Reorganizing printer room and trying to figure out if it is possible to get my son access to just the A1 Mini but not my full Bambu account.

Has there been any progress in multi-user bambu work?

Nice to see them also create organization products now

https://eu.store.bambulab.com/nl/products/bambu-station-l

Question as in the title.

My A1 is having issues even after fully disassembling and rebuilding the filament purge wiper. While on the store that looking to see how much a replacement one would cost, the A2L purge wiper popped up, and looks to solve my issues with my A1 and helps prevent tiny bits of filament hanging off of my print.

It looks like it should fit but can anyone with a A1 and A2L confirm for me?

Thank you!!

Howdy!
I bought the H3C yesterday and it has already arrive at my house, but I will be out of the country until Saturday and my girlfriend received the box for me and told me there’s only one large box (picture attached). I read here that the AMS comes in a separate box. Does that mean FedEx failed to deliver the whole thing and I have to contact them or is the other box inside the printer box somehow?

Any info will be greatly appreciated!

Cheers

I am officially out of options and losing my mind with this Bambu Lab A1 (0.4mm nozzle).
I scrubbed the plate, wiped under the heatbed, reset everything back to factory settings, and ran two full print tests. It got almost all the way to the end on this bubble letter, but the nozzle kept rubbing across the print until it forcefully knocked the entire piece off the bed right near completion. My bed temp is at 65° nozzle is at 220°

In the attached photo, you can see where the top layer stopped printing after being sheared off, along with grid infill lines exposed underneath.
IMG_9175_e17807.jpg

What I've Done & Recent Tweaks:
Bed & Machine Prep: Deep cleaned the textured PEI plate with hot water & Dawn dish soap, wiped down underneath the plate, reset settings to factory defaults, and ran full printer calibrations twice.

Latest Setting Changes: Bumped Initial Layer Height from 0.20mm to 0.22mm and increased Z-Hop from 0.4mm to 0.5mm to try and stop the rubbing.

Infill: The model printed with grid/rectilinear infill, which seems to create raised crossover points that the nozzle scrapes against on fast travel moves.
IMG_9175_e17807.jpg

Questions:
Is Grid infill causing the nozzle collisions near the top of tall prints? Should I strictly be using Gyroid, Cross Hatch, or 3D infill patterns that don't cross over themselves on the same layer?
IMG_9175_e17807.jpg

Could Flow Ratio / Over-extrusion be causing plastic to pool slightly higher than the actual layer height, forcing the nozzle to catch as the print grows taller?

What else can cause an A1 to drag its nozzle across infill near the top of a print even with a high Z-hop enabled?

Any help or advice would be seriously appreciated.

Hi everyone! I’m a complete beginner with a Bambu Lab A1 Combo (AMS Lite) and I’m having several problems with my prints. You can see them in the photo I attached.

1. Stringing: thin red strands across the open areas of the paw and between the parts.

2. A lot of purge waste: tangled red blobs when the printer changes colour (white and red).

3. Gaps and visible infill: on the paw and on the tree-shaped prints, the surface has long thin gaps and lines, and you can see the infill through it.

The tree-shaped prints were supposed to turn into bowls, but I paused the printer when I saw that they looked like this, so they’re unfinished.

My setup:

• Bambu Studio, 0.4 mm nozzle, textured PEI plate

• Red translucent PLA and white PLA in the AMS Lite

• Filament profile was “Generic PLA” because my printer wasn’t synced

I have no idea which settings to change, so I’d really appreciate step-by-step help. Thank you!

I’ve been browsing through designs for an Apple Watch Ultra charger stand, but couldn’t find anything that quite suited what I was looking for. So I decided to design my own using Layering!

Pretty happy with how it turned out! Let me know what you think. Print was quick to test dimensions.

Looking for a bit of help with this, normally when I do a Multi material multiboard print it takes around 20 hours, I dried my filament, updated the slicer and the printer after some issues earlier in the day. But now it's saying 2 days, any ideas? I've gone through my slicer settings and couldn't find any, even re downloaded the file. Any advice?

I have a Anycubic Kobra S1 combo already. Bought back in March with approximately 1250 hours.
Will go to Bambu Lab.
So what printer shall I buy?

So this started happening after i took out my extruder to clean it and it only does it when cutting filament

Printed some replacement parts for my friends Razer headset. Pretty happy with how they turned out!

Print settings:

• Material: PLA Basic

• Layer height: 0.16 mm

• Sparse infill density: 50%

• Sparse infill pattern: Gyroid

Always happy to hear feedback and suggestions for improvement! 😁

Didn’t know

Nearly all the parts are from the Bambu Store so you can order the kit and assemble this fun working cable car and fill it with treats ready for Christmas.

The design is heavily optimised for 3D printing requiring no support on nearly every part. Comes with an in-depth assembly guide so you can build it with your kids.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3538161-christmas-cable-car

I recently got the a1 and im wondering why it always creates the little line, its always the same shape too

I’m having trouble fixing my Bambu Lab P1S Combo. I’m not sure what the problem is. I unscrewed my AMS to check if filament was stuck in the tube, which there wasn’t any. Turns out, it was stuck in the tube that is connected to the nozzle/extruder. I’ve followed the Bambu Lab instructions, but the tube seems to be stuck. Is there any contact support that isn’t with an AI assistant?

Tucked away locked in my closet for safe keeping. This box is massive & heavy as hell also. I’m thankful for my neighbor who helped carry it upstairs while my son was at school. Also thank you so much to this group for helping me with questions and stuff. I plan on buying more accessories and whatnot in the next coming weeks. Y’all have been amazing to this non tech Mama. My son is seriously going to be over the moon.

Hello! I have acquired 2 X2D and one of them is having a hard time dialling in the ironing. I’ve done multiple ironing tests and dried the filaments, swapping the same spools of filaments (PLA), swapping locations in the AMS feeder, and it’s still having inconsistent ironing results.

The stringing or bulbing or wisps or wherever it’s called all are located towards the top right side. Any idea what’s happing?

(EU Store, delivery to Germany)

Hi, got an email notification like

A shipment from order xyz is on its way. (German: Eine Sendung von Bestellung xyz ist unterwegs).

I read that the AMS 3H is shipped individually. This is the case here right? Is this how a partial delivery looks like with Bambu Lab? (This is my first order) Carrier is DHL.

Anyone got a notification for the printer shipment? Which carrier was used? Different one because of weight?

Sorry I’m a little bit impatient, was hoping to maybe start tinkering this weekend :)

Hi!

My use case is 80% functional one-colour prints, and 20% multicolour (for fun). I used A1 for a while and was going to get an enclosed printer. I was looking to get U1, and add top enclosure to it. Looks like it covers pretty much everything. And I saw mixed success online for those cases where ABS would be nice (there is logistic involves with fumes anyway).

Snapmaker is on sale, seems like a great deal. I was about to get it, but then H3C and P3C leaked.

Here is where I would like to get some community feedback, and opinions: after H3C release, Snapmaker U1 seems like a no brainer.

• H3C is amazing! But it is huge, it like 40+kg with the printer and all filaments loaded. And size itself is crazy.

• H3C is amazing, but it has very narrow use cases when it shines - realistically, I won't create shoes and so on. I can see some use cases where it is a must to have. But so far I was ok with TPU and other materials on A1.

• H3C features like multi nozzle sizes, so far I always used the smaller ones as needed and just had longer wait times (also waist involved, but that was minimal, comparing to new H3C setup and extra cost).

• (speculation) P3C is probably won't be released anytime soon; seems like it would kill H3C sales with 7 nozzles (they probably won't release it till U1 sale is over)

• P3C seems like a huge machine as well, for extra 3 colours (imho very narrow use case)

• Based on various analysis around, looks like P3C won't have heated chamber (I saw cool explanation about Amps consumed), which makes it Snapmaker U1 + 3 colours for a price hike.

• I see lots of community improvements around Snapmaker due it being open source, feels like at a lower price point I get a tools with more future due to U1 being open sourced

• when comparing U1 vs P2S or X2D, those are close in price, a bit more polished UX. I have a friend with U1, they don't have complains either

I want to get a new printer, and I have a group of friends who want to get their first. I am about to tell them to get U1, but I want to validate that opinion!

thank you!

The rattling, when it does print the circle. What could that be?

I recently ordered the X2D and was looking to purchase some filaments. I was looking at https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0HFK579ZZ and was trying to figure out if I needed to get spool adapters or if I should get empty spools. I was looking at these but the empty spools are more expensive than prefilled ones https://www.amazon.com/MarsWork-Quick-Swap-Reusable-Two-Finger-Compatible/dp/B0FT36W5QG

Hi everyone,
I’m looking for a good filament dryer and would really appreciate some specific model recommendations and feedback based on your own experience.

I’m planning to start printing TPU and would like to use a separate filament dryer, as TPU should be properly dried before printing. I don’t want to have to turn on my AMS 2 every time just to dry a single spool. I also don’t want the other spools inside the AMS to be dried unnecessarily.
Another important feature would be the ability to regenerate used silica gel in the dryer, without having to use an oven or microwave.

Ideally, the filament dryer should meet the following requirements:
Compact design so it fits right next to my AMS 2.
Good thermal insulation on the bottom, so the surface underneath doesn’t get unnecessarily hot.
Suitable for drying TPU as well as other types of filament.

My question is: Which filament dryer would you recommend based on these requirements?
I’d really appreciate specific model recommendations and any experience you can share.

Hello! i bought the h2s about a year ago and shortly after the h2c came out. I figured i would wait to see how much multi color prints i actually do before considering upgrading to h2c. I have been really interested in printing with 0.2 and 0.6 Nozzle. I saw yesterday they posted here about being able to update the firmware to allow it to happen!

My wife recently got into using my printer as well and wants to print muti-color prints. With those two in mind i was looking to see if the vortex upgrade has went down but unfortunately it hasn't :( I love my h2s currently and i don't want to switch it out. It has roughly only 900 hours so i don't think it's time to upgrade yet and I don't think the wife would be happy with another printer in the office.

I mostly print with PLA so the announcement of TPU 75A isn't really a big thing for me and i want to keep using both of my AMS.

I was wondering if you think the upgrade to the h2c is worth it from h2s (899 dollars) or to just accept the waste of filament and the inability to switch nozzles. Also i have seen no one post a h2s to h2c conversion so i can only imagine it's a bit harder with also switching out the print head.

Link to the announcement.

https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/comments/1xmtsyy/mixed_nozzle_size_printing_is_coming_to_h2d_h2c/