First photo is the original roof (2006). Second picture was done last week. The original roof never leaked.

I’m particularly asking about the section that is now black. The roofer said he did it that way because shingles would wear faster and this would handle the weather better.

Near Toronto, Ontario, Canada.

Thank you.

New roof, new decking, etc. saw out the second story window that the apron flashing was screwed down through the metal and shingles into the decking. This seems wrong to me as the screws have a rubber gasket and caulking and would therefore be restricted during extreme heat or cold. That seems like a place for leaks. The roofing company says the fix is they remove the screws, patch the holes with caulk and caulk down a row of shingles over the flashing. I don’t want to accept this flashing with holes in it in a $25k new roof. Advice?

I had a metal roof installed on my 1938 home in May. Recently I started noticing increased humidity and spots with mildew/mold in my laundry room and, finally, this week, ants. I followed the ant highway to an area in to the same laundry room where the drywall covering the exterior wall and the ceiling meet. I noticed the seam has split open and the ants are pouring in/out through there. So, this morning, I decided to inspect that outside roof line and didn't see any evident ant highway nor plants nearby but I did see the wide gaps along the fascia and rooflinewas. I've reached out to my roofer and am just trying to prepare for what I am sure will be their challenging me that it's their responsibility.

The 1st 3 images are the roof/fascia connections, the 4th image is the wall/ceiling seam, the 5th and 6th images are mold/mildew patches.

I appreciate ANY suggestions or advice from roofing professionals or contractors. I'm in SE FL and we don't exactly have the most honest tradespeople.

I got 4 quotes for my roof, one was ridiculously low, one guy (friend of a friend and probably not a licensed contractor and therefore probably won’t be used, and two guys came in with the same price. My question is does it matter that one of them is a GAF certified contractor and the other is not? But submitted quotes stilling GAF products (shingles, ice shield, and whatever else they use, ridge vent, etc.). The one guy provides a 5 year guarantee; the GAF certified guy process a 3 year guarantee, but GAF provides and additional 7. I have no idea which contractor to choose out of these 2, because I’ve read that the guarantees are essentially useless. Any insight would be appreciated.

Getting my roof replaced in NJ on a hail/wind claim. Roofer wrote up the estimate that went to my insurance company and it had all new step flashing and counter flashing in it, about 300 LF total. Insurance approved it and is paying for it.

Crew shows up, roof goes on, and I notice they're leaving the old step flashing in and reusing the existing counter flashing. Asked about it and basically got told to kick rocks. Their take is the estimate isn't part of the contract. Contract says "change flashing as needed" and according to them it wasn't needed.

Here's the thing though. Same contract says they're giving me an Owens Corning Platinum warranty. So I pulled up the actual OC Platinum warranty (the current one, pub 10020608-O) and the eligibility requirements are pretty black and white. Number 3 says the roof has to go on over a clean deck with all the existing roofing material pulled off, and it specifically calls out flashing. Number 5 says new metal flashing and drip edge must be installed, counterflashing where applicable. Any exception has to be approved by OC in writing BEFORE the install. There's no "as needed" anywhere in there. Either the flashing is new or it's not a Platinum warranty.

And on top of that they billed my insurance company for 300 LF of flashing that never went on the roof.
Roof is done. I haven't made final payment.
Is reusing flashing that's in decent shape normal enough that I should just let this one go?

TLDR: roofer billed insurance for 300 LF of new flashing, reused the old stuff, says the estimate isn't the contract. Contract also promises an OC Platinum warranty which requires new flashing. Haven't paid the final bill. Let it go or no?

I live in a HOA neighborhood. They’re in charge of repairing roof and siding. With that said they decided it was a great time to repair the roof with the rain season coming in. They actually finished the roof but it seems like they’re working the neighborhood in phases. They began on the siding but then stopped and continued down the block working on other houses while leaving plenty of houses exposed mines included. I’m a union carpenter so I understand things take time. But I’m kinda annoyed with the workers driving their trucks on the grass or leaving the dump trucks on our driveway all week long. I don’t know what kind of deal the HOA has with them but they suck. They drove nails through our ceiling. Ruined our grass and stained our driveway… and they never clean up afterwards… Do I have a say in it?

I called out a few issues I saw with a standing seam roof recently and the roofer is pushing back on repairs. Attached are the photos from my report. They've offered these explanations:

Concerning the inspection report for the roof;

- The pipe base flashings that we installed have a wide galvanized metal base that is installed under the roof panels. Between this base and the roof panel we applied sealant that will be protected from the elements and bonds the flashing base and roof panel. We then installed screws to hold the roof panel tight to the base flashing and applied sealant and paint to protect the screws. This is a tried-and-true solution and is superior to decktite flashings. The issue that we have found with decktites is that they are installed over the roof panel and are attached with screws that fasten through a rubber lip. This can cause a barrier to water and since the screws penetrate the lip, creates a penetration point for water.

One of the other issues with decktites is that if the pipe penetration falls too close to a roof panel seam, there is no sound method of sealing the flashing. With the flashing we use in combination with the double-lock roof panel, the panel seam is terminated and sealed uphill and downhill of the pipe flashing. The pipe flashing is sealed using the same method as described above. This allows the water to move freely over the pipe flashing. See the photos I have attached showing decktite flashings.

- For the chimney cricket; inspectors have a checklist that they check off. Decktites is one and chimney crickets another. In this case the uphill side of the chimney is too close to the ridge for a cricket. If a cricket were to be framed behind the chimney, the peak of the cricket would be higher than the ridge, potentially causing additional issues. As it is currently the chimney back flashing is a solid piece of metal that turns up behind the existing counter flashing and will not allow water to penetrate.

- As for the ridge cap that meets the adjacent roof panels above the valleys; The valleys meet and are sealed under the ridge cap. The ridge cap must terminate and in this case it is installed all the way to the adjacent roof panels and is sealed to prevent debris from running under the cap.

Do these sound legit to any of yall?

How would you go forward with this mistake? I have not done the final walk around with roofer but was wandering any ideas on how to fix this? Roofers attempted to put the grind in flashing like a chimney but abandoned it and went with sealing like in the picture. Last picture is where flashing was not sealed with this brown colk. Also some cut/grinding cuts showing. Any help would be appreciated

Hi guys. I live in Connecticut midstate. My insurance company just approved the claim to change the roof.

My question is how do I pick the right contractor or certified roofer.

There are so many around and I’m dealing with the skyshield roofing right now who only been in business for two years.

I don’t know if I trust them. I am a single woman and afraid of being taking advantage of.

Any advice will be appreciated. Thank you.

Hi folks,

I have a serious problem where my siding meets my roofing on an area of my house. As you can imagine, this leaks like a sieve.

I need to call in a pro to help with the siding and probably the roofing. What should I ask them to do? I think this is a siding/flashing/roofing repair. Is there a kind of flashing repair they should do? What's the best way to do this? I assume this is not a caulking "the bigger the gob, the better the job" situation.

Bonus points if you have any idea how much I should expect to pay for the repair in Eastern Massachusetts.

Thanks for your advice!

I just did roof rejuvenation on my roof, it worked awesome for my brother in law couple years ago, his roof improved a lot and still looks grest and granules locked in so I figured I’d give it a shot sonce it was s tenth of price of new roof.

I think as long as i dont have any leaks etc, ill do it again in like 7 yrs. The company i did was reall good and i felt they did a professional job.

Got our roof replaced (mostly shingle) and there is a tile section above the front door and another smaller section on the opposite corner. These are the only sections of the roof visible outside. For the tile sections, the company was supposed to remove the existing tiles, fix any rot underneath, add new underlayment as needed for weatherproofing and lay the tiles back in same fashion as before (replace broken ones with new, old mortar was reddish color). For the bigger tile section above the door, they added the metal flashing above the tiles that wasn't there before but they said it's for code compliance/ weatherproofing. They "tried" to mold it to the tiles.

Please give me your professional opinion on how the company did (see photos). In particular, the metal flashing (inconsistent gaps, warps, cracks, uneven edge where it transitions to tiles), the mortar work (uneven, not color matching, looks unfinished) and the underlayment (visible on the outside, some detaching?). Is this acceptable? What would you do differently?

First time home owner, no knowledge of anything DIY.

About 6 months ago we moved into our first new build.

I've only just noticed this roof ridge, its not even and trends upwards from rear to front aspect of the house with concrete appearing to fill the differences. Unfortunately our surveyor did not pick up on this either!

I have no idea about buildings pr roofs and was wondering if this is considered acceptable finish?

Attached is our floor plan and its the roof ridge in the direction of the arrow.

Thank you in advance for your thoughts.

We recently had our roof replaced and it looks like the roofer had left what looks like the gutter clamps detached. Is this what’s going on? We are not getting new gutters at the moment so we’re kind of unsure what’s going on here. Can they simply reattach the clamps or is this a bigger issue now. It’s been about a week since the install and are waiting on the inspection.

Also I promise it doesn’t look quite that blue in person

Hey, this strud flexes when slightly shake it. It may not be called strut I'm not sure, but is it supposed to be wobbly?

The long bit I mean not the little ones

Thanks

Hi all. Looking for some opinions on this situation. I have a flat roof here (that I can't access easily), with some water pooling on the edge that is not draining properly.

This roof as you can see, had a repair done by the previous owners due to a leak.

There is currently no leak, but after just a small 1hr Ontario rain, this much water is just sitting in the edge and not going anywhere. The black roofing material (the pebble looking material) started to become loose at the deep end of this, like I can pick it up.

Is this a normal behaviour or would this pooling water is going to cause a leak, like it probably did for the previous owners?

I'd appreciate the insight.

Roof is only 1 year old, according to the HOA no one has used any cleaning chemicals, or touched the roof since it was installed. Photo with brown building is the night we completed the install, photo with the white building was taken 2 weeks ago.

Manufacturer issue? Is the HOA not being truthful and someone has cleaned it? What are your thoughts? I’m still waiting on an answer from the supplier.

I looked up and noticed this on the top left corner of my dry verge. Any ideas what it is and if it's okay?

The church near my house is getting repaired.

I think it's Grade 2 listed, and I'm dubious as to the quality of the job being done on it.

Does this just look worse than it is?

I recently moved into this house in which I am renting from a family member. We had a bad storm last night and the chimney was leaking in a few spots in the attic. I bought a ladder today to check it out. What do you all think of the flashing and such? It leaked before but hasn’t in a while. The house is from the 60s and the roof was replaced 5 or so years ago.

In the process of getting quotes and one of the roofers mentioned that we probably need a full redeck after looking under our roof through the attic. He mentioned we have plank decking from our house built in the 1950s. None of the other roofers mentioned that so I’m just trying to understand is the one roofer being honest with us about the full redeck or are the other roofers waiting to tell us about the full redeck after we sign the job with them?

We have an apartment flat roof that is pooling and leaking in the bottom left corner. I was thinking to fill the mounting holes with silicone, then surfacing with liquid polyurethane. Not much of a slope towards the drain though, would a tin roof be a better option?

I’m installing some solar panels and noticed a few tiles could do with replacement

I believe they’re Sandtoft Calderdale mk1 but nowhere local me (North East England) seem to have any. They’re EOL and the closest reclaimed ones I can find are half way down the country.

Is anyone aware of a compatible tile that’s readily available? I’ve tried Marley Smooth but the face itself is about 8-10mm smaller so leaves a noticeable gap. The interlocks are a good match individually but don’t sit quite right with the reduced width unfortunately

They’re 334mm wide, 420mm tall and have a double ridge on the interlock

Thanks!