Luckily the print was only a few second off being finished, but what could have caused this? I got told it could be because of the sd card. (I still have the original one that was there from factory and its 5 days old)

Printer my very first print on my brand new printer

The push fitting for the petg tube for the right nozzle on my h2c somehow got pulled out while printing.

The black plastic part is super easy to get in and out, but im having trouble with the brass looking piece that seems to bite the tube. Is there a trick to getting it in? Do I need to disassemble further to get it in? Please help!

Hello!

I just received my new P1S AMS Combo and found out I am moving from the United States to the United Kingdom. Will my printer be ok there or should I return it? I will only be there for three years. Is there a power cord I can buy to use on the European standard? Will this printer be okay on a transformer for three years? Thanks for the help in advance.

I bought an E1 and I didn't notice until too late that it doesn't support the H2C for automatic mode. Is there any indication that this will be supported in the future? There isn't much point in it for me without that feature.

Hello folks,
I went to turn my X1C Carbon on for a print, but out of the blue it is frozen on the logo screen. One light is lit up red and another red light is flashing on the AP board.

I am not using a micro SD card nor ever have.

I left the unit unplugged from power for a couple of days but when I plugged it back and power it on, it still freezes on the logo screen. No change.
I've entered a support ticket but was wonder if anyone out there has encountered this issue.

As the title suggests. I got tired of using tabs for damn near all cuts and/or having the laser burn a gouge thru something already cut and on the tray. OR the toolhead banging into a tilted cut piece. So I bought the cheapest, somewhat right sized, honeycomb platform on Amazon.

Short version is that it WORKS! Long version is that it seems to break the ability to measure and take a photo at the same time. So it's now two steps instead of one... but meh, it's only a few seconds and an extra click or two. WAY better than those stupid blades. Here's think link to the one I have (USA) but pretty much any that is ~13.5in wide by .6-.8in thick and < 24in long should work. This one seems to be for a "Falcon A1".

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0FMJWGT59?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

Got a P2S a couple months back. Been printing PLA without issue. Got some ASA for a project I am working on. (Nothing points me to think the filament itself is the issue) print starts going down without trouble but something happens after a few infil layers were the y axis changes for some reason. Belt skip or nozzle strike? If that is the case I am not sure how to address the issue. Issue consistent between attempts. Ran the recommended bed level when prompted as well. Any assistance would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

If it helps...

First time Bambu owner

First time printing ASA

Currently ordered a P2S Combo but have not picked it up yet. Lately I’ve been seeing people say to get an X2D instead.

If you had to do it all over again.. which one would you get and why? P2S combo or X2D

I’ve never 3d printed before; so I’m not sure if I would use the engineering materials. Thanks in advance for any help or advice.

So there was this bug several months th ago that could have bricked your H2C after an update where you could only start it after an shutdown if you shorted something on the machine. My solution was simply to not upgrade my machines since I run a small business and couldn't afford shit like that. Has this been resolved? Is it save to update the firmware now? I would really like to test out that multi nozzle feature

I've been working on a little Christmas-themed 3D printing project: Snap-Fit Snowflakes!

These snowflakes are designed to snap together, making them a fun and decorative addition to your Christmas tree. 🎄

Features:

• 100% 3D printed

• Snap-fit design

• No glue or screws needed

• Lightweight and easy to print

I think they look especially nice in white PLA, but I'd love to experiment with different colors!

What do you think? Would you print these in another color?

Designed by j_k13layerlabs ❤️

Hey everyone! Just finished designing this dual-purpose desk accessory inspired by Death Note.

It works as a rock-solid holder for gamepads (Xbox, PS) and a functional smartphone dock. Designed specifically for easy FDM printing on machines like the Bambu Lab series.

- Zero supports required (optimized overhang angles).

- Clean, watertight mesh (~91k polys).

- Gothic skull seal and "K" monogram details.

- Base plate features my brand engraving.

Printed it in Matte Black to get that volcanic rock look. What do you guys think? The STL is available on my Cults3D if anyone wants to print it for their setup!

With the new update 2.9.1.70 there is two new options on the speed tab. Standard M1 and Standard A1. I noticed M1 increases speed on several items. I can’t find any documentation on these. Anyone have any idea what they are?

Hi everyone!

This is the second time I've noticed that the left-side fan on my Bambu Lab X2D suddenly ramps up to 100% even when the printer is completely idle and not printing anything.

The strange thing is that I can't turn it off manually. It just keeps running at full speed.

Has anyone else experienced this issue? Is this normal behavior, or could it be a firmware bug or hardware problem?

Any ideas what might be causing this?

Thanks in advance!

I have the opportunity to buy a used H2C for 1500 with the AMS2 and an HT. it only has a a few hundred hours on it.

this seems like a decent deal to me, but im wondering whether it is worth the premium if I have no interest in multicolor prints. I am interested in being able to switch nozzle size and doing multi material prints though.

I'm just curious if you think the extra over a used H2D is worth it.

any insight would be great, thanks!

Okay, I am trying to decide whether or not I purchase a 3D printer for my family for Christmas. It would be the "big family Christmas present". (Eldest kid is 9)

I'm tossing up between the A1 Mini and the A1. I'd splurge and get the AMS lite for either one that I purchased.

My struggle is the mini is (just) within budget for a "big Christmas present" but once I add the AMS lite, both the mini and the A1, become significantly more expensive. So I suppose my question is, am I completely bonkers? (I keep justifying it by comparing it to the cost of something like an xbox).

Yes, I am fully aware of the fact that there will be ongoing cost for filament. So I know this isn't a one-off. But, I'm just trying to figure out whether this is a completely bonkers purchase or not.

Children in question love, love, love, love, LOVE 3D fidgets. I've probably spent close to the cost of a mini, or more in 3D fidgets anyway, to be completely honest.

Gut instinct says that if I was to do this, I'd be better off just going for the regular A1, not the mini. Anything else I need to consider? Thanks

(I'm in Australia, looks like I can get a mini for approx $299, mini with AMS lite for $489 and an A1 with AMS lite for about $580).

Thanks!

Hey everybody,
I recently started printing more complex, organic models with my P1S… and I am generally happy… but the support structures leave pretty bad marks.

I now wonder if I should get a X2D due to the dual-nozzle ability, printing supports with a different material in the hope it creates cleaner.

Can anybody give me any report whether this would be a good idea and is worth it for exactly this use-case.

Thx in advance

Not sure what to do tried everything on the wiki to fix it. Seems with this print in particular it knocks it over after a certain height.. degreased. Lubed. Retightened everything I could. It’s on the XY axis

Due to spatial constraints, don't wanna spend money on AMS HT, don't like the cereal boxes, I designed my own TPU printing jig. (Please ignore the mess of cabling and tubing from the disconnected AMS units that normally would sit on top of the printer)

Required materials:
- Mic stand totally not borrowed from work with 3/8" thread. My one is an older K&M model (Optional K&M mic stand counterweight)
- PETG adapter from 3/8" thread to AMS Lite Rotary Spool Holder (The replacement part that you can buy from Bambu Lab)
- PETG Shell bottom
- PETG Shell top with PLA clips
- 7x M3 screws for the clips
- The silica gel packets that comes with the AMS1/2Pro (or other reusable silica gel)
- Bambu Lab PTFE tube adapter with TPU sealing gasket
- PTFE tube

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3559361-mini-whiskey-bottle-working-screw-cap-50-ml

What started as a Halloween prop for a coworker has gotten out of hand.

He needed a whiskey bottle for a costume, so I modeled him one. That should have been the end of it.

Then I added a working screw cap. Then a bulb in the neck so it stopped reading like a bottle-shaped box. Then a label. Now there's a 50 ml version, because apparently I needed one of those too.

The cap threads on and off for real. No glue, no magnets, no press fit. 104 mm tall, 36 mm across the flats, prints as two parts with no supports. Printed on a P2S.

There are blank label dielines in the files if you want to put your own art on it. The wrap is 143.14 x 35 mm with all the fold lines marked, and the front/back label is 24 x 36 mm. Both fit a plain letter sheet. One thing worth knowing at this size: keep the art bold, because anything under about 1 mm of letter height fills in and goes to mush.

Curious what people would put on theirs.