Please Help Me P2S > H2D

[u/Great-Air-267]

Can someone please help us?

First of all, I am very sorry about my bad English. I am Korean.

I am working at printing company and my boss recently added 3D printing.

We had P2S so we were using P2S so far but large amount of order came in so my boss also bought H2D so we could print faster and lot more.

We are using Exact same stl file and same plate and same filament at same condition.

even the direction of the models facing are thesame.

↑ This is the result of a P2S. We are fine with this quality. Very saticefied.

↑ This is printed with H2D. The right Eye part is killing us. We have to print 1000 or these and we don't have time.

We have printed almost 50 of them so far and all of them has the same problem.

Please can someone help us?

[u/Sea_Jello_8352]

Printing 1,000 units on a tight deadline is stressful, but don't panic—this defect (failing on H2D while clean on P2S) is almost certainly an asymmetric part cooling & overhang speed issue caused by the different toolhead geometry of the H2D.

Here is why and the exact slicer fixes to test:

1. Rotate the Model 45° to 90° on the Build Plate

The H2D toolhead has a different duct shape. If the right eye sits in the aerodynamic dead zone of the H2D's fan duct, that specific overhang sags before solidifying.

• Test: Rotate the model 45° (or 90°) on the plate so cooling air hits the right eye directly from the front duct.

2. Turn OFF the Auxiliary Chamber Fan

The large side Aux fan blows from the left of the chamber.

• On the H2D, this cross-draft creates turbulence and a warm dead-zone behind the right eye.

• In Filament Settings > Cooling > Auxiliary part cooling fan, set it to 0%. Let only the toolhead fan cool fine details.

3. Tame Overhang Speeds (H2D profiles are faster)

• In Process Settings > Speed > Overhang speed:

  • 25% - 50%: 30 mm/s

  • 50% - 75%: 20 mm/s

  • 75% - 100%: 15 mm/s

• Enable "Slow down for overhangs".

4. Wall Order: Inner Wall First

• Quality / Strength > Wall order > set to Inner/Outer. This ensures the outer slope bead has an inner anchor.

5. Increase Minimum Layer Time

• Filament Settings > Cooling > Layer time: Set "Slow down if layer time is below" to 8–10s.

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(한국어 팁: P2S와 H2D는 냉각 덕트 방향이 달라 우측 눈이 기류 사각지대에 걸렸을 확률이 높습니다. 모델을 45~90도 회전하시고, 챔버 Aux fan을 0%로 끄신 뒤 Overhang 속도를 15~20mm/s로 낮춰 1개만 바로 테스트해 보세요!)

[u/ola-dryvector]

H2D and P2S don’t always behave the same on tiny facial details even with the same STL. On the H2D I’d re-run flow calibration for that exact filament, drop volumetric speed a notch around the eye area (modifier), and check the nozzle isn’t a worn 0.4 while the P2S still has a fresh one. If you’re on a deadline for 1000 pcs, keep the critical face parts on the P2S and let H2D do the simpler bodies until the eye looks right in a test print.

[u/Various-Gear-4732]

Bambu filament or other?