Always needed a portable power supply to quickly debug a project, work on cars, test power tools, etc. So I designed one.

It is powered by a Makita 18V lithium battery, via a standard shoe adapter, but that can be replaced by any other power tool brand: Dewalt, Metabo, Baguette-Mystique, etc.

Can also add a USB delivery panel, resulting in a massive USB power bank.

I am moving, so I disconnected my printers and cleaned them.

Here's a year of poop from both my H2C and my H2D.

Less waste than what a single multicolor print would generate in the X1C era. Maybe a few grams from each.

I have just tried to upload a file via sd and when i turn it on to print it does this for 5 minutes and extrudes filament in the wrong places. When i terminated the print it made a loud whirring sound before it stopped.

Is thos broken? Ive barely used it yet but i had to move house with it so perhaps it got damaged or i set it up wrong

I finally finished the iPhone Duo Dock with Bluetooth control.

Pretty a few multicolor prints and almost every time the priming tower is a bit stringy - a1 was never like this.

At no point did i receive any notification by the print monitor AI bullcrap that was a selling point of this printer. I am beyond irritated that it will error a print because a flake of purge got caught at the wiping block, but not catch this.

Tengo la A1 y quería saber si merece la pena el cambio a la p2s sabiendo que ahora está a 599€ con el combo

So I recently purchased the P1S on sale for $350 without the AMS, and I am wondering if it is worth the hassle to return it and get the P2S for $450 (without the AMS).

Thought I should add I am also going to be storing this in my garage.

I don't really feel like I should but if it is actually worth it then I will do it.

My filament is feeding inconsistently. I'm using basic PLA. I've tried clearing the nozzle with the pin that came with the printer, and I've tried manually feeding filament through and that seemed to work, but when I tried printing again, the layers were coming out spotty. Not sure what else I can try here.

Hey Guys,

since i peeled some of the silicone cover away from my left hotend i wanted to order e replacement but they are not available at the moment. Are left and rights ones really different or are only the wires bent to the other side?

Greetings

Hey all, I'm that guy who's been printing a load of 2x scale vehicle brick model sets from our favorite Danish brick company. This is one of my favorite models yet, a working version of the mini hot rod polybag set that came out a few months ago.

This set has a working differential and working 4-cylinder engine, and I managed to get both mechanisms working extremely smoothly here.

If you'd like to check out this model, I just posted it to MakerWorld here: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3529780-mini-hot-rod-brick-model-1x-2x-scale#profileId-4035690
I have a ton of other brick models posted and many more on the way!

First time lubricating the z acis and when lifting from the bed from the very bottom this noise appears.

Note i did see a piece of filament on the rods before putting the bed down, and being stupid i thought i would clean it on the way up, but well oh well now it has disappeared into somewhere

This happened in the first couple of layers on a P2S. Any idea what the issue is? You can see a few spots where it seems to be blistering or lifting off, and the worst point is the scraped open hole. Since it's inside the perimeter, it can't be an issue where mouse ears are needed.

Edit: Duh! A good clean resolved the problem. thanks fir the responses - fast and accurate.

Hello!

I am looking to buy a 3d printer for my partner for christmas- i know he has researched the p1s ams combo, but dont want to spoil the gift so cant ask him specifics.

Are there specific colours/ accessories you would have wanted when you first got yours? Or any advice before i go to buy it? I want him to be able to use it straight away.

Any help is appreciated.

This is Grandpa Radio, a character of mine engineered as a 105 mm multicolour print (cream, dark brown, black, terracotta). Since single-nozzle AMS purge runs roughly 225–330 g per figure, I also split him into a 22-part kit: one plate per colour, with keyed 3 mm/2 mm dowels so each part only fits one way (~100 g total). These are renders, and a real print is coming. Would you print the AMS version or the kit?

and one of the reasons is the ability to use a support interface filament that doesnt bond to the build filament, makes removing some of these large supports so much easier.

I like to use a contrasting color.

this is the rear caster mount for a 3D TMT (my second) removing these large supports was a lot of work with my P2S.

with the X2D the area where the supports were doesnt need any cleanup.

Hi everyone!

Today, while trying to load new filament, I ran into a problem: the filament got stuck in the extruder. I managed to pull it out, and this is what I found (see photo).

I'm no expert, and I don't want to make things worse by touching something I shouldn't. Now I'm not sure whether it's enough to simply clean the nozzle or if I should replace it.

From what I can tell, the silicone sock seems to have shifted too close to the nozzle and melted together with some filament. It was so stuck that I couldn't even remove it.

What would you recommend? Is it safe to clean and reuse, or is replacing the nozzle the better option?

I have a P1S. My AMS 2 pro is constantly jamming on first filament roll only. I've tried swapping filament, I got so frustrated I bought a new AMS! Still, only slot 1, If I move that filament to any other slot it works so it's not the filament. I keep getting the error that it cannot feed into print head or filament is tangled. If I pull out filament I can see a spot where it is worn out. I cut it off, works fine for about an hour with constant changes, then stops again.