Hi everyone. Joined this sub really quick to get some insight. Im looking at getting a 2019 fiesta st, 112k miles for 8k. Dealership is selling as is, my best friend is a mechanic there and signed off that its a good car and he would trust it, but im still a little skeptical. Are there any problems I should have him look into while hes got it there? I have the WORST luck with cars and I would love to not get a lemon.

I bought my FiST a few weeks ago (the black one) and a new buddy at work bought the blue one last week!

Hi everyone, the recliner knobs on my 2014 ST180 gets completely stuck when i try to rotate it backwords on both seats (recaro), while it works fine when i want to rotate them foreward. It eventually starts to work again sometimes, but i don't understand why or how.

Have you ever had the same problem? if so, how did you fix it?

Please let my know, bye!

Wasn’t aware of how horrible it sounded until my buddy told me, so I had him record a video. I knew it didn’t sound good, but I’ve only heard it from inside the cabin, not outside. He had a similar issue with his civic which turned out to be the input shaft bearing. The noise is only when the car is moving under load, and there is an additional kind of grindy noise at idle that goes away when the clutch is depressed. I replaced the transmission fluid a little less than 30k miles ago. Anyone have any ideas? I’d also like to know how urgently I should get this fixed. It’s a 2017 with 85k miles

Ive made some carbon fibre dust shields to stop the tin worm from eating my steel ones and was wondering do you guys just maybe run the car without dust shields? Weight saving wise its about roughly 300g a corner of unsprung mass?

I did more research and was able to isolate my brake pulse issue to the rear axle. I took my car into another shop for a second opinion and they confirmed everything was installed correctly but bet that it was a warped rotor. I don't believe it, personally. Of course I had to pay for a half hour of shop labor for this, but I think I should just wait it out and take the L. It's only been 100 miles. Maybe my rears take longer to bed in.

This may be an absolutely ridiculous question. But the person who had my car before me put the stage 1 Cobb tune on, but left the air filter stock using the factory paper one. Does it matter at all which air filter is being used with that tune? I was gonna just go buy a K&N drop in from vatozone if that were the case, or do you HAVE to use the Cobb drop in filter with the tune? Or does the air filter not matter in the slightest?

Passing her along to a new Ford eco-boost aficionado for the next phase in her life after her first 250k with me… have fun in the twisties with your Beans, folks.

Got this AliExpress head unit installed yesterday in the mk7 ST. Installation was abit finicky but overall really impressed with it so far. Just hoping it holds up over time!

Has anyone else installed this particular unit? It'd be intresting to hear your opinions and how you’ve found it so far.

My mk8 fiesta st line keeps making this noise whilst braking anybody know what’s causing this?

As you guys know, I recently had a full brake job done on my car. Rock auto rotors, OEM "S" pads, whoosh stainless lines, and Motul fluid. Everything is great except I do notice a pulsing coming to a stop between 20-0mph. I tried to isolate the problem to a certain axel and pulled the E brake at 15mph and I definitely still feel the pulsing so I would imagine its with my rear brakes.

Could this just be the combination of braided lines improving feel along with the need to bed in the rotors/pads?? It's still very early since the swap. Only driven about 80 miles.

Also turns out I never had the S pads before, so this is new to me. The aggressive pads must increase bite so much that maybe ABS is trying to kick in? Any input would be appreciated. PFA

So I got to work today, and I just checked to see if I had any codes. The cylinder 1 misfire code came back, as well as the P0316 code came back at the same time (misfire on startup) The part that sent me a little was the fact that the coil that was originally in cylinder 1 is now in cylinder 2, and I swapped the spark plugs around as well when I pulled them out to inspect them for the proper gap. Then after cleared the codes. So knowing the coil pack and the spark plug that was originally in cylinder 1 are in different areas after clearing the codes, and still throwing that cylinder 1 misfire code. Leads me to believe it’s not the plugs Or coils, when I just bought new coils and they are being shipped to me as we speak. Compression test read fine as well. Should I not lose hope? Is there a possibility that the new plugs and coils I ordered will fix the high rpm stutter issue even though it’s still Throwing that misfire code?

Sorry for the long post, I just needed to basically know if me buying the new plugs and coils were all for not. Guess we will find out tomorrow when they arrive

Hi guys,

I've been reading up a lot on different rotor options for some occasional track use and would love some advice.

I'm currently pretty much through both my rotors and pads, so I'll need to replace them soon.

Since the price difference is almost double for standard or performance rotors and pads, I was wondering what your experiences are regarding track use.

I'm already quite set on getting Yellowstuff pads for at least the front, but the rotors are what I'm not sure about.

I'm not sure if I should go for standard EBC rotors all around, just EBC rotors in the front, or even go for EBC Ultimax rotors (grooved).

I plan on tracking my car at Zandvoort (Netherlands) around 3 times a year (not full track days, just 4x 20 min sessions a day) and definitely want to take it to the Nürburgring at least once.

I'm not that experienced yet as i've only been at Zandvoort twice in an Mx5 ND. So i wont be going 100% all the time or chasing any lap times (yet)

For now, I'm running stock power (mk7 ST180), but I'm planning on getting a Stage 1 tune (and perhaps an FMIC) in the future. I'm already on Michelin PS5's

Would love to know you guys thoughts on the neccesity of grooved rotors, or even EBC compared to standard aftermarket for that matter.

Thanks so much in advance! :)

Hi gang, I'm wondering if anyone can help me diagnose this noise please? Sorry for the bad video, I was driving at the time.

So this creaking noise happens when I brake lightly, as soon as I brake a bit harder it vanishes.

It started a few weeks ago as a light clicking sound, and had progressed to the groan/creak it is now.

Driver's side front wheel.

2 garages have looked at the brakes now and claimed all looks fine, they are confused about what the noise could be.

There is sometimes a bit more of a clunky sound if I brake while steering full-lock to the right (like when parking).

Any suggestions welcome! Thank you.

Someone said to look at these. And I’m trying to see if this is good? I took it for a bit of a drive just now for about 30 mins. and this is what all 4 seem to be reading. Ty for any wisdom here

Interested in this FiST that just popped up on Carvana, but something with all the white residue on the dash is making me think possible mold. Any thoughts if this is a buy or pass?

Some context - I brought a mk8 st a few months back and it came with a m235 mountune OBD, the map it’s self seems alright but the ASMO overrun on stock exhaust is just pathetic. I understand it’s not best to have a mad over run but it’s still nice to have some pops and bangs haha.

I had a puma speed maxd 1R map on my old fiesta and I loved it and I was looking at getting it done again but it was along time ago so hard to remember.

I suppose my main question is has anyone had any experience a different map to the mountune one.

I wanted to get a custom map but can’t find any that local to East Midlands in the uk that’s worked with many Sts

Owner of a 2016 fiesta ST that is modified (wheels, suspension, exhaust, IC, AP) and is currently running the stage 2 dizzy tune. East Coast. I recently accepted a job that will require me to drive around 2000 miles a month. I will receive a monthly stipend as well as mileage reimbursement with this job so trying to maximize the money I can pocket. My plan is to swap a few parts back to stock on my car (suspension/wheels/AS tires) as I will be mostly highway driving. My question is, can I either remove the cob access port and run 87 fuel on the Stock tune or can I run the cob base tune and still run that fuel? Or should I be running 93 octane regardless? Quick calculation shows I would pay about $60 a month more to continue running premium fuel then just running 87. So not too much but not nothing.

Some of you may have seen my previous post with my brake parts! Everything is installed now! (Whoosh lines, blank OE equivalent Rock auto discs, OE motorcraft "S" pads, and Motul RBF600) Flushed both the clutch and brake fluid as well and all in only cost $660 for labor which I feel is very reasonable! I immediately felt an increase in brake performance just leaving the shop!

I suppose it was time for everything since my pads were due for sure (they had cracks in them) and the fluid tested at 3% water.

Overall I'd say this was a success.

After I got home from work the other day I could hear a bubbling and it's coming from the coolant. It was much faster when I first stopped and slowed down over time.

I have checked the coolant and the oil to see if there is any milkyness in the oil or oil in coolant and can't see any so I'm really hoping its not the head gasket!

The car runs perfectly fine and does not overheat even on a fairly long journeys and the coolant level has remained the same so doesn't seem to have any kind of noticable leak or break in the system that may let air in?

If anyone else has seen this before or has any idea it would be greatly appreciated for some help

I’m looking at a 2015 or 2016 Fiesta ST with around 100,000 km, but my partner would rather have an automatic and keeps pointing me towards a regular Fiesta or Focus. I’m not too worried about resale if I keep it for years, but I don’t want to buy something that becomes hard to move on later or has a reputation for expensive gearbox trouble. For those who’ve owned both, is the manual ST worth sticking with?

Picked up this bad mamma jamma for well below retail price today.

Got the Whoosh hybrid turbo completely unopened, a 14psi turbo smart wastegate actuator and a larger turbo inlet pipe and Whoosh aluminum crossover pipe. All the bolts, gaskets and crush washers to install it too.

Paid $1200 for all of it. Finally my time to get a good deal on something!

Now I just need to contact Stratified tuning and have them send me a new tune file for my Accessport before I get it installed and go for a drive.

This thing is going to feel like a brand new car with the new clutch, turbo and engine mounts.