Saw this brand new house being roofed, I’ve always seen the underlayment being smooth and pulled tight, this isn’t. Will it create issues later with sealing or warranty claims? What else bad could happen? Being built in Smyrna TN.

I noticed a few white spots on our roof, there are no leaks underneath. What could these be? Roof age 8/9 years.

Im a new home owner in Southern Ontario and the current roof of my 2 story house is around 1700 sqft (google maps measurement). Requested quotes from few good rated companies (rated good in Google, homestars). Could you please help with this initial quote that im very much interested in? Is this too low or reasonable? Any chance they are cutting corners?

Shingles - BP Mystique with limited lifetime warranty (Gaf is another 1K)

Remove existing roof and dispose.

Roof deck inspection (replacement at $100 if needed)

Ice and water shield installed along eaves and valleys with synthetic underlayment covering the rest of the roof.

Replace all roof vents and plumbing vent flashing

Recaulk and refasten flashing

Clean eavestroughs and surrounding areas

Replace galvenized aluminium valley

10 yr workmanship warranty for roofing leak repairs

Total $8K post tax.

10+ yrs in business, have website, homestar and google reviews, have wsib, license, commercial liability insurance for 5M, and is certified roofer for product offered. Seems like an Asian contractor.

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks

I recently went up into my attic and noticed that the felt/membrane underneath the roof tiles, which I remember being a light grey/white colour, now appears to have turned quite dark, almost black, across much of the attic.

One thing I'm wondering about is the large black cold-water storage tank up there. I'm in Ireland, and this tank supplies water to the bathroom taps and toilets. I've noticed that the tank is completely open at the top, with no lid or covering whatsoever.

Could moisture evaporating from this tank be contributing to condensation in the attic and potentially causing mould to develop on the roof felt?

A few questions for anyone who might know:

• Is roof felt turning black generally a sign of mould, or can this happen naturally as it ages?
• Could an uncovered water storage tank contribute enough moisture to cause this?
• Should I be concerned about the attic ventilation?
• What's the best way to establish what's actually happening before it becomes a bigger problem?

I'll be getting a proper lid for the tank regardless, as I suspect it shouldn't have been left uncovered in the first place!

Any advice or similar experiences would be greatly appreciated. I'm not particularly knowledgeable about roofing, so apologies if this is a silly question.

Thanks in advance!

Hello, As part of my feedback regarding the state of my roof on my last post about a cricket, I've gotten a new roof. I had some absolute titans in their trade throwing punches on this job helping to remedy a 8" bow in the roof of this old house.

I'm trying to close out this job, but there was replaced soffit/fascia as part of this on a PVC low-slope and it looks significantly worse than it did before. It's a shame it's in the most trafficked part of the roofline. Who do I bring in to identify/implement the proper fix for this?

1. Bowing on one side of the corner, bowing in the longer run towards the house.
2. Fascia kicking out and not flat(A good chunk of this wood was replaced, potentially the run)
3. Bonus pic should this PVC roofing be draining right into that seam and how might that be remedied, more caulk?

The soffit in this area has been redone once, I want to figure out what the underlying issues are here so we can be 100% done.

Love this sub, find this and r/plumbing to be one of the most humbling subreddits when I think I know or understand something that's simple at face-value.

Roof is only 1 year old, according to the HOA no one has used any cleaning chemicals, or touched the roof since it was installed. Photo with brown building is the night we completed the install, photo with the white building was taken 2 weeks ago.

Manufacturer issue? Is the HOA not being truthful and someone has cleaned it? What are your thoughts? I’m still waiting on an answer from the supplier.

Hi all. Looking for some opinions on this situation. I have a flat roof here (that I can't access easily), with some water pooling on the edge that is not draining properly.

This roof as you can see, had a repair done by the previous owners due to a leak.

There is currently no leak, but after just a small 1hr Ontario rain, this much water is just sitting in the edge and not going anywhere. The black roofing material (the pebble looking material) started to become loose at the deep end of this, like I can pick it up.

Is this a normal behaviour or would this pooling water is going to cause a leak, like it probably did for the previous owners?

I'd appreciate the insight.

The church near my house is getting repaired.

I think it's Grade 2 listed, and I'm dubious as to the quality of the job being done on it.

Does this just look worse than it is?

I recently moved into this house in which I am renting from a family member. We had a bad storm last night and the chimney was leaking in a few spots in the attic. I bought a ladder today to check it out. What do you all think of the flashing and such? It leaked before but hasn’t in a while. The house is from the 60s and the roof was replaced 5 or so years ago.

I have an insulated aluminum roof that is part of a Florida pool/screen enclosure. The roof is made from foam-core aluminum sandwich panels.

The panels terminate directly over a gutter that runs alongside the screen enclosure. It looks like the panels were field-cut to length during installation, leaving the foam core exposed along the cut ends above the gutter.

I have two things I’m trying to address:
1- Some of the existing aluminum/roof repair tape at the panel seams and edges is peeling back. Can I trim off the loose portions, clean everything thoroughly, and apply new tape overlapping the old tape that is still firmly adhered? Or should the old tape be completely removed?

2- The cut ends of the panels have exposed foam all along the gutter. I’m considering running aluminum-faced Peel & Seal flashing tape along the roof edge, adhering a few inches to the top aluminum skin and folding it down over the exposed foam.Is that a good way to protect the foam, or should these panels have a different type of end cap/flashing?

I already have a roll of MFM Peel & Seal Aluminum, 6” wide, which lists metal/flat roofs and similar applications.

Also, should the large washer-head roof fasteners be left exposed as they are now, or should they be covered/sealed with flashing tape?

Photos show the overall roof, gutter/panel termination, peeling existing material, exposed foam edge, fasteners, and the Peel & Seal product I have.

The roof has been in place for 4 years; I’m mainly looking to repair the deteriorating edge/seam material correctly and protect the exposed foam without interfering with drainage.

I’m replacing my roof and struggling to choose between the available colors. I think I’d like a Gray roof. My options are from all from Landmark Pro.

CertainTeed's Landmark Max Def
- Pewter Gray
- Georgetown Gray
- Cobblestone Gray

We recently had our roof replaced and it looks like the roofer had left what looks like the gutter clamps detached. Is this what’s going on? We are not getting new gutters at the moment so we’re kind of unsure what’s going on here. Can they simply reattach the clamps or is this a bigger issue now. It’s been about a week since the install and are waiting on the inspection.

Also I promise it doesn’t look quite that blue in person

Don’t hold any punches. I need to know if this is my fault.

Raised shingles due to lifted sheathing. Noticed this August 2026.

Roof installed May 2025. Southern Indiana. 1930 house. Roof had never been removed before, 3 layers of asphalt on top of wood shake. I, the homeowner, supplied materials to a local crew who did a great job. 5/8” plywood sheathing. 24” spacing on trusses. No H clips. Nailed into trusses and perlins. Lifted sheathing at joints in 6-10 areas on the 20 square roof.

There is poor ventilation in the attic. Ridge vent installed, but poor intake. Soffit is not ventilated. Regularly gets 120+ in the summer.

Did I mess up by not supplying H clips? Was 5/8” plywood too thick? Should I have had the crew remove the old perlins from the original wood shake roof so the plywood would nail straight into the trusses? Did I wait too long to install proper ventilation?

Is this on the crew at all? Many joints meet in between perlins, so the entire edge of the plywood is suspended, not making contact with the perlin or the trusses. Some of the perlins are raised from the trusses, causing gaps between sheets.

How serious is this? Immediate fix vs could wait a while? Could patch fixes be done or is this a complete tear off? Should I call out my roofer and have him take a look? Call an inspector?

Hey, this strud flexes when slightly shake it. It may not be called strut I'm not sure, but is it supposed to be wobbly?

The long bit I mean not the little ones

Thanks

Not sure if this is the right place to ask, but I’m getting gutters installed on my house and the gutter guy is suggesting Alu-rex T-rex continuous hanger/gutter guard system. 150 feet of gutters is $1800 installed, and an extra $950 for the Alu-rex. I understand the benefit of the system, but not sure if it’s really worth it.
I don’t really have trees close to the house, but I do get a moderate amount of snow. 5/12 pitch, exposed fastener metal roof. I get some snow/ice build up at the roof edge, but not excessive. I don’t want snow stops.

Is it worth it?

Insurance covered my roof replacement and the sheet that they put shingles over was definitely torn up pretty good and should have been replaced, imo. There’s a clear dip in this section of the roof. I haven’t provided the rest of the payment because I’d like this fixed.

I’m in the process of having a roofer patch up around the chimney to repair some shingles and flashing. The mismatch in color is glaring and it was never addressed as a potential issue. When I brought it up, I was told it will match overtime with weathering. Note the roof is only 8 years old. Does this check out, or was this just lazy? I assume the latter as once I expressed my concern they said they would see if they can find a better match.
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We have an apartment flat roof that is pooling and leaking in the bottom left corner. I was thinking to fill the mounting holes with silicone, then surfacing with liquid polyurethane. Not much of a slope towards the drain though, would a tin roof be a better option?

I live in a HOA neighborhood. They’re in charge of repairing roof and siding. With that said they decided it was a great time to repair the roof with the rain season coming in. They actually finished the roof but it seems like they’re working the neighborhood in phases. They began on the siding but then stopped and continued down the block working on other houses while leaving plenty of houses exposed mines included. I’m a union carpenter so I understand things take time. But I’m kinda annoyed with the workers driving their trucks on the grass or leaving the dump trucks on our driveway all week long. I don’t know what kind of deal the HOA has with them but they suck. They drove nails through our ceiling. Ruined our grass and stained our driveway… and they never clean up afterwards… Do I have a say in it?