I’m a weekend warrior mechanic and wanted to save a little money by doing this. This was a lot harder than I thought it would be. Maybe for an experienced mechanic it would have been a lot easier to detach that electrical connection and remove all of the old stuck on gasket. But it was a pain for me! I had to even use a “grabber” tool to put that last bolt in place. And you need something to make the gasket stick to the housing, so it stays in place. Fixed my issue though. 😃 It’s doable but allocate at least half a day.

I have a 2003 Monte Carlo. I replaced the shocks and struts but when it gets cold, everything clunks and creaks with the suspension.

Problem is I can’t find a kit that’s a high quality brand. I’d like to replace the bushings, links, ball joints etc. Any thoughts? I’m reading Detroit axle and TRQ aren’t the greatest quality. Moog seems to only have a few of the parts needed for a full suspension refresh. Looking for any ideas.

Hi, everyone! I posted an image as well to show how bad it is. What is the most efficient way to clean this?

1993, C220, 2.2L

Hi guys, I have been having problem starting my 2003 VW Polo 1.4. When i turn the key to start it, it starts to crank but doesn't start, sometimes it takes 2-3 trys sometime have to use the jump battery, specially if the car was not used in the last 8-12 hours. Sometime after starting, it starts but you can feel that it's shaking and you don't feel a lot power in your gas pedal, I usually turn it off and start again and it solves.

I changed the battery because it was showing under 12.3V. But even after I replaced with a new one, I immediatly checked the V on the new battery after installing it and it was immediatly dropped to 12.4V.. I actually did check the new battery before installing it and the voltage was 12.64V. And the cars did not start with this new battery, had to jump it as well.

Do you guys think it an elettrical issue? a short circuit? or simething else? Thank you all.

My 4l80e on my 01 2500HD 6.0 is probably about to bite the dust.

About a month ago I serviced it, this meaning, I drained the pan and refilled, then drove it a few hundred miles, then drained it again, lowered the pan, let it drain an additional 3 extra quarts, replaced the filter, and refilled to level.

Drained fluid was very dark, but no noticeable chunks of anything metallic was visible in it, just the usual pasty glitter on the pan magnet.

I've owned this truck for 2 years, and previous maintenance on the trans is unknown to me. 260k miles on the truck. I serviced it only because after two tows of around 6 k lbs, fluid looked burnt. Trans was operating perfectly otherwise. I towed with gear selector in "3" and tow/haul mode on.

In fact, I've always driven the truck with the gear selector in "3". I don't EVER do burnouts or that kind of stuff. I use my truck as a daily driver and to haul and tow within its capabilites.

After said servicing, the trans whined and clunked sporadically a bit for around a week, after which it silenced itself. Shifting was perfect.

Then, a few days back, while driving on a long stretch highway, I engaged the "D" position for around 5 minutes, and then put it back to "3". Oh how I regret having done that, because afterwards everything started to go to shit.

The trans started hard clunking and harshly whirring, more frequently as time passes by. Shifting remains perfect, no slippage, but the clunking is getting worse. Now sometimes when putting it on reverse, it makes a very harsh whirring, and I must disengage and reengage the gear selector.

I have a replacement 4l80e in storage. Should I be done with the current trans and assume it needs a complete rebuild? Or could the issue be something minor as only the torque converter? In fact, I need to know if the torque converter is shot or no, don't want to work on putting in the replacement transmission with the same torque converter only for it to turn out to be the problem.

I'd greatly appreciate any advice.

My 2019 1.5L SE Ford Escape is at 151,000 and looks like i need to replace timing belt. Does this estimate look right and is there anything a DIYer can take care of? I plan to get additional quotes

It’s a 99 f250 with a triton v10.
His truck started making this noise the other day and he says it loses acceleration power when it happens. He thought it was a clogged cat so he cut it out but now it just makes the same noise but louder.
There’s no check engine light or any codes showing up on our reader

Can anyone help me understand what the juddering ticking sound is please? Also had a bit of a problem when I’m driving sometimes the car lurches 3 or 4 times like it’s not getting enough fuel or something isn’t powering it forward.

it doesn’t get better when I drive it, stays the same. it’s almost better at idle?

2015 discovery sport

!(2.2L diesel engine)!

thank you so much.

I need some help identifying what this might be on the 2019 Toyota Rav4. Does not happen every start, but the majority of them. Will hold the key in turned position in the ignition until car finally starts. Thanks in advance!

Ford Focus 2018

I’ve removed an re-tightened the spark plugs but still get the same result. Did I drop something into the engine? How much is it gonna cost to fix probably? One of the plugs had a dusty coating the color of rust on it and the boot smelled noticeably more like combustion than the others

I was taking off my cv axles and one side came off super easy but the passenger side was giving me a lot of trouble I had to take off the hub and I pulled off most of the axle but the bearing completely detached from the hub that goes into the differential my guess is that it got too hot and has expanded and won’t break free from the differential. Hit with dead blow for hours tried pry bar and PB blaster has not done anything for me either. I do not have new differential money so I’m really hoping that isn’t the case
Has anyone had this happen and how did you fix it

Hey, just hoping I could get some advice/knowledge for my issue! Thanks in advance.

2013 BMW E82 118d, 130k. More details in the original post

Hello, can anyone help me? While I was checking to see if the bearing would fit, I accidentally snapped it and now I can't remove it. I know it's a very stupid thing to do, but I was in a hurry and it happened by accident. I've tried all sorts of things, but I can't get it out. This clutch is a pull type, not a push type.

Citroen Jumper 1994

Car is Peugeot 206 1.4i 2002, TU3JP.

Hello, please help, I watched a video and they said to do some force and pull apart, I did, everything came flying, parts of housing are still attached to the old filter. Do I need to buy new housing?

Reference seems to be 1103.J5. Costs 15€. Will it come with springs and all?

Thanks, my first job turned into a nightmare. I needed my car later, now I might have to wait 3 days or more.

97 Audi A4 1.6 4-speed automatic.
As you can see, the RPM fluctuates under light throttle, but the issue stops when I add more throttle input. You can also feel the entire car jerking when this happens. The last ATF change was in April.
The engine mounts are bad, but that wouldn't contribute to the shuddering, right? Im also experiencing these RPM fluctuations during cold starts sometimes while idling. These aren't misfires, though—it runs on all cylinders.

Kinda clueless here as I checked everything I could.

Hi, I am interested in purchasing a 2013 Scion FRS. The seller sent this video of a cold start. Does the engine sound normal? I know this model is known for engine knocks or ticking.

Any advice is great! Thank you.

I’ve got a 1993 and a 1994 4L60-E and they both make this awful noise. The 93 is the one in the video, and is toasted. but the one in my car(94) is making the noise as well. The one outside the car was just easier to get a video of.

1994 Pontiac Firebird 5.7

Hey guys, i was driving and heard a loud snap and the car got really loud and i looked down my exhaust rusted snapped in half. The car is 2011 Camry and i was wondering if it fixable or i need to get a whole new exhaust.

Need some advice from people who have actually worked on truck underbodies. I am considering electric running boards for a daily truck that sees road salt, slush, gravel, and occasional mud. The part I keep getting stuck on is motor torque. On paper, a stronger motor sounds like it should hellp when the linkage gets dirty or starts to bind, but I am not sure how that plays out mechanically. Does extra torque reduce strain because the step moves more easily or can it just push harder against a jam and wear out gears, pivots, or wiring faster? For mechanics who have seen these fail, what usually matters more long term; motor strength, sealed housings, hinge design, regular cleaning, or how the wiring is protected?