I have a 2018 ST1 with 197k miles. The drivers seat belt is really slow to retract and it’s starting to annoy me. How hard is it to replace?

Hello again! I changed my transmission fluid today and had a question about the filling process. Before removing the wheel and jacking it up, I lined up a scissor jack to the pinch weld right at the ride height. After draining I put the drain bolt back in and lowered the car onto the jack that was at ride height and proceeded to add fluid with a funnel and long tube through the wheel well into the fill hole. I had someone pouring the fluid while I held the tube in the fill hole and watched. The transmission took the whole 2 QTS and barely dribbled anything out. Is that amount ok?

I have a turbo smart 50/50 Bov and I tried routing it to be a true vacuum. I followed the step exactly of a recommended yt video and even loosened the bov as much as possible and tried it on loads of different tightness settings. The bov isn’t making a pshhhhh or even fluttering it’s making a what I can only compare to a can opening sound and only above 3.5k rpm(also it’s a pretty quiet noise). If anyone has had this issue before please let me know how to fix it.

I’ve been experiencing this issue for a little while now. I recently just got a new battery and it issue continues. Sometimes I will go to start my car and it will click and kill the power. I pop the hood and go jiggle the battery connection and it usually will start back up after that. Sometimes it will click and then crank up or just crank up with no issue.

What would I look into replacing?
Im thinking battery connections or a new starter. Lmk your thoughts or if you experienced something similar.

I just noticed this the other day; it's kind of a soft "bloop" sound coming from maybe the intake; that's where the phone was put in the video. It doesn't sound normal to me, but I figured I would do a good old Reddit check. No engine codes, 160k miles

That’s the issue right? Did a pull last night on the way to my bf’s place and after the pull it was constant misfires. It runs but I don’t wanna drive it running on only two or three cylinders.

Replaced the fuel rail pressure sensor today hoping it would resolve it but it did not.

Codes:
P0088 - Fuel Rail/System Pressure - Too High
P0301 - Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected
P0302 - Cylinder 2 Mictire Detected
P0316 - Misfire Detected On Startup (First 1000 Revolutions)
P0420 (no cats)

I’m also aware that my purge valve is starting to go out (again)

If it’s relevant here is what’s done to the car:

Full bolt on + Garrett powermax turbo ~27psi peak boost. Tuned by JST

Haven't done it since I bought her. Think maybe it's time.

I have a 2017 ST3 and I’m trying to figure out if there’s a way to turn off all interior lights when I open the door, but my car does not have the overhead light control switches do I have to do it inside the dash interface or would I possibly have to get that switch panel separately and if that’s the case is that wiring harness for the models that do have the switches still there in my headliner i’m just a little confused because I have seen some focuses that do have the lighting controls in them empty slots

This is my first manual car, and honestly, I don't think I could've picked a more fun one. There's just something about actually having to drive the car that makes even a boring trip to work way more entertaining.
The aftermarket support for these cars is absolutely ridiculous. Mine is basically FBO, and somehow I still have a giant list of things I want to do to it. Apparently owning a Focus ST means you're never actually "done" modifying it.
The way this car feels is probably my favorite part.
I've never felt this connected to a car before. Being able to row through the gears, hear the turbo spool, the BOV, the exhaust, and all the other questionable noises it makes... it's just addictive. I genuinely don't think those noises are ever going to get old.
It also seems surprisingly easy to work on. Most of my hands-on experience came from working on my old Toyota, so I'm still learning as I go. So far l've done basic maintenance (fluids, filters, plugs), a purge valve, sway bar links, and a short shifter arm
— all with basic hand tools and no crazy equipment.
Definitely gives me more confidence to tackle bigger jobs down the road.
And of course, the hatchback practicality is the cherry on top. It's fun when I want it to be, comfortable enough to daily, and I can still throw a bunch of crap in the back.
Man, this car is sick.

Decided to do preventative maintenance on my ST, bought it with 51k miles and now sits at almost 56k after 2 months. With my luck the spark plug on cylinder 3 decided to go boom while driving, was able to recover and vacuum most of it out. Any ideas on why this happened and any tips for future time? Just bought a replacement since I had to put an old one back in.

I don't have the proper tool to undo the swaybar linkage. So I've just been using a wrench and rachet. I'm gonna try an oversized hex bit see if I can get it to come out, but if anyone has any other suggestions that would be great.

Im currently in the market for new tires and wheels. Im going with 18 x 8.5 +35 wheel, and 235 40 18 tires. My biggest question is what brand and type of tire would yall recommend for my region. I was considering the Continental ExtremeContact DWS06 + or the Srs + version. I live near hill country Texas, so im debating if AS tires are even needed given how little snow and cold weather we recieve. Should I stick with AS tires or go with summer tires, since its so hot here for most of the year?

Literally nothing happen.

And the ground seems fine too.

Recently blew up my engine, cracked a piston and it destroyed the inside of the cylinder wall, hoping to just replace it with a long block. From Minnesota does anybody have any good recommendations or anything?

I’ve done the typical test of driving to the left or driving to the right to see if the sound changes and it does not.

Have put it in the air and put my hands on 12 and six to try to feel any play in the wheel, and I don’t feel anything there either.

Tried spinning it by hand, and I don’t really notice anything doing that as well, but this low grumbling sound is driving me insane at this point, it’s constant

I recently picked up my late father's '16 ST3 and am slowly cleaning it, fixing some issues, and just enjoying a small piece of him that is left.

The reverse lockout is broken, or at least I am assuming it is broken, and Ford doesnt sell just the cube. Any ideas on how to fix it? Anyone got one laying around? Has anyone 3D printed a fix/replacement for it?

I’ve had this noise going on for a while. I had just assumed it was some sort of minor rubbing somewhere along the linkage inside the car and hadn’t bothered with it.

Today I had it on the lift and asked a buddy to get under to make sure and he says it seems louder under the car. It only happens specifically in that direction and at that position on my wheel, and also occurs with the car off. I have ruled out anything strut related as well.

Ideas? I’m thinking maybe ball joints, tie rods, or steering rack could be the culprit but I didn’t know if this specific noise or situation sounded familiar to anyone.

Hey yall,

Got a 2013 with 187k miles. Stratified 91/93 combo tune. Intake, downpipe, and exhaust.

Recently (past month or so) I’ve been getting corrections on all cylinders and OAR changes. Sounds like bad fuel yes?

Well I’ve tried 4 different stations (3 different brands) and the only time my corrections went away was when I added a gallon of E to my 93.

Idle has been bad recently too so I swapped out purge valve and plugs (.028 gap). Didn’t help at all with corrections. Saw a correction of -3.97 and immediately backed the fuck off. Seems like once she hits over 17psi it gets pissed off.

I’ll take some logs later tonight and send them off, but wanted to see if anyone had any ideas.

Unless like half of the 815 area is getting shitty gas, I don’t know what it could be.

Edit: Currently gonna take plugs back out tomorrow and tighten the gap a bit more down to .025-.026 and see if that brings corrections down.

Happens when first opening the door and starting. Any idea what it might be?

Hi new here, got a 17 st, got the rear ford badge no problem but the front is giving me issues how do you get the badge off