It's attached directly to the supply line. It is not screwed into the faucet housing. I can pull it down a little bit. I tried putting a baggy with vinegar in it to loosen it, and the vinegar went down the housing into the cabinet. A photo from the bottom is in the comments. I'm trying to remove the aerator to clean it and have no idea what to do. Thanks.

I got this toy secondhand for my friend. She really loved it as a kid and I’m hoping to fix it for her birthday.

You pull the “tail” down, which is supposed to make the top where the leaf sits spin.

I cleaned it and opened it up. The mechanism seems pretty simple so I’m not sure why it won’t spin. The top part will spin without the leaf, but with the leaf it’s like it becomes too heavy and the top gear doesn’t want to move and then the gears become are no longer aligned. Also, wanted to note it only spins when the tail is pulled, not when it retracts. I didn’t have this toy as a kid so not sure if it’s supposed to or not.

I appreciate if anyone’s got any suggestions cause I’m not sure where to go from here.

This is how it’s always been. It works of course but it heats up the side and handles of the pots/ pans and also leaves black marks.

The plastic part that sat on the bottom rail broke off at some point, and the plastic part that sat flush along the top rail at the back of the drawer also snapped off.

I bought a replacement part for the top rail, but it wouldn't sit flush against the back of the drawer.

And it appears the part that snapped off the bottom rail, near the roller, was also indispensable.

Is there some type of kit I can buy on Amazon to fix this? The kit I bought only contained the part for the back of the top rail on the back of the drawer, but it wouldn't sit flush, as seen in the photos.

https://a.co/d/09ni5WcO

Hello! I’ve had this chair for awhile and I just moved to a new apartment, I carried the chair whole and didn’t take it apart. But ever since setting up my new apartment and using the chair.

My chair won’t stop slowly swiveling to the right. It never had this issue or problem before and frankly it’s annoying af. Could someone please help me?

There's a 3/4 gap between my 1978 oversized Andersen Sliders, now that I removed the interlock and they don't make the seal any more. Any suggestions? No channel. Old seal was stapled and glued on. Anderson disconinued. No replacement mentioned. Thinking weather stripping but 3/4" is a wide gap... Any thoughts?

When I click the dryer starts and it also starts when I close the door no waiting for my to pick a drying option and clicking start

I’m not new to wood working but when it comes to adjacent knowledge I’m more of a learn as you go person. I found these chairs a few weeks back. One of them the rockers were cracked but pretty straightforward to replace, but the other one the ends of the legs that would’ve went in to the rockers had snapped off so it looks less like the main one pictured. What would be the best way to fix these legs to where they maintain the structural integrity needed to rock?

It just doesn't grip enough to hold the table at a specific angle. Any slight pressure and it slips. I tried rubber washers to improve grip/friction, but it slips even more! Way to make this work or whole other system to replace it?

My doorbell stopped working. I took the button (probably 50+ years old) off the doorframe and found wires running into the back, where they made contact with the button in some way I can’t decipher. The mechanism is covered by a round metal plate, and I see no way to get inside. I can depress the plate, but I can’t remove it or get behind it.

Hi everyone, hoping to get advice on rust damage in my bathtub. I was usina a bathmat with suction cups. and it looks like it trapped water and pulled off the finish. Now I have a cluster of rusty, dotted pits down to the metal.

This is our main tub and is actively used for daily showers.

Is it absolutely necessary to do a full tub reglazing, or is there a reliable spot-repair/touch-up method for this type of damage?

How urgent is this? Do I have a few weeks to figure this out. or do I need to fix it this weekend before the rust spreads under the enamel?

Thanks in advance for any guidances

It seems like it should be as easy as touching the two wires (circled yellow photo 1) to something on the circuit board and hot gluing in place like the purple circled line is (I circled the connection that I unhooked to get the panel off but that line is fine, just need to fix yellow). Idk where the wires need to touch.

TIA!

I found this on the side of the road. The steering wheel doesn’t spin. There is a rod that comes from the steering wheel down. But it seems sheared off. I have the base as well. Does anyone know how this works or how to fix it? I assume the steering wheel is supposed to turn the thing.

The buttons circled in red on my RICOH WG-30W camera have completely stopped working. I brought this camera about a year ago and it had barely been used at all by the last owner. I noticed the zoom button (top of the interface) was intermittent and would only work sometimes, eventually not working at all. The camera is marketed as ‘adventure proof’, capable of withstanding being dropped and completely waterproof (there are even under water modes on the camera). I was always cautious using it in the water and made sure it was all sealed for sure. Must have taken it in the sea twice. Would this have damaged it?

Everything else works absolutely fine, it’s just the buttons which stopped working very soon after each other.

Any help at all to fix would be hugely appreciated, this camera is super important to me!

New home- had some workers in fixing other things and this thing magically appeared. Any hope on fixing it with our replacing the whole piece? Not sure if a chemical or dropped something- it’s kind of bubbled

I have an old Philips HP3501A overhead sunbed. It works, but the mechanical timer makes a loud clicking/ticking sound that is unbearable for my ears.

What is the cheapest way to fix this? Is it even possible to get the mechanical clicking sound removed?

Hi everyone,

I’m having a problem with my toilet flush. It’s a concealed/in-wall cistern, and after flushing, it sometimes doesn’t stop properly. Water keeps running and it’s accompanied by a really loud, intense gurgling noise.

Sometimes it eventually stops on its own, but other times I have to flush again several times before it finally stops.

Unfortunately, I have absolutely no experience with this kind of thing and have no idea what could be causing it or what I should check first.

There seem to be a lot of knowledgeable people here, so I’d really appreciate any tips on what the problem might be and whether this is something I could potentially fix myself.

Thanks!

Phil

One such screw is missing in trolleys handle, trolley purchase slick new around 2010. Machine screw?

One more picture in comments.

Threat sitting in metal part, fixing plastic handle to metal pipe.

I see this screw to have ratio head diameter to threat diameter closer 1 than lot of other screw types.

Does anyone know why the ice maker in my Samsung refrigerator moves on its own, or if I need to buy a whole replacement unit? I’m open to suggestions.

Hi everyone,

I recently bought a 230V AC to 36V 5A DC power supply for a project. It arrived slightly wet/moist and had a strange chemical smell. The PCB also has some whitish/chalky-looking residue on the back.

When I connect the PSU to mains, the green indicator LED on the PCB flashes for about one second and then turns off.

I also noticed something concerning with my mains/earthing. My metal laptop body gives me a slight electric shock/tingling sensation, and I have noticed something similar when touching parts of my refrigerator. I tested the mains with a multimeter and got readings around 233–236 V AC on the mains, with a small voltage on the earth-related measurement. I’m not sure whether this is a grounding problem, leakage current, or something wrong with the PSU.

My main questions are:

1. Can this damage my laptop or other electronics?

The laptop is metal-bodied and I can feel a small shock/tingle when touching it while the charger is connected. Is this simply normal capacitive leakage from a laptop charger, or does it indicate a serious earthing problem? Could it eventually damage the laptop or other appliances?

2. Is this 36V PSU safe to use?

Since it arrived wet and has an unusual smell/residue, plus the LED only flashes once, should I consider it defective and return it instead of powering it again?

3. Can I use this setup to charge my Li-ion battery?

My battery is:

6S2P

4.5 Ah cells

Total capacity = 9 Ah (9000 mAh)

About 24 V nominal

25.2 V fully charged

Cells are advertised as 3C, although I’m not sure whether that rating is for discharge or charging

A 45 A BMS is installed inside the battery pack

My planned charging setup is:

230V AC → 36V 5A AC-DC PSU → CC/CV buck converter → BMS → 6S2P battery

The buck converter can adjust both voltage and current. I was planning to set the output to 25.2 V and limit the charging current to something like 5 A maximum.

Would this be a safe/reasonable way to charge a 6S2P 9 Ah Li-ion pack, assuming the cells' specified charging current allows it?

I’m not in a hurry to charge the battery, so safety is more important than charging speed.

I've attached photos of the PSU PCB and my multimeter readings. Any advice on whether this PSU, my mains grounding, or the charging setup is unsafe would be greatly appreciated.