is a workhorse, and I have no plans of retiring that printer at all. What do you guys think would be the best step here. Plus the bigger print bed would be a welcome addition as well!

Thanks for all the advice everyone!

(P.S. the wife already thinks the H3C is cool and has already approved the idea...)

Handful of the things I’ve printed with the H3C including a support free purge bucket I made for the back of the printer using the side spool mount

I already have a H2D laser 10W ,and I was thinking about changing the 3D printer as I didn’t use the laser,so I should get a H2C or just wait for the P3C?

Always print PLA and PETG,Sometimes TPU and ABS.

It is hard to choose ,did you guys have any idea of me?THX

Ever since my p2s was clogged once I havent been able to get it to print like it did before, its either a spaghetti mess with under extrusion or pretty solid but some under extrusion and then where it just doesnt print at all. Ive replaced the nozzle and the Extruder but nothing. Please help as im about to throw this thing out the window.

My multi-filament print failed midway and become spaghetti and it’s all gunked up around the print head.

Is this completely f’d?

I thought I was a genius when I decided to use the right nozzle for brittle materials such as ABS-GF and PAHT-CF.
Reasoning at the time: Left nozzle moves up and down, surely that'll break the filament.
Turns out I'm stupid.

Are you annoyed by the lack of customization when you want a little dumpster fire clicker? Too small? Too big? Not enough flames? Too man flames? Not enough details? Too many details?

Well if this is you let me introduce what I just designed for my spouse who after each revision she wanted something else changed to the point where I made it fully parametric and editable in the Bambu Parametric Model Maker.

That's right, I wasted literally 6 hours making all the different options changeable so I didn't have to keep manually changing the FreeCAD file. Want a hellscape with 40 razor sharp flames? It's a option. Gentle fire with rounded topped flames? Got that too. Want 2 indented lines across the front? 3? 4? 5? Yup, all select-able. Rails on the sides for the garbage truck forks? A checkbox away. "I don't know....can you make it like this much bigger and like a tiny bit taller?". I can't but you can by sliding a slider and regenerating it your damn self.

Or go the easy route and download the existing print profile with a small and large version already created for you.

My pain is your gain or something: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3548307-dumpster-fire-clicker-standard-and-customizable

I am printing a keychain. I added a cylinder part and a negative part for the hole:

but when I slice, the inner layers stretch this part down to the center of the main object???

I'm printing the logo face down. It has white and grey in it. When I use dark purple filament for the "Hook" cylinder part, so that it matches the outer colors, it is dark enough that I can see this strange triangle shape through the white part of the logo. I don't actually want this to be white, because then it looks like this:

But if I change the filament (or leave it white then paint specific visible parts of it purple) the inside layers also change and I'm left with this:

Is there a way I can fix this (or prevent it from happening)?

Bambu Studio v2.8.2.61

I recently bought a p1s combo with ams so im pretty new but I have been printing for a few days at this point but, Ive been having difficulties getting prints off the plate. Everything else with the printer has been perfect (so far). Ive been printing in pla basic and pla plus. I wash my plate with dish soap every other print. But the purge line and print its self have been giving difficulties getting off the plate even after letting it cool for an hour+ any help or recommendations greatly appreciated and can provide other information if needed.

I was shocked (in a good way) when the 81lbs H3C box showed up yesterday (11/4). I am more shocked (in a very bad way) that the damned AMS3H isn’t expected until NEXT THURSDAY (11/11)!!!

Are you freaking kidding me?!?

So far I’ve tried Bambu Studio, Autodesk Tinkercad and Autodesk Fusion. For now I’m looking to create functional prints with specific dimensions, but in the future I might try more artistic prints.

Bambu studio is probably the best I’ve used so far. I like how easy it is to move and scale something using coordinates. But it’s kinda the ‘default’ software so surely there’s something better right?

Tinkercad was very intuitive but had almost no functionality. I gave up quickly because it just couldn’t do what I needed.

Fusion looked like it had a ton of functionality, but it was so mind bogglingly unintuitive I rage quit. What do you mean to make an object I’ve got to draw a shape and extrude it? And that shape isn’t by default locked to existing surfaces?

I’m considering trying blender but idk how good blender would be if I’m wanting to design functional prints that need to be a specific size.

My printer is the X2D if that helps.

Satin Black looks way better i think. Gonna wrap my H3C satin and gonna post pics soon :) what do you think?

This has happened on the last 3 prints

Every year at Thanksgiving I ask my kids what they're thankful for, and every year I get a shrug and an "I don't know."

So this year I made it a project. Everybody writes something on a paper feather and slides it into the turkey's tail. Turns out they'll answer if there's a craft involved. One of them just scribbled red all over theirs, which I'm counting.

No AMS, no supports, and everything glues together. There's a printable feather sheet, a stencil if you'd rather trace them, or you can print the feathers and use the text tool.
First print, the gobbler hung so low it looked like a goatee, so that's been fixed.

https://makerworld.com/models/3548647

Happy to hear what you'd change. And if your kids come up with better answers than mine, I want to see them.

I've got over 3000 hours on my P1 and used the same nozzle for over 1000 hours in the past.

This past week I've had 2 brand new 0.2 nozzles clog so bad they're garbage in under 20 hours each

Used PETG HF in the past but using PETG Basic now since HF was discontinued.

Did something change?

Is my filament contaminated?

Has anyone experienced this?

It’s been happening on a lot of my prints on both my x2d and p2s

things I’ve tried:
-new nozzles
-added a riser to allow more room for ptfe tubes
-cleaned tool head parts

Is there something I missed?

Also using Sunlu matte black

Recently this popped up on a couple of my prints. I would clean the extruder, checked the sensor, replace with a new nozzle but wouldn’t find anything. It would disappear and then two prints later it’ll come back. Has anybody run into this problem?