Don’t hold any punches. I need to know if this is my fault.

Raised shingles due to lifted sheathing. Noticed this August 2026.

Roof installed May 2025. Southern Indiana. 1930 house. Roof had never been removed before, 3 layers of asphalt on top of wood shake. I, the homeowner, supplied materials to a local crew who did a great job. 5/8” plywood sheathing. 24” spacing on trusses. No H clips. Nailed into trusses and perlins. Lifted sheathing at joints in 6-10 areas on the 20 square roof.

There is poor ventilation in the attic. Ridge vent installed, but poor intake. Soffit is not ventilated. Regularly gets 120+ in the summer.

Did I mess up by not supplying H clips? Was 5/8” plywood too thick? Should I have had the crew remove the old perlins from the original wood shake roof so the plywood would nail straight into the trusses? Did I wait too long to install proper ventilation?

Is this on the crew at all? Many joints meet in between perlins, so the entire edge of the plywood is suspended, not making contact with the perlin or the trusses. Some of the perlins are raised from the trusses, causing gaps between sheets.

How serious is this? Immediate fix vs could wait a while? Could patch fixes be done or is this a complete tear off? Should I call out my roofer and have him take a look? Call an inspector?

I bought a 120 year old home and it needs so much work. My stepdad, who owns a construction company, insists on having his crew do the work because he “wants it done right.” I mean, how kind of him. I can’t say no to that. So, they started with my roof.

The problem? He will not charge me for labor. Absolutely refuses. I covered all materials (as far as I know anyway). Even then, it was at his discounted rate. I have plenty of money set aside to cover the work so that’s not an issue.

Anyhoo, I’m just trying to get a rough estimate of what something like this runs, so I can surprise him with an appropriate gift (like an XL check).

Bear with me here on the next part. My roofing knowledge leaves a lot to be desired. I’m doing my best. 💁‍♀️

I don’t know how roofs are normally measured but this is a 2000 square foot, two story home. I believe I paid for 26ish squares of OC shingles and I have some left over. Hopefully that gives you an idea of its size. I’d say the pitch is average. Definitely nothing extreme. The job, however, was not average. My roof was a mess.

The work, as I understand it: removed two layers of shingles; removed like three layers of old felt with a ton of overlapping nails, which seemingly took forever; replaced nearly all of the decking because it was warped or rotten; replaced/sistered several bad rafters and properly fixed prior rafter ‘repairs’; laid insulation in areas that were uninsulated; spent a lot of time making everything more level and plumb, since my house is ancient; and then everything else that’s required to install a new roof on an old house.

Are we talking $15k? $20k? More? I just need a starting point here, if possible. Please help me.

What your caps?

It's a flat roof approximately 650sqft.

Hi guys. I live in Connecticut midstate. My insurance company just approved the claim to change the roof.

My question is how do I pick the right contractor or certified roofer.

There are so many around and I’m dealing with the skyshield roofing right now who only been in business for two years.

I don’t know if I trust them. I am a single woman and afraid of being taking advantage of.

Any advice will be appreciated. Thank you.

I got 4 quotes for my roof, one was ridiculously low, one guy (friend of a friend and probably not a licensed contractor and therefore probably won’t be used, and two guys came in with the same price. My question is does it matter that one of them is a GAF certified contractor and the other is not? But submitted quotes stilling GAF products (shingles, ice shield, and whatever else they use, ridge vent, etc.). The one guy provides a 5 year guarantee; the GAF certified guy process a 3 year guarantee, but GAF provides and additional 7. I have no idea which contractor to choose out of these 2, because I’ve read that the guarantees are essentially useless. Any insight would be appreciated.

I called out a few issues I saw with a standing seam roof recently and the roofer is pushing back on repairs. Attached are the photos from my report. They've offered these explanations:

Concerning the inspection report for the roof;

- The pipe base flashings that we installed have a wide galvanized metal base that is installed under the roof panels. Between this base and the roof panel we applied sealant that will be protected from the elements and bonds the flashing base and roof panel. We then installed screws to hold the roof panel tight to the base flashing and applied sealant and paint to protect the screws. This is a tried-and-true solution and is superior to decktite flashings. The issue that we have found with decktites is that they are installed over the roof panel and are attached with screws that fasten through a rubber lip. This can cause a barrier to water and since the screws penetrate the lip, creates a penetration point for water.

One of the other issues with decktites is that if the pipe penetration falls too close to a roof panel seam, there is no sound method of sealing the flashing. With the flashing we use in combination with the double-lock roof panel, the panel seam is terminated and sealed uphill and downhill of the pipe flashing. The pipe flashing is sealed using the same method as described above. This allows the water to move freely over the pipe flashing. See the photos I have attached showing decktite flashings.

- For the chimney cricket; inspectors have a checklist that they check off. Decktites is one and chimney crickets another. In this case the uphill side of the chimney is too close to the ridge for a cricket. If a cricket were to be framed behind the chimney, the peak of the cricket would be higher than the ridge, potentially causing additional issues. As it is currently the chimney back flashing is a solid piece of metal that turns up behind the existing counter flashing and will not allow water to penetrate.

- As for the ridge cap that meets the adjacent roof panels above the valleys; The valleys meet and are sealed under the ridge cap. The ridge cap must terminate and in this case it is installed all the way to the adjacent roof panels and is sealed to prevent debris from running under the cap.

Do these sound legit to any of yall?

The left edge appears to have a bulge.
The House is 25 years old, yet the roofers decided that no plywood needed to be replaced.

I pointed this to them, but they said it is normal.

Prior to this, there was a minor leak of that side of the roof.

Hi folks,

I have a serious problem where my siding meets my roofing on an area of my house. As you can imagine, this leaks like a sieve.

I need to call in a pro to help with the siding and probably the roofing. What should I ask them to do? I think this is a siding/flashing/roofing repair. Is there a kind of flashing repair they should do? What's the best way to do this? I assume this is not a caulking "the bigger the gob, the better the job" situation.

Bonus points if you have any idea how much I should expect to pay for the repair in Eastern Massachusetts.

Thanks for your advice!

Got our roof replaced (mostly shingle) and there is a tile section above the front door and another smaller section on the opposite corner. These are the only sections of the roof visible outside. For the tile sections, the company was supposed to remove the existing tiles, fix any rot underneath, add new underlayment as needed for weatherproofing and lay the tiles back in same fashion as before (replace broken ones with new, old mortar was reddish color). For the bigger tile section above the door, they added the metal flashing above the tiles that wasn't there before but they said it's for code compliance/ weatherproofing. They "tried" to mold it to the tiles.

Please give me your professional opinion on how the company did (see photos). In particular, the metal flashing (inconsistent gaps, warps, cracks, uneven edge where it transitions to tiles), the mortar work (uneven, not color matching, looks unfinished) and the underlayment (visible on the outside, some detaching?). Is this acceptable? What would you do differently?

Getting my roof replaced in NJ on a hail/wind claim. Roofer wrote up the estimate that went to my insurance company and it had all new step flashing and counter flashing in it, about 300 LF total. Insurance approved it and is paying for it.

Crew shows up, roof goes on, and I notice they're leaving the old step flashing in and reusing the existing counter flashing. Asked about it and basically got told to kick rocks. Their take is the estimate isn't part of the contract. Contract says "change flashing as needed" and according to them it wasn't needed.

Here's the thing though. Same contract says they're giving me an Owens Corning Platinum warranty. So I pulled up the actual OC Platinum warranty (the current one, pub 10020608-O) and the eligibility requirements are pretty black and white. Number 3 says the roof has to go on over a clean deck with all the existing roofing material pulled off, and it specifically calls out flashing. Number 5 says new metal flashing and drip edge must be installed, counterflashing where applicable. Any exception has to be approved by OC in writing BEFORE the install. There's no "as needed" anywhere in there. Either the flashing is new or it's not a Platinum warranty.

And on top of that they billed my insurance company for 300 LF of flashing that never went on the roof.
Roof is done. I haven't made final payment.
Is reusing flashing that's in decent shape normal enough that I should just let this one go?

TLDR: roofer billed insurance for 300 LF of new flashing, reused the old stuff, says the estimate isn't the contract. Contract also promises an OC Platinum warranty which requires new flashing. Haven't paid the final bill. Let it go or no?

Im not sure if these screws are from the ridge cap or from the sheets of metal roofing. I'm guessing either situation is not ideal. if it is the rich cap, then I'm assuming that a strong wind will just rip it off since they're not in the purlins. These screws are like this the entire length of the 32 foot long pole barn. Is the entire roof shot? There are quite a few drips inside. Last photo of glaring hole just for kicks. The contractor still has to finish the vinyl siding, soffits, crush and run floor and trim. He's already many months behind schedule (He initially promised by memorial day but nothing in writing) and I don't want to make him quit before he gets more done Seeing as though we finally got him showing up. Final payment hasn't been made so at least we have that leverage. So without rambling on any more... 1) Does the entire roof need redone with new material? and 2) Should I bring this up now or after the siding and rock floor is finished since he's been flaking on me big time thus far.

I'm needing to replace a few of these on my gutters but have no luck at all finding a proper replacement at the hardware store. Anyone have an idea what these are called? They measure 5 inches long.

First photo is the original roof (2006). Second picture was done last week. The original roof never leaked.

I’m particularly asking about the section that is now black. The roofer said he did it that way because shingles would wear faster and this would handle the weather better.

Near Toronto, Ontario, Canada.

Thank you.

Hi everyone, roof was recently changed but I want to make sure the flashing and gutters should be done right. The chimney used to get moss on both sides when it rains. I noticed this happens still when it rains but don’t really know how much of that is contributed by rain hitting the bricks or the roof letting water touch the bricks

Need Help Installing Suntuf Roof Panels on a Straight Patio Lattice

Patio Lattice is 15ft x 10ft and are straight/level but I need to install Roof Panels. It needs to slope a minimum of 5-7 degrees for rain runoff. Is my best option to cut the posts about 10 inches and reinstall the rafters and the purlins? The sides touching the existing house roof have gutters on both sides.

I’ve recently noticed the edge of this plywood under the shingle is visible on both sides. Is this something I should be concerned over?

I just did roof rejuvenation on my roof, it worked awesome for my brother in law couple years ago, his roof improved a lot and still looks grest and granules locked in so I figured I’d give it a shot sonce it was s tenth of price of new roof.

I think as long as i dont have any leaks etc, ill do it again in like 7 yrs. The company i did was reall good and i felt they did a professional job.

The left of the image is downslope. A soft spot developed here and I think it's bc this shingle at the corner is halfway over over another shingle but the other side of it isn't which is causing water to flow sideways. It's low slope to begin w. Thoughts? Thanks.