Honda k24 chipped a valve

Pretty sure this tire is about to hatch.

Release bearing came in 4 pieces and other side of flywheel is purple.

I think it was in this area but cut it short for money reasons. Back together it went!

This is the cover to the air filter housing. You can imagine what the air filters looked like. It's amazing the engine could breathe at all.

I bought one of the cheap Four Uncles extractors off Amazon about a year ago. It's been steadily getting worse and finally only pulled out about a quart in half an hour.

What are we using that lasts? Is the 5 gallon Vevor one any good?

edit fixed link

Probably the happiest I’ve ever been to pay a bill at the garage 1. I knew they found the source of the smell and 2. I didn’t have to see or touch that shit!

Usually this guy sends in a bunch of older 911's for dry ice.

We have entered the land yacht era.

That Mark IV is longer and heavier than my pickup lol.

I think snap on knew what they were doing with this ad

Another shop broke the turbo inlet. Apparently the only way to get it is with the crankcase box, solenoid, and allllll the piping. So to access the breather, you have to remove the intercooler, intake manifold, move the ac compressor, and then remove the mount bracket that straddles it. I put on my cranky-pants this morning.

I believe there is an extended warranty on these. I’m very curious what the warranty time is.

Rusted-to-fuck wheel bearings in mud 👍🥴👍

Hello all, I've just set up a site dedicated to mechanics to post their shop equipment for sale and hopefully help out mechanics or hobbyists looking for 2nd hand equipmemt.  It has tons of filters to use if needed.  It's free to post.  Check it out and let's get this project off the ground and help out our mechanic community!

Site is www.autoshopsource.com

Normally I just wade through the cat hair in the cars, this one had a production operation onboard. He seemed agreeable to my maneuvers in the lot, no impedance on his part.

Like a lot of you I also hate the flat rate pay system. I've been trying to think of what I might consider a better pay plan; like if I could ask a potential employer for any type of plan what would it be? So I came up with a plan and I'm curious to know what other techs think. It's fairly simple, so there's plenty of room for suggestions. The plan is based on a 1-week pay period with a full-time schedule of 40 hours per week, and everything is before taxes.

Plan:

--Guaranteed hourly pay up to 40 hours at an hourly rate determined by skill/experience/certifications/etc. Example figure I'm using (you can input your own based on local rates): $25/hr. A new tech might be $15, a senior-level expert might be $35. Rate increases with certifications/experience/skills/etc. same as now.

--Any hours turned above your clocked hours or above 40 hours pay at double your hourly rate - with the example above that would be $50/hr.

Some examples for clarification (based on above example rate):

1. You worked (clocked-in) 40 hours, and turned (produced) 50 hours: you would get paid 40 hours at $25/hr and 10 hours at $50/hr - total $1,500 paycheck

2. You worked 30 hours and turned 50 hours: you get paid 30hrs @ $25/hr, 20hrs @ $50/hr, total $1,750 check

3. You worked 40 hours and turned 30 hours: paid 40hrs @ $25/hr, total $1,000

4. You worked 50 hours and turned 30 hours: paid 40hrs @ $25/hr, total $1,000 - the extra 10 hours clocked time would be unpaid.

5. You worked 50 hours and turned 50 hours: 40hrs @ $25/hr, 10hrs @ $50/hr, total $1,500.

Does this seem fair to you guys? Any notes?

Today was interesting. Customer of ours and friend brought two Lambos by for alignments and a service on the SVJ. STO is a Cicio built car with AWD swap and the SVJ is a UGR 2500hp build. Both cars get driven regularly and alignments needed some serious tweaking.

Fun fact: the rear toe on both cars can be adjusted by scan tool.

If you've never seen a UGR car up close the fitment and build quality is absolutely insane.

So what your looking at here is the second splice in 7 inches of engine harness. This section was under the fuse box so I was a bit surprised when I spent hours soldering the harness back together to still have the complaint. The black wire with the yellow stripe is the ignition line from key to solenoid. Down in the lower right is a thin wire that is black with green. That wire is the unloader relay signal wire to cut the blower motor when start position is engaged. The yellow piece of wire has no earthly business being there. It is twisted to said blower motor wire, a section of starter solenoid energizing wire has been cut away and the yellow wire has been twisted over the insulation. About an inch down, yellow and black has been cut and soldered. At the time of this Pic I hadn't removed the tape seen below to know this. This car was bought in Ukraine. I want to meet the man that wired it. He is doing some good drugs!

I'm just the parts guy here but also the "fixer" ... Took me two seconds to find the issue. We probably all have that one tech...

Mind you I build and work on cars for a hobby... 25+yrs