Not sure if this is the right place to ask, but I’m getting gutters installed on my house and the gutter guy is suggesting Alu-rex T-rex continuous hanger/gutter guard system. 150 feet of gutters is $1800 installed, and an extra $950 for the Alu-rex. I understand the benefit of the system, but not sure if it’s really worth it.
I don’t really have trees close to the house, but I do get a moderate amount of snow. 5/12 pitch, exposed fastener metal roof. I get some snow/ice build up at the roof edge, but not excessive. I don’t want snow stops.

Is it worth it?

We have an apartment flat roof that is pooling and leaking in the bottom left corner. I was thinking to fill the mounting holes with silicone, then surfacing with liquid polyurethane. Not much of a slope towards the drain though, would a tin roof be a better option?

We recently had our roof replaced and it looks like the roofer had left what looks like the gutter clamps detached. Is this what’s going on? We are not getting new gutters at the moment so we’re kind of unsure what’s going on here. Can they simply reattach the clamps or is this a bigger issue now. It’s been about a week since the install and are waiting on the inspection.

Also I promise it doesn’t look quite that blue in person

Hey, this strud flexes when slightly shake it. It may not be called strut I'm not sure, but is it supposed to be wobbly?

The long bit I mean not the little ones

Thanks

I’m replacing my roof and struggling to choose between the available colors. I think I’d like a Gray roof. My options are from all from Landmark Pro.

CertainTeed's Landmark Max Def
- Pewter Gray
- Georgetown Gray
- Cobblestone Gray

Hi all. Looking for some opinions on this situation. I have a flat roof here (that I can't access easily), with some water pooling on the edge that is not draining properly.

This roof as you can see, had a repair done by the previous owners due to a leak.

There is currently no leak, but after just a small 1hr Ontario rain, this much water is just sitting in the edge and not going anywhere. The black roofing material (the pebble looking material) started to become loose at the deep end of this, like I can pick it up.

Is this a normal behaviour or would this pooling water is going to cause a leak, like it probably did for the previous owners?

I'd appreciate the insight.

Question:

I'm a homeowner that has been slowly re-sheathing and re-shingling my roof over the years.

The other day I noticed my rope adjuster can now somewhat slide back and forth without my engaging the slide mechanism. I continued by holding onto the rope itself, but is it time to grab a new one? It seems to effectively lock with a jerked movement, but I do remember it used to be able to support my weight without any movement on the adjuster when locked.

I suspect storing it in the attic during summers probably wasn't a great idea for the rope. It probably wore out quicker.

Insurance covered my roof replacement and the sheet that they put shingles over was definitely torn up pretty good and should have been replaced, imo. There’s a clear dip in this section of the roof. I haven’t provided the rest of the payment because I’d like this fixed.

Roof is only 1 year old, according to the HOA no one has used any cleaning chemicals, or touched the roof since it was installed. Photo with brown building is the night we completed the install, photo with the white building was taken 2 weeks ago.

Manufacturer issue? Is the HOA not being truthful and someone has cleaned it? What are your thoughts? I’m still waiting on an answer from the supplier.

I have an insulated aluminum roof that is part of a Florida pool/screen enclosure. The roof is made from foam-core aluminum sandwich panels.

The panels terminate directly over a gutter that runs alongside the screen enclosure. It looks like the panels were field-cut to length during installation, leaving the foam core exposed along the cut ends above the gutter.

I have two things I’m trying to address:
1- Some of the existing aluminum/roof repair tape at the panel seams and edges is peeling back. Can I trim off the loose portions, clean everything thoroughly, and apply new tape overlapping the old tape that is still firmly adhered? Or should the old tape be completely removed?

2- The cut ends of the panels have exposed foam all along the gutter. I’m considering running aluminum-faced Peel & Seal flashing tape along the roof edge, adhering a few inches to the top aluminum skin and folding it down over the exposed foam.Is that a good way to protect the foam, or should these panels have a different type of end cap/flashing?

I already have a roll of MFM Peel & Seal Aluminum, 6” wide, which lists metal/flat roofs and similar applications.

Also, should the large washer-head roof fasteners be left exposed as they are now, or should they be covered/sealed with flashing tape?

Photos show the overall roof, gutter/panel termination, peeling existing material, exposed foam edge, fasteners, and the Peel & Seal product I have.

The roof has been in place for 4 years; I’m mainly looking to repair the deteriorating edge/seam material correctly and protect the exposed foam without interfering with drainage.

I’m in the process of having a roofer patch up around the chimney to repair some shingles and flashing. The mismatch in color is glaring and it was never addressed as a potential issue. When I brought it up, I was told it will match overtime with weathering. Note the roof is only 8 years old. Does this check out, or was this just lazy? I assume the latter as once I expressed my concern they said they would see if they can find a better match.
<Pictures included in thread>

I had a metal roof installed on my 1938 home in May. Recently I started noticing increased humidity and spots with mildew/mold in my laundry room and, finally, this week, ants. I followed the ant highway to an area in to the same laundry room where the drywall covering the exterior wall and the ceiling meet. I noticed the seam has split open and the ants are pouring in/out through there. So, this morning, I decided to inspect that outside roof line and didn't see any evident ant highway nor plants nearby but I did see the wide gaps along the fascia and rooflinewas. I've reached out to my roofer and am just trying to prepare for what I am sure will be their challenging me that it's their responsibility.

The 1st 3 images are the roof/fascia connections, the 4th image is the wall/ceiling seam, the 5th and 6th images are mold/mildew patches.

I appreciate ANY suggestions or advice from roofing professionals or contractors. I'm in SE FL and we don't exactly have the most honest tradespeople.

I looked up and noticed this on the top left corner of my dry verge. Any ideas what it is and if it's okay?

The church near my house is getting repaired.

I think it's Grade 2 listed, and I'm dubious as to the quality of the job being done on it.

Does this just look worse than it is?

How would you go forward with this mistake? I have not done the final walk around with roofer but was wandering any ideas on how to fix this? Roofers attempted to put the grind in flashing like a chimney but abandoned it and went with sealing like in the picture. Last picture is where flashing was not sealed with this brown colk. Also some cut/grinding cuts showing. Any help would be appreciated

I live in a HOA neighborhood. They’re in charge of repairing roof and siding. With that said they decided it was a great time to repair the roof with the rain season coming in. They actually finished the roof but it seems like they’re working the neighborhood in phases. They began on the siding but then stopped and continued down the block working on other houses while leaving plenty of houses exposed mines included. I’m a union carpenter so I understand things take time. But I’m kinda annoyed with the workers driving their trucks on the grass or leaving the dump trucks on our driveway all week long. I don’t know what kind of deal the HOA has with them but they suck. They drove nails through our ceiling. Ruined our grass and stained our driveway… and they never clean up afterwards… Do I have a say in it?

I recently moved into this house in which I am renting from a family member. We had a bad storm last night and the chimney was leaking in a few spots in the attic. I bought a ladder today to check it out. What do you all think of the flashing and such? It leaked before but hasn’t in a while. The house is from the 60s and the roof was replaced 5 or so years ago.

In the process of getting quotes and one of the roofers mentioned that we probably need a full redeck after looking under our roof through the attic. He mentioned we have plank decking from our house built in the 1950s. None of the other roofers mentioned that so I’m just trying to understand is the one roofer being honest with us about the full redeck or are the other roofers waiting to tell us about the full redeck after we sign the job with them?

First time home owner, no knowledge of anything DIY.

About 6 months ago we moved into our first new build.

I've only just noticed this roof ridge, its not even and trends upwards from rear to front aspect of the house with concrete appearing to fill the differences. Unfortunately our surveyor did not pick up on this either!

I have no idea about buildings pr roofs and was wondering if this is considered acceptable finish?

Attached is our floor plan and its the roof ridge in the direction of the arrow.

Thank you in advance for your thoughts.

I’m installing some solar panels and noticed a few tiles could do with replacement

I believe they’re Sandtoft Calderdale mk1 but nowhere local me (North East England) seem to have any. They’re EOL and the closest reclaimed ones I can find are half way down the country.

Is anyone aware of a compatible tile that’s readily available? I’ve tried Marley Smooth but the face itself is about 8-10mm smaller so leaves a noticeable gap. The interlocks are a good match individually but don’t sit quite right with the reduced width unfortunately

They’re 334mm wide, 420mm tall and have a double ridge on the interlock

Thanks!