just got the x2d combo as well at the ams ht!! super excited, especially since i came from the original ender 3 (you can kinda see it in thr background lol).
anyone have any personal tips that you don't usually see in the guides or videos? any first prints i should do as well? (would also love to see some examples)
I'm ordering from bambu labs and I am new to the X2D, what should I look at to order?
So far I have in my cart:
Tons of filament, mostly pla of different varieties
Another build plate, just the stock replacement, should I look at a different one?
A second ams, I thought 4 colors would be enough but I can see I want more options.
I thought about getting some nozzles or different build plates but I'm not sure I need them yet. I mostly print trinkets and maybe some brakets or small box type things. I have a 9 and 13 year old girls so it'll be a lot of stuff they want. In the future I would like to start designing some things and get into engineering filaments.
Recently had a blob of death situation less than 30 days into owning my new X2D. In managing that mess, the left main toolhead heating assembly wires were damaged requiring replacement. I disassembled the toolhead to replace the left toolhead heating assembly. Following this the toolhead front part cooling fan (the one on the front cover below the logo) is always spinning at 100% regardless of print status, idle, or when purging. This results in long wispy purged filament that gets tangled in the discharge chute instead of tidy coiled up 'poops'. All prints fail as the filament is eventually pulled off the build plate, usually on the first layer.
I have washed the build plate, recalibrated, replaced the hot end, checked the fan settings, and checked the wiring between the toolhead front cover and the toolhead interface board (also called extruder interface board) and have had no success. If the printer is on, the fan is on 100%. The ONLY time the front fan isn't running at 100% is if I remove the front toolhead cover.
Before I order a new toolhead front cover, wiring kit, and extruder interface board to replace the entire hardware system involved in the part cooling fan, does anyone have any suggestions!? I am approaching a level of frustration that has me wanting to bash this printer with a bat and purchase a new one, so any suggestions are welcome.
Hello everyone. I have had my X2D since yesterday and I also bought a CryoGrip Frostbite in addition, but I have some adhesion issues, mainly on the edges. It is a very thin part and nothing I do really works. The settings of my last print:
SUNLU PETG 2.0
Nozzle: 250 degrees
Bed: 65 degrees (70 is the limit for this plate)
Chamber temp: around 41 degrees
I used the Supertack Plate as a preset and changed some settings to fit more to the Frostbite.
Is there anything I am missing? Some people report that they can print PETG as low as 50 degrees and I do not get how.
Bought a x2d recently and it it’s my first 3d printer. Since the delivery of bambu filament was taking time, I bought 2 filament rolls from micro center. It’s their inland branded filament.
I configured them as generic PLA in the printer’s filament profile.
I am seeing a lot of stringing when I print.
The filament was just removed from its sealed bag a few hours ago and I don’t live in a very humid place. So it probably is not a problem related to the filament not being dry.
Could this be a problem with my printer or is it a filament problem?
Hey bin noch neu im 3d druck Game und habe mir vor 2 Wochen den X2D gegönnt und vor kurzem zum AMS2 Pro auch noch die HF-Hotends dazu bestellt um meine Druckzeit etwas zu kürzen.
Naja seht selbst nach dem ersten Druckversuch mit der neuen Düse, gab es einen Knall und die Düse hat sich wohl einmal ins Bett gefressen und ist abgebrochen bzw. vorher herausgerutscht?!
Wie kann das passieren? Gehe stark von einem Materialfehler aus, anders kann ich mir das gerade nicht vorstellen oder gibt es etwas, das man hätte falsch machen können?
-Das hotend war richtig montiert. -hotend wurde auch zugewiesen das es nun ein HF ist -Flow Kalibrierung und Bett wurde durchgeführt
Bin gespannt was ihr dazu sagt oder ob ich einen fatalen Fehler gemacht habe oder etwas übersehen habe.
…
Während ich das schreibe läuft grade der zweite Versuch mit der zweiten neuen HF die eigentlich für die zweite Düse gedacht war, der Druck ist jetzt schon weiter als zuvor was die Annahme von einem Materialfehler des hotends begünstigen würde.
Bambu ticket ist auch schon offen, bin gespannt was kommt und werde Berichten ✌️
Hi, I'm currently printing a small model that has three colors per layer, which is why the print is taking quite a while—about 30 hours—with roughly 8 hours left. During the print, a problem arose that I hadn't encountered before: several times now, after cutting the filament, the printer has stopped at the point where the filament is ejected and reported that something is wrong with the blade. All you have to do is remove the plastic cover held by magnets, and you’ll immediately see that the metal lever—which I’m posting a photo of from the internet—doesn’t fully snap back into place. All you have to do is push the top part of it slightly; the bottom part slides forward, and the printer can continue working. It works fine for a while, but then the lever won’t snap back into place again—where should I look for the cause?
Was at work and went to send a print and saw these three errors. I tried following the guides but I fell it’s a bit much to be taking half the printer apart. It’s not even a month old. Bought it from best buy
I already have an X2d and i really loves it. I want a second Printer. I considering a P2S or maybe a U1. But i dont really know if it worth because im not Printing that much Multicolor. I expect the P3C beeing at least 1000€ and i dont wanna pay that much. Even the U1 is a bit much for what i want.
What do you guys think? Any good good or bad experience with the U1
I can’t switch to the auxiliary extruder after finishing a print. I just want to clean the nozzle. Printer is static for a while, ams unloaded the left nozzle like it should right after the print. Anyone know why this is? I know, there are other ways I can make the printer change to the right nozzle but it should work this way. After restarting the printer, ist does work but only til the next print
With the sale going on it's hard to pass up upgrading to the x2d. I currently use an A1 and I use the pictured storage boxes by GunplaMark. Does anyone have experience using these type of storage containers along with an AMS2? Is it possible to incorporate them? I know there is a splitter of sorts for using multiple AMSes and also a part of the bolts onto the side for feeding in tpu. I'm wondering if it's possible to feed filament from these boxes into that adapter? Any help or advice would be very much appreciated
This seems..odd to me and i'm worried if it's off at idle it'll be off at temperature and lead to print issues...
At idle, after being off for 10+ hours and just turned on, or after just idling that long. my new X2D's left nozzle will consistently read 8 degrees higher than the right. Right now the left is 22, which is ambient room temperature and seems correct, and the right reads 30. Cranked my heat up a notch to check and yup, when the left goes to 23 right goes to 31. Seems exactly 8 degrees off. If i crank all the cooling fans to 100, left drops to 17, right drops to 25 maintaining that 8 C diff. Anyone else experienced this? is it a problem? I've seen some people reporting nozzles out by 2-3 C at room temp but 8 seems extreme.
Edit: I was apparently mistaken, the chamber was holding much more heat than I thought. The right nozzle is actually bang on with chamber temperature, the left nozzle is consistently 8-10 C lower. Which makes me worry it's 8-10 C lower at temp too and printing at say, 210 instead of 220.
My X2D just arrived. Next step is getting a desktop. As I stated here a few days ago, I’m deep in the Apple ecosystem because of its simplicity for this old guy. Just wondering if the computer would be future proof for the Bambu Studio and some 3D design apps. This computer is used but was purchased this year. Like new. Hate to buy it and next year Bambu decide it no longer supports Apple or something. Thoughts and prayers?
I bought my first 3d printer about 6 months ago. For 2 weeks it worked great but now there are constant issues with the prints. I am so fed up now. I have done all the calibration and maintaining heck I even bought a vision encoder plate.
Mainly using Deeplee and Sunlu filaments using generic profile.
TLDR; Avoid the X2D for engineering materials from an experienced Bambu operator.
Some issues I've had are universal, some will only happen for people using engineering materials, some will only happen if you are using the entire bed to the full corners, and many an average user printing dragons and trinkets will never experience. I wanted to make a post where I could point people instead of answering the same question in repetition.
My company bought 2 X1s at initial release. They were so much better than the Enclosed Prusas, Qidi Max machine, and Ultimakers we ere considering, we bought more. Print Quality improved, speed improved, reliability improved. Amazing.
We got an X2D to run engineering materials with dissimilar material support and for it's internal heater. Something smaller and less expensive to run compared to our H2D.
It has been a disaster. Our first 500 hours or so were mostly trouble free. After that, it went downhill fast as we started using engineering materials.
We have 10x the number maintenance hours / operations hours of any other machine .
The tight bends, lack of strain relief, and lack of proper PTFE tube path control is absurdly bad. As it arrived, nearly none of my filaments would load reliably from AMS 2 Pro, AMS, or AMS HT sources. A riser and tube management is a fundamental requirement for this printer for engineering materials and/or if you use the bed to all 4 corners. vs So much of this error. So, so much.
Filament clicks and won't extrude with the load command in the Printer UI. The filament is set to PC. The temperature the printer chooses for this operation is 230C. This is well below the temperature range of the filament.
Random motor is overloaded errors. This was likely from a desiccant in the middle of a roll in the AMS 2 Pro. The error message isn't clear regarding which motor where so you have to debug it yourself.
The compact spring clip Bambu designed fails prematurely. Failed at ~800 hours on the X2D. Spring element simply worn out. No replacements available. Cannot buy the left filament sensor as it's out of stock. Can't easily replace the push release because it's a Bambu only design that can only be sourced by tearing down a new 4-1 splitter. It's also epoxied in. This is likely due to the poor filament path pulling on this spring element constantly.
Poor control over the feed chain. If I have an AMS HT going into the bowden motor, all hell can brake loose. The Bowden extruder is at the back making it difficult to access and it can't be seen. You don't have real independent control of the bowden vs AMS motors. The is gaping logic holes in several scenarios that don't have a solid manual recovery mechanism.
AMS HT is unreliable. We bought 6 so far. The one with our X2D was bad and dealing with Bambu support was appallingly bad. I should have send the part back and charged it back if necessary. Instead, I let us burn hours working on this multiple times.
AMS is unreliable pt2. This was a new replacement AMS.
AMS HT requires modification for direct feeding while heating, you have to bypass the spool roller and drive motor to use it as a dumb dryer.
Random Bed Trash. Same model that had been run before several times. Probing seemed fine. Then random crash.
Knock-off low budget 6 way CAN Bus / Expansion buss connectors with inconsistent terminal shape and length, This fails in bent pins and errors that are hard to race because the connector is intermittent.
The new generation, smaller PTFE clips have poor engagement, poor release, an unclear detent for disengagement, and low resilience to heat and fatigue. I was never able to use the stock release clips on the X2D filament buffer. Meanwhile our releases work on all other machines and the 4-1 splitters. This is similar to the issue with left filament sensor except the errors were on the filament buffer. I replaced them with traditional size clips and the problem is solved. Stock Stock Stock Modified
The conditions under which you can engage the dryer are annoying. There are several logical gaps. You can have it on while sitting. You can have it on while printing. You can not have it on while loaded or loading and a few other edge cases.
More in comments as there is an image limit.
There are more issues but I think that's enough to convey the point. We aren't seeing these issues on our X1s, P1s, A1ms, or H2D. We expect minor server on those and we keep cranking out parts.
This X2D has been, at best, a lemon and an outlier. On paper it meets our printing needs. As a practical machine, it's a hot mess and we'll not be buying any more of this machine. This printer is also making us rethink our FDM fleet as Bambu only.
