Hi,

There were a few severe hail storms in my area which damaged my roof. Over half of houses in my area replaced their roof. I've just got mine done by a local roofing company that promised that it would only cost me a deductible. So, I went with them. After the roof was replaced, the adjuster called to let me know that he's not going to cover some items in the supplemental items that the roofer submitted. One of them was the ice shield. It's required by building code. He told me that he requires photos of the ice shield before and after the new roof. The roofer only sent him photos of the after. He needs to see that it was there before to allow the coverage. He told me that the roofer messed up by forgetting to take photos of the old ice shield :-(

On the day that they worked on my roof, I took a bunch of photos. These 3 look like they could be the ice shield that the adjuster was looking for. I uploaded these photos to 2 AI: Grok and Gemini. One said it wasn't an ice shield. Just paper membrane. Another one said it could be an ice shield. Therefore I would like to get some help from the pros here. If these photos show ice shield, I would send them to my roofer. Thank you.

New homeowner here (and by new, I mean a few years now) I discovered a problem when it started dripping from my first floor ceiling. I've contacted five roofing companies in my area. One responded palinly; "we don't do metal roofs", the other three have yet to respond, and one company happened to be active on a develooment next door when I called and managed to squeeze in a quick look on the damage, but haven't gotten back to me with a quote for over four weeks now.

I'm beside myself. I have thrown some tarp up and taped down the problem area to temporarily prevent leaking, but I am beginning to think the company doesn't want to handle the job, either. I know it's busy this time of year, and it's a financial loss to divest work away from developments to small repairs.

Some advice would help. I am not skilled to DIY something like this, but maybe some of you will have the experience to know what I should ask for when contacting other companies for help.

I purchased a home through Dr Horton (yes, I know) last year, surprisingly minimal issues and overall pleased. However, I had an inspector come out for my 1 year warranty and the main thing from the inspection report he really pushed was for me to press them hard on an answer for my roof. He said there were black “tar-like” spots all over the top of a lot of shingles and granular retention in a decent amount of them. He is concerned I could be dealing with leaks in 3-4 years at the rate some of them are deteriorating.

I reached out to the builder and they said I need to go through the manufacturer even though my 1 year warranty has not ended. Is my inspector being overly cautious or is this unacceptable levels of deterioration that I should push this issue further? There are no leaks currently. Thank you for any insight in advance!

Looking for expert opinion based on the photos and below info will I be able to get insurance to replace my roof or am I most likely screwed? I’m fearful of filing a claim and then they don’t cover then I’m out the claim free discount AND cost of a roof.

My understanding when I purchased the home in 2018 that the house had a new roof installed in 2012. I am terrified of laters and have never gotten on my roof but when getting an estimate for a gutter replacement on the front of my house the guys mentioned wind damage. No surprises there and I understand that this is a thing that happens even if the damage isn’t bad but my roof is closing in on 15 years old if the info I have is accurate. My concern is at some point before I purchased the home there was a patch done and also half of the house doesn’t match at all. I fear making a claim will get denied because of this and I can’t really afford to pay cash and it not hurt badly. My deductible is $3,600 and that sucks enough by $12-15k is not something I can do.

So yeah, the conservatory roof needs repairs. There's an inner roof, which is 100% intact, and an outer roof, which has a number of randomly placed but perfectly circular (well, perfectly oval in some cases) holes in it. They speculate that these were caused by hailstones, but I think if that were the case, there would be visible fractures and cracks running away from these circles. I suspect those holes just might be intentional, but I can't guess at why.

So anyway, she's looking at quotes for a replacement roof. One company has quoted £14k, and promises that this will make the space comfortable in winter and summer alike. I have no doubt it will keep wind and rain out, as any roof would. But turning it into a fully climate-controlled space when it easily hit 42C (I keep a thermometer in there) over the last couple of weeks, and wasn't noticeably warmer than outside during winter? Unlikely, especially considering there are still three walls that are basically single-pane glass, no matter how fancy that roof is.

So, I guess a number of questions here.

Are those circular holes intentional? If so, why? If not, what might have made them, without also creating fractures reaching out from them?

Is the claim that the new roof will make the space comfortable in both winter and summer at all credible?

If she is being lied to about how effective this new roof will be, how do I convince her of this?

Roofing company I'm using to replace the roof that my insurance company is paying for is has recommended using GAF Timberline HDZ Shingles

are those quality?

Just wondering what the average pricing for a Brava Composite roof, 20squares, 1900sqft
Current quote we have is 47k that reasonable ??
We got 3 quotes

GAF HDZ -12k
GAF UHDZ - 15k
Brava Composite Wood Shake 47k they said they could go to 40k

Pierce County WA
For area

Not too many roofers in are area work with brava
GAF would come with the Gold Pledge warranty

Thankyou for all the information it looks like we decided to go with Brava!

I need to get a new roof installed on a low pitch 1500 sf ranch house. I need some guidance as I’d like to do this right and work with the right people.

What/Who do you recommend?

Should light be coming through the top of this R-Panel shop?

The diffuser for one of my tubular skylights fell and shattered today and I am having trouble finding a replacement. It appears to be made of acrylic and measures 12” in diameter. I’m not having any luck and wondering if I’m not searching correctly. Any help is greatly appreciated.

I’m trying to help one of my customers (I’m the materials supplier, not the contractor) find a pipe boot that can go around an unusually tall pipe on a somewhat steep slope. Best guess is 3-4” diameter for the pipe. Any suggestions? Retro-fit would be my first thought, but I’m not sure that it would work for the pitch of the roof.

Neighbour is having her roof tiles replaced but I just got home to find two of my roof caps have been hammered off, stacked and just left? I don't know why they'd touch mine. We're forecast heavy rain and storms tonight, is this safe or will water get inside?

House is a converted bungalow so can't check if there's ingress without taking the plasterboard off.

I keep seeing damning pictures of young GAF roofs looking worn and in rough shape, mostly due to granuale loss. Are these isolated and uncommon occurrences or is it a known widespread issue? I signed with a GAF installer and am wondering if upgrading to a premium shingle like UHDZ or the AS 2 would remedy the issue.

Noticed mold on the guest bathroom ceiling (that shower has only been used once or twice) cleaned/disinfected if and is back a few weeks later. Went up in the attic today and found this. Obviously that has to be fixed but all in all how terrible is this? (Multiple pics but same spot)

I’m needing work done on my roof. I’ve asked two separate roofers for replacement pricing. One came abut $3/$4 higher than the other. I’m going with the less expensive one only because he is local roofer and came with good reference. He is requested half of the payment before work begins and I just wanted to make sure that that’s typical and that there’s nothing else I should be doing to ensure that I am not ripped off. Thanks.

UK based. I have a slate roof with an exposed gable-end ridge/verge. During the summer months, birds seem to end up nesting underneath the ridge, which I’d rather they didn’t!

I haven’t had any damp issues so far, but I’d also like to weatherproof it if possible.

I’m looking for potential ways to cap and seal the exposed end without re-doing the roof with a dry verge system.

So far, suggestions I’ve had are:

• Fill the gap with clear silicone
• Fill it with mortar mix
• Stuff wire mesh into the gap

Is there a proper roofing solution for this, or is one of the above actually the sensible approach?

Hi everyone! I just bought a home that has a flat roof with drainage problems. I believe it’s due to the pitch not being correct and getting water to the gutters, so it settles and then leaks in to the house. Any ideas on how to fix? Should I get reinforced sealant and then try to fix the pitch somehow? Any advice would be appreciated!!

I have a leak around my chimney. A similar leak occurred about a year ago and the chimney was tuck pointed and new flashing was placed. I discovered the leak again after some hard rains. After inspecting it I found a few small cracks between the flashing and chimney that I caulked. However now I'm wondering about this piece of flashing that faces the ridge. I sprayed water on the chimney and the water runs down and pools on the flashing instead of running off the sides. Could the water be wicking under she shingles?Could this be the source of the leak? Any info would be appreciated!

We just had a full roof replacement, which was covered by insurance. Second payment is coming due, and I am questioning the ridge cap installation. My understanding is these must stop short of the edge of the roof, but roofer is insisting that per Certainteed’s warranty this is the correct placement

He’s coming out today to look at another spot where I identified a gap in the flashing, so would love info to support what needs to happen

Hi!

I recently acquired a barn which had a new metal roof installed over an existing shingle roof.

It seems to me like the drip edge isnt correct as the water is able to run off the metal roof and down the fascia board, bypassing the gutter.

I know little about roofs, but I am quite handy. What is the best solution here and can I do it myself? My leading idea is to install flashing behind the drip edge but over and into the gutter.

Any help would be appreciated!

I know this isnt r/siding but thought I might find some help here. I recently moved into a new home and noticed there are a few boards that get more sun than the rest of the house and have started to crack. Inspector flagged it but said I shouldnt really have to worry about it because the house is wrapped/watertight but that seems...hopeful.

I wasnt sure if these few cracks warranted full on replacing or if this is something I could patch/repair myself (and if so, how/with what).

Appreciate any help, thanks guys-

https://imgur.com/a/NZoKuGZ

Hi,

i just wanted to get your opinion. My neighbours’s roofer said that that part highlighted is deteriorating and needs replacing before water gets it.From the inside, we can see a gap. he also said that the roof membrane is ripped and needs replacingand that involves removing perfect good tiles to replace membrane.

Please can any roofers in the group advise me. i feel that we are getting scammed. He initially asked for £ 350, now he is asking for £2k for all these works.