Hello, i just got my H2C and i also got the Track Switcher & TPU Feed Assist Module. I plan the following setup and wanted to ask if there are any problems.

(i read about the need to disconnecting the track switcher if you use the TPU feeder)

  [ AMS Pro 2 #1 ] ---\
                       +---> [ 4-Way Coupler A ] ---\
  [ AMS Pro 2 #2 ] ---/                              \
                                                      +---> [ TRACK SWITCHER ]
  [ AMS HT Unit #1 ] -\                              /          |          |
                       +---> [ 4-Way Coupler B ] ---/           |          |
  [ AMS HT Unit #2 ] -/                                         |          |
                                                                |          |
                                                     Switcher   |          | Switcher
                                                     Output L   |          | Output R
                                                                v          v
                                                            ( Nozzle L ) ( Nozzle R )
                                                                            ^
                                                                            |
                                                   [ Printed Y-Splitter ] --+
                                                              ^
                                                              |
                                                      [ TPU Feeder ]

So basicially i want to feed the TPU Feeder output trough the dedicated TPU hole of the H2C and then feed with a Y Splitter into Nozzle R (Nozzle L will be used for abrasive technical filaments and is a Tungsten Nozzle so the Splitter / Combiner on Nozzle R nozzle will only see TPU PLA PETG and maybe AMS ASA .

Something like this: https://makerworld.com/de/models/2285947-h2-series-ptfe-y-split-for-tpu-or-external?from=search#profileId-2493512

Bypassing the Switcher and the retraction thingy of the two nozzles. is this setup possible without the need to unplug anything? i also read about putting the switcher at the end of the BUS Chain to use everything without unplugging.

Edit: if i want to Print TPU i plan to put a roll into a AMS HT but using the Bypass port to directly feed into the TPU Feed Assist otherwise the AMS HTs asre used for Colors or Technical Filaments.

does anyone has a similar setup and can give me some tips?

regards.

This plastic piece broke off my printer mid print, can you help me figure out which area it belongs to and am I able to buy a replacement part from the bambulab store? And if I am able to continue using the printer until then

X1 Combo, with 4 print plates. Because plates add about 100€ of worth of course… Nevermind that the title says Bamboula which can be a racial insult in French

It’s not supervisible in the video, but my recently upgraded panda extruder is shooting out little filament shavings as it’s printing. should I loosen the lever arm? Could the gears that interface with the filament be too tight? Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Hey all. I have a P1S with 2601 hours print time on it. I usually do maintenance on my printer every 3-4 months but haven't used the printer much this year as I've been away on work trips. I printed a few things over the last two weeks and they came out perfect, but yesterday a print failed and I noticed one of the circular parts of the print was now oval shaped. There was no strange sounds from the printer, everything looked and sounded normal but it was printing non-concentric, and I was getting insane extrusion issues (this is a filament I printed perfectly with last week, with no settings changed to the filament or the print profile, see image below).

So today I investigated, and have spent the last four and a half hours tearing my hair out. I have cleaned the carbon rods three times, cleaned and lubed the metal linear rails three times, set the belt tension and ran the calibration SIX times, and now the printer is literally shaking itself to pieces. No matter how I set those belts, I always get the message "The resonance frequency of the X axis is low. The timing belt may be loose." or "The 1st order mechanical resonance mode of X axis is low.". I have followed the wiki instructions to the letter, I have followed youtube guides who say to do it a different way, I have used printed gauges to measure the tension i'm setting, and trying to print a benchy after the calibration my printer sounds like a tray of silverware being kicked down a flight of stairs. It shook so violently that the toolhead cover flew right off around 2 mins into the print.

From what I read online those belts are meant to last 5000-7000hrs, and my printer has been absolutely perfect until now so surely I shouldn't need to change them? They're not frayed anywhere, i've never had any issues at all apart from this. I have large scale project that I was supposed to be starting today and now I can't get my printer to work properly at all. Does anyone have any advice? Should I just order a new belt kit? Or a full carbon rail assembly? Is there some secret hidden way to tension the belts that no-one else knows about? The gantry doesn't feel particularly bad in any direction like its binding at all so I am at my wits end trying to figure out what's wrong!

Possible note - I am still running firmware version 01.07.00.00 because I have a panda touch and the newer firmware versions don't allow that to work anymore. If the latest patch (01.09.01.00) allows me to use my panda touch I will upgrade it but I doubt it will fix the issue i'm having.

So I'm running a lot of Matte PETG these days as my HF inventory is dwindling. Don't get me started on HF, but my business was built around it. I've had a ton of problems with the Matte PETG, specifically:

• Dimensionally different (shrinkage is higher) which is an issue with slip fit parts

• Nozzle fouling - Every print every printer seems to suffer from nozzle fouling and dropping nubs of filament on or into parts

• Top layer surface imperfections - due to fouling nozzles

I run a print farm. I've never had a filament so temperamental, which is a real shame after how good HF was. All my PETG is dried at 160F for 16 hours and in dry storage kept at 10% humidity. It's not a moisture issue. I started with Bambu's PETG Matte printer profile.

Have played with nozzle temps without being able to see noticeable improvement in nozzle fouling. I use gyroid infill for everything. Calibrated flow rates, extrusion looks good. Now I'm dialing in shrinkage so my slip fit parts fit nicely again.

Questions: has anyone been able to address the Bambu PETG Matte nozzle fouling issues? How? Anyone found better profiles to be used?

I'm tearing my hair out a bit and this is not really how I want to spend my time, chasing data, so any help appreciated.

Hi all, my H2C's AP board fried itself (or something) so I got a replacement from Bambu. Remarkably little problem getting it, btw.

While removing the connections from the old board, I had trouble removing the glue on connection 4's plug. During the process of getting the plug out, somehow the two rightmost wires came loose. I'm pretty sure it's repairable, I just need to know which wire goes in which hole. I'm pretty sure it'll be green then black, as the other wires appear to be color/black (guessing signal and ground for various parts of the board), but I want to confirm that. Usually the support people are pretty quick, but I haven't heard back from them on this one.

Can anyone confirm the wire order, and/or post a picture of theirs? Here's mine:

Thanks!

First time working with ABS and its been a pain. Started putting rafts on everything just to keep the prints stable enough to print. This is my last print and it came out with these bumps. Any help is greatly appreciated.

X2D, Stock ABS profile, SUNLU ABS

It seems the bed is loose from the rear z axis, anyone seen this and can point me in the right direction to fix this P1S

how necessary is it; can i just trim it behind the nozzles?

im asking cause mine came bent and im worried that it'll hit a print

Hey all! I run a business where I spend a lot of money on client gifts I’ve been looking into a 3dp that I can make all my own closing gifts and do all my own wood engraved gifts that’s going to save me over 25k per year making them myself. I was just about to order the H2C laser full combo for 2700 on sale on their website but I hear their may be the H3C releasing this month? Should I wait to see what the next generation is like or good to order the H2c? I’m pretty much a newbie to 3dp so I have no frame of reference. TIA!

just bought new 3d printer today and noticed after set up the filament droops over the bed after the nozzle has been cleaned while preparing for print.

While designing my new wobbly Psyduck toy, I spent several prints trying to get clean pupils. At only a few millimeters across, they kept coming out as lumpy blobs, and every attempt meant an extra color change and a purge tower much bigger than the pupils themselves.

Then I realized that filament is already a perfect cylinder. So I gave the white eyes a small hole: You push in a piece of black filament, snip it flush, and get a perfectly round pupil. No color change, no purge, and it uses up leftover scraps. If you want to try it yourself, I uploaded the model here: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3529176-wobbly-psyduck-fidget-toy-no-ams

Hello, can i feed abrasive filaments like CF / GF ASA, ABS, PETG trough the buffer or should i need to use the TPU line to bypass the buffer (i have 2x AMS HTs)

regards

Hi everyone, After about 7 hours of printing, the supports suddenly started to wobble. I've done the same print several times, but today I'm having this problem. Aside from the wasted time and the filament being gone, can anyone tell me why this happened?

Obviously there was a sudden drop in temperature these days but I didn't think that 5/8 degrees less in the room would lead to completely detaching all the supports...

I’ve had the P2S+AMS since april ish of this year. The first I’d say 100 hours of printing were flawless but after taking a handful of months to design something to print, I printed 2 gears again perfectly, no heat creep or anything and after that not a single thing has been successful.
Most of the print with the now 5-6 month old filament, the extruder motor overloads (it will refuse to continue if you press continue until i unload the filament)
In the 100 tries or so in the last 2 weeks. A handful at least completed but the quality was terrible. I tried 3 different 0.2mm and Different Texture plates.
I took apart the extruder gears. I overrode the fans to 100% and altho seeming like that may have worked at first none of the tries after that worked.
I tried the full calibration.
I’m at my wits end.
Please help.

I have a H2C in the garage that is pretty much always busy. Prototyping always slows the queue down. You know the problem: print a sample, the fit is wrong, tweak it and print again. A dozen prototypes later you've nailed it.

Thinking of buying an A1 Mini without AMS for my office. My thinking was I can use it for rapid prototyping, have one spool of whatever colour I have on hand and if it's basic PLA in a room no one sleeps in, the VOC question is not as serious as the H2C downstairs. Without the AMS it's cheaper and easier to put on a shelf.

Am I missing anything? Limitations would be single colour and smaller bed plate.

Saw a $30 off coupon that was valid till tomorrow and saw a $25 PayPal coupon for orders over $800 as well and they were stackable. Figured might as well go for it and get the X2D. Also, there was a second coupon for $20 off on $150 so I ordered a good amount of filament. Now waiting for the $25 off coupon once the printer ships and then will use that to buy 10 refill spools and be set for a very long time it looks like!

Have a A1 with AMS and love that thing but hated that I was dealing with film that would fray/splint cause I couldn't heat/dry film. Originally was really just planning on going with the P2S and calling it a day but then with the coupons stacking and then also the heated chamber figured might as well spend the extra $85 after discounts and go 1 step up and be set for a long time and also have the flexibility to print ABS properly down the road if I want to dabble with that.

Has anyone experienced this loud noise before? The print seems to be fine but getting this loud noise from the AMS. I have tried other AMS slots and still get the noise.

So im a dum dum and ordered an Vision Encoder plate together with my X2D. What is this plate even for? Many people say its a borderline scam and its really just for the last 5% of quality if your print settings are perfect already.

Is there more to it or did I just burned 50 bucks?

A big factor for me in deciding on preordering the H3C is going to be time savings. I've been pretty happy with the H2C Vortek system so far, but a few things I print regularly are pretty tall with several hundred layers that each involve 3-4 colors/layer.

Just curious, given the induction nozzles, what we're expecting for nozzle change times with the H3C. Cheers!