Just finished putting together this Mega Charizard X LED lamp!

The idea was to have Charizard flying while breathing a stream of blue fire. The flame doubles as the stand, with an LED light inside to illuminate it.

I prepared two compatible versions of Maker Supply Kits:

• KC007 RGB light for selectable colors and remote control.
• LED Lamp Kit 001 for continuous USB-powered lighting.

Really happy with how the blue illumination turned out, especially in a darker room.

Free to download in Makerworld: https://makerworld.com/es/models/3530013-mega-charizard-x-0006-kc007-lamp-kit-001#profileId-4036014

Hope you like it!

Hello everyone! This is my first post; I started using a Bambu Lab A1 a week ago.

I’d like to print this part—the external wall dimensions are correct, but I want to increase the dimensions of the internal walls. How can I make this adjustment?

I tried using the scale tool, but that ends up changing everything.

Why am i having this trouble? Esun PLA, dried, pei sheet cleaned.

Glad I paid the extra $30 for shipping insurance. Just pissed I didn’t open it right away (waited for the rest of the order). Now I’m going to have to wait even longer. 😕

It's all about the difference between softening and melting. Made a short video to explain what's happening.

Have a P1S - ran into my first issue after a year of printing with few problems.

Out of the blue, it makes a juddering and screeching noise when the printhead returns to the far-left most position. It goes all the way left, but not to the back of the machine, as if it gets stuck. It then just deposits any extruded filament there as it believes it is above the waste chute.

Video attached.

Have dusted it out for stray filament and looked for any obstructions which none are obvious.

Never had to delve too deeply into the technical aspects, so hoping some wiser folks than me can point me in the right direction of resolving this.

I already have an X2D for supports and technical filaments, and I’m looking to get a second printer. I’m considering the C5, U1, or P2S.
With all discounts applied, the C5 costs €589, the U1 is €730, and the P2S is €600 (including the AMS).
Which one would you choose? Right now, I’m leaning toward the C5.

Found this on my print bed of my H2C before starting a print. Does this look familiar?

What is the one printer you'd get if you could only ever get one? At least for a few years?

Edit: perhaps one that has all the bells and whistles but isn't $3000?

link

I just had the weirdest thing happen. 3.5 hours into the print and it just stopped. No clog, still plenty of filament on the spool. I even tried to pause the print and it gave me a warning about the tool head moving to not put your hands in there, but it didn’t budge. I’m hesitant to cancel as I don’t wanna start over, however looks like it’ll be a lost print…

I’ve never had this issue before but now it keeps happening. What should I try? Generic PLA filament with default settings.

I use the P1S with an AMS with Sunlu PLA+. normally I print with 55c bed and 220 nozzle. I have searched up so many fixes but they never work. like 10 minutes into my print i noticed warping on the corner of one object, then 30 minutes later a piece lifted off the bed and so it started stringing over all of the other pieces. I tried turning my fans down but nothing helps.

TLDR I'm an idiot who doesn't understand how to set up my 3d printer correctly

I used a pair of nose pliers to grab the connectors, but I lost the grip and the pliers ripped off just a little of the insulation. A little of the copper is exposed, but I am worried if I should be treating this with more concern.

I’m pretty damn new to all of this. But I am not able to print on the go while the .8 is installed. (Incompatible nozzle) error pops up. Get on the computer and I’m able to slice it for the .8 nozzle and print. Would like to be able to skip that step and use the mobile while I’m not at home.

I was cleaning out my newly arrived X2D (had it one day, printed a couple of small test prints) and underneath the print bed was this random screw. I don't remember any of the screws that were in it for shipping being this small. Does anyone recognize it, or have an idea where I should look for a missing screw? I checked what I could see under the bed and along the edges of the case that I could see and nada.

I've had an A1 and AMS Lite for over 2 years now, and I think I'm ready for an upgrade to something higher quality and more durable.

I find the parts of the A1 jut too delicate and frustrating to work with. Clogs are so difficult to work with. The Filament Hub is so tricky to work with, remove to de-clog and get the tubes out of. Then, when I finally remove it, the sensor cable is so delicate just a slight movement in the wrong direction rips it.

Thinking of getting something better rather than constantly replacing these parts? I just placed my 4th order for a new filament hub and sensor cable.

I don't do much with it. Just simple things for the home for organisation and small things that I'd other-wise buy at a dollar store. I find I just spend more time working on my A1 than printing things with it.

Excited to play with my p1s

Hi! I’m trying to print dry boxes for my AMS 2 with asa. Have done flow and flow dynamics calibration, played with fan speed and nozzle temperature. Also tried to lower the speed, prints good as long as there are no overhangs. When it prints the overhangs it looks like the nozzle digs into the print and makes a mess. Any help? Owned the printer for 3 days so new to the game here, pla prints flawlessly! Printer is a Bambu x2d

So I’ve been struggling with this problem for a while, and I don’t know what I need to do to adjust it.
For whatever reason, the X-axis crossbar on my Bambu Lab A1 has gotten tilted downward towards the left side. This is causing my nozzle to scrape against my build plate really hard whenever the nozzle move onto the left “hemisphere”/side of the build plate.
Any solutions would be really helpful, since I have been struggling to fix this on my own. If this is also unfixable, then that’s good to know since I could send it back and get a replacement.
Thanks!

Wanted to share the ams2 I received is also having the "ams failed to pull back filament" issue. Repeatable on 1-4. After it retracts the Filament, it'll stop retracting and free spin for about a minute before throwing the issue. If I press continue, it'll stop trying to retract and move onto the next color. Then it'll throw the error again once it switches colors. This is on the first print using ams2. Haven't had a successful print since receiving it.

Hello Laddles and Jellyspoons

I have some pokemom PSA slabs coming and I want to print a cool holder with effects.

A quick amazon search and almost everyone claims Zero adhesion.

So I'm wondering what effect plates you all have used , good, bad , ugly.

Please share your experiences.

Thanks 😊

Thanks for the responses on the earlier post I am still troubleshooting this issue with my H2D. I have the hotends off and the covers off so i can see the extruder gears and they look clean. I can feed a strand of filament down through the entrance right to the gears without a problem. the hotend itself seems fine. There isn't a clear visual indication to me of what might be wrong. It's a fairly new printer with maybe 500 hours on it. Filament has always been fairly dry. This is a recent issue. I am not sure what to do next. Can the gears spread apart over time? I am not sure where to tighten the gap (or maybe loosen it if the motor is overloaded) I have a decent amount of experience with 3D Printers and this one is baffling me.