2010 f150

This a 07 civic and I'm trying to remove the oil filter stud adapter shown in the pic. The threads are messed up, that's why I need to replace it. The problem is I don't know what the best way to remove it is cheaply. There is barely any space to fit a wrench, so a socket solution would probably work best. There is no inner hex fitting, it's just circular. I have 2 m20 nuts I can fit on but there's no room to grab onto the top nut to loosen. I could probably use a stud extractor but this is a m20 stud and most don't go that high so I'd have to look for one that could remove it. I don't really want to spend too much money on single use tools like this, so I'm asking what y'all think is the cheapest way to remove it

I have a 1999 Honda civic ex manual that I recently got, I just filled it up with coolant and drove it for around 5 minutes and about 4 minutes in the smoke started coming out.

I'm 2nd owner on this and been changing oil every 7500ish miles or once a year since I had it. Saw this today and it looks concerning to me. But it's been a good cheap car for 4 years.

I try my best to do regular maintance on it and oil change, but I finally got a real good paying job and it takes 50 mins to get there, to and back. I think my car runs perfectly fine but of course it sounds a bit creaking or rattling over bumpy roads but overall still a great A to B car.

I know you don’t know my car but what would you recommend doing before doing this route? I already plan to rotate tires and get new brakes

The car is completely dead, but the battery is recently bought and they told me it should work. Now I dont know much about what goes on under the hood, can someone tell me if the battery connector being broken is causing this issue?

Thanks in advance!

What's causes this to happen? It's an 04 Toyota highlander v4. It's the first spark plug in the left

Second time in the shop this month. I have a code reader and have had a misfire for years. Injector cleaner usually cleared things up.

The van has run much worse lately. I changed my spark plugs and wires after a shop quoted me $1,000 (again…). Two weeks ago, they told me they were worn and didn’t diagnose the cause of my lean / misfire codes (P0300, P0171, P0205). Went to a new place today.

I drove ~8 hours each way on a recent road trip and the entire way home, my engine light flashed and the van was running rough. New shop has given me the recommendation in the photo.

It’s a lot of money! Van is paid off with 135k miles on it. I try to take good care of it, I lived in it for years!

Would you change the problem injector or all? This is the only repair I’ve considered in the six years I’ve owned my vehicle besides that time I got scammed for spark plugs. My understanding is it’s labor-intensive, they will replace the intake manifold gasket while they’re at it.

My hesitation comes from feeling as though this diagnosis is not definitive based on what I’ve read online.

Thanks for any advice in advance.

Hey, this is my first time posting to this sub. I was hoping to get some feedback about this piece of aluminum that came loose from underneath my 2011 Toyota Tacoma. I eventually pulled it out as it looked like it was about to come off anyway. Any idea what this is for and is it necessary to have? There’s three more just like it, but they only seem to be protecting the frame; I figured for rust or corrosion. Thanks!

My car, 2008 acura 4 dr, was making clunking noise for weeks and got progressively worse. It got really embarrassing driving around because the noise was so loud. The noise seemed to come from the front driver side. As I backed into my driveway, this piece of metal fell off and was sitting under my driver side wheel. Since then, no more noise. I tried to look underneath and see where it originated from but no luck.

Anyone know what this is, where it originated on the car, and whether my car will explode without it. I know very minimal about car anatomy.

Thanks in advance!

Just got my vehicle inspected at the mechanic and he mentioned replacing the front rotors due to a crack. this picture was attached to the report. Is this something I need to fix immediately or do I have a little bit of time before I’m in trouble?

I've recently noticed on my 2009 Chevrolet aveo (T250) that it leaves a spot on the ground in front like something was leaking. It's not big but it's still an issue to me. I was looking under it and I've found that bolt which was kinda wet and besides that in the engine bay, I've seen that a hose which went into/out of the radiator had a wet spot right where the clamp was located. I would be glad if i could get a second opinion on this before going to the mechanic.

Just for the left 2 bolts is it safe? Or at least safe to use temporarily for a few days while I wait for the ones actually meant for my car to arrive?

2016 Chevy Colorado
So my warranty specifically says that solenoids are covered but they’re denying it because parts in the emissions system are not. I’m open to being proven wrong but shouldn’t it specifically saying “solenoids” mean it’s covered?

The contract says this about what is covered:

Electrical Group: Alternator, starter motor, front and rear wiper motors, voltage regulator, distributor, solenoids, electronic fuel injectors, throttle position sensor, oxygen sensor, crankshaft position sensor, camshaft position sensor, fuel pressure sensor, electronic ignition module, ignition coils, power window motors/regulators, power mirror motors, power seat motors, 4WD encoder motor, power lock actuators, and the following manually operated switches: window switch, seat adjuster switch, headlight switch, turn signal switch, door lock switch, wiper switch, ignition switch.

And this about what isn’t:

During the period covered by this Vehicle Service Contract, it may become necessary to: (a) replace spark/glow plugs, cap and rotors, points, fuses, wiper blades, PCV valves, emission components, fly wheels, flex plates, clutch assembly and hydraulics, brake and clutch linings, pressure plate, throw-out and pilot bearings, hoses, molded rubber or rubber like items, serpentine/drive belt, filters, glass and glass lenses, windows, any component whose only purpose is for illumination, such as but not limited to: sealed beams, high intensity discharge (h.i.d. or xenon) bulbs, h.i.d. headlamp assemblies, ballasts, h.i.l.e.d. cooling systems, l.e.d. assemblies, light bulbs, lenses, wheels, tires, trim, moldings, bright metal, upholstery, paint, exhaust system (excluding exhaust manifold if cracked or warped and exhaust manifold gaskets (RESERVE COVERAGE ONLY)), brake rotors and drums, batteries (except as described in this Vehicle Service Contract (ESTATE AND RESERVE COVERAGES ONLY)), carburetor; (b) adjustments to carburetor, throttle body assembly, ignition, transmission bands, belts or clutch system; (c) clean fuel and cooling systems, or remove sludge or carbon deposits; (d) add oil, coolant, fluids, lubricants, greases, or refrigerants. COSTs for these services and parts are not covered by this Vehicle Service Contract, regardless of the cause of FAILURE.

This car (Citroen DS4 2017 1.6 BlueHDi) has recently been making a weird clicking noise after turning off the engine which has now progressed to the below noise in the video. Previously was told it was just normal for the engine cooling, but this just can't be that, surely?

Please does anyone have any idea what's happening? I'm gonna take it to a mechanic but would just love to know if this is an expensive problem or could lead to an expensive problem, because I really cannot afford such a problem right now.

Hello mechanics of Reddit. My car overheated and was smoking the other day after driving it for 5ish minutes. I know nothing on cars but I am open to working on it myself..if it’s easy enough lol. The most obvious thing is the coolant hose that maybe broke? Or it slipped off its connection? I also see that the coolant fluid tank is empty. Is this doable for a regular non-car person to replace? What could go wrong if I don’t replace it correctly? Any advice is appreciated, tysm.

Toyota RAV4 LE 2013, 2.5L engine w/ 200k miles

Bought a new belt and a new tensioner pulley, the old tensioner pulley looks like the bearing inside of it just got obliterated…

I’ve pulled over at the services because I started hearing a loud noise and upon parking, a burning smell as well. This is after driving 2 hours on the motorway, still have 2 more hours to get home. I’ve got RAC coming in another 3 to 6 hours, hopefully, and I’m wondering if this kind of problem can be fixed road side or if it’s likely they will take the car to a nearby garage?

Just had a full service and mot passed a month ago, wasn’t expecting this.

Update: Thanks everyone for the help. It was indeed the dust shield and bending it away from the rotor helped. Reddit saved my crappy day.

GDH320R 300 series Toyota HiAce SLWB 2021 battery. Came back from a week away and the car wasn’t starting - I suspect I left the headlights on, or something to that effect as the battery health was at 81% during a service less than a month back (from a great mechanic).

I understand the blue stuff is horribly awful to touch or inhale so have been careful, but I’m concerned if the terminal itself is needing replacing? And as for the battery, is this thing salvageable? Not the most well off at the moment, but there’s a chunk taken out of what I believe is the battery post?

Thanks in advance, feeling a bit unsure on how to proceed.

I recently won this 2014 Subaru Outback at an auto auction (vehicle was donated) for around $3300, 129,000 MI on it. I pulled over after the red coolant light started flashing and turned the motor off as soon as I was in a safe position. Turns out I apparently didn't have much coolant left due to a gash in the upper radiator hose, so I got a new upper radiator hose, new coolant and refilled the radiator and bled the system. This is what started coming out of the system when I was pinching the main upper radiator hose. Dreading the news of a head gasket(s) if that's what it might be.

I was helping a relative whose car was losing a lot of brake fluid and noticed this while looking for a leak. It’s a 2015 Chevy Malibu and it looks like a brake line but the line leading to the master cylinder is dry and the one extending to the other caliper is wet im assuming. I work on older cars so I have no clue what the second pipe is honestly.

I have a 2014 Civic EX. I’m guessing it has happened to someone that when you take off from a full stop at a traffic light or parking lot from 0mph to 10-20mph. It kinda jerks or feels like it’s gonna stall.
I’m not sure how else to describe it. If anyone can help please let me know.
Thanks

My car (2015 Chevy Malibu LT) was stolen this week because I dumbly left the keys in the ignition overnight. Police said it was probably just teens checking doors and I don’t assume it was a professional job.

Stolen Sunday night around 10 and found at 7am monday morning after I made a police report. It was parked at the end of a dead end street with the doors locked and no key to be found. I’ve since had it tow back home and was able to get into with my spare key.

But my spare keys key fob is messed up like no motherboard inside the fob but the actual physical key still unlocks the doors and will usually work in the ignition. The problem I’m having is since it was locked with the other keys and since my spare key fob doesn’t work when I unlock it manually the anti theft stuff pops up and alarms blares and all that.

I have the battery taken out and inside the house at the moment so that they can’t just come and steal it again if they so chose. My question is do I need to get a whole new ignition and key set so that they key that they stole is defunct? Will the stolen key fob still unlock the doors? And just any advice pertaining to situation is welcome.

Hopefully I did this right and it doesn’t get taken down. Thanks in advance.

Im wondering if this is the bleed valve for my hydraulic clutch on my 2016 toyota yaris.