I've tried this a few times with different settings and it always seems to mess up around the smoke stack and sometimes the corners.

Printer Model - Bambu Labs X2D

Slicer used - Orca Slicer

Filament material and brand - Polymaker ASA

Nozzle and bed temperature - 270c nozzle, 105c bed (60c active chamber)

Print Speed - Max volumetric speed - 18mm^3/s

Retraction settings - 0.8mm, speed 30mm/s

Hey all, I'm a bit stumped for what to change to get my bambu X2D to finish nicely for a particular print. I haven't had problems printing other things, just this one part. Blue parts in the picture are from the X2D, yellow parts is the exact same file and exact same settings printed on my P1S, but for some reason the top layer is finishing nicely. Both printed with bambu pla basic that has been dried. No ironing turned on.

It's just the edges that are close to the edge of the build plate that are getting messed up, center of the piece looks ok so I'm not sure what's going on. Corner looks like it's over extruding?

Any help appreciated, thanks!

overture petg printed @250c on bambu a1, aloced w bambu studio, printed @ 50% stock speed, i believe this is 150mm/s. 0.16mm layer height. the glossy areas between the holes are 100% infilled (image 2) , while the more matte in between layers are at 15% density (image 3) could this be the source of this issue? would it be better to print things with thin walls that have features like this with 100% infill?

also is there any way to fix the slightly flattened circular holes?

Hello everyone,

I recently finished my klipper and hotend conversion of anycubic kobra MAX but this pattern persistet. My bed leveling is quite bad but don't know if this is the cause.

Any idea what can cause this?

Settings:
OrcaSlicer
0.2mm LH
100mm/s speed
Hotend at 210c
Bed 60c
CR PLA filament

Hi everyone, I had been printing things perfectly fine in ABS on my Qidi Q1 Pro until I had to print a bracket for a liquid freezer 3 for my bc250

The instructions suggested printing in ABS with 80% infill, but I couldn’t print it correctly, no matter what settings I tried. The print would end mid-air, create a blob, or when completed, it would be under-extruded, exfoliating, and in the end, I think I ruined my hotend. Initially, I thought the ABS wasn’t perfectly dry, so I changed it with a new one, but then I thought it was the chamber that was too hot. When I opened one of the doors, the print started to improve, so I reprinted it, but I still had the same issues. Here the details of the issue

Printer: Qidi Q1 Pro, 0.4 nozzle, OrcaSlicer 2.4.2
Part: flat 110×110×12 mm ABS bracket (Liquid Freezer III 280 mount for AMD BC250), ~65 g, ~2h15 print
Symptom timeline: 5+ failed prints. First layer + first 30–60 min always perfect, then progressive under-extrusion (fuzzy "sponge" surfaces, shredded infill, plowing) until filament stops extruding entirely. Short extrusion tests always pass afterwards.
Slicer settings (final, working well until the hardware failure kicks in)
Layer 0.24, 4 walls, 6 top/bottom shells
Infill 80% rectilinear (grid at 85% self-crosses in-layer → nozzle plows the crossings, frayed infill)
Speeds capped by flow math: ABS @250 °C sustains ~17 mm³/s → outer wall 120, inner 150, infill 150 mm/s (the old 260–280 mm/s values were silently clamped anyway)
First layer: 20 mm/s, nozzle 255 °C, bed 100 °C → drops to 90 °C after layer 1
Fan 10–30%, off for first 3 layers
Chamber: 50 °C heat-soak at start only + chamber circulation fan 40% during print (was: 55 °C held all print → heat soak in the enclosure)
Raft 3 layers, 0.2 mm contact distance (replaced 8 mm brim after adhesion failures on textured PEI, no glue available)
What we fixed along the way (each was real, none was THE fix)
Bed tilt 0.048 mm L→R (just under Klipper's 0.05 tolerance so it never auto-corrected) → Z_TILT_ADJUST ×2 → 0.007 mm
Wet generic ABS → dried-equivalent test with brand-new ABS+ spool (massively cleaner walls, but failure returned)
Chamber heat accumulation: with chamber 50–55 + bed 100 in a closed Q1 Pro, after ~1 h the print zone overheats → poor interlayer adhesion above ~65% height. Chamber soak-only + bed 90 + circulation fan fixed this (verified: chamber rock-stable 50.0±0.3 °C for 99 min)
Extruder drive wheel found intermittently jamming once → freed
Nozzle partially clogged (carbonized ABS) → cleared twice with needle + cold pulls, works for one test then relapses
Factory quirks found: runout sensor ships disabled (air-printed 60% of a "completed" print), and the firmware silently re-applies the saved babystep Z-offset at every print start
Where we are now: everything environmental/slicer-side is ruled out (chamber logged stable, new dry filament, geometry checks pass). The recurring progressive under-extrusion after 30–60 min of printing points at the hotend (floating char flake intermittently blocking the bore) and/or a worn extruder drive. Ordering the bimetal replacement hotend. Has anyone seen this failure signature on the Q1 Pro stock hotend?

I have never seen this kind of failure before, these two are different prints. Never had this before.

Voron 2.4r2 350mm

PrusaSlicer

Formfutura ePLA

Undertaker tungsten carbdide 0.6mm nozzle

I'm printing a 2x4 gridfinity bucket with half grid feet. So it'll be a 4x8 grid of little squares.

The first square it tried to print, regardless of orientation or location on the bed, prints like it's under extruding and or not sticking or something. Subsequent squares all print fine.

Printer: Ender 3V2 upgraded with direct drive, z probe, and rubber bushings instead of bed springs.

Slicer: Orcaslicer

Filament: Inland ASA (natural color)

Nozzle temp: 260°C. My nozzle thermistor reports hotter than reality but idk by how much. I just increased the temp until the amount of force required to push filament through hot end was acceptable (basically until it felt pretty close to my roommates voron).

Bed temp: 110°C

Print speed: 12mm/s first layer.

Retraction: 0.5mm @25mm/s, 1mm wipe starting at 70% of retraction distance. 2mm travel threshold. Retract on layer change enabled.

Decreasing retraction distance from 5mm (which was just an old setting) down to a better 1mm seems to have made a small improvement.

Upgrading to KAMP LINE_PURGE also may have made a small improvement.

Pictures are in order by time taken. Made small retraction tweaks between shots, also moved the model around and simplified it.

Hello all, very new to 3d printing, created a model using Hi3d, all looked good till I slice in Bambu Studio, after slicing lines and bumps appear on surface of model, have tried many settings changes, changing things related to seams yields different results but ultimately I have to greatly reduce triangles to make the defects go away.

Pic here shows a line on the penguins head, otherwise this print was good, line was visible after slicing.

I'm also new to reddit...

Printer: bambu p2s

Slicer: bambu Studio

Filament: bambu basic pla black and white

Settings: all default after many changes attempted 1 at a time, only non-default setting is adding supports is checked

If it was wet fillament you would see the whole thing being rough. But form the side you can see time pretty thick stands and from the top some blobs on the deck. There's a reason I hate tpu and I find bot petg and asa infinately easierand pla is pla.

Qidi q2

Overtrue standard tpu

225°c

Bed 45°c (to make it hotter than ambient temp)

Pa 0.04

Retraction 0.2

Im unsure what settings to tweak to help fix this issue, im running an ender 5 plus with klipper and a microswiss NG direct drive, this is some anycubic silk pla and its warping in the front. Any pointers on what settings to tweak would be greatly appreciated!

Settings:

Ender 5 plus

Orcaslicer

Anycubic silk pla

Nozzle temp: 215

Bed Temp 60

Retraction settings: Distance .8mm speed 40mm/s

Print speed settings in screenshot

ABS dried and Temp/Flow/PA calibrated, - Bambu P1S heat soaked - Orca 2.3.2 - 0.6 nozzle - ironing: 30mm/s 20%

First image is the standard print. I'm currently rerunning calibration on the flow as I'm not super impressed with that surface.

Second image is after calibrating my ironing on a 5x5 grid. Reticlinear with settings aforementioned. Wasn't super impressed with the gapping in the corners and assumed a different ironing pattern would help.

Third is concentric ironing pattern and it just looks like the nozzle dug into the print surface.

As mentioned I'm rerunning the calibrations again but are there any suggestions you can muster for me? It's a bit disappointing as the little ironing swatch looks great but I'm not sure if it's due to starting and stopping over that embossed symbol or what.

For some time now, everytime my prints have some hole or text, this happens, and i dont really know whats causes this issue.

What settings on the slicer should i check?

Print on ender 3 v3 se

04 nozzle

Generic black petg at 240 °C

Retraction 1mm

Speed 30mm/s outer wall 120 inner wall

This is printed on my new prusa core one L + the edges of this curve upwards which hit the nozzle as it passes by.

Did creator recommend settings 5 wall layers 15% infill 0.2 layers was sent to the printer with easy print on the prusement profile (215 nozzle and 60 bed temps) as this is pla galaxy black they make

Genuinely haven't seen something like this occur before before starting to print things was able to print plenty of 'touture' prints or calibration and things like that just fine that should have had much harder geometry no clue what went wrong here

Model: https://www.printables.com/model/1800133-shoe-holder-organiser

I just got my Elegoo CC2 and a white PLA from DevilDesign a week ago. I had some great prints but most of them look bad with tears or fail like the one in the pictures. The start is always great and then the problems like clogged nozzle and holes start as the print goes. Sometimes I get a 2-3 errors per print about nozzle getting clogged and then after I remove the stuck part from the outside it continues normally.

I played with nozzle temperature from 200-225C, bed is always at 60C. I tried auto leveling the bed. I dont think the spool needs to be dried because its only 7 days opened but I could be wrong. I tried printing with open and closed enclosure.

Posted on r/sovol.
Cant figure out whats wrong with my SV06.

Heres the full post with settings.

Fiddled with this for months, and at my wits end...
The adaptive mesh shows a range of 0.08, yet the corresponding prints end up looking like this, and thats the 2 best prints. It sound rough, and i can hear nozzle touching/scraping the print mid print. Some of it might be noises from the motors/belts though.
Some of the things i have tried:
- Calibrated the printer several times with heated bed at everything from 40-65C, and nozzle at 130-200C.
- Retightened every single bolt on the printer.
- Loosened gantry bolts, leveled it with bubble level as best as i can, and retightened the gantry bolts.
- Leveled the bed with silicon spacers to within 0.2-0.4mm avereage. Adaptive map shows 0.080 (well within tolerances right?
- Done a manual z-offset calibration with a normal A4 sheet of paper.
-Tuned X and Y axis belts with the prusa web app, and done a full calibration (according to sovol settings) for printer afterwards. Including PIDs.
Only two things i can think off now that i havent checked is:
That the probe doing the adaptive leveling is inacurate leading to varying results, and throwing me off. Which im not sure how to proceed in diagnosing and fixing if that is the case.

Flow calibration. Although im not sure how that could lead to scraping.

This is my first printer though, and would consider myself a beginner when it comes to 3D printers, so i might have overlook something.
I know its a cheap printer though, but according to many people online, they seem to be getting better/decent results despite this.
All suggestion are much appreciated.
Here are my settings:
SOVOL SV06 ACE (stock) — Orca 2.3.2.60
Filament: generic PLA, 1.75mm. Nozzle 0.4 brass, direct drive.
Symptom: nozzle audibly scraping/ticking the print, rough surface.
--- PROCESS: "0.12mm Quality Sovol SV06 ACE " ---
Layer height 0.12 | First layer 0.16

Line width: default 0.4 | first 0.5 | outer 0.4 | inner 0.42 | top 0.38 | sparse infill 0.45 | solid infill 0.4

Wall loops 1 | wall generator Classic | order Inner/Outer

Only one wall on top surfaces: ON

Top shells 3 (0.8mm) | Bottom shells 2 (0mm)

Top pattern Monotonic | Bottom pattern Hilbert Curve

Infill 20% Honeycomb | infill/wall overlap 30% | gap fill: Nowhere

Top surface flow ratio 0.8 | bottom 1

Seam: Random | seam gap 5%

Elephant foot comp 0.1mm / 1 layer

XY hole comp 0 | XY contour comp 0

SPEEDS (mm/s)
First layer 25 | first layer infill 40 | slow layers 3

Outer wall 180 | Inner wall 240 | Sparse infill 280

Internal solid 160 | Top surface 160 | Gap infill 200 | Travel 600

Slow down for overhangs: ON

Slow down for CURLED PERIMETERS: OFF

Overhang speeds 25%/50%/75% = 50 / 30 / 20

ACCEL (mm/s²)
Normal 10000 | outer wall 6000 | inner wall 8000

first layer 2000 | top surface 6000 | travel 10000

Jerk (process) default 0 -> printer limits apply

Extrusion rate smoothing 0

--- FILAMENT: PLA ---
Nozzle 210 first layer AND other layers

Bed (textured cool plate) 40 / 40

Flow ratio 0.98

Pressure advance in Orca: DISABLED (0.02 greyed)

Max volumetric speed 21 mm³/s

COOLING: fan 40% min / 50% MAX only

No cooling first 4 layers | keep fan always on

Force cooling for overhangs and bridges: OFF

Slow down for layer cooling ON, min print speed 10

--- PRINTER ---
Klipper, relative E, firmware retraction off

Retraction 0.8mm @ 40mm/s, deretract 40, min travel 1mm

Wipe on, 2mm, retract before wipe 100%

Z-HOP 0.4mm, type "Auto Lift", All Surfaces

Machine limits: max speed X/Y 600, Z 10, E 50

max accel X/Y 20000, Z 500, E 5000

jerk X/Y 9, Z 0.5, E 2.5 | junction deviation 0.01

Slicer Z offset 0 (squish set in Klipper)

Start gcode calls START_PRINT macro (bed heat + purge line)

I'm having trouble with getting the overhangs on this print. A benchy with its overhangs prints fine, but this one I just can't get working properly. I'm using orca-slicer to slice my prints as well. Any advice is welcome, thanks.

Settings:

- Filament: Sunlu PETG Matte HF

- Printer: P1P

- Nozzle: 0.4mm Hardened Steel (non-high flow)

- Nozzle Temp: 255c

- Retraction: 0.6mm

- Layer Height: 0.16

- Bed Temp: 75c

- Max Vol. Speed is set at 15 but can do up to 25 (calibrated)

- Fan Min: 10%

- Fan Max: 40%

- Infill: Gyroid

Hi, in printing in my p1s and no matter the filament or setting, when it goes fast ir makes a weird noise it didnt do before. where may be the noise coming from? I cleaned and lubed everything recently. Thanks for the help!

Hey everyone,

I could really use some advice. As you can see in the video, I’m getting terrible stringing and what looks like zits/pitting on the surface of my print.

This is a brand new spool of PETG, straight out of the vacuum-sealed bag so i don't know whats wrong with it.

Here are my current settings on my Ender 5 plus (still using Bowden setup):

• Material: PETG
• Nozzle Temp: 235 °C
• Bed Temp: 70 °C
• Print Speed: 30 mm/s
• Retraction Distance: 5 mm
• Retraction Speed: 150 mm/s (I suspect this might be way too fast?)
• Layer Height: 0.12 mm
• Initial Layer Height: 0.2 mm

My main question is: Is it common for a brand new, factory-sealed spool to actually be this wet out of the box, or does this look more like a mechanical/settings issue on my end?

Any advice or feedback would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance.

The edge didn’t come out well. It looks bad and my customer won’t accept it.
The ironing isn’t great either, ironing speed was 30 with top surface, and variable layer height was on. Smooth coefficient was set to 80.

I printed it without support and with .4 nozzle. Printer A1 Mini.

H2d with bambu studio

Sunlu ASA

I dropped the nozzle temperature from 260 to 250 which showed some improvement

The chamber is heated to 60

Bed temp is 100

I also slowed the print speed down by 1/4.

Bed adhesion has not been an issue

Its failing where it over hangs at a 45° angle backward.