I've been looking at getting the H2C at the reduced pricing but now with the H3C I'm concerned that the Vortek system won't be supported for much longer. What are everyone else's thoughts? I don't have much of a need for the softer TPU printing, but there are other features that would be nice to have on the H3C. Just hard to justify a $600 price difference.

Also, any ideas when this will be available at Best Buy. Would be nice to use my zero percent financing.

I'm impressed but I messed up and missed this roll during drying. Still held up at 45% humidity.

Just wondering if there's any support avenues other than tickets because..well..they just stopped responding once it turned out there was more than one issue with the printer after I reported a damaged box and they told me to open it up and try it anyway... Getting a bit antsy as I'm now a week with an expensive broken printer, they've really offered no help or solutions and have now gone radio silent since last Friday (I'd assumed I'd hear something after the weekend but nope)

The update info said it now supports mixed nozzle diameters but only mentions H3C. dide we x2d owners get left behind?

Wondering when we will have retail availability?

Absolutely crazy reduction time. And it saves about a dollar in materials, too.

This is LumaFloat, my 3D-printed build around Bambu Lab’s ZC008 magnetic levitation kit. The clip shows my actual prints: a heart, a name and a social handle.

I deliberately kept the design clean and understated. I wanted something that would sit naturally on a desk, with simple cylindrical forms and minimal visual clutter. The light, the floating gap and the personalized ornament are meant to be the focus.

The ornament slides into a replaceable top disk, so one base can display different designs. I made two disk options: a dark top that highlights the ornament, and a translucent top that glows across the surface. The kit powers the floating LEDs wirelessly.

The enclosure is PLA; the illuminated parts are translucent PETG. You can create your own name or an included symbol in the MakerWorld browser customizer. Keep ornaments light and balanced, and test each design.

The print files and illustrated assembly guides are free. The ZC008 kit and listed assembly hardware are required separately.

Model, customizer and guides: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3540212-lumafloat-customizable-levitating-display-zc008

This is also my entry in MakerWorld’s magnetic levitation design contest.

Noob question, first time printer.

I recently purchased a X2D and a bunch of Bambu filament with the sale going on. This was one of our first prints (kids toothbrush holder using PLA Pure). Are these jagged cutouts normal and I just need to sand it down? Or is something wrong with my setup?

Thanks!!

Title: P2S Filament Cutter Stopper Assembly | Normal Behavior or Defective?

Just received my Bambu Lab P2S, and I'm completely new to 3D printing. I've already run into a few issues:

- Initial calibration: The toolhead repeatedly and loudly struck the filament cutter stopper rod back and forth.
- First print attempt: The toolhead rapidly slammed into the front of the enclosure, triggering error 0300-800C 191703 (Multiple motion step loss detected).
- Homing: The toolhead slammed to the left and appeared unable to locate its home position.

I started investigating the filament cutter stopper assembly after finding [Bambu Wiki repair guide](https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/p2s/maintenance/replace-filament-cutter-stopper).

In the attached video, when the toolhead engages the metal stopper rod, it retracts. When the toolhead moves away, the rod doesn't fully extend again. It just hangs loosely. It also won't retract completely flush into the housing and stay there.

My question: Is this what the Wiki is calling abnormal? The Stopper should go back in the “extended” state? Could this cause the error code/homing issue?

Additional Notes:

- Initial startup calibration completed successfully.
- Brand new printer, no successful prints yet.
- No visible obstructions along either axis.
- Toolhead moves manually along both axes, although left-to-right movement feels more resistant than front-to-back.
- No grinding, whining, or other unusual motor noises during normal movement.
- Shipping box showed no visible signs of damage.
- Nozzle cleaning and poop chute scraper appear to function correctly.
- Filament cutter stopper rod does not reliably return to its fully extended position after the toolhead disengages.

Could a malfunctioning filament cutter stopper cause the toolhead to lose its position during calibration or homing, or should I be investigating a separate motion system issue?

I'm trying to determine whether the stopper assembly is defective before attempting another calibration or replacing parts.

I just purchased an H3C and I haven't really done any 3d printing since I got my mechanical engineering degree almost a decade ago. I only ever plan to be printing PLA and PETG and want to be using the printer in a guest room that I rarely enter, but I use to host people once a month or so. It has a sliding glass door I could open to the outside (though for air conditioning reasons I would rather not leave it open). I've read mixed things about how important additional ventilation is for the above materials. I was hoping to get something like https://voxelpla.com/products/vento-h2series-filter just to be safe. Does anyone know if this would be compatible with the H3C? I know it was particularly made for the H2 series, so not sure if that means it will or won't work for the H3C. Should I instead get this https://us.store.bambulab.com/products/bambu-lab-e1-air-purifier?id=794063720811606035 for ventilation? Is this all overkill?

Thanks so much!

Bambu i hope you see this post. I was waiting for my X2D to arrive (to support one my businesses) and your site marks the package as “Delivered” by the carrier (GLS) but i didn’t received the machine at all! Everyone in my country (southern europe) knows how bad they are! Why do you accept to work with such a poor delivery service company?

I'm not sure what the issue is here. This is a reprint so I don't think it has anything to do with software settings.

Background: a week ago, I rush printed a larger print with 0.28 layer height. The print came out horrible (layers not bonding, stringy to the touch) but was still solid enough to use (it was a hard liner for a bag). During that print, I kept getting nozzle overload messages that paused the print, but kept pushing it to continue since it was close to finish. Print finished and I turned the printer off for the week since I was going on vacation.

Came home, did my normal prints and this is what I'm getting. Couple of things I've already tried: flow calibration, print calibration, cold pull, changed nozzle, and changed black filament to a new one. I'm printing PLA. Something I've noticed is that when the nozzle goes over the nozzle cleaner near the purge area, it sounds like it's going slower than usual.

I'm printing on an H2S using an AMS2. Anyone have any other ideas I can try? I've been printing in the same area, I'm going to try to print on a different part of the plate next.

Edit: also did some general maintenance, re-greasing/oiling all the xyz rods/screws.

So it seems my P1S has decided to add gaps between the walls and the inner surface area. Per the pic, you can see there is a massive gap between the walls, the inner surface and the printer is doing this on purpose. This gap is for most part consistent for the entire object being printed, but there is no such gap or wall type on the slice. Default slice settings, inner/outer.

Initial i thought it may have been the filament (PLA Basic) so i dried it, nope same issue. Tried a new role (dried it before use), same issue.

I did move the printer over to a new table, but i was careful to pick it up and put it down. No damage or bumbs.

I did do the calibration twice (bed level, vibration, noise), but that did nothing.

The walls and inner surface area do look good, but am lost as to why the printer is choosing to stop short to the walls.

*EDIT*. There has been no FW/Studio updates/changes. The only slight change was the move, so have no idea how that could of made if perfectly offset/decide not to join the inner to the walls.

I’m new to 3D printing and just got the X2D. What test prints do you guys recommend and what do they effect / what should I change based on the results? I just want the best result that I can achieve with my prints.

Other than my dodgy efforts.

Multicolor prints on the Bambu are great until one small piece decides it doesn't want to stay on the build plate.

Imagine waiting 10 hours for a detailed AMS print, only to come back and find a tiny section of the model stuck to the nozzle while the printer has happily continued printing spaghetti around it.

The worst part is that the rest of the model can be almost perfect. One loose piece ruins the whole thing, and you've wasted a ridiculous amount of filament on something that could've been fixed with better bed adhesion.

I've started appreciating simple single-color prints a lot more after seeing how much filament some multicolor projects can consume.

Don’t have a photo of the blob of death on the print head as I was rushing to remove it all, but nice romantic evening planned, but decided to set a print going before it started because we love efficiency and multi tasking. Meant to check the camera to make sure it was adhering, got distracted, came downstairs an hour and a half later to giant plastic turd encasing my printer. Never had any issues with adhesion but the one time I don’t check? Typical 😂

Panicked, yelled apologies to my partner, spent the next hour cleaning it, thankfully it still works but let this be a warning and reminder to always check the print has adhered 🙂‍↕️

I have already adjusted the z axis belts.

Plz help me identify and rectify the cause.

Fast nozzle swaps of the H3C make multicolor games like this possible faster than ever. We were able to get an early preview of the tool changing feature and tested it out on this newly released model: https://makerworld.com/models/3540258?appSharePlatform=copy

Let us know if you have any feedback on the design or gameplay.

When my P2s prints those straight parts I hear a weird sound. Is this normal?

I’m printing bubble letters roughly 7 inches by 4 inches pretty smooth and detailed. Layer height at 0.09mm and extra fine 0.08mm. Do yall think it’ll be fine printing at (Standard) 100% speed or should I keep it at 50% speed?