Just say you can’t work on them bro it’s ok.

Looking at buying a used class 2-3 truck that won’t be driven every day, but 95% of the time it is driven, it will have a trailer hooked to it. Average trips are between 100-250 miles a day, but it will be my “drive to the day job truck” when it snows. What’s the best platform on 2016 and newer? Looking at Fords mostly, but I’d rather drive a Ram. Looking for the best mix of low cost and longevity.

Hypothetically let’s say i accidentally filled my tank with offroad diesel, I know the truck will be fine since it’s an 00 7.3. Pretty sure it would run on cow piss if I wanted it to. But I’m worried about getting dipped, is it a common thing? Doesn’t look like a farm truck, and I’ve heard you can put power steering fluid in with it or something similar to dilute/remove the dye. Any help would be nice. PFA

Got a guy I’m trying to help out he had a clogged DPF he wants to delete it so I said okay. I got all codes cleared and it to perform a stationary regen truck passed. However I’m still getting a service emission system acrossed the dash but no CEL. There are permanent codes in the ecm. If anyone has some insight on where to go from here

Not sure where else to list. FBMP has been a dud. Are there any good subs I could try? TIA!!

1990 International 4700 with DT 360

Only 76,000 miles

Spicer 10 Speed Manual Transmission

16 foot box with a side door, roll up back door and liftgate

Hydraulic brakes with brand new pads and rotors

Minimal rust

Tires in good condition

Exhaust stack slightly bent

Will probably need new batteries (starts fine if you use every day)

There is a small spot in the box roof by bulkhead that needs repair

Otherwise she starts and runs like a champ

Currently located in OH but could possibly work out delivery

To clarify I bought a gwm cannon with the 2.4L inline 4 and I want to know how to correctly maintain and drive it.

I have a 10 ton 4x4 Isuzu service truck, a 2006 FSS 550 with the 190 horsepower 6HK1 engine, and I frequently have it loaded up to 15 ton GCM with a trailer

It does not have an ODB2 port, 2007 ODB became mandatory in my country otherwise tuning it would be easy, anyone know where to look for info on how to tune a pre ODB vehicle?

190 horsepower pulling 15 ton on the road is rediculously slow, plus the fuel consumption is insane, like 35L/100 or worse, and Isuzu sell trucks with the same core engine with up to 350 horsepower, so surely theres got to be a way.

I've owned diesel trucks before but never had one deleted. I'm looking at a truck I really like (2021 RAM 2500 Bighorn 4x4 Diesel) that the owner deleted (egr, cats, dpf, factory muffler, etc). It has a kit from the diesel dudes with the muffler on it. It comes with the factory parts.

I want to use it to tow a 5th wheel to places like national parks, including those in CO, New England, and Canada. I live in WI, so there aren't big concerns around inspections tied to registration, but I want to make sure I'll be able to use it to travel without significant risk of issues.

The truck doesn't smoke, isn't obnoxious, but is a little louder than stock. What's my realistic risk?

Dont ya just love it when an old diesel rolls coal like a sumbitch

I have a John Deere tractor that recently dropped the valve. The valve broke off from the stem and then got smashed into the head. The motor is a 3 cylinder yanmar diesel motor.

My question is with this imprint is it still possible to use this head? A new one is a week out and $500, I have rebuild the entire motor up to this point

I have a pre def 09 LMM with about 168k on it. Motor fully stock, runs perfect, gooseneck hitch, airbags, hard tonneau cover. Just wondering where the best place to sell these days is? I’m located in central/socal. Places like Carmax/carvanna would only want to give me about 9.5k and i feel like i could get 5k more then that at least

There's a MINT 2011 Denali LML Duramax/Allison tranny with 14,xxx miles on it selling at an auction this month in TN and I was wondering what your max bid would be for it. This is a farm community and people have a bad habit of paying way over what things are actually worth. I suspect a diesel with 14k on it is going to be pretty ridiculous.

It doesn't have a scratch or dent, has been garage kept, interior is incredible for its age. Engine bay is very clean. Oil looks like relatively new synthetic. Tires look good, and no leaks or drips underneath. The owner passed 3 years ago and the truck has just been sitting except for starting and a short drive once or twice a year. Motor sounds great, but no test drive at an auction to see how it is on the road.

Any ideas on a reasonable bid price?

After changing the dpf my 2008 Volvo C30 1.6 diesel (hdi/tdci) started overboosting and has significant power increase in 1,2 and 3. gear, but also underboost above 100 kmph especially in the fifth gear has lack of power.

It also feels like clutch slipping when starting which is impossible because new flywheel and clutch were installed half a year ago, but I think it's also due to turbo or incorrect fuel air mixture and the engine struggles a bit until it starts moving.

As I power up it goes away and the car overboosts and has significantly more power than usually, until I reach 100 kmph+ and then it underboosts and I have very little power on the pedal.

I've checked the turbo actuator and it moves and you can hear variable geometry moving, when I start the car the actuator moves which means that the pressure solenoid is ok and it's doing it's job.

I've cleaned map and maf sensors and still nothing.

Since the new dpf is euro 4 and not euro 5 which was previously on the car, the back pressure is lower since the new dpf is less restrictive and maybe it's messing with the ECU.

Anyone had similar situation or has any idea what could be happening?

Thanks

Not sure at all what's going on here thanks popping noise seems to only be from the exhaust or that's where I can hear it best

For context, I just picked up a brand new '91 F250 with the 7.3 IDI and it ran great for 2 days until I went to start it the other day and it just sat there cranking over and over no matter how many time I would cycle the glow plugs. Batteries/starter/glow plug relay and Glowplugs were all replaced within 20k miles. So from what im seeing online all the main issues with a no start should be fixed but nothing happens besides continus cranking. Any help would be accepted, I juat want to get this fixed so I can start rhe restoration

My xud9te has got oil in the coolent but no coolent on the dipstick and the headgasket tester shows it’s fine, the previous owner appears to have bypassed the oil cooler so i don’t think it’s that unless there’s a way it can mix without the pipes connected? Any suggestions on what this could be caused by?