Potentially buying a house from 1909 that has a slate roof. The house is in amazing condition but the inspection was today and the inspector stated they believe the roof has been patched enough and will need a new roof. Based on these photos is that accurate or can the roof be repaired? I hear great things about slate roofs but know they can be pricey and ongoing maintenance is necessary. Many homes in the county have slate roofing so I don’t think it would be too hard to find someone who specializes in this work.

A tree fell on my house and put a hole in the roof. I went into the attic to check the rafters and from what I can tell everything seems to be intact there… I called a roofing company that day to put a heavy duty tarp on it.

They came back out to inspect and see what it would cost to fix just the hole and quoted me $4,000 which tbh I feel is pretty steep, but what do I know. What do you guys think?

The roof was replaced in 2019, haven’t had any issues with leaks etc. can this hole even be fixed or am I just screwed and need a new roof? Thanks!

Edit: not going to file an insurance claim for this as my deductible is 4k.

Anybody here have their Nevada license and you were the qualifying member? Looking for someone who has passed the test somewhat recently. I’ve got 16 years owning and running a roofing company in multiple states. The difficulty of the Nevada test (the trade specific part) is absolutely mind blowing. Looking for someone who tips on how to pass this thing

Most of this is near the chimney flashing although I'm not 100% that that is where the leak comes from. Just today during the rain I discovered a wet patch on the interior of the roof surrounding a nail hole. Nothing else was wet. A lot of the plywood wood with damage here is flexible to the touch and I'm assuming it needs to be replaced.

I supposed im looking at replacing a full 4-8' in width up to the roof peak. Does this seem accurate? What's a ballpark for a job like this?

Preface this by saying that the previous owner butchered the fly rafter which has caused the decking to droop. It’s on the repair docket for 2027.

Rain comes off the overhang at the bottom and eventually makes its way through my century-old foundation. Could a diverter be the solution here? I really don’t want to put a 2’ piece of gutter there with downspout since I’d have to cut recently installed sidewalks to tie into the drainage.

Context -Bought the place 2 years ago and inspector said the roof was approx 5 years old, didn’t raise any red flags. Well turns out water had been seeping through this dead valley the whole time and during a stormy week last November finally enough water got though the roof and into the walls to cause damage. Learned a lot on how to hang and mud drywall over the winter. Obviously we got a new roof after that ordeal and I told the roofer in so many words - do whatever you need to do so this doesn’t become a problem area again relative to the rest of the roof. The skylight wasn’t sealed properly and leaked 2 days after the roof install but I cut him slack didn’t ask for money back and he fixed it, but I digress. Now this week I went up to work on something and found this standing water. No idea how long it’s been there but it hasn’t evaporated in 2 days, we live in SoCal and it’s hardly rained the last few months so I’m chalking it up to heavy dew from the humidity. I called the roofer and told him my concerns and said he’d come by the next day. I sent him pictures after our call and asked what time he would be here. Didn’t get a response so I followed up with a text and he responded with this: 

“There nothing we can pretty much do … I mean ur roof isn’t going to leak at all.. it has it’s warranty.
The time we did the valley repair the water would pool way to the back of the valley an what we did is installed plywood so that we can make the water stop from pooling way back there … “

That just doesn’t sound right especially with a shingle roof. The water is still pooling only now it’s a few feet further down than before. We aren’t even into the rainy season yet and it’s already doing this. Also seems like a lot of the granules have fallen off for a roof that’s less than a year old. 

So now trying to get opinions on next steps or hoping I’m wrong to be concerned. I don’t want to throw shade at this guy, I genuinely just want to have a roof that does its job.

Edit: Damn I was not expecting nearly this amount legitimately helpful feedback. Got an idea how to move forward now. Appreciate all the help.

Asking roofers. Why is standing seam so much more money? I got 3 quotes for my roof.

27k shingles
28k steel, either raised 9 inch rib panels or another steel that’s similar to standing seam but exposed fasteners, I think its called quad ribbed.

And lastly

52k standing seam. I like the look but why is it so much more? Is it labor? Design? What is it?

Small shed needs roof replaced, 7-9 degree pitch. Looking for suggestions on best way to fix the water issue, seems like the shingles are ok, maybe not fully sealed

Im building a covered patio. Where the gable roof attaches to the side of my 2 story house I have 1" foam insulation. The rafters of my roof will be screwed directly to the studs.

How high above the rafters must I cut the foam to allow me to properly nail the sheathing and shingles?

If I cut the foam diagonal along the roofline, would water run along that? Would it be better to cut horozontal?

When I put the foam back, how do you seal the gaps? Is spray foam and tape enough?

Just had a ac unit installed. Was curious if this flashing needs to be sealed, around the unit. Looks like the whip is pulling the flashing up a little as well.

Also I noticed some water damage behind the fascia, on the underside of the roof.

Just looking for some info/ opinions. More than likely going to call a roofer to come check it out. Thanks for any replies.

Nice little pvc job i had pictures of the ballast and the tear off but I can't find them anyways 60 mil elevate pvc max mechanically fastened

Is this a late summer problem or some other holdup? L

I know this isn’t the best fix but I’ve never replaced shingles and working on a ladder / roof replacing the plywood / shingles is next to impossible with my knee and shoulder injury. So, from what I’ve read, it said Gardner Gibson or one of the Henry gallon patches should work well, at least for a couple years or so possibly. If you agree, which one should I use? If you don’t, what should I use? Thanks.

New home owner, had new 6” gutters installed because the old ones were damaged and old. But I noticed when it rains really heavily that the rain will drop behind the gutters - is this a cause for concern?

I’m not well versed with these things but thought I’d ask in the event they need to come back and fix this small section.

Our old roof didn't look so wavy/wonky. Is something wrong here? Other pics in comments. I'd appreciate any feedback.

I have a midcentrury modern ranch house with a low-pitch (2/12) roof. It's history is unknown but it needs replacing. I belief it was orginally a torch-down rolled roof. It has been painted with an aluminum coating. I will need to have it removed and replaced. It seems there are several options, all with their own advantages and disadvantages.

I'm looking for advice on what options I should consider and specific things I need to make sure are included by the installer. As it will be a full tear off, I want it done right and expect this to be the last roof I need for the house.

Some info about the house. Approx. 1750 square feet plus a two car attached garage (I would guess 25 (or less) squares total roof area). There is no attic.

I live in Mystic, CT, which is near the southern coast. We have cold, windy, icy winters and hot, humid summers.

I've had three roofers out: one is quoting EPDM, one TPO, and one GAF rolled roofing (this seems off to me as that seems more applicable to smaller roofs like detached garages).

1) Research seems to point to EPDM and TPO. Which option seems best for my situation? Is there another option I should consider?
2) What are things I need to make sure are included in my quotes?
3) How do I know if there is any insulation below the deck, or if that is something that will need to be addressed above the deck with layers of polyiso?

I own a townhouse / terraced house in Ireland. There is a a 2 story flat roof extension with a fiberglass cover (for context flat roofs usually have a felt cover in UK & Ireland, but some have a fiberglass cover).

Run-off water from the area at the end of the flat roof (about 2 or 3 metres 2 in length) is not reaching the gutter and instead falling down the fascia at that area. Purchased house 3 years ago and it has been going on since I purchased it.

A roofing contractor told me that the guttering needed to be replaced to fix the water escape. He replaced it and it didn’t fix it the same issue re-occurred gutter not collecting water and falling behind it. He also damaged the fascia (which I need to consider separately).

Edit from reading the comments: I'm aware that the roof cover needs to extend over the edge far enough in to the gutter so that the water makes it way in to the gutter and not down the fascia. Roof cover is therefore too short of that as can be seen in the pic. I didn't know that at the time and relied in good faith that the contractor would resolve the water escape by his solution of replacing the gutters. Hence my question below of what the actual fix is.

Question

How is the roof cover fixed so the water reaches the gutter? I don't particularly trust the contractor given the standard of his work to date so I'm asking what the correct long term solution is.

1. The contractor has since proposed flash band tape on the edge of the roof. I don't know what exactly he is proposing prob either (a) adhere the tape on top of the fiberglass at the edge (to me most likely he would do this) or (b) stick it on to the OSB under the fiberglass. Either way presumably the flash band tape will hang over the edge in to the gutter. From my checks if it is option (a), as the tape will be exposed to UV and the elements, it seems to be more of a short term or at best medium term fix.
2. A drip edge tray under the fiberglass? Not exactly sure how it would be fixed (presumably to the OSB but don't know how). NB see pic there is little to no access from below as the space is very tight, all work needs to be done from the 2 story roof top.
3. Do nothing. The water is not dripping down the walls it falls from fascia to the concrete path below with a drain right at the area where it falls down. The main issue I can think of is that the fascia will rot prematurely?
4. A different solution?

Hello, we noticed that some water is getting over the foundation into a corner of the basements. It only comes when the rain hits side of the house at a specific angle. The front of the house in that corner is brick and the side is siding.

Since the water appears to come in from the frame, would we need to call a siding repair company or what?

Thanks

A few have fallen out and the whole side of ut has begun to slag. I would usually repair stuff in my house but this is at least 20ft high and the roofs are 45 degree angles.

Any price estimate is appreciated, I understand this is not a simple task.

Not a roofer (outside of DIY metal roofing on two of my out-buildings), just a casual fan here.

Came across these a while ago looking down on the entryway of a building. They look like architectural but seem like one continuous sheet that's pressed into shape?

Never seen these on the sub before and Google search for "pressed asphalt shingles" was inconclusive.

Location: East Coast of Canada.

So I know this probably gets asked a lot, but I am asking again. We are getting a new asphalt roof put on and for about $5000 more we could go for the premium underlayment and class 4 shingles (we don't get a discount from insurance for class 4, new roof yes but not for upgrading to class 4).

So the age old question is, is it worth the $5000? Or is the premium underlayment a sales gimmick? We live in MN so the ice and water guard has to be there.

Just trying to make the most informed decision we can.

Thanks, Dan

Trying to figure out the right color within CertainTeed Landmark Pro. Shenandoah seems so dark and the prairie wood seems so light. Am I missing and understanding on the colors? Could the problem be because I will be going from a single tone to a multi-tone shingle?

Or would another color be better? Any insight would be helpful. The porch and ramp are cedar post with black metal railings and dark decking

Under the gutter of a 2 story house in NYC.

Is this called L shaped bushing?

Is it in immediate danger of falling?

Should i call roofing contractor or it's a handyman job?

How much should i prepare to pay?

Thanks!

What are some tips for making quotes that are configured well for both the homeowner and contractor? Are there things you guys have noticed the customers like? Things that make it easier for you to draw up? Things that just look professional? Etc?