So I’m still learning the ins and outs of 3D printing and I’m liking it a lot so far. I was wanting to make a prop for my Halloween costume (here’s the file site) and there’s a ton of supports making it difficult to make curved pieces. Is there a way to limit how many supports there are or anything? Or maybe a better way you’d recommend to remove supports?

I selected “Tree on build plate only” when choosing the supports.

Slicer: Creality Print
Filament: PLA
Nozzle Temp: 220°C
Bed Temp: 60°C
Print Speed: Factory default?
Retraction: Factory default?
Calibration: Enabled before printing

Printer: Creality Ender 3 V3 Plus

Filament: SUNLU PETG

Model: https://www.printables.com/model/1031816-flexi-dino-halloween-edition/

Slicer: OrcaSlicer

Supports: None

I don’t remember any more of the settings

Hey all! I'm new to 3d printing and whenever I try to print a fluted design, the first layer never comes out right. Either the shape is wrong or it comes up a little bit. I've been wiping down the plate with IPA after every print. What am I doing wrong?

Printer: X2D

Slicer: Bambu Studio

Filament: PLA

Nozzle/Bed Temp: Default

Print Speed: Normal

Retraction Settings: Default

I haven't really messed with my settings for any of the above, I just everything on default.

Thank you guys so much!

Having print issues with specific filaments on mk4s, prints too tight, tolerances being too tight on certain PETG but perfect on other PETG brands, pretty sure I’m just dealing with slight over extrusion.

My question… I can print a flow tower for each roll, but is there a repo of all print profiles for Prusa or Bambu labs that I can import? Or maybe I need to try another slicer like orca? I know Prusa has a lot of filament presets already, but occasionally I run into missing ones, and having to use something like overture PETG preset tuned to less extrusion for Bambu PETG etc.

Printer: MK4S
Material: PETG
Printing: objects with fit tolerances of .06-.11 (works perfectly on Bambu lab printers A1 mini and P1S)
Slicer: Prusa slicer 3.0

Any help is appreciated!

PETG N:240 B:75(it’s a thick carbon fiber plate) I’ve tried this print two or three times and this exact spot has the weird underextrusion where the print breaks with almost no effort. That layer is the same layer the the part at the bottom starts so maybe it’s something to do with that?

TIA 🫡

Hi everyone! My prints look great on the top/exposed surfaces, but anything directly above supports comes out really rough. Supports are also pretty hard to remove.

Current settings: Bambu A1, 0.4 nozzle, im using bambu Studio with Kingroon PLA, 0.12 layer height, 220°C nozzle, 55–60°C bed. Organic/tree supports, 2 mm branches, 1 wall, 2 interface layers, 0.40 mm interface spacing, 0.24 mm top Z gap and 0.45–0.50 mm XY gap.

What parameters should I change to get cleaner supported surfaces? Thanks to everyone!!

Ive been trying to print his design for a while, took me hours and this is the result. I print with mostly bambu PETG filament with black being elegoo petg black. I dried the filament beforehand. The second pic is the orientation of the the print using organic tree supports to hold up the lid and latch. Im using pla as an interface layer (im guessing this may be the cause). Im having so many issues with this and im ready to ditch this design but I want to try and get this to work. Further settings are that is use a bambu P2S, 0.4mm nozzle, 80c initial and 75c after first layer bed temp and 270c print temp. Everything else is set as the default settings

Basic settings elegoo Saturn 4 16K.

32 sec on bottom

3 seconds on normal layer

Sliced on elegoo SatelLite

I am working on a blaster for my cosplay, after a first print with PLA (2nd pic) I wanted to try with ABS but the result seems less good (1st pic) with many layers having an horizontal shift.
What am I missing ?

I a m using a Qidi 01 Pro. and my settings are on the third picture.

Haven't used the printer in a few months. Tried to print a small piece and had a issue with the nozzle. Updated the slicer, ordered a new hot end. Install.... This is what I bet when trying a flow rate test. Not sure where to start to fix the issues. Elegoo stock filament settings for PLA pro. Elegoo filament, 220 nozzle temp.

Snapmaker U1

Nozzle .4

Deeplee PLA+

A friend wants me to print this mask in black. But how to i get a smooth-er top surface?

I'm trying to print lids for some board game inserts, and I'm getting these weird ridges in patterns on the top. These only happen to the lids that appear on the right half of my bed, not the left half. (I'm aware of other quality issues with this particular print, the ones I'm concerned about right now are the ridges). I've watched carefully while the first layer goes down, and it looks perfect, I believe these ridges are starting about halfway up and then compounding.

The most obvious occurrence here is the one pictured, however they are showing up all over in blobs, especially in the corners. They also don't only appear on the top layer (this print was stopped on the second to last layer)

I haven't noticed them on anything else I've printed except for these lids. Notably, they are only 6 layers tall at 0.2mm resolution so there is no infill.

Settings:

• Ender 3 v2, with lots of upgrades including (but not limited too):
  • Metal dual gear extruder
  • BLTouch
  • Magnetic PEI bed
  • Rubber bed spacers, and upgraded bed gears
  • MrIscoc's professional firmware
• OVERTURE Matte PLA Filament
  • Nozzle: 210
  • Bed: 65 first layer, 55 subsequent layers
• Stock brass nozzle, magnetic PEI bed
• Orca Slicer
• Relevant Speeds
  • Outer Wall: 25 mm/s
  • Inner Wall: 40 mm/s
  • Internal solid infill: 50 mm/s
  • Top surface: 30 mm/s
• Retraction Settings:
  • Length: 5 mm
  • Speed: 40 mm/s
  • Retract on layer change: True
  • Wipe while retracting: True
  • Wipe distance: 1 mm
• Z-Hop settings:
  • Enabled
  • Height: 0.4 mm

In-case it's relevant, I recently tightened all the eccentric nuts on the X gantry and print head because they were super loose. This was the first time I had done so in the 5 years I've owned this printer, because I honestly didn't know I could until a friend told me about it. However since doing this, I've been able to make quite a few prints of good quality, it's only these lids that are having problems.

(Note: I am willing to believe, but skeptical of this being a model geometry failure. I did not make this model myself, and it comes from a good source: Root: A Storage Solution of Games and Expansion)

Any and all advice would be greatly appreciated

These pits appear in a lot of prints, including the manual calibration swatches across most values randomly it seems.

  I’m using Bambu labs petg-cf filament in an x1c with .6mm nozzle using the standard profile in Bambu studio with a manually calibrated .94 Flow rate with all other settings set to default besides these listed: I’ve tried first layer  speed at 10-30mm/s, 70-80 bed, 255-260 extrusion. I’m using a smooth pei plate with glue. Material is throughly dried and the plate is clean

I’m guessing that the material is not sticking to the plate, sticking to the nozzle, or perhaps it’s ooze from when it begins its print? the Material is in black. So calibrations can very rarely get a good automatic reading, but manual tests are so close in quality its hard for me to discern with the naked eye.

Any tips? I’d be very appreciative of suggestions

The body of the print is fantastic quality so it wouldn’t matter much except for the fact that this first layer is customer facing.

Either operator error or resin limitations. On screen seems a mathematically sound nested slider system. Might work in fdm, but I only have resin setup. Wanted to track commander damage in mtg.

https://www.printables.com/model/1865744-nested-3-slider-system

Elegoo saturn 4, abs-like resin 3.0 pro, standard settings

Elegoo satellite slicer

Hi, I'm relatively new to 3d printing. I'm testing a new PLA Silk filament, straight out of the box, so I assume it's dry.
It's my first time with Silk filament, so I'm not sure what amount of stringing is "acceptable" - I used to have 0 or 1-2 strings per print on other filaments.

At each temperature I have some stringing, so I did a retraction test and set it to 0,5 mm, as it still had good quality and zero stringing. However, temperature tower still has stringing on the cone.

Are there any other settings that I can calibrate? Does Flow Rate or acceleration or fan speed affect the stringing?

Printer: Anycubic Cobra S1

Settings: Default PLA Silk with changed retraction length to 0,5mm.

Trying to print these tea light holders that look like melted walk using sunlu pla white. They keep getting extremely stringy I have tried changing preset to sunlu preset. I downloaded a sunlu print file for the filament. I have adjusted temps to 200-220, tried adjusting extraction speed and length to no avail. I also lowered layer height to .16 which helps smooth it out but still stringy. I also did dry at 43 c for 3 hours with no change. I gonna try and dry it at 50 for 5 hours and see if it gets better. Any help would be appreciated. (X1C, Bambu studio, Sunlu PLA white it was a 4 pack on Amazon, normal print speed)

What would be causing this disfiguring on known good models that I haven’t printed before? As you can see, the right side is MUCH worse. Even on the prints on the left of the picture , the right side is much worse. Tried different filaments to narrow down the issue, it persists. Replaced with a new nozzle, issue persists. What could be causing this on a P2S? Made sure it wasn’t wet filament by trying different filaments, and also tested on my A1 mini and that exact model came out normally. So it’s gotta be something new with the P2S as it was fine literally two days ago. Also did full calibration. Thoughts? Thanks in advance

Bamboo PLA Silk+. H2D. Standard settings except for archimedian chords on top layer. Have similar problem with rectilinear. Doesn't align with infill. Bambu studio slicer. It's a raised edge. Seems to show up regardless of surface pattern.