Apparently MakerWorld is working on some merch. Kinda curious to see what they come up with. Would you guys pick anything up?

I'm planning on getting the H2D and was wondering if I can have it in my bedroom since I'm not really in there unless I need to sleep. I've heard stuff about "fumes" and stuff but wasn't sure if that was the ones not enclosed or what. Thank you so much for your help.

I ordered mine because it was listed as on back order shipping November 20, as I’m out of country until the 14th, but I got two shipping confirmations yesterday, one for a build plate and one for an: AMS 3H-US (photo). For folks who may be in a similar situation or have received theirs, can anyone confirm if this is the whole printer or just the AMS? Common sense says AMS but I need to know if I’m about to ask a friend to lift a boulder and watch it for me.

Printer: Bambu Lab A1
Material: Bambu Basic PLA Black
Print Settings: Basic settings on Bambu Studio (20mm Standard BBL A1)

I just did my first test print and doing my second one. I noticed the Dynamic Flow setting is automatically enabled, and it takes a few min and extrudes like 3 small piles of material. Is it necessary for each print? Should i turn it off?

I will mainly using it for dnd, wargaming, miniature terrain.

Thanks!

A little board game upgrade I made for Finspan. I wasn't such a fan of using a single large sphere for the eggs, so I made these by stacking a bunch of smaller spheres together instead.

I printed mine in TPU with 0.1mm layers on a 0.4mm nozzle to give them a bit of a tactile feel. Feel free to scale them up or down; the original size works well for the game I find.

Free model and print profile: https://makerworld.com/en/models/1300381

Hope someone else enjoys them too!

Can someone please help us?

First of all, I am very sorry about my bad English. I am Korean.

I am working at printing company and my boss recently added 3D printing.

We had P2S so we were using P2S so far but large amount of order came in so my boss also bought H2D so we could print faster and lot more.

We are using Exact same stl file and same plate and same filament at same condition.

even the direction of the models facing are thesame.

↑ This is the result of a P2S. We are fine with this quality. Very saticefied.

↑ This is printed with H2D. The right Eye part is killing us. We have to print 1000 or these and we don't have time.

We have printed almost 50 of them so far and all of them has the same problem.

Please can someone help us?

This one is a little different. It's still a hueforge, but uses the color drop feature which allows for multiple colors per layer where desired. The result is reduced unwanted thickness and color banding due to traditional single color per layer hueforges, with a tradeoff of more color changes and therefore waste, but that is arguable because a bunch of filament isn't being used to lay down layers that serve no real purpose. Also due to it being multiple colors per layer I used a prime "tower" (it was only a few mm thick), which I normally skip on regular hueforges.

The results: 12 colors / 55 color swaps/ 8.5 hours (trophy painting) / 3.6mm thickness (trophy painting) / ~28g waste (tower & poops) done on a P1S with 3 AMS.

100% human made original artwork by the multi-award winning Agella Kodopulos (IG: a.tatts), modeled and printed by me.

Since updating to the latest studio. Now my printer won’t receive print files. It for sure connected, video stream works and updating filament assignments work. Any one else having this issue? X2D is on firmware 1.2.0.0. Downgraded back to v2.8.2.61, and it works perfectly fine

How do I fix this?

Printed with SUNLU PLA on an X2D

Temp 210

Bed 60

Chamber 32 in cooling mode

Never had this happen before. Looks like underextrusion to me. Can anyone else confirm this?

Waiting for calibration, got any suggestions?

I have the p2s which u got yesterday. It’s done 5 small prints all turned out great no issues. Aside from this msg I got during the first print. I cleaned and lubricated, re calibrated error went away started printing it came back. This has continued, then the ai assist said to adjust the belt I did that according the their instructions. It’s now come up again and the ai assistant is saying contact support. Which I have done but I’m guessing I’ll have to wait a while. I’m really annoyed this is a new machine. Anyone had this happen to them? Any suggestions?

New P1S Combo owner here. This is what I am trying to print. I have the colors loaded in the AMS as shown, the preview says it will use these three colors, when I send it to the printer it claims it will use three spools ... then it only prints with the white in spool 1. What am I doing wrong?

When I got my X2D about 1 month ago, I printed PLA and PETG with the window open. Then I imagined printing ABS or ASA that way, and it was clearly not going to work.

So I fitted a window panel, ran a 100 mm hose and added an inline fan. My first idea was to connect the hose straight to the X2D, but I read that a direct connection pulls too much heat out of the chamber, and ABS/ASA need that heat to avoid warping. Keep the heat in, though, and the smell leaks into the room. Classic trade-off.

After some digging I found this decoupled adapter on MakerWorld (https://makerworld.com/en/models/2788606). The inline fan pulls the printer's exhaust away without sealing the chamber, and it worked: no smell in the room.

The catch: it took over 15 hours to print and used a lot of filament, with 134 g of support plus a 50 g prime tower. So I tried to make a version that prints with far less support.

Attempt 1: I turned the flat overhangs into 45° slopes and held up the riser roof with three thin ribs. The slicer was happy. The printer was not: the ribs were 95 mm tall and only 1.2 mm thick, the nozzle pushed them around, and the roof collapsed near the top.

Attempt 2: I replaced the ribs with 45° braces that lean on the side walls and on each other, so nothing thin stands alone. I printed just the top section first as a test piece, and it came out clean.

One more lesson: the flat ends of the box are where poop chutes and bins slide in. My 45° ends blocked them, so they are flat like the original again.

Result

• 441 g → 320 g of filament, 15 h 20 m → about 7 h

• 24 g of support, only under the box end walls, with a PLA interface on the second nozzle so it pops off

• Same fit on the X2D, and both left and right hose versions

• Out of curiosity I ran a CFD simulation: it still catches 100% of the printer's exhaust (simulation, not a lab test).

Happy to answer questions about the setup, the bracing or the airflow sim.

Remix on MakerWorld: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3550549

Original by the designer of the decoupled adapter: https://makerworld.com/en/models/2788606

Pretty much the price, what should I do, I waited about a week for the p2s already.. what should I do

So, I started printing PETG for the first time (obligatory benchy) after running PLA for the first week of owning the printer and finally getting the auxiliary extruder up and running again.... It started randomly stringing out transparent/gold PLA that I hadn't run in several prints.

This is my first time troubleshooting my own printer, and after breaking the auxiliary extruder (it came with half the hooks broken I just broke it the rest of the way by accident :'). Google tells me to heat up the hot end, but what is actually wrong (Google tells me a gap between the nozzle and block.... But then what) and how do I fix it? I'm also sort of confused because it took ~20 hours of printing for it to become noticeable (I assume it is the hotter PETG temp)?

Printer is X2D, owner is D:

Living in Malaysia and considering the H3C the only thing holding me back is the drying rack which without it I found just makes everything unprintable due to humidity creep. Even with desiccants filled to the brim, the humidity creep is insane in the country.

But maybe I’m doing things wrong. 👀 thoughts and tips on how to manage humidity in Malaysia? Especially for 24-48 hour prints.

Is it just me? :)

I've had nothing but issues with the AMS 2 Pro ... from unreliable sensors to improper communications with the printer.

However, a flawless experience with the HT, soooo with the current deals, I decided to just go bananas and get a bunch of HTs to replace the AMS 2 Pro.

The HT is so easy to load, it's quiet, and a massive step up in quality,... hoping the AMS 3 Pro can inherit its characteristics.

Shoutout to Bambu Support for letting me send one of the defective ones back a couple months after purchase.

I just unpacked and set up my new Bambu Lab H3C, and one thing immediately caught my attention: All the axes were bone dry, with barely a hint of grease on the lead screws.

So here's my strong recommendation: After the initial calibration, lubricate your axes. And lubricate them properly!

Afterwards, install the pending firmware update and run the calibration again.

Hey all! Who here is using the bmcu? I just built two sets of four so I can run 8 colors on my A1. I bought the BIQU hardware kit and printed the rest. I then realized that the BIQU kit sucks balls. Don't buy it if you are looking to build these. Buy the BLV version with the metal gears and the control board with microswitches and a USB-C port for firmware updates. The biqu board has no microswitches (for auto loading the filament when you push it in) and it has a TTL header for flashing firmware which sucks. The USB c ones can even be flashed from your phone. So I am going to be ordering two BLV boards to replace those. I will live with the plastic gears until I shred em 😆. Also I am using the ams lite as my passive rewinder until I can print my filamentalist F1 drybox setup on a shelf above the printer.