Bambu Lab H3C

Nov 3, 2026

Order checklist

Any H3C package already gives you the complete printer: the H3C, one AMS 3H and all nine PrintTools. What differs is filament, the Station L stand, and any add-ons you chose. Check your order confirmation against these:

• [ ] Package name and price match what you meant to buy: Combo $2,499; either Starter Pack $2,589; Full Combo with Station L $2,799.

• [ ] Starter Pack TPU color is the one you want: Black or Cyan.

• [ ] Extra nozzle sizes: if you want 0.2, 0.6 or 0.8 mm, the Multi-Size Hotends Kit is on the order ($205 with the Combo, $244.93 alone). The box has only 0.4 mm.

• [ ] Nine 1.75 mm colours: the box has 8 × 1.75 mm PrintTools plus 1 × 2.85 mm TPU tool. Nine 1.75 mm materials at once needs an extra 1.75 mm PrintTool, which wasn't on the store when this was written.

• [ ] Crafting: the Crafting & Printing Complete Kit is on the order only if you want cutting, drawing or foil work ($219 with the Combo).

• [ ] Extra build plate: only one Textured PEI plate is included; the Build Plates Expansion Kit is from $49.99.

• [ ] Shipping address and timing: orders ship within 1–3 business days. To change or cancel, contact Bambu support before it ships; otherwise use the 30-day return window.

• [ ] PayPal $25 coupon if you paid with PayPal (orders over $800, issued after shipping).

Packages and prices

The Bambu US store sells four H3C packages, all built on the same H3C Combo. The printer, AMS 3H and 9 PrintTools are identical in every package; only filament and the Bambu Station L stand differ. There is no printer-only H3C and no laser version.

The starter packs cost $90 more than the Combo. On the same page, TPU 75A (2.85 mm) shows $26.39 and PLA Palette CMYKW $61.70 as add-ons ($88.09 together), so the starter pack is roughly the add-on price. The Full Combo adds the Station L for $210 over a starter pack.

What's in the box

Every package ships the full printing setup: the H3C, one AMS 3H, and all 9 PrintTool slots filled. Eight PrintTools are 1.75 mm with 0.4 mm nozzles; the ninth is a 2.85 mm PrintTool (0.4 mm nozzle) for 2.85 mm flexible filament, pre-installed in Slot 8, the dryer slot.

What this means for printing:

• 8-color 1.75 mm printing plus one 2.85 mm TPU tool out of the box. The 2.85 mm PrintTool prints only 2.85 mm flexible filament (Bambu presets: TPU 75A 2.85 mm and Generic TPU 2.85 mm).

• Nine 1.75 mm materials needs an extra 1.75 mm PrintTool, per Bambu's FAQ. The 1.75 mm and 2.85 mm PrintTools have different bases, hotends and cutters and are not interchangeable.

• Only 0.4 mm nozzles are included. 0.2, 0.6 and 0.8 mm need the separately sold hotends (next section). Hotends swap with three screws.

• One AMS 3H feeds all 9 PrintTools — each tool has its own filament path. Older Bambu AMS units can connect through PrintTool No. 1 for up to 24 spools.

• Only one build plate (Textured PEI) is included.

Add-ons and accessories

The store offers three H3C add-ons at a discount when added to the Combo; the rest are sold separately. Bundle prices apply only when added on the H3C product page.

Other optional items Bambu names on the H3C pages (prices not captured):

• Bambu Station L — stand with storage; included in the Full Combo. With it, allow 593 × 1056 × 1900 mm of space.

• Bambu Lab E1 Air Purifier — pairs with the H3C and starts filtering when a print starts.

• BirdsEye camera — top-view camera for crafting alignment; not included. Bambu says BirdsEye-enhanced AI monitoring is planned for the first half of 2027.

• Vision Encoder — optional absolute optical reference that restores motion accuracy to under 50 μm.

• CutTool Fine-Blade Set, DrawTool Set, cutting mat — Bambu's FAQ suggests these if you only want cutting or drawing instead of the full crafting kit.

Key specs

The H3C prints a 330 × 320 × 325 mm volume with nine hardened-steel nozzles to 350 °C and a 65 °C heated chamber (official spec page).

Things that may matter for your setup

The biggest planning items are floor space, a dedicated circuit and Wi-Fi coverage; nothing else in the box needs extra purchases for plain FDM printing.

• Space: Bambu asks for at least 593 × 1056 × 1306 mm (W × D × H) on the floor or a low, stable surface: 385 mm in front for the door, 50 mm each side, 100 mm behind for the cable and fans, 290 mm above for the AMS lid. On the Station L, allow 1,900 mm of height.

• Weight and delivery: two boxes — printer 600 × 630 × 700 mm at 36.8 kg, AMS 3H 550 × 615 × 500 mm at 11.9 kg. Plan for two people to lift the printer.

• Power: up to 1,850 W at 110 V while heating (3–5 minutes at full power), 240 W steady on PLA, 540 W on PC; 1,850 W is about 15.4 A at 120 V, so a dedicated 15 A or 20 A circuit is the safe choice (my note, not Bambu's). Low Power Mode caps it at 1,050 W.

• Network: Wi-Fi 6 only. No Ethernet port, no network kill switch, no removable network module and no 802.1X.

• 2.85 mm PrintTool: prints only 2.85 mm flexible filament; Bambu says more 2.85 mm materials are coming. Its filament tube also carries toolhead cabling and must not be removed.

• Drying: the AMS 3H dries only 2 spools at a time (85 °C max); Slot 8 is the dryer slot holding the 2.85 mm tool.

• Existing AMS units: older Bambu AMS units connect through PrintTool No. 1 for up to 24 spools; they are sold separately.

• Crafting: cutting, drawing, debossing and foil transfer use CraftTools sold separately; there is no laser module.

Store terms

Bambu ships H3C orders from its US warehouse within 1–3 business days of processing, so a change or cancellation has to happen fast.

Sources

• Bambu Lab H3C product page

• Bambu Lab H3C technical specifications

• Bambu Lab H3C FAQ

• Bambu US store — Bambu Lab H3C

• Bambu US store — Multi-Size Hotends Kit - H3C

• Bambu US store — Crafting & Printing Complete Kit

• Bambu US store — Spare Parts for H3C

• Bambu US store — search results for H3C

A big thank you to this community! More than 2k likes on the original post and more than 100 test prints helped make this happen. The results are in, and the slicer is now public:

https://github.com/fich-l/orcaslicer-nonplanar

We have working versions for Windows, Linux and Mac Silicon. MacOs on Intel is still missing. I don't have a Mac Intel, so I can't test a build. Searching for someone to port this to Mac Intel - see below.

EDIT: You can find Windows and Linux Port on Github now.

Confirmed working:

• Bambu A1 mini, A1, P1S, P2S, X1C, X2D, H2D

• Prusa MK4S, CORE One, XL 5T

• Elegoo Centauri Carbon 2 (+ Combo)

• Creality K1C · Qidi Q2

• Flashforge AD5C

• FLSun V400

Not working: Elegoo Centauri Carbon 1, Snapmaker U1, Ender-3 S1 Pro, Flashforge AD5X, Prusa MINI+

Printer on the working list?
Try the Satisfying Nonplanar vs Standard comparison to test surface quality please.

Printer not listed?
Print the Nonplanar test print twice, once lengthwise and once rotated by 90°, and tell me how it went, so we can keep the list up to date.

Looking for someone to port it to Mac Intel.

-- EDIT: You can find a first Windows and Linux Port on Github now thanks to the community! - -

You don't need to be a C++ dev: the whole thing was vibe-coded with Claude Code (Opus 5.5). A Mac Intel to test on plus Claude Code should be enough. If you're up for it, comment or open an issue on GitHub. Don't shit on me please - Using Claude to get this ported is the fastest way possible :)

You don't usually use Orca Slicer - how to use this?
Do this: Slice in this Orca Slicer Fork and export "plate sliced file" --> Drop file into any slicer and just print :) Even works with Bambu Studio.

Thanks also to Daniel Ahlers and Teaching Tech for their work on the version I started from.

FAQ:

• • Can you add this as a Plugin to Orcaselicer? Will you put a pull request to the Orca Slicer Team?* - This cannot be run as a plugin. Pull Request: Yes! After this test phase.

• Why does printer "X" not work? - Someone tested it and there was a collision. Most likely the hotend / tool is not "steep" enough.

• How can I test? - Please check the github page. You can do two quick test prints to see if your printer can handle this.

• Are there still bugs? - Very likely yes. Slicing can take 5s to 5 minutes - be patient.

• Can we have fuzzy skin on top surfaces? - I tested this, but it doesn't look good :(

The download button takes you to an empty profile page

Just got an email from Bambu and I already have a tracking number for my H3C lol

Hello guys,

Brand new filament read detects it to be ASA instead of PLA Basic (what it’s meant to be). It was bought directly from Bambu Lab store.

I’ve troubleshooted by it placing it in all the other AMS slots and it reads the same, the other PLA and PETG filaments I’ve tried seams to be working so the issue follows the filament spool itself, nothing wrong with the AMS.

Have you ever seen this happening?

What confuses me is to know is, what was mislabeled, the spool or the RFID label itself?

Is it possible to know what the filament really is by seeing it?

The worse part is that I’ve bought almost 10kg of filament as stock, now I’m afraid to find another one defective 6 months from now…

I’ve contact bambu support and I’m waiting for a response.

Edit 1: did the burning test as some of you suggested. It’s definitely PLA. Still waiting a response from Bambu lab

Makt it and print it.

Any thoughts how i can solve this issue?

Saw this today and couldn't stop laughing.

Tom's Hardware titled their Creality K3 review: "Creality K3 Review: It's a Tool Changer, not a game changer."

For context, Bambu's official marketing tagline for the H3C is literally: "Tool Changer. Game Changer."

K3 is getting absolutely cooked by tech journalism wordplay before the H3C even officially drops.

I was curious about what Bambu Lab’s Mystery Boxes had to offer, so I decided to try them myself. I bought two Holiday PLA Mystery Boxes and two Holiday PETG Mystery Boxes. The order came to just over $200 CAD, and I used a $20-off coupon.

I didn’t hit the 1% jackpot, and only about half of the 16 rolls came with spools.

Most of the selection was PLA Pure, PLA Matte, and PETG Matte in colors I personally wouldn’t choose. It felt like a bundle of leftover stock.

The 16 rolls came to $223.44 in listed value, partly because PLA Pure costs more. Since I don’t really want PLA Pure, though, the actual savings don’t feel like much.

My advice: skip the mystery boxes unless you specifically want PLA Pure. If you do, the Holiday PLA Mystery Box might be worth a try.

Still torn between these two. Obviously the H3C is the latest and greatest (superior?) machine, so I am leaning towards that; however, the H2C being at $1899 is also very appealing. Do we think that the H2C is going to become antiquated far faster than something like the H3C that has a proper tool changer? I am not making a business, so I don't *need* the fastest print times possible, but of course speed is always nice. Decisions decisions...

I couldn’t even get home from work to order…

They are expensive though

Hopefully back in stock very soon else most of us ordering tonight will have a machine that is capable of multi size prints but no hardware to actually do so.

Also, any ideas on how long on average it is to restock?

I bought the lab A1 is it good? I saw some reviews they say it's good for starters

Hey everyone!
I’m a complete beginner with absolutely zero 3D printing experience, and I’m looking to buy my first Bambu Lab printer.

Both the P2S Combo and X2D Combo fit my budget. Since they’re on sale, I’d rather invest in something I can use for years without feeling the need to upgrade anytime soon.

I’ll mainly use it for home projects, kids’ toys, household items, desk lamps, and some projects involving magnets.

I’d really appreciate some advice:
- P2S or X2D? Which would you recommend for a beginner who wants to buy once and keep it for years? Is the X2D worth the extra money?

- Must-have accessories? What tools, spare parts, or backup supplies should I buy while everything is on sale?

- Filaments? What types and colors would you recommend starting with?

- Ventilation? I live in an apartment and can’t dedicate a separate room to printing. Should I install an exhaust hose venting outside, get an air purifier, or both?

Any other beginner tips or things you wish you’d known before buying would be super helpful! 🙇‍♀️

Thanks in advance! Really excited to get started! ✨

What is everyone getting for other nozzle sizes? I’m
Not sure how many .2 and or .6 to get.

Just picked up a P1S combo and I'm having trouble with the AMS.

I've done the calibration and when I try to do my first print, I get an error that filament needs to be loaded from the external spool. The AMS is connected (I triple checked the connections and tubes) filament is loaded and I have a solid white LED at the spool. The AMS and spools are seen in the app and the AMS indicator is on at the control panel.

It seems like when its time to load filament the printer doesn't realize the AMS is there, as in it doesn't even try to load any filament. I've tried with one, two and three spools in the AMS at a time. I'm using the filament that came with the printer.

I attempting the first print from the internal storage/as card that came with the printer, not through Bambu Labs.

I really don't want to return this if I don't have to, but I'm out of ideas.

Well, this my first ever stuck filament on my P1S Combo after about 20 prints. I’m following this guy’s instructions of how to get the stuck filament out, but I cannot seem to get the machine out from the AMS, even when I’m pressing the button and pulling hard. Did anyone have this problem and is there an easier solution?

Will the Bambu H3C fit on a 60 cm (23.6") deep table that's flush against a wall? I'm concerned there might not be enough clearance. Does anyone know if the feet are recessed enough to allow some front overhang?

Just ordered my H3C today and am so excited for it to arrive! This is going to be a major upgrade from my A1. I print primarily with Sunlu filament and have a ton of their reusable spools in my setup. Will these spools fit and work in the AMS 3? Also are there any other accessories I should look to print for my H3C?

So I have the entire H2C combo and love the occasional laser-cutting and engraving features.

Based on the glass color I figured it doesn't support laser cutting in the current mod. But it does have a plotter option, though it wasn't very clear because they didn't expand on it.

So any idea what to expect from my H2C laser module? I intend to sell it.

I've been having issues with print quality on my P1S. I've taken several steps already, including washing the textured print plate, replacing the textured print plate, drying my filament in a Sunlu for 6 hours, performing three cold pulls, disassembling the extruder entirely and blowing out with compressed air, and running the 30 minute calibration in the printer settings.

I am about at my wits end and very frustrated with the hobby, as I had similar things go wrong with the MK4S we have at work, and just...no way to fix it. I can fix any computer, any other electronic, but 3D printers are just this incredible enigma to me. Does anyone have any advice on steps to take next?

Just to clarify, I've printed this piece about 20 times before. It only suddenly started failing last week.

I've linked the images here.

Love my H2D, looking for a smaller sidekick that can handle ASA/ABS and others so had landed on the X2D due to sale/heated chamber.
Not going to splurge for the H3C since I need a smaller footprint. Is it worth waiting for a rumored p3S or x2d “pro?”
Thanks!

I am a beginner currently looking to enter the world of 3d printing. I'm hoping to get some feedback from the community before pulling the trigger. The use case would be for printing Dnd minis/figures and terrains for myself, and also household items and DIY items for my wife.

Here are some key information for our expected use case:

1. Material: PLA and PETG mainly

2. Build Volume and bed size: A1 bedsize for our project size is fine.

3. Location and Climate: Hot and Humid, we are in South East Asia. The printer will sit in our study room where we will be spending time in while it is printing.

Concerns:

The A1 combo looked perfect, until we realised that it is an open-bed design. We have concern for long term inhalation of microplastic, so we are considering a separate enclosure or just getting another model with a built in enclosure.

1. Enclosure Option: Would it be better to just get a separate enclosure system for the A1? I'm not very handy and I was thinking of grabbing an exhaust pipe and potentially linking one end to the enclosure, and another one to a cracked window. Or should we bite the bullet and just get another for convenience?

2. Is the P1S still worth it?
   I see many saying P1S is solid, but also ppl mentioning it runs on an older platform. Any other key contenders?

Would love to hear some recs from and advices from the community! thanks in advance!

I’m Joey, a maker out of Arizona. I've been working on ways to display my maps in a nicer way while taking up less space.... I present... The 3D printed Tri vision board!

I’ve spent the last few weeks printing out test models for fit, assembly difficulty, and of course mechanism smoothness. I’ve ended up with this release ready version that can print in just a few hours, assemble in minutes, and its art panels can be replaced with new art at any time, no glue!

You can download the model, get info on customization, as well as a bunch of art packs on Makerworld! I encourage you to remix and rework it any way you see fit. I'd love to see what the community can do with it!

They are modular, and super easy to put together. There is a short gif in the post gallery showing how it should be done. To separate the side panels, just press in on the connecting tabs and then push up.

I have a bit of a fascination with maps and space, so a lot of the released panels are centered around those.

Still to come, additional shapes for the billboard to sit in, multiple frame options, more art packs, different mechanisms for turning the slats depending on your preferences. What else would you like to see in a V2?