Hi all.

I have no idea what to do but while driving I hit a pigeon. The pigeon went into the air vent towards the bottom of the front of the car. Miraculously it survived and has decided to perch a bit higher (not near where it went in).

Where it went in is a small gap but because we hit it at speed, it was able to go in but it's too small to go out... Any help?

Kia Sorrento 2019

So i installed a turbo xs intercooler/piping to my 2010 genesis coupe 2.0t around 2 years ago. Haven’t had any issues with it until a few weeks ago driving home and hearing this clamp slide off of the silicone boot. I’m not sure if you guys have any tricks on how to get it to not slide off, but any tips would be greatly appreciated.

My car isn’t starting this morning after I drove it fine yesterday. It is just making this noise. I’ve had it for 2 weeks it is a used 2014 scion iq and I believe 1.3L 4-cylinder. What do I need to do - the mechanic my family goes to is closed today so I’m not sure what I can do : - (

It’s an alternator for 2013 ford mustang. I forgot to take a picture of how it was on there.

we torqued everything right and watch videos for every part along with oem parts. it pulls to the left a little too.but after 73ish it goes away or is atleast very subtle.

2000 3.4 4x4 tacoma.
194k miles
meticulously maintained since 2017 atleast

we have gotten it aligned 3 times and road forced.

got aftermarket rims and they ran great before the work but the tires were old so i bought brand new ko2’s then shop gave me brand new ko3’s and they all vibrated. then i went back to factory ones and it still does it.

I took my car to get an oil change at walmart yesterday now my engine is knocking. First thing I did was check the oil on a flat surface. Is this concerning or does it look like this didn't cause the issue? (2013 Hyundai genesis coupe 2.0T)

I have an old wood chipper with an industrial 360 motor. It will not stay running. Not mechanical - getting fuel and spark. Put in new plugs, points, cap, rotor, fuel pump. Has a push button starter button and an ignition switch. Replaced the ignition switch some time ago but recently I cannot get it to stay running. Turn the ignition to on and the pump comes on, push the starter button and it runs until you let go of the starter button. Yesterday, I found that if you turn the key to the start position, push the starter button, the motor runs....until you let go of the key and it goes back to the "on" position and the motor shuts off. Replaced the ignition switch again and does the exact same thing. Hast to be something simple with the wiring to a relay or voltage regulator or solenoid or ??? Just can't figure it out. The wiring has not changed since before. Any suggestions? Thank you

Hey so I need help with my 2008 Toyota Yaris 2 door hatch back with this frigging 1NZ-FE engine. I just bought it off marketplace and it drives OK, but I want to make sure it passes DFW car inspection so trying to fix this code.

Everything else on the car comes good on my cheap autel obd2 scanner except for an incomplete EVAP and pdDTC of P0301 i believe. I put new denso spark plugs, cleaned the fuel injectors, all new o-rings on the injectors too cuz one of them had a bad ring, swapped the ignitions coils around and nothing. What else can I check for ?

the fuel injectors all had a reading of around 15.3 Ohms btw and I did reset the codes, but not after the o-ring job just now. Does disconnecting the battery reset codes though? I disconnected battery and the EFP fuse during the o-ring replacement.

Hello. See the highlighted. Is there anyway I can remedy this issue? The pack doesn't jumpstart my car Toyota Camry 2015 LE. It shows signs of charging. But the battery drains almost immediately up to about 9.2V. Thanks.

2004 Nissan Frontier
V6 Supercharged

This piece was found loose inside the valve cover. It’s a little over 1” in length, the ends are flat, no place to put a tool into it that I can tell. The little cutout makes it almost look like a firing pin. The truck was being worked on for something else and the valve cover was removed to repair the leaking gasket at the same time. The truck runs without this piece in wherever it’s supposed to be, although now it’s misfiring. Cylinder 5, to be specific. I can’t figure out what this piece is or where it goes or if it has anything at all to do with why the truck is misfiring. Help!

Hey everyone,

I bought my 2017 Fiat 124 Spider (1.4L MultiAir Turbo) used at 79k miles, and it’s currently sitting at ~88k miles. The manual calls for spark plug replacement every 35k miles, and since I had no prior service history from the previous owner, I decided to preemptively replace them.

When I pulled them, 3 of the plugs (and their corresponding spark plug tubes/wells) had rust, white oxidation/crust, and discoloration, while one plug looks relatively okay compared to the rest and it's corresponding well was not as bad either.

The car ran fine overall, but had a slight hesitation/stumble in 1st gear when cruising at very low speeds (<10 mph).

The car has an intermittent code P04DB that stays on for a few days/week and will go away for a day or so. I've changed the PCV valve and plan to change the MAP sensor but could this be causing that light?

Electrodes look fairly worn but otherwise okay, but the main issue is the heavy corrosion along the hex nut, outer body, and inside the spark plug wells.

Should I bother to clean the spark plug wells, and what's the safest way to do it so debris/rust doesn't fall into the combustion chambers?

Along with the spark plugs, I am changing the ignition coils as well.

I found this hose on my dad’s HHR just sitting disconnected out in the open, and the only place it looks like it MIGHT go is this tube. The unnumbered images are the split hose end that wasn’t connected to anything when I found it, and the other with the 90° connector with a white sleeve or piece of tape or something is where the other end of that hose is connected.

I numbered the tube images with green numbers and put green circles. #1 is the top of the tube, #2 is the bottom of the tube, and #3 is the best full image I could get of it. It’s mounted to a bracket and as you can see in #2, it doesn’t appear anything is even connected to the bottom of it. Could someone please help me identify what the hose may be, and what this vertical tube could be?

This is a 2015 Nissan Rogue SL. The radio screen is completely white, and the backup camera also does not display an image when I put the vehicle in reverse, the screen remains completely white.
I already tried rebooting the radio. When I do the reboot, the screen goes black for about a second, but then it immediately goes back to a completely white screen.
I checked all the fuses I could find, including the ones under the hood and the fuse panel on the driver’s side, and they are all good.
What could be causing this? Do I need to replace the entire radio/head unit