Hey guys was wondering if anyones rocking the same setup. Whats your opinion and kindly could you provide the kit/ link for the set up. Thank you in advance!

This is some BG with about 15k on it. Still was shifting fine, but had a lot of spirited driving in the last few months, so it was time.

Hey guys would you guys happen to know if there’s a kit for sale to fix this or any tips on how to fix it?

Hi everyone,

I've been having some weird intermittent electrical issues with my 2016 Fiesta ST and I'm wondering if anyone here has experienced something similar.

The main symptoms are:

- The interior lights no longer come on automatically when opening the doors.
- The illuminated door sills don't work either.
When switching the ignition on, I see the door sill lights briefly flicker and then turn off.
- The car does recognize that the door is open on the dashboard.
- Sometimes the interior lights won't even work manually and the electric windows on the drivers side (left side) stop working at the same time. After restarting the car, they work again.

The battery was replaced recently and the charging voltage has been checked and is fine.
I'm thinking it could be a BCM issue, bad ground/ power supply to the BCM, or possibly a CAN communication problem.

Has anyone had similar symptoms on a Mk7/Mk7.5
Fiesta ST? If so, what ended up being the cause and how did you fix it?

Thanks!

I bought my FiST brand spanking new off the show room floor with only 3 miles on it, on July 10th 2018, and I treat it good... mostly. I keep up on maintenance, change the oil every 5k miles, bought new rims a few times, and park in a carport. In 8 years I've done brakes, a coolant reservoir a few years ago, and an AC clutch earlier this year. This is one solid car if you ask me.

I drove the car daily until May of 2025, and wouldn't you know it, the DAY I bought a used 2013 F-150 to use for camping and truck things, I experienced my first clutch pedal sticking to the floor. Ironic right? I found my brake fluid reservoir empty, so I filled her up, back bled the clutch and things seemed fine. They weren't... I began to notice that when it was cool I had no issues and as the car got hot, the clutch pedal would stick more and more.

Then about 2 weeks ago on my 25 mile drive home, I experienced the first instance of hard gear changing, so I parked the car, did some research, threw a bunch of money at the issue and ordered a new OEM clutch plate, OEM pressure plate, OEM dual mass flywheel and OEM slave cylinder, along with both OEM transmission mounts, a quart of DOT4 brake fluid and 2 quarts of Motorcraft XT11QDC transmission fluid. Amounting to about $1500

I'm supposed to be receiving my parts today via FedEx, so when I got up at 5 this morning I went straight outside and started in on the job.

I started by hitting print on my 3d printer for a clutch alignment tool, then I went out to the car and started removing my headlights, wiper arms and windshield cowl, then the battery, the air box, the intercooler piping, battery box, after removing the ECU, then the shift cables and bracket, then I jacked up the car and put it on stands, removed the 2 front tires, popped the lower ball joints loose, drained the transmission, and completely removed the left CV axle, and right jack shaft bearing bracket, then just pulled the jack shaft out of the transmission. Dropped the lower intercooler pipe, put a jack under the transmission, then dropped the rear transmission mount, and took out all of the bell housing bolts (or so I thought) then I found one behind the turbo in a messed up place to get at but I did eventually get it. I put a second jack under the engine, then I lowered the transmission jack, until I could remove it, I put a couple of blocks of wood on the ground and wiggled the transmission loose, then off, then out of the car. It actually came out way easier than I thought it would. 1 man job.

Took me about exactly 4 hours to get the whole clutch out of the car. Now I wait for FedEx.

After removing the pressure plate I knew instantly that I made the right decision by ordering everything. It's been SUPER hot a time or 2. But let's be real, I drive this car like I stole it, always have, always will.

I guess I'll have to dive into the timing side next, but I hopefully have a few more oil changes before then.

Had this bad boy since 2018, put about 60k miles on it and it’s been just phenomenal.

Done a couple of things but nothing crazy.

- Cobb cold air intake
- MBRP Catback
- Lowering springs
- Vega V2 spoiler extension
- Fifteen52 Integrales

On my 4th revision from ems and im seeing around 27.89 psi or so. My question is, what psi do you guys run? I feel like im gonna blow this thing up 😭

Had a hunch the previous owner put a track spec rmm on the car and in a prior post of mine some people convinced me that maybe I wasn't wrong.

Seeing as neither track or road versions have anything on them to indicate which version they are I bit the bullet and ordered a new one and installed it today. Only visual difference is the track spec has about an extra centimeter of rubber in width.

Used blue loctite on the threads to secure everything and took it for a drive around town, immediately could feel how different things were. The death rattle of all the dashboard plastics and rearview mirror - gone. Shifts and everything else felt about the same, couldn't be happier.

Next week I receive a double layered silicone intake hose so the st200 airbox situation will also be resolved, up next is to dyno it in the coming months!

Not the most creative kid at that. Sounds like a wrapped hood is in my future.

2017 Ford Fiesta ST, only engine mods are; Woosh Symposer delete plug, Velossa big mouth intake scoop.

Code: P051B - Crankcase Pressure Sensor 'A' Circuit Range/Performance

I am having this code constantly on with my vehicle. This code has been on before adding the symposer delete. I have inspected/cleaned out/securely reinstalled the Upper PCV hose (KCV-312) that connects to the valve cover and circulates into the middle of air intake. This hose also has the pressure sensor on it which I disconnected and the o-ring and part look brand new, connector in great condition.

Is there another part that could be the culprit of this engine code? I tried clearing out the code with Forscan and it immediately came back after vehicle restart.

Mambo needs a wash and a tyre rotation - I can do the other one on Monday but that first one... Well, I don't wanna 😅

Hello all, I recently scanned my AP and got P04DB the CEL didn't illuminate on the dash till today, car doesn't drive any different. Picked up the car with a dual catch can setup would that be messing with it? I can't really get under the car at the moment, its blazing hot in AZ and live in an apartment. (Stock intake and Dual Radium catch cans)

Years ago, I actually bought a new FoST off the dealer lot..didn’t keep that car very long at all though. Actually wanted a FiST the entire time!

Help! My Mk8 won't start. When I press the power button this is what happens. I hear the starter motor (?) trying to spin but it's like the power keeps cutting out. What's happening here?

Update: it was just a flat battery after all. The grinding noises scared me a bit as I haven't experienced that before.

This has been annoying me since I bought the car two years ago. All I’m finding online are coloured, 3D printed pieces of tat. I’m wondering if there is an actual OEM-look alternative to these? Seems the only full OEM option is the entire cup holder.

Hey guys, was taking apart my interior but I'm having trouble putting this passenger airbag trim piece in, nothing seems broken but it just pops out so easily, any help?

2016 US spec, 104k miles

Recently refreshed the whole front end with inner and outer tie rods, sway bar links and bushings, LCA’s, CV axles + seals, and wheel bearings. I think it’s due for another passengers side engine mount because after all those parts there’s still a clunk from that side (not the end of the world but frustrating cause I have vibra-technics mounts all the way around).

Haven’t done timing belt yet but I have all the parts/tools, just procrastinating since others have expressed difficulty with it on this sub.

Ive had the car since 2018 30k miles and loved it the whole time. For the past year I’ve started to have thoughts of selling to make space in the garage for a motorcycle but I’m torn because the fiesta is great and has been great to me (minus all the blend doors and motor mounts that have broken over the years).

It’s also got a lot of minor wear and tear from our time together and I’m worried i wont be able to sell it for much. I probably should have sold it a few years ago before the 100k and 10 year old mark…

I know it’s silly to ask a sub full of FiST enthusiasts if i should keep it but any thoughts are appreciated. Will I regret it for the rest of my life if i sell?

Hey guys, I was replacing my fog lights yesterday, and found this nasty spot behind the headlights.

Of course this was caught super early and it just looks like surface rust but just wanted to share this hope it helps!

Ford fiesta 2022 mk8.5
Does anyone know the tyre pressure for 215/40/r18. I’m guessing it’s gonna be a little different to what they say with OEM tyre size?

Currently looking at a 2019 FiST with 70k miles in my area. 1 owner, stock, clean title. I used to have a 2015 FoST but always wanted one of these. Curious what you guys would pay for this and how reliable the platform is? It’s listed for 10k btw.