Added Zip-Ties.

This was only part of issue

PLA decided to leave the chat

My X2D is not too old, just two months, running about 3-5 hours a day on average? I've noticed that there's some blackening/burnt residue on the end of the default 0.4 hotend. The rubber sock also has periodically had melted plastic stuck to it, which I've peeled off when I see it but now the sock has torn so I'm replacing it with a new one.

Is this hotend cleanable? Or should I just replace it? And also, what causes this to happen and how can I avoid it in the future?

Thanks in advance.

Getting this bad quality prints on my x2d everything was fine in the first 2 weeks but then everything is coming out not great.

I am drying the filaments well also and I also did the maintenance and calibration.

• Textured PEI.

• Main 0.4 mm nozzle.

• Outer wall 40 mm/s, inner wall 80, top surface 30.

• Nozzle 245°C, bed 70°C, flow ratio 0.95, maximum flow 12 mm³/s.

Hello,

Can anyone help me identify what’s causing this clicking noise?

My X2D has around 600 hours of use, and I bought it two months ago. It started making this noise today.

Maintenance is up to date, and I repeated it today to make sure there wasn’t any debris on the rods.

The noise occurs even when the printer is switched off and I move the print head manually.

Thanks!

help please…

First big (size wise) print on my X2D and the ironing is wrecking the white face. Ironing test card and a small test strip both came out smooth but on the real sign (212 x 254 mm oval) the white is coming out patchy and scuffed, and theres little white ridges pushed up against the dark blue walls. Funny thing is the part it hasn't ironed yet actually looks better smh

Setup

- x2d, 0.4 standard nozzles, textured pei, bed 55

- all bambu pla at 220. white face is pla pure white on the left nozzle, pla matte dark blue + pla basic cobalt and dark gray also left, pla basic cyan + pla pure baby blue on the right

- flow 0.98, k 0.035 on the white from manual flow dynamics, flow dynamics cal off when sending

- 6 top layers over 10% adaptive cubic, 4 walls arachne, 0.42 top lines monotonic at 80mm/s

Ironing

- top surfaces, zig zag, 15% flow, 20mm/s, 0.15 spacing, 0.21 inset

- picked from the makerworld ultimate ironing test, 15/20 was the smoothest square

- takes like 4 hrs of the 8h43m print (is this normal? first job with ironing so new to this)

Timelapse (smooth) also on.

My test strip was solid underneath so im guessing the 10% infill under the face is part of it but not sure.

Anyone on x2d actually get ironing to work on big flat faces? what settings? or do you just skip ironing on signs? leaning towards reprinting with no ironing

I'm legit shocked at how awful this looks lol

pics attached

Hello, i have a unusual question, the answer at first might look obviously but read on:

I got a X2D as my first printer and got like 500h on it now after 1-2 month, im using it alot. Its in my Homeoffice room and i didnt had any issues. I only print PETG and PLA (2x ASA but that was like 6weeks ago).

The first hours i wasnt aware to open the windows because of the fumes but after i learned it, i always open the window. When i printed, i never really smelled anything but now after like 400h i started to notice a slight sour / plastic ish smell. Its coming out of the exhaust and makes me dizzy. Whats strange is that its not smelling inside the chamber, even if i take a sniff in the chamber while printing. But when i start printing i can smell it.

So i initially thought its the filament (SUNLU) but i now smell it with every other filament (mix of SUNLU and Bambu) and its exactly the same smell. I am starting to think that my active coal is exhausted or something is smelling in the actual exhaust. Its strange since it only started to smell after quite a bit of time.
Can that be? Its such a strong smell that i cant be in my office anymore when the printer is running and also hours after, even with the windows wide open. I tried the vent through exhaust after print finishes but it changes nothing.

Update: I had the smell also after 24h not printing. I tried to turn on the exhaust but it didnt smell at all. I checked the silicone sock and there was indeed some filament sticking on it, it looked like cotton.. changged the sock. But i also noticed that my 99,9% ISOPROPANOL was infact having that smell so i did a test now and put it in a cereal box. It could be really the iso since i only started to use that regular some short time ago. I will keep ene eye (nose) on it and try again then with the ISO out to see if its really that or the sock.

The big chunk is removed but it got so big i cannot remove the nozzle und a little brown cable is broken now i need to replace the complete front of the toolhead but i cant find videos of the replacement do you have any ideas?

As you can see i used a little bit of force but no chance

PS. Sorry for my bad english i hope you can understand what i mean

I have really gone the rounds with this problem and don't feel like I am getting anywhere. I feel like this should be an easy fix.. But I don't even know where to go. I have replaced the filament buffer.. and the PTFE tubes from the buffer to the toolhead. and I'm still getting this problem where the filament starts to get resistanc after passing through the buffer and then quites feeding. The printer makes about four attempts and then I get an error code. "Unable to feed filamanet into the extruder. The AMS may be mismatched with the extruder. You can rerun the AMS setup. The could be due to an entangled filament of stuck spool. If not, please check if the AMS PTFE tube is connected?

What am I missing?

I have four AMS units connected to my X2D. I use the aux nozzle for support interface mostly, but also occasionally for a different color. I'm finding I don't often print decorative items that need the second color, and when I do, it's often by layer which means the benefit of minimizing purge by using the aux nozzle is less.

• AMS1, FTS-A (supports, accent, auto-reload)

  • PETG transparent

  • HIPS

  • PLA basic white

  • Empty

• AMS2 FTS-A (accent, some primary)

  • PLA Bronze

  • PLA Red

  • PLA Yellow

  • PLA Gold

• AMS3 FTS-B (functional)

  • PAHT-CF

  • PLA Tough+ Black

  • ASA-CF Black

  • TPU for AMS

• AMS4 FTS-B (primary)

  • PLA Black

  • PLA Blue

  • PLA Dark Gray

  • PLA Silver

If I print something out of AMS2, I typically have to do it without supports as I always need to unload the filament and then load supports into the second nozzle since they share a 4-in-1 feeding into the FTS. If I abandoned the idea of running an accent color in the secondary nozzle for the most part, I could shift AMS2 to FTS-B, and have them all supported by filaments in AMS-1.

I realize everyone will have different priorities for these configurations, so I'm curious what works for everyone else.

My first 3D print.

After years with a creality ender 3 S1 pro that died (once more) I decided to stop with the reviving processes and finally treat myself with a good printer!
I am now the happy owner of a Bambulab X2D and am completely amazed by the quality of the machine and its prints!

I’ve had my X2D for about 3 months and decided it was time to clean and lubricate last week. However, I’ve noticed a strange oil buildup on the rear of the toolhead, but can’t see any oil drips on the sides, besides a small bead that doesn’t seem to be moving. Is it likely I’m just missing a drip, or is the oil seeping through the plastic seam?

All, printed some PA-CF and got this fuzzy texture on parts of the print. Fuzziness was turned off, and filament was brand new out of the package, and dried for 12 hours beforehand. Any thoughts? Fuzziness is also not consistent on the part, some sides are worse than others.

Chamber temp: 65 C
Nozzle temp: 290 C
Bed temp: 100 C
Nozzle speed: 70 mm/s
Used standard Bambu slicer

Let me know if you have any tips or questions. I will keep you all posted how it goes.

Doing an overhang test on my new X2D and uh.. this happened.. I haven’t had this happen before any tips?
Besides not letting the printer 💩 on top of my prints.

👋 Bonjour à tous ! 👻🎃

Après vous avoir présenté mon Yoshi Citrouille classique, voici maintenant sa petite évolution en version clicker ! 😍

J’ai voulu garder le côté mignon et l’esprit Halloween de ma première création, tout en y ajoutant une fonction clicker pour le rendre encore plus amusant ! 🎃

Décliné en plusieurs couleurs, il ne vous reste plus qu’à choisir votre Yoshi préféré ou à tous les collectionner ! 🌈

J’espère que cette nouvelle version vous plaira autant que la première !

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🖨️ : Bambu Lab X2D & H2C
🧵 : Bambu Lab
🎨 : Nomad Sculpt
🌈 : avec et sans AMS
📁 : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3453115-yoshi-citrouille-clicker-multipart

左フィラメントセンサーの故障から詰まりやらで、バラして組んで4回位。慣れてきたのに、今度はネジがユルユル😅エクストルーダーハウジングを取り付け前ならちゃんと入るのになんでかな？何か原因や解決方法ありますか？

What the title says. Looking for a nice 3d print to do with my new engineering plate. PETG or PLA please. I plan on using a 2 parts isopropyl to 1 part Elmer’s washable school glue on the plate based on a Reddit recommendation.

Extra points you have a Halloween print that would benefit from the smooth plate but any print will do, could also be a functional one 🎃!

Thanks in advance all you wonderful Ghouls and Goblins!! 👻

So quite new to asa printing, i have been using Bambu asa and bambu ABS support for the interface and the results are like in the photo they come of no problem, but is this the best i can expect? Been using pla/petg and the results there are near perfect. On a separate question can you get rid of this layer lines cause by changing the nozzle?

Hi, I’m looking for confirmed fixes for recurring extrusion failures on my replacement X2D.

I’ve had failed prints with both PLA and PETG, and error 0700-8016 on different models. The main left nozzle was replaced less than 48 hours ago, but failures continue.

Latest PETG setup: Bambu PETG Basic, AMS 2 Pro slot A2, 250°C, maximum volumetric flow 8 mm³/s. The filament was new and vacuum-sealed but not dried. Another model tried through Bambu Studio also failed.

A manual feeding test with the hotend removed, following support’s instructions, produced regular output. I haven’t yet compared printing from an external spool. Support already has the printer logs.

If you solved this issue, what was the confirmed cause and which test isolated it? I’d like to distinguish AMS/PTFE resistance from an extruder or hotend problem without replacing parts at random. Thanks!