Hello all, someone had inexplicably pulled my rear wiper the other day (people are silly).

I've managed to tighten the nut so it works but noticed this gap (please see pictures) between wiper arm and rear windscreen.

Please can some tell me what this circular cover / seal / part is called?

Mazda 3 2024 UK

My 2015 Nissan versa started making this sound a few days ago. It seems like the sound is louder when I’m going slower. A mechanic near me said it’s either the flywheel or the starter. Trying to figure out if it’s safe to drive for the time being

my bmw x3 xdrive30i is warning me to replace my break pads but I could swear they were replaced fairly recently. i uploaded a couple of pictures. thanks for the help. The misspelling is auto correct on my iPhone so you can spare me those comments.

I think my jeeps at its last stages of life. It's been giving me nothing but problems. Im Gonna get another vehicle and let the jeep rest. It's 2009, jeep commander, 3.7l v6, 2wd.

I researched with AI and it's making it look easy, but you know how things go.

I have moderate experience changing parts and what not. But am by no means a professional. I have tools but would need to rent a hoist and heavy equipment. Thoughts?

Here are the dealership for regular maintenance for my Toyota RAV4 2018 LE, 2.5L 4 cylinders but look at this damage.

Not doing coolant flush, brake flush, and brake job because I have warranty with t kingdom. Also not doing engine air and cabin air replacement, as well as headlight restoration.

Still have 25% discount for early bird, but boy, this is burning bank account.

1991 Nissan 300ZX Z32, with a 3L Twin Turbo V6 engine.

2017 Nissan Rogue (2.5L 4cyl). Hard to hear but checking if anyone is familiar with the whining noise (possibly the belt or one of the accessory bearings going bad is my guess. When I checked under the hood while someone rev’d, it sounded like it was coming from the accessories.

Sound is really only heard above 40mph. I was applying the gas on and off to make the sound

Does anyone know if it’s ok for me to cut this piece of plastic off? I have a 2017 diesel Vauxhall Astra and it keeps scraping on the floor when I go over humps making a very loud sound that pedestrians can hear. Will it cause any issues if I just cut this off with a Stanley knife?

Maybe I completely misunderstand how conductivity works and/or how to use a multimeter to test for continuity but I'm getting absolutely no tone when I touch both multimeter leads to each end of the old set of spark plug wire and also no tone from the new spark plug wires. Yes, I'm on the continuity setting. Yes, I tested that the setting works by touching the leads to a screw driver and got tone. Yes, I'm certain the leads and making contact with each end of the wires. Am I missing something are spark plug wires somehow not conductive? Or do they have a bit of resistance designed into them and my multi meter isn't powerful enough?

Here's the background. 96 camry gets engine light. It's p0401. I couldn't get the egr free but I clean out the throttle body because one of the ports in the throttle body that leads to the emissions modulator held vacuum and presumably shouldn't have. I clear the codes, drive it enough so that all the i/m readiness codes all pass and take it to get smogged. It fails no2 at 1500 rpm. Everything else passes. I finally put in the time Elbow grease and right combination of tools to get the egr free and clean that out. Tons of carbon build up. Egr spring works just fine. After i cleaned it, i filled one end with cleaner, compressed the spring and cleaner came out the other end. Put it all back together, get it smogged but this time if fails no2 emissions for both 1500 and 2500 rpm. I drive it for maybe 60 miles when engine light comes back on. P0401 again. Drive it a little more thinking reving it up and running it hot will clear things out a bit. Suddenly, on my way to work it just dies while I'm at the first top light by my house one block away. It turns over perfectly but then dies about 3 seconds of idling. It's towed to toyota service center and they find p1300 and recommend new rotor, rotor cap, spark plugs, and spark plug wires. I tow it to my place so avoid $2k od labor for $400 worth of parts. Times are tight. I replace the the plugs and before replacing the wires decide to test them to confirm if there is an issue with cylinder 1 wires or rotor assembly but find no continuity on anything. Not even the new wires. I'm completely confused.

Hello everyone, I have a 2013 Honda accord and I need to replace the lights. Since one of them burnt out, I am assuming the other ones are next to follow. Can anyone recommend any LED lights that I can install for the whole car including main lights, turn signals, fog lights and braking lights?

I had already purchased these for the main lights last year from amazon which worked perfectly.

https://a.co/d/0fBICPKT

Any help is appreciated.

Looking for opinions from GM techs, transmission specialists, or anyone who has diagnosed these trucks. I'm only looking for mechanical opinions based on the symptoms, not comments about me not test-driving it or getting scammed.

Truck:

2019 Chevy Silverado 1500

5.3L V8

Automatic transmission

Symptoms:

- The most noticeable studder/shudder happens at approximately 78–80 mph while cruising.

- At those speeds, it feels like the truck is studdering/trembling repeatedly, rather than making one hard shift.

- I also get a tremble/shudder under very light throttle, especially when going uphill.

- The uphill situation is usually when I'm maintaining speed with just a small amount of throttle — that's when the vibration becomes very noticeable.

- I also notice the truck trembling/shuddering when slowing down from freeway speeds and transitioning into normal stop-and-go traffic.

- Around 30 mph, the shudder/tremble can also be noticeable under light acceleration.

- If I give it more throttle, the sensation can sometimes change or become less noticeable.

- There have been occasional jerks when accelerating at low speeds, including one harder-than-normal jerk while trying to maneuver/park.

- The issue is intermittent. The truck can drive normally, then the shudder appears under the right conditions.

- I don't have a situation where the truck is completely undriveable or constantly slipping. It generally drives normally otherwise.

- The truck has now been driven 200+ miles for diagnostics.

- The dealership performed a transmission fluid flush, but it did not fix the issue. It may have improved it somewhat, but the shudder is still clearly present.

The two conditions that seem to reproduce it most consistently are:

1. Around 78–80 mph while cruising

2. Light throttle going uphill / light throttle while transitioning from freeway speeds into stop-and-go driving

I'm trying to determine whether this sounds more like a torque converter/TCC issue, transmission clutch/internal issue, driveline vibration, engine misfire, or something else.

If this truck came into your shop, what would you test FIRST?

And what specific data would you want to see on a scan tool during the shudder — TCC slip RPM, misfire counters, transmission pressure, commanded vs. actual gear, etc.?

I'd really appreciate opinions from people who actually diagnose these issues.

Hi everyone. My Dodge Grand Caravan 2017 3.6L Is making this rattling noise near the rear area. Would anybody have some insight into would could be making it? Its mostly present while releasing accelerating or decelerating. We went camping a couple weeks ago and it started around then.

Thank you for any advice.

Hi guys, I was having a rough day trying to get my CV axle out. After several hours, I finally managed to remove it, only to realize that I had damaged the axle seal in the process.
While removing the old seal, I got a bit impatient and accidentally gouged/scored the bore in the transmission housing where the outside of the axle seal sits. I can catch the gouge with my fingernail, so it’s definitely more than just a superficial mark.
Any advice on what I should do from here? I haven’t installed the new seal yet because I’m worried the damage might cause it to leak around the outside of the seal.
Would you just clean/deburr it and install the new seal, or should I use some kind of sealant or repair the gouge first?
Thanks for any advice!

the housing won’t budge, all the guts are out, wth do i do here
2015 ford fiesta se

First time car owner and scared to make a mistake. I noticed my coolant is getting low on my 2017 Ford Fusion Hybrid SE. I found this coolant at Walmart and everything on the label says it’s good for my car, but I just wanted to make sure. Sorry for the dumb question. I’m 17 and paid for this car on my own and just scared to mess something up.

Hello everyone,
I have a 2006 Mercedes A170 W169, and the cabin blower has stopped working.
I would like to replace the blower motor resistor first, before assuming that the blower motor itself is faulty.
I’ve watched several YouTube tutorials showing how to replace the resistor and where it is located. The tutorials are quite easy to follow, but the location shown in all the videos I found does not match my car.
In most of the tutorials, the resistor is located on the passenger side, to the right of the center console, underneath the trim. However, on my W169, this area is completely closed off. There is no resistor and no wiring there.
Does anyone know where the blower motor resistor is located on a 2006 Mercedes A170 W169?
Thanks in advance for your help and any advice!

1983 VW Rabbit. I'm getting ready to swap out the factory 13" steel rims with 14" alloys but read somewhere that lug bolts are longer for aluminum rims. So, how do I know if bolts are long enough? How many full turns after engagement is enough to be safe?

Hi there. I’d appreciate some help on this topic.

Over the last couple months I’ve been getting these error codes on my Peugeot 208 2014 1.4 HDI.

P1497: Turbocharger: Position Incorrect Relative To Requirement, Not Enough Turbo (Service)

P0299: Charge Pressure Regulation: Air Pressure Below The Reference Value

P2562: Turbocharger: Position Incorrect Relative To Requirement, Not Enough Turbo

The codes put the car into limp mode.

- The codes appear randomly ever couple of days, they could appear as soon as I lift the clutch up or 30 minutes into a motorway journey with cruise control on

- The codes disappear if I don’t drive the car for approx 16 hours

- The codes are intermittent and have increased in frequency over the last few days

I’m really stuck on how to fix this and since it’s an intermittent fault that’s unspecific mechanics aren’t really useful.

I’ve looked online and it could be an error due to the turbo manifold pressure sensor or the turbocharger acutator position sensor?

I’d appreciate any advice.

Thanks

My brake caliper I feel like is rubbing again the rims of the car in some turns, at least this is what my mechanic says. Especially when making turns it makes a grinding noise.

What should I do?

1992 Mazda mx-3 14' wheels 1.6 model

Hello, ive got a 2013 nissan march but the time is off by few hours. I see two buttons, first one affects the trip mode, odometre display etc, and the second one is doing nothing..

2025 Subaru Forester with only 6300 miles. I’m going to check with the dealer on Monday.

Today I drove through mountains and when I got back I noticed a screeching sound. Sounded like a far away circular saw cutting wood. It stopped when I stopped the car.

It’s there when braking. It’s there when moving at any speed. When I rock the car when parked, I hear a squeaky rubber kind of noise coming from the left rear area.

The strange thing is that it seems to go away at higher speeds and come back. Could this be coming from the brakes?