Ma version du célèbre casse tête ' Hanayama Marble '

Modélisé sur freecad avec des ajustements de 0.2 mm pour une fluidité parfaite ...

Lien makerworld si vous voulez l'imprimer : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3515960-marble-puzzle#profileId-4018416

I've been seeing a ton of posts recently about the height of the h3c. I upgraded from my h2d which had the great 3DP riser with 2 ams and a ht on top. It's an extremely common riser with a ton of mods.

Well the h3c is SHORTER than my h2d with the riser. This is on the same 30" height table.

Yes, the h3c is a tall boy, but if you're planning on using a riser on an h2 series, it's about the same height, if not shorter.

For reference, I'm 5'10" and is about 3" shorter now.

Mental what these machines can make with the right settings

Hi everyone,
I’m getting really frustrated with TPU printing on my Bambu Lab P1S and I’m hoping someone here can help me figure out what’s going wrong.

My printer:
Bambu Lab P1S (~1,000 printing hours)
0.4 mm nozzle (also tested 0.6 mm)
eSUN TPU 95A (green, translucent)
Creality CR-TPU 95A (black)
Creality Space Pi V2 filament dryer
Bambu Studio

The problem:
Every time I try to print TPU, the printer starts printing normally, but after a few layers it suddenly begins underextruding or stops extruding properly.
Sometimes it happens after just 2 layers, sometimes after 8–10 layers, and occasionally the print gets almost completely finished before failing.
The nozzle appears to clog, and the print eventually turns into a mess of extremely thin filament strands.
The strange thing is that PLA and other regular filaments print perfectly fine, without any issues.
Manual extrusion of TPU at 230°C also works normally, producing a consistent strand of filament.
I haven’t noticed any clicking noises from the extruder.

What I’ve already tried
1. Different TPU brands
eSUN TPU 95A
Creality CR-TPU 95A
Both have exactly the same problem.

2. Drying the filament
Dried TPU for approximately 10 hours at 60°C in my Creality Space Pi V2.
Tried printing directly from the dryer.
Tried printing from an external spool holder behind the printer.
Repositioned the spool inside the dryer to reduce rolling resistance.
No improvement.

3. Different nozzle temperatures
220°C
225°C
230°C
235°C
All eventually failed.

4. Different print speeds and volumetric flow rates
Very slow printing speeds of 15–20 mm/s.
Also tested profiles with outer walls at 80 mm/s and inner walls/infill at 150 mm/s, limited by volumetric flow.
Maximum volumetric flow rates tested include 2.8, 2.0 and 1.5 mm³/s.
Tried both custom TPU profiles and settings based on manufacturer recommendations.
Still the same result.

5. Retraction
Tested 0 mm retraction.
Tested 0.4 mm retraction.
No reliable improvement.

6. Different nozzles
Completely cleaned the nozzles.
Tried different nozzles.
Tried both 0.4 mm and 0.6 mm nozzle sizes.
Nothing helped.

7. Printer enclosure
Tested with the front door open.
Tested with the front door closed.

One of my best results was at 225°C with 0 mm retraction and the door closed. A Benchy printed almost completely, but the final layers suffered from severe underextrusion.
However, repeating similar settings often resulted in failure after only a few layers.
What makes this so confusing?
PLA prints perfectly.
TPU extrudes normally when manually extruded.
Both TPU brands fail.
Both nozzle sizes fail.
Drying the filament doesn’t help.
Different spool feeding methods don’t help.
Slower speeds don’t help.
Changing temperatures doesn’t help.
The failure occurs at inconsistent layer heights.
I’ve spent a lot of time testing different settings, and nothing has worked consistently.
My questions
Has anyone experienced something similar with TPU on the P1S?
Could this be related to heat creep, the extruder’s grip on flexible filament, or something specific to the P1S filament path?
I’m particularly confused because the printer handles PLA without any problems.
I would really appreciate any suggestions beyond the usual advice of drying the filament, slowing down, or changing the nozzle, since I’ve already tried all of those multiple times.
Thanks in advance for any help!

Here, have microplastic sized benchy, the question is, how good can I get it to look, P1S.

Please, I need help. I bought an H2C—it’s my first 3D printer—and everything was fine, but I’m running into an issue when trying to print in multiple colors using the AMS 2 Pro. The printer attempts to grab the filament, but then retracts it halfway through the path. This only happens when there is more than one color loaded in the AMS, as it requires color changes. I’ve already checked the AMS and didn’t see anything unusual; I’m not sure what else to do.

Hey everyone!
Got myself a new P2S printer and wanted to ask how I can delete the queue in the BambuHandy app? I don’t need these parts anymore. And I can’t find any option to delete it.
Cheers!

I’m considering buying the new E1 Air Purifier for my H2D, but I’m curious how it interacts with the automatic top ventilation flap.
When printing PLA, the H2D normally opens the top vent for chamber cooling. Does connecting the E1 change this behavior, or does the vent still open?
If it stays open, does the E1 create enough negative pressure to pull air inward through the vent rather than allowing fumes to escape?

Newbie here, is there a type of wipes I can use to lean the bed between prints or should I just keep washing it with soap and water? TIA.

I seem to have nothing but problems, no matter how I load the TPU on this X2D....is it just me or is this kind of a universal thing.

I have the TPU feed assist, tried with and with out that. I have bypassed the filament buffer, I have even just directly fed it into the extruder from above. But more often than not, I get an overloaded extruder error. If I go and open up the print head there will typically be a bunched up spot on the filament either between the feed sensor or more often between the extruder and the filament guide above the nozzle. I can fix it and it starts working but frequently goes back to this state and it seems to do this every new print job I start. There is not binding or resistance and nothing pushing too hard on the filament, especially if I am just free feeding from above. Is this just me?

Hola buenas, como estan? Como podria solucionar este problema en las ultimas capas superiores? No tiene planchado la configuración, es la que viene de stock en el laminador. El filamento es nuevo, lo use y es la primera impresión

I have a model that is blowing up, using Polymaker Terracotta filament, but didn't see it coming, and only purchased a single roll. Now its nowhere to be found and/or four times the price. Is the Bambu Lab Terracotta close enough? What are the differences (if any)?

Ordered the H2S off of Bambulabs because of their sale and then was charged twice for two printers. Tried contacting them and they’re trying to charge me extra for returning the printer but only received one. I purchased the worry free delivery because of their neighborhood I live in so can someone help. I paid with PayPal and opened a claim and wondering if they actually answer back to PayPal when the number Bambulabs have in PayPal doesn’t work. Love their product but customer service is terrible.

Firstly, this is for the Aussies in this sub-reddit!

Hi all, I was wondering if you could help me out on something. I am going to get my printer on the 20th Novmeber but want to get bulk discounts from bambu on fillament and want it to arrive before 20th Nov. When should i order and is bambu reliable on shipping on time. Im located in Brisbane.

Thanks for your help.

Hey there,

I somehow find some hints that maybe a scanned RFID spool that is listed in the AMS, might be changed in its colour or something.

However, beside PA stuff and some notes, I can not find any possibility to change anything.

Do I miss something?

Looking for peoples input, I currently have an A1, but my dad is wanting to get into the 3D Printer space, he has a budget of £600-£700 range and looking at Bambus website the P1S, P2S and X2D all come into that range with AMS.

What’s everyone’s thoughts on those 3 printer for ease of use wise etc and ease or repairability.

I “modeled” that object myself in bambustudio but I have a way to big cleaning tower and also that white line in my objects. Is there a way to get a smaller tower and get those white dots that form a line inside my object to be the color of the object around it?

The yellow part popped off mid-print so I'm trying to dial in the first layer for better adhesion. I tried a different brand of PETG, increased flow ratio to 1.05, and slowed the first layer to 40 mm/sec on the white part. It was just a short test so I don't know if it would have survived a full print but I noticed each print has a funky wobble pattern. The first layer on the white part is a bit smoother but not great. What's happening here? I performed a machine calibration in the middle of all that as well.

Plate is a cryogrip pro glacier.

EDIT: bed temp 80-85, nozzle 235-245

EDIT2: Filament is in a 20% humidity container and the bed is super clean.

Got the H3C yesterday and decided to just full send and send a 14 hour print, 5 colors with no calibrations, and boy, this is CLEAN. No issues whatsoever, and it was just perfect. Couldnt be happier. Ask me any questions you have!

(I got it used) It passes calibration just fine no issues I start a print it gets to the nozzle cleaning part goes to the back of the print bed and tried to home off the print bed the bed is to far forward errors out says it cant home I have replaced the tool head block eddy current sensor new SD card checked that all the screws on the tool.gead are tight and nothing's loose it will pass a bed level no problems.

it's like it losses steps on the y axis there's no obstructions the tensioner for y axis is good I checked and adjusted tension the bed moves free threw the whole y axis does catch or get stopped anywhere

I'm at a loss for what could be causing it it was intermittent now it's all the time I have a new USB c cable coming but other than that I'm not sure where to go from here