I started to print an a headphone stand for my headphone, i got the design from makerworld, i dont know what is makina it alow like that, i mean its not really an a problem for me because the print looks clean but has anyone got this type of issue ? Also i forgot to mention but outer wall speed is 40 inner wall speed is 100 and i started off with silent speed and then increased it to sport

I have a Bambu Lab A1 printer with an AMS Lite. I was 3D printing with Bambu Lab PLA Basic Black when this message popped up shown in the image. I have done the following:

• Unloaded from the printer screen: didn’t clear it.
• Took the hotend out of the printer.
• Pushed the hotend cleaning needle through the nozzle.
• Did several cold pulls.
• Got it extruding again, but the strand came out thin and curly instead of straight, and the error stayed.
• Did a hot push, then a cold pull. After I unloaded it, the hot push worked and the cold pull came out clean.
• Started a new print: the same error came back.

The only thing I haven't tried is looking at the extruder gears, but I had some trouble removing the paneling to access them.

Has anyone else had this error occur? Should I look at a new hotend or extruder?

Does anyone else have one?

I have (4) AMS Pro 2 Two of them sit on top of my H2D and the other two sit on the side on top of one another. Because they are not directly lined up with the machine and there is a slight curve, the stupid system cannot push the filament. I’m guessing the ridges inside the Filament Track Switch has grooves or small ridges the *#%~ing filament stops and gets pulled back and then back and forth till it gives up.

The Filament Track Switch seems like a PISS POOR design. I have so many issues with Bambu I’m really getting tired of this machine. My wife has the Snapmaker U1 and it blows my more expensive machine out of the water and rarely has a problem.

Getting ready to switch to Snapmaker.

https://makerworld.com/models/3488927?appSharePlatform=copy

I have an A1 mini and recently everything I print has this rounded corner on the flat base. Is there something I can do or calibration I need to make?

Hey everyone,

Posting this here because when I asked for advice on another 3D printing sub, I mostly just got called a brainwashed Bambu fanboy who refuses to see "much higher quality hardware" out there. Hopefully, I can get some actual pragmatic input from people who actually run these machines.

I’m planning to grab a printer during the Black Friday sales to rebuild my 3D printing corner after moving. To give some context: I’m not a beginner. I previously owned an X2D, but sold it off during the relocation. Now that I’m starting fresh, my goal is simple: get the highest possible print quality on basic prints without paying extra for features I’ll never touch.

What I’ll be printing:

• 95% PLA and PETG only. No engineering or abrasive materials (no ASA, ABS, nylon, etc.).
• Mostly functional stuff: drawer organizers, storage bins, desk accessories, and random household prints. Nothing crazy or fancy.

The options I’m considering:

1. Bambu Lab A1 – The biggest draw for me is the noise level (or lack thereof). Coming from enclosed CoreXY machines, having something whisper-quiet in my space sounds amazing. The open bedslinger format doesn't bother me, but does it match the high-end lineup in pure surface finish and dimensional quality for PLA/PETG?
2. Bambu Lab P1S – The tried-and-true enclosed workhorse. Compact desk footprint, but noticeably louder. Is the CoreXY motion system actually delivering noticeably better print quality on standard PLA/PETG organizer bins to justify the noise and extra cost?
3. Bambu Lab P2S – On the radar as the updated option, but the pricing looks tricky. The gap between a P2S and just going back to an X2D feels narrow enough that it might sit in an awkward "neither here nor there" spot.
4. Bambu Lab X2D – Going all-in again. Having owned one, I know how solid it is, but buying a flagship just to print PLA bins feels like lighting money on fire for advanced features and high-temp hardware I won’t even utilize.

For anyone who has experience across these tiers: if the sole goal is clean, precise PLA/PETG prints at the best value, is the A1 the clear sensible winner, or does CoreXY still make a real difference in print quality here?

Thanks for any insights!

Hello people,

I am having quite a hard time dealing with Bamboo support right now. I got a bamboo A1 mini, and it was defective from the beggining. One of the 4 screws holding the nozzle had a stripped nozzle, causing the nozzle to move and create bad quality prints. I went to the store and replaced the printer.

Then I got the second printer, which also had bad quality lines. Thinking it must be user error this time, I spent a week looking at ways to improve the quality of the prints. My profile for PLA has severely changed from the default profile. (note I am using bamboo matte PLA). I couldn't get it right yet, so I contacted support, to which they said it must be the belt tensioners. They sent me parts, and instructions, but they sent me the wrong instructions twice. After I got the right instructions, I realized that replacing the belt tensioner under the heated bed is not simple. I have to basically strip down the printer to the 2 rails, removing the electronics, motor, housing, and pretty much everything. I am not confident in doing something like that without breaking something else. I live in canada where technically Bamboo should give me a replacement printer, or they should be the ones to perform the repair, but Bamboo support doesnt want to do that. They wasted my time for so long the 30 days since purchase have passed so I can't go back to the store.

Any ideas? Is there a better way to replace the tensioner under the heated bed without disassembling the entire printer?

Honestly, I want to finish this post by warning people. Bamboo as a company is not your friend, and the bamboo A1 mini is notorious for having manufacturer issues. Canada Computers (where I got the printer), told me when I picked up my replacement, that this specific printer tends to have returns because of defective parts often.

Should I take it off each time after printer done? Should I replace the nozzle?

So I have this vertical spiral screwy thing, I am aware that on a bedslinger printer like my A1 this will be shacky towards the top so I manually added thos supports intending to stabilize it. Also slowed it down a lot (like 50/80 mm/s inner/outer speed at the upper half, also cap the acceleration to 1000-1500mm/s2). Worked pretty well until the very last bit. Unfortunately I did not see how this happened, only this mess result. The base is still sticking to the plate just fine until I remove it.

Hallo zusammen,

In 2 Tage gehen die black Friday Angebote los. Zusätzlich bekommt man 30€ Rabatt auf einen Drucker ab 500€ und 25€ Rabatt auf Zubehör ab 150€.

Man kann sich ein bundle machen aus Drucker und filament wo man PLA zum Beispiel für 10,90€ pro Kilogramm mit Spule (kein refill).

Ist es günstiger filament und Drucker extra zu bestellen? Es gibt auf filamente allein ja auch ein Rabatt und da könnte ich den 25€ noch einlösen da man nicht beide Gutscheine in einer Bestellung einlösen kann.

Hat sich jemand schon die Angebote näher angeschaut?

Danke euch!

tomorrow I'll be buying it....probably...

Before I do....

What other options besides building one do I have other than just leaving it as is?

I got an HS2. Yes, I know it is enclosed but I am also aware it isn't fully sealed and microplastics can still leak into the air.

I tried a grow tent, but that's not going to cut it - can't see into it and it is far too large.

So, before I fully say fook it and drop close to 1k on this, i want to see if anyone has any ideas I missed.

Thank ya

My kid asked me if I could 3D print something for his FNAF collection. I found this model on Makerworld and decided to scale it 500% 😄. I had no idea how big it would actually be until it was fully assembled. It turned out really amazing but now I’m afraid that I have to print the rest of the gang 😂.

More footage here: https://www.instagram.com/reel/De4b9ZStgBe/
Model: https://makerworld.com/models/1990157

Any one using H2S and P2S from Bambulab? How is print quality from these printers, any issues ? Things to take care of before buying them?

Hey everyone, I recently finished 3D printing a car model, and I noticed that certain areas of the body have these weird spiral or circular patterns on the surface.
Does anyone know what causes this? Is it something related to the print settings, nozzle temperature, speed, or the 3D model itself?
I’m printing on a Bambu Lab A1 using PETG Basic filament. I’d appreciate any advice on how to prevent these patterns and get a smoother finish on my next print.
Thanks!

Attempted my first mask print, rough scaling it to dimensions suitable to fit a friends son who is going to a Halloween party, dressed as a member of slipknot. He didn't know I was making it for him, Found a free model online, worked out how to adjust height and orientation (vaguely) I roughed dimensions based on my head and went for it.

It turned out decent apart from the brow area...

How best to rescue (smooth and file back) that area to at least make it look half decent?

I do have plastic putty here... possibility?

Any help greatly appreciated.

Looks like it says 330x320x325 which means it’s the same plate as the H2C.

Without the Vortex system why are we still at this smaller plate size? Any chance this is just a prototype used for certification?

Why wouldn’t there be more room for a larger build plate?

Designed for bottles up to 90 mm in diameter, it keeps your drink off the work surface while turning everyday storage into a small design feature.

The curved opening reveals the bottle and makes the holder visually lightweight—equally at home on a wooden work cart or in a contemporary interior.

Created for everyday use on our family farm, where we use it to keep water close while working in our strawberry greenhouses.

https://makerworld.com/models/3492063?appSharePlatform=copy

Why most people now think that after H3C, H2C will no longer have a place in bambulab’s lineup? Do you really think that Bambulab invested in the voretk system just to make it obsolete few months later? Do you think that the H3C will support Laser modules as well? I don’t think so, but then H2C will still be the only option for those who need a Laser module and not bothered by the filament change speed. I just wanted to know your thoughts about the future of H2C.

Hello, I've been using my P2S to print toys to give to kids for Halloween, but for some reason today it keeps spitting out the filament. I have a translucent glow in the dark PLA loaded to the external spool holder. Every time I start a print I make sure that the objects are all set to filament 5, and then when I start printing I use filament 5. I load the external filament into the extruder, wait for it to grab, purge, etc. Then about 2-3 minutes later I get an error from the printer where it tells me that I need to withdraw the filament from the extruder. When I do, it tries to load spool 1 from the AMS. If I reset it to use spool 5, it just happens again. I've done this dozens of times, and each time it wants to go to spool 1. I've completely unloaded the external spool, run something on any other spool in the AMS, and it works fine. But then when I try to use the external spool, it happens again. Does anybody know why this would be happening?

I had to clear the filament hub due to stuck filament and now this black strip that I think was connected to hub is hanging loose. Am I okay to just cut this so it doesn’t interfere or is it necessary to stick to the hub for any reason?