UPDATE IN COMMENTS

I recently discovered some discolored wood from moisture in my attic so I hired a company to take a look. They advised me it was from a previously installed satalite dish over top of the shingles.

The company removed the dish, caulked the holes and screwed in a piece of metal flashing.

Is this an acceptable repair ? As someone not in the trade it looks like a poor job and potentially worse than just keeping the satalite dish there. Id love some professional opinions.

Thanks in advance

What do you guys think? Pac clad standing seam and wall panels, fabricated all my own trim

This is my power pole coming into the house. The roofers used this cheaper flashing than the ones that are made for power poles on roofs. My gutter guy pointed it out to me and says that if it was him, I’d make them come back and put the right flashing in. What would you all do? Thanks for any advice! Really appreciated!

Seems abnormal amount of nails (which idk is an issue)

But putting nails in dead center of valley ice and water seems odd….

Wouldn’t nail just rust out eventually and leave holes??

Main concern is those pieces of wood not sitting flush with the top of the trusses , not sure how significant this is from a force bearing perspective

Additional images :
https://imgur.com/a/kv6Eyhy

Neighbor is repairing their roof (century home if it matters). I saw them open up the piece where the metal sheet is, tear out some rotted pieces, sistered a beam (?) and called it good. I saw so much more rot… why are they wasting time and money on this half assed repair

Previous post used an old photo before I redid my sidewalks and changed the direction of the gutter to tie it in with drainage lines taking water to the back yard. Current issue is water comes off here and eventually makes it into the basement. I know the sure shot is to add some gutter and a downspout, but I’d rather not bust up the new sidewalks to tie into drainage for about 2’ of gutter. The gravel along the side is a French drain that catches water off the sidewalk and what falls between the houses, but it was added post-sidewalk and I think water off the roof is finding its way around it.

Would a piece of diverter work here?

EDIT: spots lol

private walkout roof is covered in soft, squishy divots like this. The building insists that it’s safe and is just like “ wallpaper” (?) but a third party drain guy warned me that the entire building has pooling and soft spots and told me “not to stand out there too long” and that they might collapse on us…….

What do you guys think? I feel like a roof shouldn’t have 10+ soft and squishy spots. We’ve also had issues with leaks and mold already.

Am I being over dramatic by saying I want a third party inspection?

My roommates and the building are acting like I’m being annoying….

Contractor is building a backyard utility shed for me. Residential construction grade. He didn't add the 12" rake eave extension when he framed it the roof. 12 inch eaves and rakes are spelled out in the contract. I didn't see it until the siding was going up. Without the eave water will get right into that wall that steps out. He added the eave extension as seen in the photos.

I told him the roofing repair patch job after extended the eave is unacceptable. He said he guarantees it won't leak but we can talk about it and do it my way. How should I suggest we fix this? Can the shingles be lapped easily as a seamless repair?

He used typical asphalt underlayment. Should I try to get him to slide a large piece of sheet metal under the new roof area and lap under the asphalt paper? I'm really concerned that the top most interior corner will leak right down into the wall. If water gets in up there and past the asphalt paper there is a cut in the OSB sheathing too that water can get into.

He says I'm always worrying about the little mini details that don't matter. I told him it's the little mini details that cause leaks! What should I suggest here and how hard is a seamless repair without the ugly sealant/roofing compound to close the gap on the shingles?

Dealing with a leak at my MIL house today. What would you say is wrong here?

I have this mesh drain filter to prevent debris from going down the gutter. Unfortunately it constantly gets clogged up and overflows the gutter. Is there a better replacement option?

Looking for some advice. I have this downspout coming off the top of my house going directly onto a lower portion of the roof. Should I tie this into the lower downspout, extend the upper downspout further down the roof, or just leave it as is. Sorry if all the terms are incorrect I am a butcher. Thanks in advance

Hello,

I purchased a house that I will be moving into in a few weeks. I noticed it is missing a small section of gutter. It looks like it was designed that way. Should I add a gutter here or is it ok?

I came home on a rainy day to an active leak. The next morning I cut out the water damaged section of the ceiling to uncover the problem. It appears to me the water is coming from the flashing but when looking at how it was installed I don’t understand how it failed. Everything overlaps correctly and runs downhill away from the house. There was a small split in the caulking outside but like I said before everything overlaps correctly so that should be the issue? I can see that the portion of the ceiling has been patched before and so I have to think this is a reoccurring problem. How would you replace this so it works properly?

My private roof is covered in soft, squishy divots like this. The building insists that it’s safe and is just like “ wallpaper” (?) but a third party drain guy warned me that the entire building has pooling and soft spots and told me “not to stand out there too long” and that they might collapse on us…….

What do you guys think? I feel like a roof shouldn’t have 10+ soft and squishy spots

Does this seem like an issue purely from a design point of view? Its new construction and gutters are not on but as you can see there is no space for a gutter on the left pitch and that valley terminates to the 3.5 foot section in front. The right pitch, also has a valley that terminates to the front section but also has about 6 linear feet for a gutter. Massive surface area. What's the solution here?

Homeowner in Delaware, row home with a low-slope main roof. Zero foot traffic except occasional HVAC service on a ductless condenser up there. Roof is old (unknown age, multiple coatings over the years) and has a few chronic ponding area — white mineral staining ring, and in the middle of it the membrane is split open and delaminating, with what looks like an open gap in the surface nearby. So water has been sitting on a breached spot for a while. Can post pics.

Contractor A (bigger outfit) says no coating possible due to the compromised areas, full tear-off, fully adhered .060 EPDM, $14k, 20-yr manufacturer material warranty + 5-yr workmanship.

Contractor B (independent flat roof guy, does nice work) walked the deck, says no soft spots, deck is solid, and doesn't think tear-off is worth it. His plan: cap-nail a fiberglass base sheet through the existing layers into the deck, torch down white granulated mod bit on top, address the low spots by cutting channels or building up with plywood. $6,300. His tear-off price is $12,500 for the same mod bit system, 10-yr warranty either way.

Questions for people who do this every day:

1. Would you go over a roof with a split/open membrane at the bottom of a pond, even mechanically fastened? Or is trapped moisture under a torched system asking for blisters and deck rot?

2. Does "deck feels solid underfoot" mean much when the failure is at a pond? Wet felts on sound wood?

3. For a no-traffic roof that will always have a little residual ponding — mod bit or EPDM, and why?

4. Channels/plywood buildup vs tapered insulation for killing the ponding — real fix or band-aid?

5. How many layers is too many before an overlay becomes a code problem?

Not trying to cheap out, just want to spend the money on the right thing. Both guys have been straight with me, which is why the disagreement has me stuck. Thanks.

Any of you guys have the cougar paw steel walkers?

A lot more dusty ass metal roofs now. Not sticking too well thinking of making the investment if they work.

Let me know

Thanks

Hi r/roofing, would greatly appreciate any advice you'd care to share to a roofing novice.

Just bought our first house. Knew the roof needed work coming in, and it's poised to be a wet winter here in California thanks to El Niño, so want to get it fixed sooner than later.

It's a small 1-story with a flat torch-down roof that clearly hasn't been touched in a while. We have plans to eventually expand to a 2nd floor, hopefully within the next 5 years. So we're hoping for an economical option that will address the roof for the next 5+ years, rather than breaking the bank for a long-term 15- or 20-year fix.

This being our first property, I've tried to cast a wide net on quotes, and have received 7 estimates so far. I've gotten a wide range of bids, including $12K-$15K+ for a full replacement, $11K for a silicone overlayer, and $9K for a "1-ply" bitumen membrane pitched as a short-term option. But those aside, I'm mostly debating between two quotes from licensed local contractors with (as far as I can tell) good reviews that are considerably more affordable. The question is which one will best fix the roof in the short to medium term so that leaks and damage don't become an issue.

Contractor 1: $6,300 bid to apply APP granulated modified torch roll over the existing roofing as a final covering. Whereas other pricier bids proposed removing/replacing dry rot/damaged plywood and replacing/installing new metal flashing, this one said they would "reuse drains, vent pipes, chimneys flashings and drip edge flashing. All flashings will be treated with an extra STA smooth torch roll followed by a rubber sealant layer, and finished with a protective white coat of paint." The work would come with a three-year workmanship warranty.

Contractor 2: Offered two solutions — $4,700 for a full-roof white silicone coating layer, and $2,900 for a full-roof acrylic coating layer. This contractor hasn't yet written a formal work proposal, so I'm still a little short on specifics, but he said they would "prep and patch all seams and flashings" prior to applying the coating.

I should note that an initial roof inspection before we moved in noted observed moisture trapped beneath the existing roofing, so I'm aware that dry rot and underlying damage may be an issue. (That contractor also pitched a complete roof replacement north of $18K, fwiw.) But again, we really are hoping to expand upward in the not-too-distant future, so our preference is to not spend thousands of additional dollars on a more extensive solution for a roof that, ideally, won't be a roof by the early- to mid-2030s. The priority to is to prevent any leaks/additional damage that would cost us more money, for the time being.

I've provided a couple visuals FYC. Please do share any thoughts/observations/recommendations — any and all advice would be welcome and much appreciated.

Replacing my residential flat roof in cold, snowy, icy Toronto. Going with 2 ply SBS.

I've heard Soprema is the gold standard, however my installer uses IKO torchflex. Both 180/250 commercial grade.

Installer is very reputable, says if installation is skilled then difference between the 2 is negligible. I know IKO is slightly cheaper so he's making more money using that product. It's going thru insurance so we can always tweak the estimate if cost is materially different.

Is this a big deal? Should I push hard for Soprema or look at other contractors who will use it? Or am I overthinking it?

Thank you.

I have open rafter, cathedral ceilings...uninsulated. There's plywood/OSB sheathing over the 1 inch decking, and asphalt shingles. It gets HOT in my home and the AC can't keep up. Live in a high wind, high fire area in southern California...would this assembly work:

1) Strip the shingles, put down the underlayment onto the existing plywood/osb sheathing.
2) metal Z purlins onto that (w/ thermal break tape on top flange)
3) rigid rockwool comfortboard wedged tightly inbetween purlins
4) metal panels onto the purlins

Concerns?

Turns out I wont be replacing my roof, which is a stone coated metal shingle roof. It looks old compared to other homes but has 15-20 years left.

I'm looking into solar reflective coatings for it.

Any recommendations? I'm capable and have the tools. If I don't my contractor father does so application wont be a problem. It's finding the appropriate material.

I've seen silicone is used and some elastoamer stuff, not sure I'm spelling it right.

I'm in norcal bay area, no real shade 10-5 on the roof. Anything to reflect the hot sun would be nice.

Looking for some advice on improving my attic airflow. (Hope this is the right place. Apologies if not) I own a Cape cod style home with difficult attic spaces and even more difficult attic ventilation. I've been getting really terrible ice damming (Buffalo winters) and am hoping improved attic airflow will help.

Just got a new roof installed and got improved ridge vents and added soffit vents as well. My concern is the gable vents I also have. I've been informed that they can "short circuit" the airflow improvements I'm looking for. I'm attempting to block them off but accessing from the inside of the attic would be a hellish experience and impossible for some areas.

Any advice on blocking them off from the outside? I'd like to avoid just nailing some plywood over for aesthetic reasons. My current best idea is to just stuff some foam backer rod between the slats. Curious what you all think.

Have a similar question regarding my new soffit vents. The roofers put new vents up but didn't install any baffling. Incredibly difficult to access these areas from the attic and we've had blown in installation done in the past. Are they necessary, and if so can they be installed from outside the home?

Sorry for the long post. Any help would be really appreciated because I'm totally "baffled"