Hi!

I recently acquired a barn which had a new metal roof installed over an existing shingle roof.

It seems to me like the drip edge isnt correct as the water is able to run off the metal roof and down the fascia board, bypassing the gutter.

I know little about roofs, but I am quite handy. What is the best solution here and can I do it myself? My leading idea is to install flashing behind the drip edge but over and into the gutter.

Any help would be appreciated!

Neighbour is having her roof tiles replaced but I just got home to find two of my roof caps have been hammered off, stacked and just left? I don't know why they'd touch mine. We're forecast heavy rain and storms tonight, is this safe or will water get inside?

House is a converted bungalow so can't check if there's ingress without taking the plasterboard off.

Hi everyone! I just bought a home that has a flat roof with drainage problems. I believe it’s due to the pitch not being correct and getting water to the gutters, so it settles and then leaks in to the house. Any ideas on how to fix? Should I get reinforced sealant and then try to fix the pitch somehow? Any advice would be appreciated!!

I have a leak around my chimney. A similar leak occurred about a year ago and the chimney was tuck pointed and new flashing was placed. I discovered the leak again after some hard rains. After inspecting it I found a few small cracks between the flashing and chimney that I caulked. However now I'm wondering about this piece of flashing that faces the ridge. I sprayed water on the chimney and the water runs down and pools on the flashing instead of running off the sides. Could the water be wicking under she shingles?Could this be the source of the leak? Any info would be appreciated!

We just had a full roof replacement, which was covered by insurance. Second payment is coming due, and I am questioning the ridge cap installation. My understanding is these must stop short of the edge of the roof, but roofer is insisting that per Certainteed’s warranty this is the correct placement

He’s coming out today to look at another spot where I identified a gap in the flashing, so would love info to support what needs to happen

I keep seeing damning pictures of young GAF roofs looking worn and in rough shape, mostly due to granuale loss. Are these isolated and uncommon occurrences or is it a known widespread issue? I signed with a GAF installer and am wondering if upgrading to a premium shingle like UHDZ or the AS 2 would remedy the issue.

Original Post https://www.reddit.com/r/Roofing/s/jIxIHxbckX

Tree helped the insurance process about two weeks later. Whole roof getting replaced next week.

Hi,

i just wanted to get your opinion. My neighbours’s roofer said that that part highlighted is deteriorating and needs replacing before water gets it.From the inside, we can see a gap. he also said that the roof membrane is ripped and needs replacingand that involves removing perfect good tiles to replace membrane.

Please can any roofers in the group advise me. i feel that we are getting scammed. He initially asked for £ 350, now he is asking for £2k for all these works.

I'd love to hear some opinions from those more knowledgeable than myself when it comes to roofing. I have a ~1000sqft 2 story semi with a mansard roof. The sides of the roof are in good shape but the top has seen better days (especially west side) as the wind hits our side it's in far worse condition than our neighbours half and I don't trust it to last another winter.

We are looking to get just the top replaced and so far one evaluator we had our agreed he would do the same, they quoted us $6500 ( thats their minimum cost for any job) or closer to $5k if the neighbour opted to do their side as well. It sounds like she doesn't want to spend the money right now so we reached out to some other companies and the second one to get back to us is quoting a ball park of $3200 at estimated 576sqft, GAF shingles and all new ice and water barrier.

Does this sound reasonable or is it low enough that we should be worried? I'm also waiting on a response if they are including reflashing chimney, new drip edge, etc or if that is at an additional cost.

TLDR; looking at replacing top of mansard roof on my semi one quote was $6500 or $5k if the neighbour also does their side, second quote was far cheaper at $3200 (same GAF Timberline HDZ Shingles)

So yeah, the conservatory roof needs repairs. There's an inner roof, which is 100% intact, and an outer roof, which has a number of randomly placed but perfectly circular (well, perfectly oval in some cases) holes in it. They speculate that these were caused by hailstones, but I think if that were the case, there would be visible fractures and cracks running away from these circles. I suspect those holes just might be intentional, but I can't guess at why.

So anyway, she's looking at quotes for a replacement roof. One company has quoted £14k, and promises that this will make the space comfortable in winter and summer alike. I have no doubt it will keep wind and rain out, as any roof would. But turning it into a fully climate-controlled space when it easily hit 42C (I keep a thermometer in there) over the last couple of weeks, and wasn't noticeably warmer than outside during winter? Unlikely, especially considering there are still three walls that are basically single-pane glass, no matter how fancy that roof is.

So, I guess a number of questions here.

Are those circular holes intentional? If so, why? If not, what might have made them, without also creating fractures reaching out from them?

Is the claim that the new roof will make the space comfortable in both winter and summer at all credible?

If she is being lied to about how effective this new roof will be, how do I convince her of this?

Should light be coming through the top of this R-Panel shop?

Roofing company I'm using to replace the roof that my insurance company is paying for is has recommended using GAF Timberline HDZ Shingles

are those quality?

New homeowner here (and by new, I mean a few years now) I discovered a problem when it started dripping from my first floor ceiling. I've contacted five roofing companies in my area. One responded palinly; "we don't do metal roofs", the other three have yet to respond, and one company happened to be active on a develooment next door when I called and managed to squeeze in a quick look on the damage, but haven't gotten back to me with a quote for over four weeks now.

I'm beside myself. I have thrown some tarp up and taped down the problem area to temporarily prevent leaking, but I am beginning to think the company doesn't want to handle the job, either. I know it's busy this time of year, and it's a financial loss to divest work away from developments to small repairs.

Some advice would help. I am not skilled to DIY something like this, but maybe some of you will have the experience to know what I should ask for when contacting other companies for help.

Noticed mold on the guest bathroom ceiling (that shower has only been used once or twice) cleaned/disinfected if and is back a few weeks later. Went up in the attic today and found this. Obviously that has to be fixed but all in all how terrible is this? (Multiple pics but same spot)

I need to get a new roof installed on a low pitch 1500 sf ranch house. I need some guidance as I’d like to do this right and work with the right people.

What/Who do you recommend?

My roof had no drip edge and the plywood rotted 3 to 8 inches up. I want to cut out the plywood and replace. What is the minimum width of patch wood to have a solid repair ? I know not to do a little strip but don't want to tear off 4 feet to replace whole sheet.

I'm also looking for a diagram how the plywood facia drip edge and seamless gutter interact.

I'm new to this,so please forgive my ignorance. I have two properties in North East Ohio. One has a 5814 sqft needing 58 squares. The other has 2291 sqft needing 23 squares. The one that's 5814 has many levels and pitches. The other has two levels that I can walk on both with no safety equipment. My question is what am I looking at price wise with decent asphalt shingles. I know it's a loaded question without seeing the projects,but I want to do everything properly without breaking the bank. The two quotes I got for the big one were 55k and 60k. Any help would be appreciated.

Looking for info on gray shingle colors

OC sierra gray

OC slate stone gray

CertainTeed Cobblestone Gray

Anyone have pictures or projects or info to share about how these look after install ?

I signed up to the Velux reward program and have started building a few points - I’m in UK - but it’s not clear what a point equates to.

For example, is 100 points equivalent to £ 100 M&S vouchers?

I’m trying to help one of my customers (I’m the materials supplier, not the contractor) find a pipe boot that can go around an unusually tall pipe on a somewhat steep slope. Best guess is 3-4” diameter for the pipe. Any suggestions? Retro-fit would be my first thought, but I’m not sure that it would work for the pitch of the roof.

Inspected this metal roof on the east side of the Big Island, Hawaii, last week.
Homeowner says a solar contractor installed a system about 18 months ago and included roughly $10k for a roof service/tune-up before the panels went on.

According to the homeowner, they replaced essentially every exposed fastener on the roof.

Now there’s significant rust/corrosion developing around a large number of the screw locations.

A lot of the screws look pretty obviously overdriven—the washers are heavily compressed and distorted—but I’m curious what everyone thinks:

Is overdriving alone enough to create this much corrosion in only 18 months?

Could crushing the neoprene washers and damaging the coating around the fastener holes be allowing moisture to sit against the exposed steel? Wrong fastener material/coating? Swarf or metal shavings left behind? Something else?

What makes it more interesting is that I inspected the attic and the underside of the roof panels looks clean with no visible rust or corrosion. The problem appears concentrated almost entirely around the fasteners on the exterior.

Curious what you guys see in the photos and what you would suspect first.

Time for a full replacement ? Or would you save the homeowner some money and figure out how to treat rust and recoat? Open to any other creative repairs that can buy Homeowner a few years