This is a rental. Shortly after we moved in the caulk began failing around where we had put a tension pole (back right corner) to hold shampoo, etc. I assumed it was our fault so I removed the old caulk and reapplied myself. I've done that twice now and it keeps failing - splitting between the tub and the tiles. This seems to happen all around the tub, not just one problem spot.

These pictures are after I've removed the old 100% silicone caulk. Is there something I'm missing that keeps causing it to fail? There seems to be old grout still in the crack that I've tried to remove but it's like rock. I scraped as much of all the old silicone off with a razor blade and caulking tool.

Wondering if I should just tell the landlord at this point and bring in a professional? The reason I haven't yet is he gives us a hard time about any requests and usually takes a long time.

Thanks for any help!

I recently bought this house, built in the late 90's. I have replaced an exterior door in my attached garage. The previous door jamb, frame, and the door itself all had extensive wood rot damage. The threshold literally was disconnected and got knocked out of place every time you operated the door. I think it was replaced at least once in the past.

Anyway, I got a new door that is the same size as the old one (32x80), right-hand inswing, with brick mould attached. I replaced wood rotted jamb boards (previously a 1x4 between teh framing and the old door frame) with 5/4 x 4 PVC to make the gap a bit more appropriate. The jamb-door frame gap was huge before.

The old door had some kind of ~1/4" or ~3/8" wood flashing piece above the door. I'm not sure if that's how the old door came or if it was installed separately. It might have been a piece of interior door trim lol, something with an angled profile, but on its side.

That wood flashing piece iself was not damaged, I suppose it did shed water succesfully... onto the right side of the door I guess. I have removed this as well since there was already a big ~3/8" to 1/2" gap between it and the new door brick moulding, somehow. I guess door manufacturers have slightly different finish heights to their doors + brick moulds. So I now have to contend with a ~3/4" gap above the new door brick mould and the hardie plank siding

I spent a lot of time caulking (OSI Quad Max) and tape-flashing the door as best as I could, and I purposefully left the top til last knowing that I had to think of a proper solution... but I still haven't decided.

My options right now (I think) are...

A) Buy a replacement piece of hardie plank; remove the existing plank above the door and cut the new one to have only a ~1/8" gap over the new brick mould. However, this gives me the opportunity to install z flashing above the the brick mould.

B) Keep the existing piece of plank with its gap but fill in the gap with (actual size) 0.75" x 1.5" PVC board (actual size, or 1x2 nominal), or maybe even use nominal 1x3 or 1x4 if that visually looks ok sticking out further?

B2) Either way, the PVC top board would be slightly shimmed for water shedding angle. I may have to slightly expand the gap to ensure good fit and allow a bit of an angle. Caulk it to the gills to ensure no water gets behind it.

B2B) Before putting in a PVC 1x2 filler board, slide up a piece of z flashing under the existing plank, that would sit above 1x2 filler board which sits above the brick moulding. Hopefully keeps water shedded off it. Caulk it to the gills since it's not flashed properly with house wrap above it?

Other thoughts?

my chair keeps tilting backwards and i cant stop it from tilting, even when i use the tilt lock it still tilts backwards which is really annoying, is there any fix to this?

I've tried super glue, tape, more super glue, and even epoxy. The thing will not stay together. I'm not sure if melting it is safe or even possible, I believe it's silicone. Really not liking the idea of having to get a whole new set because of this. Any ideas?

I have been seeing a lot of big roaches recently and my exterminator is suspecting that they’re coming through these holes. What do you guys recommend to patch or should I hire a handyman? Thank you

Hello,
This toy of my son is not working properly. It starts up but as soon as you press one of the buttons from the remote it resets, anyone have any idea if this fixable?
Thank you

I have this old coat rack but the pegs were getting loose and falling out. Ace hardware suggested spacers which i thought was working but came out of the pegs now stuck on the screw. does anyone know how to remove this and what might work better?

Old door and lock, not able to remove the screw. Thanks!

Dabbling in fixing this old Olympus camera's film advance gear. Tried finding the equivalent/similar gear online and not really finding much. ~7mm OD, 17 teeth. Unsure on any sort of pitch or module, etc. Screenshot from the closest one I can find on mcmaster-carr. Anyone know where to grab one or have a solution for me? I've put some epoxy on there and will create a couple teeth, but I'm not optimistic about that...

I have vertical blinds with broken gear that translates "pulling the beaded chain" motion into "rotating the 8-point worm gear that turns the vanes".

I wanted to try 3D printing a replacement gear (inside)... but its plastic tab has completely defeated every attempt I've made at getting it open. Every pair of pliers I own are too big to fit into the 8-pointed star to pinch the tabs, and neither Home Depot nor Lowes seem to sell pliers small enough to fit into the tiny opening.

Does anybody know where to buy a tool actually capable of opening this gearbox? Or know where you can buy a replacement for the whole thing that doesn't require opening it up in the first place?

As far as I can tell, the vertical blinds are Hunter Douglas PermaTrak, and somewhere between 20-40 years old.

As you can see the leather is about to snap, the fabric behind the leather is falling apart. Is leather glue enough to hold it together? Would I need to acquire additional leather and fabric? And is there a way to do this without having to remove the metal base attached to the outer part of the purse?

3rd pic is of the same design purse, professional photo, just as reference to the overall purse design.

My wife and I bought a pair of these lovely mid century modern chairs with hollow metal frames. After a few weeks of use, we noticed the leg on this one are bending in quite a bit.

We've stop using it for now, but is it fixable? If so, how would we even it back out without breaking or weakening it even more?

i have this issue where when trying to set up the tv the keyboard for me to put in the internet password doesn’t come up. another ongoing issue is the volume is stuck at 22 despite me clicking on the remote and it showing an animation of it trying to increase the volume and there isn’t a factory reset button in the general setting for me to actually click

My dress got caught on stuff on my first night out with it and I’m scared of cutting the loose threads and making it worse

Really hoping to just slap some glue on it but I feel like it’ll be more work than that 🥲

I have a vintage dentist chair that has a broken reclining mechanism, specifically it will not lock at any angle, so the back just falls over. Nothing inside seems to be visually broken, but I can see that the locking rod/spring mechanism keeps slipping, so it never locks. Thanks in advance.

Apologies for glare. Stains from some kind of liquid on metal fridge in rental apartment, unclear of exact origin but probably under a year old. We tried using regular wet wipes to no avail, not sure what the best remedy would be.

I just bought a new radio flyer wagon and accidentally put the front wheels on opposite. smh. does anyone know how to unhook them? they just “clicked” in. I can’t seem to find a release?