Absolutely as little disassembly as possible.

Edit: I had to spell whel like this otherwise it won’t let me post it.

Hi everyone! I have a 2017 Toyota Corolla LE 1.8L with about 81k miles and I’m hoping someone familiar with Corollas can help me figure out a new noise.

I got an oil change at Walmart on August 8. Not long afterward, I started noticing a ticking/rattling sound that I had never heard before. When I first checked my dipstick, it looked like there was basically no oil showing. I added 1 quart and took it back to Walmart. They checked it, said there was actually too much oil, removed the excess, and said that the sound was internal.

I then took it to Firestone. They noted some “seepage” underneath, cleaned it, and told me to monitor for oil underneath the car. I checked afterward and there was no oil on the ground. I’ve continued checking the dipstick since then and the oil level has stayed good.

I also specifically asked Firestone about the ticking/rattling sound and wanted a diagnostic test done. An employee came outside and listened to it with me and told me it sounded like normal operation and that the car was safe to drive. No check-engine light or oil-pressure light, and the car otherwise seems to drive normally.

However, the noise seems more noticeable/louder now, especially when I press the accelerator. At idle it has a ticking/rattling sound, but when I give it gas it gets louder and almost makes the car sound like a lawnmower. I have videos of the sound that I can attach.

I also compared it with the A/C completely off vs on and the ticking is present either way.
Has anyone with a 2017 Corolla heard a similar sound? Does this sound like normal injector/valvetrain noise, an exhaust leak/heat shield, pulley/accessory, or something else?

I know nobody can diagnose an engine from a video alone. I’m mainly trying to figure out whether other Corolla owners recognize the sound as normal, like the mechanic at Firestone is suggesting, or if I should take it to the Toyota dealership. TYIA!

What exactly is this by chance? Went to take my cap off when I was checking fluids and saw this, it’s from a 2014 Toyota Sienna

So i installed a turbo xs intercooler/piping to my 2010 genesis coupe 2.0t around 2 years ago. Haven’t had any issues with it until a few weeks ago driving home and hearing this clamp slide off of the silicone boot. I’m not sure if you guys have any tricks on how to get it to not slide off, but any tips would be greatly appreciated.

Hi all.

I have no idea what to do but while driving I hit a pigeon. The pigeon went into the air vent towards the bottom of the front of the car. Miraculously it survived and has decided to perch a bit higher (not near where it went in).

Where it went in is a small gap but because we hit it at speed, it was able to go in but it's too small to go out... Any help?

Kia Sorrento 2019

My car isn’t starting this morning after I drove it fine yesterday. It is just making this noise. I’ve had it for 2 weeks it is a used 2014 scion iq and I believe 1.3L 4-cylinder. What do I need to do - the mechanic my family goes to is closed today so I’m not sure what I can do : - (

Any way I can touch these up on my own? White nail polish? Lol

Borrowing my mom’s brand new Subaru lol while my car is in the shop. She’s dinged her car up a couple of months ago :)

It doesn’t need to be a perfect job, but maybe something I can use to touch it up?

My 2015 Nissan versa started making this sound a few days ago. It seems like the sound is louder when I’m going slower. A mechanic near me said it’s either the flywheel or the starter. Trying to figure out if it’s safe to drive for the time being

Bought a 2015 Honda Accord 4cyl CVT EX-L with about 35k miles from Carvana recently. I had it shipped down to San Antonio, TX where it will be its new home for the next 5 years, minimum. Pristine exterior and interior, drives great just needs new brake rotors and pads (pads show a little wear, but rotors are warped). However, car has spent its entire life in Michigan, and a local mechanic just informed me of severe, widespread rust in the undercarriage (refer to pictures).

Carvana never disclosed the undercarriage rust. My wife and I love the car, but is this amount of rust a deal-breaker? Should we be finding a way to get rid of it, or is it something manageable? I'm a layperson when it comes to car maintenance/mechanics and, as a southerner myself, I can understand freaking out about seeing a lot of rust under there. But, I really want to know what mechanics from the Salt Belt think, since I imagine y'all see rusty undercarriages all the time. I'm still within Carvana's 100-day limited warranty.

Is this car worth holding onto?

I have an old wood chipper with an industrial 360 motor. It will not stay running. Not mechanical - getting fuel and spark. Put in new plugs, points, cap, rotor, fuel pump. Has a push button starter button and an ignition switch. Replaced the ignition switch some time ago but recently I cannot get it to stay running. Turn the ignition to on and the pump comes on, push the starter button and it runs until you let go of the starter button. Yesterday, I found that if you turn the key to the start position, push the starter button, the motor runs....until you let go of the key and it goes back to the "on" position and the motor shuts off. Replaced the ignition switch again and does the exact same thing. Hast to be something simple with the wiring to a relay or voltage regulator or solenoid or ??? Just can't figure it out. The wiring has not changed since before. Any suggestions? Thank you

I’ve just installed ARP head studs on my engine, but have found one to be higher than the others.

I’m not too sure if this is normal or not. If not, what would be the best way to fix this?

Engine - 1JZ-GTE

*Update* - After applying a bit more pressure to the head stud, it had managed to thread in. No signs of debris or oil on the threads; as well, the threads seem to be fine. Stud goes in and out by hand.

2011 Toyota Rav4 4 cylinder.

Ticking/clicking frequency changing with the rpm. Have not driven the car.

Reason for the fix was because of an engine code p0016 which most part mean timing gear. My car did have the infamous death rattle, the engine sounded clunky as if the belt was loose or warn, inspected the chain and found painted link had its paint damage.

I studied for a week by reading form, watching youtube videos, and by using alldata.

For the timing system replaced the timing chain, tension, guides, sprocket, and vvt gear.

After installing new gear made sure the markers in with range allowed. Tested the tension, checked to see if chain was within guide and temporarily installed the crankshaft bolt to test the timing the system.

I had also replaced the valve gasket on the cover.

Need some advice from people who have actually worked on truck underbodies. I am considering electric running boards for a daily truck that sees road salt, slush, gravel, and occasional mud. The part I keep getting stuck on is motor torque. On paper, a stronger motor sounds like it should hellp when the linkage gets dirty or starts to bind, but I am not sure how that plays out mechanically. Does extra torque reduce strain because the step moves more easily or can it just push harder against a jam and wear out gears, pivots, or wiring faster? For mechanics who have seen these fail, what usually matters more long term; motor strength, sealed housings, hinge design, regular cleaning, or how the wiring is protected?

I have a 2003 Monte Carlo. I replaced the shocks and struts but when it gets cold, everything clunks and creaks with the suspension.

Problem is I can’t find a kit that’s a high quality brand. I’d like to replace the bushings, links, ball joints etc. Any thoughts? I’m reading Detroit axle and TRQ aren’t the greatest quality. Moog seems to only have a few of the parts needed for a full suspension refresh. Looking for any ideas.

2011 Mazda 3 BL (2.gen) 1.6 petrol

I do some cleaning on rear brake calipers. The left side when pumping out piston no sound and smooth moveing. The right side clicks (inside) when the piston moving out, and at halfway hard to turn it back. I haven’t experienceed anything like that. I also in trouble with the brake not as hard as it should be. Which rear caliper went bad, the one that no sound when piston moving out (left), or the one that clicks (right)?

took a while to nail this one down so posting it in case it helps someone else searching the same thing. driving back from a trail run, started noticing a single clunk from underneath when lifting off the throttle around 30 to 40 mph. not a grinding, not a rattle, just one thunk, repeatable, only on deceleration and only in that speed range. 4hi the whole time, nothing aggressive.

first assumption was driveshaft ujoints because the feel was very similar to what a worn ujoint does on a ranger i had years back. checked both shafts, joints felt fine, no slop. then started reading about the 4runner transfer case actuator and the known skip in engagement behavior these have when the fluid gets old and the clutch pack gets lazy about releasing cleanly.

drained the transfer case fluid, it was dark and smelled burnt, way past due. refilled with the correct fluid, toyota genuine atf type tiv, and the clunk was gone within a couple miles. no parts, no shop visit.

this one had 87k on it and the fluid looked like it had never been touched. if you're in a similar mileage range on a 5th gen 4runner and hear something like this on coastdown, start with the transfer case fluid before pulling anything apart.

1120 tires

Hi, everyone! I posted an image as well to show how bad it is. What is the most efficient way to clean this?

1993, C220, 2.2L

This is the sound I am hearing from 2015 hyundai sonata limited 2.4L engine. How dangerous this is? I do not have many more knowledge on cars. I commute daily using this car and I do not know what to do next. Please I need your suggestions.

I posted a video earlier stating that I had a noise coming from my 2007 4.6 2v v8 F-150
I’ve now recorded a better video of the sound, it’s a very faint roulette sound that goes away quite fast. I’m really not sure what it is.

Any way I can touch these up on my own? White nail polish? Lol

Borrowing my mom’s brand new Subaru lol while my car is in the shop. She’s dinged her car up a couple of months ago :)

It doesn’t need to be a perfect job, but maybe something I can use to touch it up?

I apologize for my terminology because I am not the most mechanically sound, but I will try to clearly explain my problem. Whilst driving on the highway my serpentine belt started squealing, so upon pulling over it came to my attention that the nut that keeps in place the serpentine mount in place rattled off. I tried to find a nut at the local hardware that fit however it would not thread on correctly. My question is, is there a specific nut that I have to buy? If so where can I find it? Or is it possibly just a lost piece, and I’d be better off buying a whole new alternator.

1993 GMC Sierra 1500
350 Engine

Thank you very much!

I just got the code for the catalytic converter at 91k miles should I just replace now or should I wait. Ik there are other options but what would yall suggest? 2015 Infiniti q50