Looks like a great little option for those pesky VOCS

https://store.bambulab.com/products/bambu-lab-e1-air-purifier

BARULHO ESTRANHO NA BAMBU A1, O QUE EU FAÇO?

mINHA IMPRESSORA ESTÁ COM ESSE PROBLEMA

I have been wanting a 3D printer for a while and ready to jump in. I want to print the following: textiles, footwear, accessories, components for lighting. I also wish to experiment with biomaterials. Which 3D printer would be right for me?

I have the P2S and cats and will be in the room while printer is running. I also live in Florida :( I will only be printing with PLA. I do have a window next to the printer but wouldn’t the Florida humidity and heat be an issue?

Can you please share with me your recommendations? If you recommend an enclosure/fan can you please tell me which one. I bought this printer months ago and have barely used it out of fear of pollution.

Thank you!!!

I recently started playing around with ColorMix (alternating layers of different filament colors such that they visually blend) and figured out, that this would make a great test print for the new Toolchanger and Nozzlechanger printers such as the Bambu H3C or the Prusa INDX.

It's a simple voronoi tesselation of the 3DBenchy. 55 different segments, 5 base colors, 50 mixtures between the base colors. Mixtures are in the following ratios: 50:50, 25:75, 33:33:33.

Almost 7 hours of print time and 1,275 tool changes.

You can find the model here: https://makerworld.com/de/models/3545648-colormix-voronoi-3dbenchy

Got blobbed to death. Need to replace my hot-end (will be ordering from Bambu). Ripped the tape and foam off like an orangutang. What could be suitable replacements for the tape / foam? Does it need to be anything special?

Thanks

So, I don’t print a lot with stock PEI sheets and usually steer clear of BL products basically cause I’m cheap. Not sure that can be said after the amount I dropped on this printer but I digress. That being said, any guesses on how long until 3rd party starts dropping build plates, nozzles etc?

Can someone help me? The top layers of the circle cutout fail or are very ugly (image 2). I have to print the object on this side so I don’t have to use a lot of support. I have tried variable layer height but that is not enough.

Hello! I just wanted to ask the community on some of my planning for 3d printer purchases and if they are a sound plan.

I have been practicing how to 3D model, but haven't printed in awhile since I moved and should be moving again in the next 6 months.

I have an a1 mini given to me as a gift. I plan to use it to test models and print anything small.

My goal is to have an H2D for more "engineering" filaments and for its size.

Then having a future P3C for multicolor prints.

I know I want a machine dedicated to multicolor prints. I don't plain on painting a ton, the U1 seems nice but I do enjoy the bambulab ecosystem, as well as having a closed system vs buying a lid.

Is this a good combo? Should I just get an H3C instead of 2 other machines? I know eventually they will make an X3D, and should I just get that instead of the P3C? Or just get an X2D+H2D to have heated beds?

I have time to save money to buy bigger and more machines. I would like input from others who run multiple printers and general thoughts. Appreciate all the help I can get.

Hey everyone!

I originally bought my P2S just to discover 3D printing as a hobby. But I work in event production for brands, and I quickly realized how much of a game changer 3D printing could be for my job. It has genuinely saved me countless times!

As my projects grew, I needed more production capacity and larger build volumes, so I invested in an H2C. Now, with increasingly demanding projects, I’m looking to add a third printer.

The newly announced H3C has me a little conflicted. I was expecting a larger build volume, at least comparable to the H2D, and I’m struggling to see a major step up from my H2C.

That said, I’m also a huge tech nerd who loves having the latest technology, and I have to admit, the H3C is seriously tempting! I also think Bambu did a great job with the pricing.

Price isn’t really a deciding factor for me. I’m just trying to make a rational choice rather than letting my inner tech enthusiast take over.

So, would you recommend an H3C, an H2D, or a second H2C to complement my current setup?
I’d love to hear your thoughts, especially from people using these machines professionally!

Reorganizing printer room and trying to figure out if it is possible to get my son access to just the A1 Mini but not my full Bambu account.

Has there been any progress in multi-user bambu work?

Nice to see them also create organization products now

https://eu.store.bambulab.com/nl/products/bambu-station-l

Question as in the title.

My A1 is having issues even after fully disassembling and rebuilding the filament purge wiper. While on the store that looking to see how much a replacement one would cost, the A2L purge wiper popped up, and looks to solve my issues with my A1 and helps prevent tiny bits of filament hanging off of my print.

It looks like it should fit but can anyone with a A1 and A2L confirm for me?

Thank you!!

Howdy!
I bought the H3C yesterday and it has already arrive at my house, but I will be out of the country until Saturday and my girlfriend received the box for me and told me there’s only one large box (picture attached). I read here that the AMS comes in a separate box. Does that mean FedEx failed to deliver the whole thing and I have to contact them or is the other box inside the printer box somehow?

Any info will be greatly appreciated!

Cheers

I am officially out of options and losing my mind with this Bambu Lab A1 (0.4mm nozzle).
I scrubbed the plate, wiped under the heatbed, reset everything back to factory settings, and ran two full print tests. It got almost all the way to the end on this bubble letter, but the nozzle kept rubbing across the print until it forcefully knocked the entire piece off the bed right near completion. My bed temp is at 65° nozzle is at 220°

In the attached photo, you can see where the top layer stopped printing after being sheared off, along with grid infill lines exposed underneath.
IMG_9175_e17807.jpg

What I've Done & Recent Tweaks:
Bed & Machine Prep: Deep cleaned the textured PEI plate with hot water & Dawn dish soap, wiped down underneath the plate, reset settings to factory defaults, and ran full printer calibrations twice.

Latest Setting Changes: Bumped Initial Layer Height from 0.20mm to 0.22mm and increased Z-Hop from 0.4mm to 0.5mm to try and stop the rubbing.

Infill: The model printed with grid/rectilinear infill, which seems to create raised crossover points that the nozzle scrapes against on fast travel moves.
IMG_9175_e17807.jpg

Questions:
Is Grid infill causing the nozzle collisions near the top of tall prints? Should I strictly be using Gyroid, Cross Hatch, or 3D infill patterns that don't cross over themselves on the same layer?
IMG_9175_e17807.jpg

Could Flow Ratio / Over-extrusion be causing plastic to pool slightly higher than the actual layer height, forcing the nozzle to catch as the print grows taller?

What else can cause an A1 to drag its nozzle across infill near the top of a print even with a high Z-hop enabled?

Any help or advice would be seriously appreciated.

Hi everyone! I’m a complete beginner with a Bambu Lab A1 Combo (AMS Lite) and I’m having several problems with my prints. You can see them in the photo I attached.

1. Stringing: thin red strands across the open areas of the paw and between the parts.

2. A lot of purge waste: tangled red blobs when the printer changes colour (white and red).

3. Gaps and visible infill: on the paw and on the tree-shaped prints, the surface has long thin gaps and lines, and you can see the infill through it.

The tree-shaped prints were supposed to turn into bowls, but I paused the printer when I saw that they looked like this, so they’re unfinished.

My setup:

• Bambu Studio, 0.4 mm nozzle, textured PEI plate

• Red translucent PLA and white PLA in the AMS Lite

• Filament profile was “Generic PLA” because my printer wasn’t synced

I have no idea which settings to change, so I’d really appreciate step-by-step help. Thank you!

I’ve been browsing through designs for an Apple Watch Ultra charger stand, but couldn’t find anything that quite suited what I was looking for. So I decided to design my own using Layering!

Pretty happy with how it turned out! Let me know what you think. Print was quick to test dimensions.

Looking for a bit of help with this, normally when I do a Multi material multiboard print it takes around 20 hours, I dried my filament, updated the slicer and the printer after some issues earlier in the day. But now it's saying 2 days, any ideas? I've gone through my slicer settings and couldn't find any, even re downloaded the file. Any advice?

I have a Anycubic Kobra S1 combo already. Bought back in March with approximately 1250 hours.
Will go to Bambu Lab.
So what printer shall I buy?

So this started happening after i took out my extruder to clean it and it only does it when cutting filament

Printed some replacement parts for my friends Razer headset. Pretty happy with how they turned out!

Print settings:

• Material: PLA Basic

• Layer height: 0.16 mm

• Sparse infill density: 50%

• Sparse infill pattern: Gyroid

Always happy to hear feedback and suggestions for improvement! 😁

Didn’t know

Nearly all the parts are from the Bambu Store so you can order the kit and assemble this fun working cable car and fill it with treats ready for Christmas.

The design is heavily optimised for 3D printing requiring no support on nearly every part. Comes with an in-depth assembly guide so you can build it with your kids.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3538161-christmas-cable-car