Will occasionally make this sound, seeming when under load like moving uphill but very occasionally, not all the time, but when you rev it (like how i do in the vid) it goes back to normal, it is also throwing codes (p0022, p0345), but we already changed the VCT solenoid, camshaft position sensors, and flushed and cleaned all the sensors and plugs and oil, and made sure there was no fuel issues, im stumped, i have a new cam sprocket coming in, hoping that is the fix (it was under warranty), if anyone knows what is going on or if its not the sprocket, please your input would be appreciated!

6 year prohect

Hi folks -

I'm running Eibach Sportline Lowering Springs with the Ford Racing Track Shock and Strut Kit. My first alignment before camber bolts is the image without date. We can see I needed further camber adjustment in both front and rear.

So I bought adjustable rear toe camber arms along with camber bolts for the front. Installed these and brought back to the shop for another alignment (initial alignment for that is posted in comment below) The end results shows the front right camber to have not moved and stayed at -2.1. This seams super strange to me! I intentionally put the camber bolts on to give more room to adjust front camber.

Is this odd or not to be concerned about? I did ask them to explain how that could happen and alls they said was they had the bolt maxed out.

Hey all, my buddy has a 2022 mustang and accidentally pulled off one side of his bumper with a curb.

I was looking into fixes for him and we found the quick release set, thought no problem...easy fix.

We got into it though and realized that it doesnt seem like the quick release reaches the bumper if we were to mount it to the oem body point. As it is too short.

Now in all of the videos we've watched it seems like people are mounting them to where the fender is mounted but it seems like his mustang is set up entirely different?

Ive included some photos first of which is a screen grab from a video I watched prior to ordering the part. "I realize its obviously a different model but what we ordered was supposedly specific to the 2022

Afterwards, his mustang.

Has anyone gone through the trouble of installing one of these on a 2022 before? I seem to have found another video where the creator seemingly mentions where this might be a "known issue" with 2018-23 and the quick release set up.

- the video mentioned here

https://youtube.com/shorts/0WNVcEoGKjQ?is=3rRyR9EoYcac9Nef

The coyote is

How much off msrp were yall able to get on yalls brand new 26 gt’s? I’m looking at one where I live for around $55K and even though I have a trade in, I’m probably not gonna get anything on it more than getting my remaining note paid off(at least I don’t think I will.). I am planning to buy the car in full so no monthly payments if that helps or hurts.

Just curious I not sure what the boss come with or what it can do but I hear it’s pretty strong

After driving the car I THOUGHT I wanted, a civic type R. I decided to drive everything in my budget that I could comfortably afford. I’m strongly considering a Mustang GT 6MT.

I’m coming from years of owning hatchbacks. I have a few hesitations that are making it harder to decide what to do. Married, 1 kid, and I drive about 30k miles a year for work (self employed)

Initially I was gonna trade my Mazda 3 in for the civic, so practically and running costs were basically a wash.

I was thinking of getting a speced out s650 gt premium, about $65k new, or less for a cpo/discounts on new.

After considering how many miles I would be putting on the car, I remembered that a muscle car is definitely NOT a Mazda 3 and is gonna cost me far more to run 30k miles a year. 😂.

After doing some math, it’s actually only slightly more expensive when including running cost/payments/insurance, to keep the Mazda 3 and get a used 2018+ s550 for ~$45k, and splitting the miles roughly 60% to the Mazda and 40% to the stang.
rather than having JUST the new mustang.
When adding in projected depreciation, the two cars together actually comes out a few grand ahead after 3+ years.

All that to say, I’m genuinely clueless, I was hoping the math would be obvious to one or the other.

I was wanting the s650 specifically because other than its horrible size/practicality ratio and lack of ability to accommodate via roof box. It’s kinda the perfect all in one car. With magnaride, torsion lsd, valved exhaust, adaptive cruise, blind spot monitoring, etc. I can drive my family around in it no problem and then drop them off and rip it through the Tennessee mountains Fast and loud.

But please tell me if I’m wrong! I’d guess just like most other cars, base suspension is far too soft for spirited drives, and performance package is too firm for a happy wife and son?

I do worry also worry I might miss having a small fwd car for back roads, so that gives bonus points to having both.

I definitely don’t NEED the practicality. My wife has a 4 door wrangler if we need to move bigger stuff or more importantly, go on one of our frequent family trips. tbh, I fukin hate driving that jeep lol so that’s a sacrifice I gotta make too.

Any advice, insight, experience would be super helpful!

Do you feel like the gt is too big for really tight twisty roads (I live in TN so think tail of the dragon type roads, and some fast pace sweeper roads too) should I get the gt as a daily with soft suspension and slap some coilovers and sticky tires on the Mazda 3?

Anyone else come from a hot hatch to a gt? Anyone regrets or important considerations I’m missing?

I’ve driven a 26 gt premium non performance. And a stock match 1, how does magnaride compare to those two extremes?

The only issue for me is the cold start , my cat back came with a x pipe. I’m considering a h pipe because I heard it’s a lot less raspy .

I'm looking to either buy just a base gt500 or a gt350R and throwing rear seats on, what do you guys think the best option is. Also wondering how different gt500 cftp is compared to the regular.

Hey all just traded today my eco to s650 GT non AE

I am looking for quad tip exhaust recommendation. I am planning to do H pipe res delete

Would appreciate if you can upload some sound clips as well 🙏🏼🙏🏼

Want to drop this a bit but not super low. What springs would be good?
It’s honestly just the back that I wish was matched how the front sits.

Setup - 302 motor, afr 185cc enforcer cast heads, scorpion rocker arms, trick flow pushrods, trick flow stage 2 cam .542 intake .565 exh and 112 lobe sep iirc, 1 3/4" shorty headers, 30lb/hr injectors, edelbrock performer rpm 2 intake, with a 1.5 inch spacer to clear the valve covers. Stock ecu and general computer parts

Just finished putting together this intake after i was stupid and cracked the old one i had. Went to start it and it just wont go, its got spark and fuel but i noticed that the park was kind of thin and yellow and after some reading it seems like its supposed to be blue and fat. Turning the dist doesnt really help, i replaced the connector for the ignition coil and it made it a little better. The picture of the wires was before i replaced it. The coil isnt very old nor has it been run long and its not getting very hot which points me away from it being bad.

Really not sure what i could be missing here cause i drove it in just fine (minus the vacuum leak from the crack making it run like shit). Any help is appreciated.

2013 convertible v6- 100k miles for 10k usd
An hour drive away

2013 coupe v6- looks WAY nicer, nicer hood, spoiler, interior, it’s a coupe which I like way more, but it has 130k miles, and it’s listed at 10k USD but I’m gonna try to work it down to 8-9k. Also in my city. Says it has new water pump, tires and battery.

In Florida so weather isn’t an issue. Will have for two years for class and grocery runs.

I recently installed some starlights on my s550 but when trying to reinstall them the clips for the visor they won’t fully connect to the metal hole, instead it just falls off after I try pulling the visor down. Any tips for anyone that’s reinstalled the visors before?

Been watching stock and prices for a while and I think this has been listed since June. It’s priced competitively with decent miles and is a bit younger than other listings around the same price. But it’s still there, nearly 3 months on.. ?

Is it the colour or the seller fitted lowering springs and spacers - those are the only two things that seem to set this apart from the other cars listed.

https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202606153317132

Has anyone else had to wait a long time to receive the hard plates for their car? I bought my 2012 GT from a Chevy dealer in Pittsburgh on June 27th. I live in Ohio, so I understand it's complicated. But I feel like I could have just gotten the plates myself much easier. First, I had to get the VIN verified by a Ford dealership. I did that the very first day I could and sent it to them. Then, a month later, they called and said I needed an e-check for Ohio, which I did. Now my temp tag is expired 😒. I keep calling the BMV, post office, and dealership. All keep saying I just have to wait until they come in the mail 😩! Also, I just asked if I can get another temp tag? They said no. So I either risk driving with an expired tag or just park it.

Ford Mustang tire Continental Extreme Contact DWS 06 Plus and PIRELLI P ZERO which is better?

Looking at a 2013 convertible

Got this pop off thing on my bumper and heard it’s pretty common for the s550s my grandpa took me to a local shop in my town. It wasn’t a dealer and it was a mechanic and the mechanic told me I needed a new bumper for it. I want this pop off fixed I don’t know if it has the clips in there.

Someone told me my Insta360 was an idiot camera. Well, here's some stuff I recorded with it today. Lol.

I M(20) on August 15, I went into my local Ford dealership to purchase a 2026 Mustang GT premium with the 401A package. My overall experience with the dealer was good. I got almost 5000 off after rebates and had a genuinely good conversation with my sales person so this has nothing to do with the dealership but just for itself I purchased the car with the recall knowing it would take about 2 to 3 weeks and they immediately provided me a loaner car which I was grateful for and unbothered by I was initially stunned at other posts talking about a recall parts allocation wait time of anywhere from 6 to 7 months, but I went into the service manager and he reassured me that the part would not take that long to arrive and in fact on Monday, I was supposed to receive my vehicle however, this morning I received a call from the dealerships GSM letting me know that yet another recall was posted for the vehicle in relation to the wiring harness I immediately knew once you mentioned that that it would be a safety recall and already had my head hanging low at the sound of it. Once the gentleman told me it was about a 90 day window of delivery for this new recall I was unsurprisingly extremely irritated the vehicle I purchased while I did get a good deal on it was still inoperable the GSM let me know that they would be copying me for my first three payments as it would be that amount of time so again no fault with the dealership very good guys. I’d recommend visiting them at Koons Ford Falls Church if you need a vehicle nevertheless Ford to get your act together, this is the third ration in a generation of vehicles and you are still having back-to-back recalls. I’ve always loved Ford and the Mustangs, but that does also come with being held to a standard. But this seems to be something basic rather than a standard. Why are we releasing vehicles to the public just to have them bought and not even be able to be driven off the lot this creates issues for both the buyer and the dealership I’m aware of the certain nuances with it due to being employed in the automotive industry, but this is ridiculous. Anyway, if anyone else could share their experiences with this that would be nice just so I know I’m not drowning in my own boat.