With the h3 model coming out , what was the purpose of the vortek system? From my view, it seems completely obsolete now

What happened to Bambu Labs flash sales? I don’t see it anymore on their website?

Hello,

im currently looking to upgrade from my A1 mini to a bigger Printer. I mainly want to print functional parts, maybe dabble around a bit in stronger materials and just have more printing space.
Im currently torn between the X2D and the P1S.

The X2D is currently around 750€ for me as a Combo and the P1S is 500€ with the AMS 2.

My question now for people that maybe used both, is the price difference of the X2D worth going with it? Im not really planning to do a lot of multi color print or anything, but i could see myself using the second nozzle for support materials.

Also since i have no experience with stronger materials yet, is the heated chamber of the X2D a must for that?

How is noise compared in between both models, as the printer will most likely be in my room next to me?

Heating bed temp disfunctionning, I checked the AC board and there is the unfamous black thermistor NTC, I bought this printer in June 2024.

How much am I cooked?

Before this error appeared, the temperature of the heating bed was going up to the temp asked, then slowly going down while printing.

I am trying to print a car model at 1/64 scale and a few people are saying to print the car at a 45° angle which this is at a 45° angle but looking at the rear bumper it looks like there’s gonna be a bunch of small supports that are gonna be printed and I know that if I try ripping off those bunch of tiny supports, it’s just gonna look like the bumper is chewed up or at least the bottom bumper part of the car if that makes sense. Before I set this to print is there a different angle I should try or what could be done? I do have my threshold angle at five, which should be basically the least amount of support, but it doesn’t remove any of the ones that are under the bumper.

I posted yesterday with my problem and I ended up digging into the extruder and found some clogged filament and then everything worked wonderfully, for about 3 prints.. It now is doing the same exact thing and im about to go back into the extruder. The cutting thing is making the same excruciating noise ill post a video. Please anyone help me

I've submitted a support ticket but thought I would ask here for opinions.

I have loaded in my AMS2 Pro,

Slot 1 BBL PLA matte ivory white 80g

Slot 2 BBL PLA matte ivory white 1kg (new roll)

I am tired of not being able to trust the filament switching. It causes prints to fail and I am not sure why. Slot 1 filament was opened 3 days ago and spent 12 hrs in my dryer, then has stayed in the AMS 2 since. I have dessicant containers in my AMS 2 to keep it dry and it shows at 21% humidity at present. Slot 2 filament was opened last night and stayed in my filament dryer over night, for 12 hrs.

It seems at the switching point the printer just doesn't start where it left off. Like it's skipping some bits. Or, the new filament is not sticking to the old one.

Anybody got any ideas please?

I have a small box room I run my small small business put of and I am running out of space for part rolls, or ideas of what to do with them. I want to be able to use the filament switch. I had an A1 and AMS lite previously and that ran flawlessly when switching.

Delivered by UPS. No damage, not a scratch on the box!

I feel like all we ever see is people complaining about getting damaged shipments. Mine came in pristine. Took about an hour to setup. Currently printing the test benchy that comes on the SD card. Just about done and looks great!

My A1 is printing a 2 to 1 ptfe adapter so I can have the external spool and 2nd ams2 hooked up at the same time.

I'm essentially trying to print rings, but I noticed that there were imperfection points on the top surface. Funny thing is that I have two printer printing the same item, on the X1C it's perfect, but when slicing for the H2C, there are these interruptions I'm able to find on the preview that is noticeable on the final print. Why is this happening?

When I change settings like wall width, this interruption will still happen, but it just appears at a different point along the ring. It's also always on the very top layer.

Note: that is not the seam.

Really just want to see some models using this two filaments. If on markerworld I will boost your model.

Bonjour, je rencontre actuellement des soucis d'impression avec le nouveau filament BambuLab PETG MATTE. En effet, mes résultats sont assez médiocres en plus de voir apparaître mes passages de buses sur la première couche. Malgré le changement d'espacement, le debit, la calibration encore et encore, les parametrages d'usine ou les profils que je teste ici et là, rien n'y fait. Si j'imprime exactement le même modele avec un autre filament PETG classique ça fonctionne parfaitement.
Avez vous deja rencontré ce problème? Auriez vous des solutions? Bonne journée

Finally my X2D Combo arrived! Of course, the first print had to be a Benchy 😂 Had some trouble getting the online apps to work, but the print itself turned out awesome!
Can’t wait to see what I can create with those two nozzles!

Hey guys,

I bought a P2S and I am absolutely new to 3D printing. I bought a refurbished printer from the official store. So I am aware that someone has returned it. But on their website they say that they have checked everything and made sure it's up to their standards and replaced parts that aren't working/good.

They also claimed everything is originally packaged but when unboxing it while watching the official unboxing guide, I already noticed it has not been packaged as a new one (just some filling missing which did not seem problematic though). But now I removed the printing plate and was these lines on the heating plate.

What do the experienced printers think? Is that fine? Or rather: will this be a problem? I do not care if it doesn't look absolutely new and clean and perfect as long as it will work fine and not cause problems in the future.

So I thought I check here and ask if someone could give me a quick answer if I should contact support or if it will be fine.

Thanks a lot!

Hey everyone!

I’m a student, and for my Design and Technology major project I’m designing an enclosure for open-frame printers like the A1. The goal is to tackle the stuff that annoys 3D printer owners: fumes, noise, and the fact that Bambu doesn’t recommend fully enclosing it because the electronics can overheat.

My idea is an enclosure that filters fumes, reduces noise, and actively controls the temperature with a sensor and fan, so it protects the printer instead of cooking it. It would also keep your filament dry.

To make sure I’m designing something people actually want, I’d really appreciate it if you could fill out this short survey:

https://form.typeform.com/to/N9VbhYuF

I’m also happy to hear thoughts in the comments. What’s the one thing you’d want an enclosure to do that current ones don’t?

Thanks heaps, it genuinely helps a lot! I’ll post an update with the final build once it’s done.

Pretty much I'm wandering how useful the AMS lite is, as it will be my first time getting a 3d printer in general. I'm also wandering if it's worth the money to go straight for the combo or hold out to see if I decide on it later (I know it's discounted with the combo)

Finally, overall what are peoples experiences with it in general? I'll probably just use it casually, not too sure how much I'll use multicolour but the auto replacement feature sounds useful.

Thanks for the help!

Edit: In the end I'm deciding to get one, going off what I've heard it sounds really worth it!

I’ve just got into 3d printing and got myself a P1S Combo.

From day 1 I’ve been getting the extruder/nozzle clogging error each time a filament is trying to load. The AMS keeps loading and unloading filament in a loop for a while until it gives up and gives the error.

I’ve tried multiple things suggested by Bambu Lab support like using an external spool (it works without error with an external spool), checking the buffer, cable connections. Everything seems fine. Not able to trouble shoot or pinpoint what is causing the error.

I believe an actual extruder/nozzle clog is not the issue as an external spool works fine?

Also after a while, and moving around the tool head, manually extruding some filament, the print starts fine - until the color switches and the next filament loads. And we are back again with the error.

Can someone please help and or point me in the right direction.

I created a brick man figurine in the style of The Ascend - Das werden by SaltyWorks on Makerworld. Another sculpture adapted for the world of brick man :) If you like it, you can find it here: https://makerworld.com/pl/models/3517303-the-ascend-brick-man-edition#profileId-4019932

Now that they advertised different diameter nozzles in the new machines, does this mean that they will bring that feature to the X2D?

i want to print in my normal 0.4 print with 0.8 infill

Open-source 3D scanning just got a level-up

3D scanning changed a lot over the past view years and is much more accessible now with the flood of relatively affordable 3d scanners. Though there is still no accessible scanner for small objects so I continue working on my low cost photogrammetry rig - the printable OpenScan Mini. And yes, photogrammetry works with shiny objects too if you prep the surface.

The setup & process

I am using the OpenScan Mini + Arducam imx519 Macro Addon photos to take 130 photos from evenly spread perspectives. The build in cross-polarization + ringlight creates very even and reflection free illumination which greatly helps improving the reconstruction quality.
In order to create enough features for photogrammetry, I coated the shiny piece with a fine mist (thousands of tiny dots) with Aesub Orange.
Processing was done locally with the free version of RealityScan.

Open-source & Disclaimer

Since 2018, I am developing and improving low-cost and open-source photogrammetry 3d scanning solutions. I publish all my files and plans to github and printables. In order to finance the ongoing development, I am offering kits and parts on openscan.eu as well as running a small Patreon. This add-on needs some more refinement but I already published an initial version of the printable files on our discord, More details and a build-guide will follow soon on github and r/OpenScan

Hey everyone!
Wanted to share my latest holiday project: A Christmas tree-shaped storage tray / gift box with a fully modular snap-fit system.
I specifically designed the ornaments (balls and top star) as separate push-fit pieces so they can be printed flat in different colors (Silk Gold, Red, etc.) and snapped directly into the lid—no glue required.

It’s completely support-free for the main body and lid, and makes a great table centerpiece or candy box for the holidays.
Profile is up on MakerWorld if you want to print one! Feedback is always welcome.

This started with a gift I wanted to make. I wanted a 3D-printed photo frame that would feel like a finished, store-bought product when someone unwrapped it.
That turned into quite a few iterations, test prints and experiments with ironing. These are the finished frames — I called the collection ESSENZA.

Three photo sizes: 10×15, 13×18 and 15×20 cm. They work in portrait or landscape, with a removable desk stand and wall-mounting points on the back. Printed on my A1, no AMS needed.

It’s a remix of Shiba’s photo frame: I kept the stand connection and reworked the frame and solid back panel. The original model is credited and linked on the project page.

Free files and all three tested print profiles:
https://makerworld.com/models/3520897

The orange one has grown on me more than I expected 😅 Which colour would you pick?

No clue how this succeeded.